tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65498554377759790322024-03-18T02:47:49.107-07:00LEGENDARY SURFERSDetailed Writings on Surfing's History and Culture -- Part of the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center CollectionMalcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.comBlogger81125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-38471896318248681172023-03-23T02:17:00.000-07:002023-03-23T02:17:00.656-07:001800's Missionaries to Hawaii<p> Another look at Christian missionaries in Hawaii in the 1800's. Appreciations to Peter T. Young:</p><p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpeter.t.young.hawaii%2Fposts%2Fpfbid02XoZEdjhDuRcwuqseXBC4XpwTkM7w1rLjxjRABcoGTvcfJE529wfPLAMVdHz8svtjl&show_text=true&width=500">https://www.facebook.com/plugins/post.php?href=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fpeter.t.young.hawaii%2Fposts%2Fpfbid02XoZEdjhDuRcwuqseXBC4XpwTkM7w1rLjxjRABcoGTvcfJE529wfPLAMVdHz8svtjl&show_text=true&width=500</a></p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-36026613399428755062023-01-04T23:56:00.001-08:002023-01-04T23:56:37.353-08:00Early Africa<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">In putting together this look at Africa’s surfing roots, I am indebted to Australian surf historian Geoff Cater as well as Dr. Ben Finney and James Houston whose works on the subject I have liberally quoted from here. All quotes without footnotes are cited by Cater and their sources listed at the end of this chapter.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGjHEbRaImutRsiDpJS_gMCOoSnugiGSmV58axq1NBc9QJwBafXXUUqlNx-VgiGYUuDZ2Jb32tw92K_FIsB515bej7BSWWt1MpUrbNRVaymlNbptPQMyNzM_EZL3bvTP2p3t0YjPftmnVXvhkIJUe12fqQGHjoOJhM4EHasSXEKSreuYQiPDsYpsY-Q/s1600/Elevation-Africa.webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1030" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGjHEbRaImutRsiDpJS_gMCOoSnugiGSmV58axq1NBc9QJwBafXXUUqlNx-VgiGYUuDZ2Jb32tw92K_FIsB515bej7BSWWt1MpUrbNRVaymlNbptPQMyNzM_EZL3bvTP2p3t0YjPftmnVXvhkIJUe12fqQGHjoOJhM4EHasSXEKSreuYQiPDsYpsY-Q/s320/Elevation-Africa.webp" width="320" /></a></span></div><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-f8cab3b2-7fff-77d0-f3a8-c5d4ee593219"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As I wrote in my short opinion piece “</span><a href="https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/02/surfings-origins.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing’s Origins</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">” that begins the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection, “if we include bodysurfing, the first beaches surfed must have been those along the African Coast -- specifically those with long sandy shelfs that facilitate standing and jumping into waves about to break without going over one's head.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The first body surfing surfers were probably homo sapiens, but also could have been our hominid ancestors. I feel, however, that surfing probably did not happen as an activity until after humans achieved cognition (the mental action or process of acquiring knowledge and understanding through experiences and the senses), currently estimated at about 70,000 years ago.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“If we don't count bodysurfing in our subject of the First Surfers, and specify having to ride some object used for buoyancy -- say a log or even a small fishing canoe -- the coast of Africa is still the most logical location and the First Surfers post cognitive homo sapiens, tens of thousands of years ago.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Of course, that was well before we humans began documenting our activity, out of the water and in. Leaving behind records of ourselves – in whatever form – came much, much later.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In Africa, it came later than most everywhere else on the planet. The earliest accounts of surfing off the African coast were not made until the arrival of Europeans off the midwestern African coast in the 1600’s A.D. From then on through the 1800’s, African aquatic activity was written down by foreigners who, significantly, did not remark on any particular surfing culture or development compared to what had been noticed in the Hawaiian Islands.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In one of the earliest European reports from West Africa, Johann von </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1600_Lubelfing_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lubelfing</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1600) related how, when absconding with stolen goods from his ship, two Africans were able to "swim below the water like a fish" to escape.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dutchman, Pieter </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1602_deMarees_Guinea.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">de Marees</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1602) described the fishermen of Guinea as excellent swimmers, "easily outdoing people of our nation in swimming and diving." He observed that the young "girls as well as boys," swim daily, and that some women were equal to men in swimming, but not in diving.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On the Quaqua coast, Samuel: </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1620_Brun_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Brun </span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(1620) noted that the local inhabitants used "a little raft of three or four pieces of wood” on which "they travel from the land out to sea, where there are such big waves that it is remarkable how these people can come through them."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Michael: </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1645_Hemmersam_Gold_Coast_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hemmersam </span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(1645) recounted an occasion when, after the canoes of two visiting “Moors” drifted away, the skipper threw them "a board (on which) they laid and swam ashore with it." He recalled: "We were all quite amazed at this great feat of daring."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In a chapter on child rearing, Hemmersam records that the mothers "tie the children (when 2-3 years of age) to boards and throw them into the water, and so they learn to swim."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At Cape Corso, Wilhelm Johann </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1669_Muller_Fetu_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Muller</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1669) noted that children were taught to swim at an early age and observed "an enormous crowd, in their daily ritual of bathing in the harbour, accompanied with considerable youthful mischief."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Jean </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1712_Barbot_Guinea.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Barbot</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1712) wrote: "the young have no other occupation than to play in the sea, thousands playing on the large waves of the surf on the coast, carried on little boards, until the sea casts them ashore on the sand of its beaches." He also noted that swimmers also used "small bundles of rushes, fasten'd under their stomachs."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surf skills of the canoemen of the Gold Coast were praised by Henry </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1812_Meredith_Gold_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Meredith</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1812): When returning to the beach, men position "the canoe on the summit of the sea," and keeping. "as straight a course as possible ... conduct (it) on shore with surprising velocity."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For European, this standard method of landing was a met with a thrill and some apprehension, and was later recorded by, among others, Paul B Du </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1867_Du_Chaillu_Ashango_Land_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Chaillu </span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(1867), Hugh </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1876_Dyer_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dyer</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1876), John </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1877_Whitford_Trading_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Whitford</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1877), and illustrated in London's </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1891_The_Graphic_Surfboats_Accra.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Graphic</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1891) and several French publications.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In his account of African surfriding, John </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1823_Adams_Cape_Palmas_Congo.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Adams </span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(1823) writes of Fantee children amusing themselves in the ocean:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On "pieces of broken canoes, which they launch, and paddle outside of the surf, when, watching a proper opportunity, they place their frail barks (boards) on the tops of high waves, which, in their progress to the shore, carry them along with great velocity."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As Australian surf historian Geoff Cater explained, “Broken canoes, most likely splitting longitudinally with the grain and with the timber already finished, would have been readily recycled, and one possible option was as a surfboard.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">John Adams noted the skill of the men using canoes: "the principal art of these young canoe men consists in preserving their seats while thus hurried along, and which they can only do by steering the planks with such precision, as to prevent them broaching to; for when that occurs, they are washed off, and have to swim to regain them."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The children, "not more than six or seven years of age," swim expertly, and surfriding is a community event, the best rides receiving the plaudits of the spectators, who are assembled on the beach to witness their dexterity."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After arriving by native canoe through "two or three lines of heavy rollers" at Accra in modern day Ghana, James </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1837_Alexander_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Alexander</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1835), like Adams, also observed juvenile surfboard riding. In a brief account he wrote of "boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf (wave); and then came rolling in like a cloud on the top of it."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In a later conversation, he was told that the local surfriders were occasionally threatened by sharks.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Indeed, as in oceans the world over, sharks were an occasional hazard. Thomas J. </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1861_Hutchinson_Senegal_Gaboon.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hutchinson</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1861) was told that, shortly before he arrived in Batanga (Cameroon), a fisherman died after losing a leg to "a prowling shark."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hutchinson made special note of local fisherman in a group of four or six riders in small light-weight one-man canoes riding in an area of large surf merely for the fun of it. He described the paddle-out, take-off, steering with a trailing paddle at speed, and the inconvenience of the wipe-out, somewhat mitigated by their being "capital swimmers – indeed, like the majority of the coastal negroes, they may be reckoned amphibious."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kevin </span><a href="http://history.unlv.edu/faculty/dawson/Swimming%20&%20Surfing%20in%20Africa%20copy.pdf" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dawso</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">n, in </span><a href="http://history.unlv.edu/faculty/dawson/Swimming%20&%20Surfing%20in%20Africa%20copy.pdf" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Swimming, Surfing, and Underwater Diving in Early Modern Africa and the African Diaspora</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (2009), wrote that this is "the only (account from West Africa) that describes adults surfing (recreationally)."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As Cater noted, “While there are numerous accounts of (adult) West Africans riding waves in canoes, in those instances they were invariably in pursuit of their livelihood, either in transporting freight or passengers, or in returning from fishing.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While employed to lay undersea cables </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On a Surf-bound Coast</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Archer P. </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1887_Crouch_Surf_Bound_Coast.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Crouch</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1887) had many experiences in landing and launching surf-boats and canoes that he wrote about. However, it is his rare account of swimming in considerable sized surf and taking instruction in the art of body surfing from his African assistant, Su, that stands out.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Another exceptional glimpse into African aquatic life was given by Alfred Burton Ellis:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 12pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In his ethnographic study of the Tshi-speaking peoples of the Gold Coast, Alfred Burdon </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1887_Ellis_Tshi_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ellis</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1887) wrote that "every portion of the shore where the surf breaks unusually heavily, or rocks cause the water to become broken, and ... dangerous for canoes, has its local spirit."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Apparently, stand-up surfing on wooden boards remained in a primitive state. It was not until the 1960’s that riding for fun on boards we would legitimately call “surfboards” became common along parts of the West African coast. Bodysurfing and bodyboarding, of course, continued as the most popular and numerous forms of African wave riding.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As Finney and Houston wrote in their landmark book on surfing, published in the 1960’s, “in areas of Senegal, the Ivory Coast and Ghana... African youths and young fishermen regularly body-surf, ride body-boards and catch waves while standing erect on boards about six feet long. These Atlantic skills seem in no way connected with the Pacific, either historically or prehistorically. Evidently, it’s an old pastime in West Africa; young Africans were seen riding waves while lying prone on light wooden planks as long ago as 1838, long before surfing began to spread from Hawai’i [to the rest of the world].”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This was a reference to the British explorer Sir James Edward Alexander observing surfing by natives in Equatorial West Africa in 1835. Volumes one and two of Alexander’s </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Narrative of a Voyage of Observation Among the Colonies of Western Africa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1837, are remarkable in their scope and detail. The often poetic accounts of every detail of West African life in the early 1800s – sex, murder, slavery, war, passion, drunkenness, death, revolt and a note on surfing – are impressive.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">James Edward Alexander was anchored off the island of Accra, off the Cape Coast not too far from the “yellow sands” of what used to be called Guinea. On November 16, 1835, while describing native island life, Alexander noted that, “from the beach, meanwhile, might be seen boys swimming into the sea, with light boards under their stomachs. They waited for a surf; and then came rolling in like a cloud on the top of it. But I was told that sharks occasionally dart in behind the rocks, and ‘yam’ them.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Following publication of several articles in academic journals on surfboard riding in Oceania, Ben </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1962_Finney_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Finney</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> examined accounts of surfing on the coast of West Africa (1962). Initially noting </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1949_Rouch_Senegal.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rouch</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1949) and Beart (1955), he raised the question of whether surfboard riding developed as an "independent invention" in both locations, or by "invention in one and then diffusion to the other."</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Finney considered and rejected the possibility of a recent diffusion from Hawaii, citing the early nineteenth century report by James </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1837_Alexander_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Alexander</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1835); and, noting the surfboard-like craft of Lake Bosumtwi identified by </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1923_Rattray_padua_Lake_Bostumtwi_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rattray</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (1923), concluding that surfboarding in West Africa and Oceania evolved independently.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Finney’s conclusion is consistent with what we know of the dispersal of Humankind over the planet and what Europeans found off the coast of Western Africa tens of thousands of years later. While it is logical that bodysurfing and bodyboarding began off the coasts of Africa, standing on wooden boards and riding waves along the African Coast is probably no more than a century old.</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><hr /><p></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Geoff Cater References</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1600 von Lubelfing : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1600_Lubelfing_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Swimming and Canoes, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1602 de Marees : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1602_deMarees_Guinea.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Swimming, Canoes and Fishing, Guinea.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1604 Ulsheimer : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1604_Ulsheimer_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoes and Whaling, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1620 Samuel Brun : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1620_Brun_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoes, Rafts, and Fishing, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1645 Hemmersam : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1645_Hemmersam_Gold_Coast_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Float Boards and Canoes, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1669 Muller : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1669_Muller_Fetu_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Swimming, Canoes and Fishing, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1712 Jean Barbot : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1712_Barbot_Guinea.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoes and Fishing, Guinea.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1735 John Atkins : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1735_Atkins_Guinea_Brazil_West_Indies.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoes and Fishing, Guinea and Brazil.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1812 Henry Meredith : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1812_Meredith_Gold_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoe Surfing on Gold Coast, Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1823 John Adams : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1823_Adams_Cape_Palmas_Congo.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboard Riding on the West Coast, Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1835 James Edward Alexander : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1837_Alexander_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1861 Thomas J. Hutchinson : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1861_Hutchinson_Senegal_Gaboon.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoe Surfing in Gabon, Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1874 W.H.G. Kingston: </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1874_Kingston_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Great African Travellers.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1876 Hugh Dyer : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1876_Dyer_West_Coast_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf Boats in West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1877 John Whitford : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1877_Whitford_Trading_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf Canoes and Boats, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1881 David Greig Rutherford : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1881_Rutherford_Batanga_Canoes_W_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Batanga Canoes, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1887 Archer Crouch :</span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1887_Crouch_Surf_Bound_Coast.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Body Surfing, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1887 Alfred Burton Ellis : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1887_Ellis_Tshi_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf Dieties of West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1891 The Graphic : Surf Boats, Ghana.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1895 C. S. Smith : Batanga Canoes, West Africa.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1899 Mary H. Kingsley : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1899_Kingsley_West_Africa_Studies.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Canoes and Fishing, West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1921 Lord Hamilton : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1921_Hamilton_Muizenberg_SA.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfriding at Muizenberg, South Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1922 Agatha Christie : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1922_Christie_Muizenberg_Waikiki.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Torquay, Muizenberg, and Waikiki.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1923 Robert Rattray : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1923_Rattray_padua_Lake_Bostumtwi_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Padua at Lake Bosumtwi, Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1932 George Bernard Shaw : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1932_GB_Shaw_Muizenberg.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">First Surfboard, Muizenberg, SA.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1949 Jean Rouch : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1949_Rouch_Senegal.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf Riding at Dakar, Senegal.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1955 C.Beart : </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Jeux et Jouets de l'Ouest Africain</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Memoires de l'Institut Francais d' Afrique, Noire No. 42, Dakar, pages 330-331.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1962 Ben Finney : </span><a href="https://www.surfresearch.com.au/1962_Finney_West_Africa.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboarding in West Africa.</span></a></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2009 Kevin Dawson : </span><a href="http://history.unlv.edu/faculty/dawson/Swimming%20&%20Surfing%20in%20Africa%20copy.pdf" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Swimming, Surfing, and Underwater Diving in Early Modern Africa and the African Diaspora.</span></a></p><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-56659635950010640732022-11-19T02:38:00.001-08:002022-11-19T02:38:56.584-08:00Earliest Peruvian Surfing<p><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Peru has a rich surfing history, although little is known about its earliest days. Those days of riding bundled reeds perhaps even took place before Austronesian surfing on flat wooden boards began. Certainly, the archeological record shows it preceded the Polynesians.</span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-cbb12a86-7fff-c0b6-15a0-f4e2064c1523"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="624" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-luDBobhtLLRVBhOZAHj3bnTWIGe1kqxIDIu4rRFcV7xGCDi65saGu7sEz_Q6R_ziyR9-CggVL4pxq6gG4vLQxE5_8XzVSzUSxRD1yOFjcbbjJHiCDzQInHsxK0szI96ffJSMHBqist3Crnaf9i-uCPl9_Tf8Q5D3sTdSxKc9hQ0C2RhCTv_OcRFqdODyg" style="font-size: 18.6667px; margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center; text-indent: 48px;" width="451" /></span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Off the west coast of South America, Pacific ground swells hit the beaches from Panama to Patagonia, producing some of the planet’s best surf. Peru, South America’s third-largest country, has a long surfing history to go with its 1,500 miles of mostly dry and rugged Pacific-facing coastline.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The surf in Peru is remarkably consistent,” wrote Matt Warshaw in the </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Encyclopedia of Surfing,</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> “with wave height averaging between three to six foot throughout the year, thanks to long-distance north swells during the summer, a steady feed of powerful south swells in winter, and a balance of the two during spring and fall. About 80 percent of Peru’s surf spots are lefts, most of them breaking along rocky points spilling onto sandy beaches. Daytime coastal air temperatures generally range between the low 70s in summer and the low 60s in winter; water temperatures around the capital city of Lima, chilled by the Humboldt current, range from the upper 60s to the mid-50s.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing in Peru is centered in Lima – home to one-fifth of the country’s total population. “Peru’s wave-rich northern tip faces northwest (the rest of the coast faces southwest), warmed by the Panama Current, is home to an assortment of points and reefs, including the high-acceleration tubes at Cabo Blanco, Chicama – the arid left-breaking point known as the longest ocean wave in the world, with rides sometimes lasting more than a mile – is located about 200 miles south of Punta Negra, and is flanked by at least four other high-quality breaks. Lima’s Pico Alto is the country’s premier big-wave spot, with well-shaped rights and lefts (rights preferred) breaking up to 25 feet. The country’s southern coast is lightly populated, hard to access, and rarely surfed. The number and quality of surf breaks, however, is thought to be nearly equal to that found in the north.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In addition to this surf wealth, the ancient land now known as Peru has the oldest documented tradition of wave riding.</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In relatively recent years, Peruvian world champion surfer Felipe Pomar has lead the charge for greater recognition of Peru’s wave riding heritage. Taking it a step further, Felipe has joined with a few surfing and non-surfing historians to argue that surfing as a sport </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">originated</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> in what is now called Peru. They point to the fact that pre-Inca fishermen were riding surf as far back as 3,000 B.C., riding waves on what Spanish conquistadors called </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(little horses) made of bundled reeds. This puts the Peruvians about a thousand years before the earliest estimates for surf riding in Hawaii.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The conventional history of surfing, of course, has surfing originating as a very basic type of wave riding originating in the western Pacific Ocean. Under this scenario, the first surfers were Polynesian or Polynesian ancestors, Austronesians. It has been estimated that Polynesian surfing began sometime between 2000 B.C. and 400 A.D.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">University of Hawaii anthropology professor and early surf historian Ben Finney acknowledged that surfing as we know it, probably preceded the Polynesians. In his </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboarding in Oceania: Its Pre-European Distribution</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Finney wrote that an “extensive examination of the available sources has shown that surfboarding was known in Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia. In fact, surfboarding was practiced in Oceania from New Guinea in the West, to Easter Island in the East, and from Hawaii in the North to New Zealand in the South.” Finney cited sightings of various forms of primitive surfing in places as diverse as Owa Raha in the Solomon Islands (observed in 1949); to Yap in the Western Carolines (observed by a colleague); and south in the New Hebrides and Fiji. “With reservations,” Finney concluded, this “wide distribution would seem to indicate that surfboarding is a general Oceanic sport, rather than a specifically Polynesian sport.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Decades after writing the foregoing, however, Finney clarified that – lest one be easily tempted to look elsewhere than Polynesia for surfing’s earliest roots – “Indigenous board-surfing in the Pacific was most highly developed on islands within the Polynesian Triangle bounded by Hawaii, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and Aotearoa (New Zealand). Early reports of surfing along the shores of islands from New Guinea to Polynesia indicate that this sport, at least in its rudimentary form, was part of the common heritage of the seafaring people who spread across the Pacific thousands of years ago.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So, if Polynesian surfing began before people reached the Hawaiian Islands, it is certainly older than 3,000 years ago. The fact is, we just don’t know how old surfing in eastern Polynesia is, let alone how old it is in western Polynesia. Could pre-Polynesians have surfed? It’s most certainly probable, even if it was merely bodysurfing, bodyboarding or canoe surfing.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In fact, anywhere on the planet that has surf, a moderate or temperate climate, and coastal populations of humans engaged in fishing, there must have been surfers – if only riding surf in canoes as part of work or recreationally. Also, the tendency of young peope to get into the ocean and bodysurf is a universal act. Many historians wishing to blaze new ground often forget this most obvious aspect of coastal living in all ages and all temperate coasts.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I have written about this and postulate that surfing is not only far older than we think, but has been practiced worldwide for tens of thousands of years – certainly as far back as cognitive homo sapiens emerged in Africa.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We are fortunate that the coastal Peruvians, very early on, developed ceramic art to a high degree early in their history because they left an actual record of their surfing behind. In the museum of the Peruvian city of Chan Chan, there is pottery showing Huanchaco people “running waves” on reed rafts we now call </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos de totora </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">(little horses of the totora reed). These reed mats were and still are used primarily for fishing, but the pottery also indicates they were also used for fun; to ride the breaking waves of the northwest coast of Peru.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 9.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Dating of the ceramic artifacts prove</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> that wave riding on reed boats existed in that country as early as 3000 to 4000 B.C., long before the Spanish invasion in the 16</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 0.6em; vertical-align: super;">th</span></span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Century and well before the founding of the the Incan Empire in the 13</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 0.6em; vertical-align: super;">th</span></span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Century.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The two ancient pre-Inca cultures, Mochica and Chimu, developed in the north of Peru more than two thousand years ago. These were the first Peruvian societies to relate actively with powerful coastal tidal zones, through fishing and transport. The people of these societies left us many examples of designs featuring waves in their religious iconography and their art expressed on textiles, frescos and ceramics.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first Peruvians to ride waves were no doubt fishermen who had to traverse often powerful ocean waves in order to get food. Peruvians are still using the reed craft their ancestors used thousands of years ago, now in modern times. It is possible to watch them in Trujillo; Huanchaco Beach is famous for this reason.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 9.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Our attention to this early Peruvian surfing history has been in large part due to legendary surfer Felipe Pomar.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In 1987,” surf writer Matt Warshaw wrote, “[Felipe] Pomar began a one-man crusade to have the fishermen of ancient Chan Chan, a pre-Inca empire located in what is now Peru’s northern territory, recognized as the original surfers. Chan Chan fishermen from as far back as 3,000 B.C., Pomar said, used reed-built </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (‘little horses’) to ride waves… ‘While there is much room for speculation,’ Pomar said in a surf magazine article, ‘there seems to be a distinct possibility that the embryonic form of modern-day surfing was born off the coast of northern Peru.’”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In Northern Peru,” Felipe told me, “there is pottery that shows people paddling on a surfboard-like one-man boat, paddling with their arms... They're called </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos de totora</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. ‘</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">’ means ‘little horses’ and ‘</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">totora</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">’ is a certain kind of reed. The Spanish Conquistadores named the little reed surfboards – or the reed kayaks; they're somewhere between a surfboard and a kayak – they named them ‘caballitos’ because when they witnessed them riding waves on one of these </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, they were used to riding horses and they saw them riding in with the surf, so they called them ‘little horses.’”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: none; display: inline-block; height: 439px; overflow: hidden; width: 468px;"><img height="439" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Sto9-0MGgUwLOnsZ0yMQapyLimVJXz5Qj-M-KrA-13PBUa27CpFNVzWAxFtZC2k9rpSdrSiTaQF1R_Op00rN0HQYi6i22fZ4ehYPerMpVTiohsT5otS1ZTj0oLdtQF3fg0_GmF19zU29tnV6vSZUabwM2OomFd0uqUepqV56bbFN3pn8JJOHjd5loUTegQ" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="468" /></span></span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 6pt; margin-right: 6.5pt; margin-top: 8pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 15.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thor Heyerdahl (1914-2002)</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Could pre-Peruvians have been influenced by pre-Polynesians or Polynesians? Thor Heyerdahl (October 6, 1914, Larvik, Norway – April 18, 2002, Colla Micheri, Italy), the Norwegian ethnographer and adventurer with a scientific background in zoology and geography definitely believed the two peoples had made isolated contacts with each other over the thousands of years preceding the Modern Era. Heyerdahl became notable for his Kon-Tiki expedition of the late 1940s, when he sailed 4,300 miles (8,000 km) by raft from South America to the Tuamotu Islands.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki Expedition is important in the discussion of Polynesian dispersion across the Pacific, although its premisis runs counter to prevailing theory. Heyerdahl and five fellow adventurers went to Peru, where they constructed a </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pae-pae</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> raft from balsa wood and other native materials, a raft that they called the Kon-Tiki. The Kon-Tiki expedition was inspired by old reports and drawings made by the Spanish Conquistadors of Inca rafts, and by native legends and archaeological evidence suggesting contact between South America and Polynesia. After a 101 day, 4,300 mile (8,000 km) journey across the Pacific Ocean, Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki smashed into the reef at Raroia in the Tuamotu Islands on August 7, 1947.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon-Tiki demonstrated that it was possible for a primitive raft to sail the Pacific with relative ease and safety, especially to the west (with the wind). The raft proved to be highly maneuverable, and fish congregated between the two balsa logs in such numbers that ancient sailors could have possibly relied on fish for hydration in the absence of other sources of fresh water. Inspired by Kon-Tiki, other rafts have repeated the voyage. Heyerdahl's book about the expedition, </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon-Tiki</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, has been translated into over 50 languages. The documentary film of the expedition, itself entitled </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon-Tiki</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, won an Academy Award in 1951.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Anthropologists continue to believe,” Wikipedia’s history of the expedition states, “based on linguistic, physical, and genetic evidence, that Polynesia was settled from west to east, migration having begun from the Asian mainland. There are controversial indications, though, of some sort of South American/Polynesian contact, most notably in the fact that the South American sweet potato served as a dietary staple throughout much of Polynesia.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Heyerdahl noted that in Incan legend there was a sun-god named Con-Tici Viracocha who was the supreme head of the mythical fair-skinned people in Peru. The original name for Virakocha was Kon-Tiki or Illa-Tiki, which means Sun-Tiki or Fire-Tiki. Kon-Tiki was high priest and sun-king of these legendary ‘white men’ who left enormous ruins on the shores of Lake Titicaca. The legend continues with the mysterious bearded white men being attacked by a chief named Cari who came from the Coquimbo Valley. They had a battle on an island in Lake Titicaca, and the fair race was massacred. However, Kon-Tiki and his closest companions managed to escape and later arrived on the Pacific coast.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“When the Spaniards came to Peru, Heyerdahl asserted, the Incas told them that the colossal monuments that stood deserted about the landscape were erected by a race of white gods who had lived there before the Incas themselves became rulers. The Incas described these ‘white gods’ as wise, peaceful instructors who had originally come from the north in the ‘morning of time’ and taught the Incas’ primitive forefathers architecture as well as manners and customs. They were unlike other Native Americans in that they had ‘white skins and long beards’ and were taller than the Incas. The Incas said that the ‘white gods’ had then left as suddenly as they had come and fled westward across the Pacific. After they had left, the Incas themselves took over power in the country.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Heyerdahl said that when the Europeans first came to the Pacific islands, they were astonished that they found some of the natives to have relatively light skins and beards. There were whole families that had pale skin, hair varying in color from reddish to blonde. In contrast, most of the Polynesians had golden-brown skin, raven-black hair, and rather flat noses. Heyerdahl claimed that when Jakob Roggeveen first ‘discovered’ Easter Island in 1722, he supposedly noticed that many of the natives were white-skinned. Heyerdahl claimed that these people could count their ancestors who were ‘white-skinned’ right back to the time of Tiki and Hotu Matua, when they first came sailing across the sea ‘from a mountainous land in the east which was scorched by the sun.’ The ethnographic evidence for these claims is outlined in Heyerdahl’s book </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aku Aku: The Secret of Easter Island</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Heyerdahl proposed that Tiki’s neolithic people colonized the then-uninhabited Polynesian islands as far north as Hawaii, as far south as New Zealand, as far east as Easter Island, and as far west as Samoa and Tonga around 500 CE. They supposedly sailed from Peru to the Polynesian islands on </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pae-paes</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – large rafts built from balsa logs, complete with sails and each with a small cottage. They built enormous stone statues carved in the image of human beings on Pitcairn, the Marquesas, and Easter Island that resembled those in Peru. They also built huge pyramids on Tahiti and Samoa with steps like those in Peru. But all over Polynesia, Heyerdahl found indications that Tiki’s peaceable race had not been able to hold the islands alone for long. He found evidence that suggested that seagoing war canoes as large as Viking ships and lashed together two and two had brought Stone Age Northwest American Indians to Polynesia around 1100 CE, and they mingled with Tiki’s people. The oral history of the people of Easter Island, at least as it was documented by Heyerdahl, is completely consistent with this theory, as is the archaeological record he examined (Heyerdahl 1958). In particular, Heyerdahl obtained a radiocarbon date of 400 CE for a charcoal fire located in the pit that was held by the people of Easter Island to have been used as an ‘oven’ by the ‘Long Ears,’ which Heyerdahl's Rapa Nui sources, reciting oral tradition, identified as a white race which had ruled the island in the past (Heyerdahl 1958).”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Heyerdahl further argued in his book </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">American Indians in the Pacific</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> that the current inhabitants of Polynesia migrated not from an Asian source, but via an alternate route. He proposed that Polynesians traveled with the wind along the North Pacific current. These migrants then arrived in British Columbia. Heyerdahl called contemporary tribes of British Columbia, such as the Tlingit and Haida, descendants of these migrants. Heyerdahl claimed that cultural and physical similarities existed between these British Columbian tribes, Polynesians, and the Old World source. Heyerdahl’s claims aside, however, there is no evidence that the Tlingit, Haida or other British Columbian tribes have an affinity with Polynesians.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Furthermore, as intriguing as Heyerdahls’ theory of Polynesian origins is, it has never gained acceptance by anthropologists.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Physical and cultural evidence has long suggested that Polynesia was settled from west to east, migration having begun from the Asian mainland, not South America. In the late 1990s, genetic testing found that the mitochondrial DNA of the Polynesians is more similar to people from Southeast Asia than to people from South America, showing that their ancestors most likely came from Asia.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Easter Islanders are of Polynesian descent.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Further DNA studies conducted in the late 1990s and early 2000s indicate that Polynesian ancestry is placed at Taiwan.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Yet, the issue of the South American sweet potato remains a mystery. In recent times (2022), DNA samples of a human skeleton in the Amazon points to Polynesian ancestry.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Glenn Hening, Surfrider Foundation founder and president of the Groundswell Society, agrees that Peruvians could have been the first of what we might term “surfers.” Hening travelled to Peru to experience </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">las caballitos de totora </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">first-hand. Although he thinks Peruvians might have been the “first surfers,” he is not willing to go as far as Felipe Pomar. In a personal email to Pomar, in 2009, Hening pointed out that “Your theory about surfing craft being developed first, and from them then fishing craft, simply cannot be supported by the evidence. The evidence is that reed craft were being used up to 3,500 years ago to provide food for the large populations at Caral, Chan Chan, Tucume, etc. Your evidence of personal craft is only 1200 years old – and consists of the two ceramics at the Breuning Museum.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“… my contention,” Felipe responded, “is not that they were first built to have fun and then improved for fishing. My contention is that more important than having fun, or even fishing, was surviving.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The design tells me they were designed to ride waves. The reason riding the wave was so important is because to make it safely to the beach from outside (the ocean side of the breaking waves) you had to avoid getting caught by a set of breakers.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“If you got caught you could drown, or lose your fish (if you had been fishing).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Riding the wave enabled the Caballito rider to rapidly ride a wave in and avoid getting smashed and upended/capsized by the waves. Riding a wave kept him out of harms way. Thus the Caballitos were designed to ride waves and used for fishing (by the fishermen), recreation (by the sons of the fishermen), and sport (by warriors, priests, chiefs, or others with free time seeking fitness, sport, or power).”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to Thor Heyerdahl: “Knowing the people on the coast today, this would be the first place where surfing could have developed. 5,000 years ago, they were mentally and physically exactly like us. They would do precisely as you and I do. If we have time for leisure – and in those days the royalty on the coast had all the leisure time they could ask for – there’d be nothing more natural than for them to start surfing in these waves.”</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 9.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In areas of constant surf,” Felipe Pomar maintains, “the people had to design a unipersonal boat that could get them through the braking waves (to beyond the breaking waves) and then through the breaking wave zone to get back to shore. Riding the wave was the safest, fastest, and often the only way to get back to shore.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The Caballito is [the pre-Incan]… design for areas with constant surf where you have to ride the wave to get back to shore. Look at the design on the caballito: length, width, scoop, bottom contour. Compare it to older surfboard design’s and Kayak’s made for riding waves. You can’t avoid seeing that the Caballito was designed to ride waves of the sea. And it is extremely sophisticated and functional considering when it was developed and the materials they had to work with.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In my opinion,” continued Felipe, “what Peru has is the kind of ideal coastline for riding waves to develope and whether they were riding them on a reed </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballito</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> or riding them on some other kind of plank or just bodysurfing, the constant surf on the Peruvian coast is, in many places, like Waikiki. You know, you have the rollers coming in from way out and you can catch them and ride for long distance. So, for that reason, it’s perfectly understandable that surfing – riding waves – would develop on that kind of coastline.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“It is important that the Peruvians know our history in regard to Totora Horse,” Felipe Pomar emphasized.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 9.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“There is no doubt that Peruvian societies going back almost 3500 years had used the ‘caballitos’ (Spanish for ‘little horses’) for fishing purposes,” wrote Glenn Hening in “Riding Waves Two Thousand Years Ago,” “and Heyerdahl told us in an interview that those societies would have enjoyed the surf just as we do. Dr. Heyerdahl had also developed theories about ancient Peruvians sailing to Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and had confirmed the existence of stone sculptures found there depicting reed boats. Coupled with research connecting Rapa Nui to the rest of Polynesia through the ‘wayfinding’ voyages, a tenuous link could be made from Peru to Polynesia to Hawai‘i.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 9.5pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hening points to the relationship ancient Peruvians seemed to have with the ocean. “Peruvian cultures had an almost religious relationship with waves,” Glenn wrote, “… It may be very difficult to prove surfing came to Hawai’i from Peru, but with more research in the ruins of temples and cities along the coast of northern Peru, we should eventually find definitive evidence that people were riding waves there at least a thousand years before any evidence exists of surfing in Hawai‘i. Why? Because we already have proof that riding a reed boat, and not using it for fishing, was a concept not unknown to the ancient Peruvians.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“When I say ancient Peruvians, I am talking about societies that existed before the Incas. The ruins at Machu Pichu are famous around the world, and for most people, the Incas represent the history of Peru before the arrival of the Spanish. However, there were well-developed cultures prior to the Incans, and huge cities, temples and pyramids can be found along the coast of Northern Peru that pre-date the Incas by hundreds, and in two cases, thousand of years.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Those societies,” Glenn went on, “notably the Chimu and the Moche, depended largely on the ocean for their protein, and for them the ocean was a mystical place of unlimited power. They repeatedly used waves as a design element in their clothing, jewelry, and architecture. In fact, a ceremonial courtyard found in the Chan Chan ruins, not more than a kilometer from the surf, is ringed by walls covered with parallel lines, the purpose of which was to surround the people participating in the ceremonies with the power of the sea. In this case, waves were used to decorate a ‘church’, and in other societies pre-dating Chan Chan waves were used on the golden crowns of kings and their clothing. And one priesthood used waves as the symbol of their power as they exerted a strong influence over the government and daily lives in cities of up to 50,000 people.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“To me,” Glenn continued, “the veneration of waves by ancient Peruvians is entirely understandable. In fact, surfers everywhere cover their walls with pictures of swells, tubes, and rolling waves. It was breathtaking to visit a temple that was built overlooking a left point break along the coast north of Huanchaco and see waves six feet high carved in an endless chain along a wall still not fully excavated. As a surfer, to touch those waves, even as I could hear the roar of real surf off in the distance, was an important experience for me...”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">For Glenn Hening, his conversion to viewing Peruvians as the first surfers came when he viewed “A ceramic, possibly almost 1200 years old… unearthed in 1938 by a German archaeologist, Franz Wasserman.” This ceramic “depicts a Peruvian god riding the crescent moon across the night sky, and the moon was drawn in the form of a reed boat. To me, that indicates the artist, whoever he or she was, conceived of using a reed craft for something that we could call ‘surfing.’</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Now, other evidence exists of the use of reeds to built small ‘floats’ for going out in the surf to complete ‘rites of passage’ ceremonies, given the strength and courage it takes to challenge the endless lines of surf that hit the coast of Peru. But the god riding his ‘moonship’ was a very exciting step forward in the search for the first surfer.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“As a result, I strongly believe that with more research and archaeological investigations at sites in Northern Peru, there is a good chance of finding conclusive proof that ancient Peruvians were using reed craft not only for fishing, but also recreational purposes. As Dr. Heyerdahl said, ‘People haven’t changed in fundamental ways for thousands of years, and if something is fun for us, it certainly would have been fun for them. And that includes surfing.’”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Speaking personally, Glenn wrote, “As a surfer, my memories of my trips to Peru are filled with visions of endless waves to the horizon, long walls of peeling tubes that I could ride for hundreds of meters, and the roar of surf all day and all night. As a professional historian, I was fascinated by the reed boat ceramics and the use of waves to decorate royal clothes, temples, and artwork found at many archaeological sites...”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“When Hening started researching the coastal cultures of Northern Peru,” wrote Marcus Sanders in “Lines in the Dust – The Groundswell Society Goes to Peru 2002,” published in </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Surfer’s Path,</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> “around the fishing town of Huanchaco (about 500 miles north of Lima), he started questioning the entrenched idea that surfing began in Hawai‘i. He wasn’t the first. Some surfing historians – including Peruvian businessman and cultural historian Fortunato Quesada and Peru’s ex-world champion, Felipe Pomar – assert that the ancient Peruvians took to the waves in their ancient reed craft (called </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, or “little horses”) thousands of years ago. But Hening has been one of the most diligent in researching the possibilities, especially in the last couple of years.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“… In 1994, after getting fairly fed up with Surfrider’s continual shift away from what he saw as its original vision – that is, a ‘Cousteau Society for surfers’ – Hening decided to create the Groundswell Society, which was intended to be a kind of non-corporate surfing think tank…”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Hening’s third question, about the history of the place, can be found in the elaborate architecture, ceramics and drawing of ancient Peruvians on display in the museums and various archaeological sites along the coast. It should come as no surprise that everything had a deep maritime influence, with examples of curling waves, breaking waves, lines to the horizon and peeling pointbreaks. There’s even a 2000-year-old temple located right on a cliff above a Honolua Bay-style left. ‘They didn’t’ build in the middle of the beach,’ Hening points out. ‘They built it right where there were lines bending in and peeling perfectly.’”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Surfing’s direct influence is one thing,” Glenn acknowledged. “Having one’s life defined by the power of the ocean is something a little different. Surfing is a small part of our relationship with the ocean. These cultures needed the ocean to eat, but they also recognized the geometry of waves, and situated their temples not at close-out surf, but at perfect points. They were cognizant of how waves break. And they were cognizant of curling waves, of tubes – you can see it in their architecture; there are ‘Moche’ ceramics dating back to AD 200 that depict a deity riding the crescent moon as if it was a reed boat. Of course, there’s more research to be done – nothing’s been proven. But every year more and more sites are being discovered that give us more information about how people’s lives were informed by waves thousands of years ago.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When asked about how Polynesians and, in particular, Hawaiians felt about the Peru theory as first point for surfing, Felipe Pomar responded, “A few might like, and some not, but… There is no doubt that the art of surfing was born on the coast of Peru. This is because the former </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">caballitos </span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">were running waves in Peru thousands of years before there were settlers in the islands of Hawaii. It is also true that in Hawaii, the art developed rapidly with new materials, and the exceptional conditions of their sea. But the oldest examples of people running waves have them in Peru.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="border: none; display: inline-block; height: 292px; overflow: hidden; width: 295px;"><img height="292" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/UPrzBDGEpDAngx5Worql9vTG2PtUfQiE3pJfdoRZXdW0NG-UM8WZtO6eB1mN8jvouGq3sxC3u_rZDDjFtwfFh-vUbyr2T83bqWij1rHiBgKUZOEhDgPblLIUyIQoVnCReYrjUvUMU79RMjID-DM0G2CHGGuVMUFtQUY_3A1EcF8r20SLIqrSenTTIvcHrg" style="margin-left: 0px; margin-top: 0px;" width="295" /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center; text-indent: 36pt;"><br /></p><div><br /></div></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-87455198577354180902022-11-18T23:08:00.001-08:002022-11-18T23:09:55.913-08:00Old Hawaiian Surfing Legends<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on the legendary Hawaiian surfers from long ago, including Mamala, Kahikilani, Umi and Pikoi.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhGw0-iX_JkrD2hoC8NNwIo4O7XY64WJHpir-A-lu0bN8mY2kdp8mGnpudjIHgxy4BJMcFODOq9s-7gfhNH1-S3v9jyyPx7-103XMO2-P_vQRlB-YIQIBgdOhyK-hzyC11WhSXI-JndUU792qlinjbfJx2_LiLm3_ftb-2ykOhQDDLXeJFJgqPWVfiw/s1269/16687512079688994298694780387070.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="1269" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnhGw0-iX_JkrD2hoC8NNwIo4O7XY64WJHpir-A-lu0bN8mY2kdp8mGnpudjIHgxy4BJMcFODOq9s-7gfhNH1-S3v9jyyPx7-103XMO2-P_vQRlB-YIQIBgdOhyK-hzyC11WhSXI-JndUU792qlinjbfJx2_LiLm3_ftb-2ykOhQDDLXeJFJgqPWVfiw/s320/16687512079688994298694780387070.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Kahikilani turned to stone</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Photographer unknown</div><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-e1b28cbe-7fff-ba94-10ef-509bbf2f5317"><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mamala</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surf rises at Koolau,</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blowing the waves into mist,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Into little drops,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spray falling along the inner harbor.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is my dear husband Ouha,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is the shaking sea, the running sea of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The crablike, moving sea of Kou.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Prepare the awa to drink, the crab to eat.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The small konane board is at Hono-kau-pu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My friend on the highest point of the surf.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is a good surf for us.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My love has gone away.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Smooth is the floor of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fine is the breeze from the mountains...71</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ke-kai-o-Mamala (the Sea of Mamala), the ocean west of Waikiki off the coast of Honolulu, was named after one of Hawaii’s earliest known legendary woman surfers – Mamala.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mamala rode at a time when Hawaiian history was kept orally, so it is virtually impossible to separate the facts from the myths. Both are included here.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The harbor area of Hono-lulu was once known as Kou.72 Kou hosted a number of primo surf spots, including ‘Ula-kua (black red), Ke-kai-o-Mamala (the sea of Mamala), and Awa-lua (double harbor).73</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Look at an island map of O‘ahu and you can still see Ke-kai-o-Mamala, the Sea of Mamala still marked. The surf spot of the same name broke through a narrow entrance to the harbor, straight out from a grove of coconut trees belonging to the chief Honoka‘upu, which bore his name.74 This is in the area now known as Ala Moana, Rock Pile, Inbetweens and Kaisers – contemporary surf spots at the mouth of the harbor channel, just east of Magic Island.75</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ke-kai-o-Mamala broke “straight out from a beautiful coconut grove... [at] Honoka‘upu and provided some of the finest waves in Kou,” wrote Finney and Houston. “The break was named after Mamala, a famous surfer and a pominent O‘ahu chiefess. She was a kupua, a demigod or hero with supernatural powers who could take the form of a beautiful woman, a gigantic lizard, or a great shark.”76</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As a </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mo-o</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – sometimes she could be a gigantic lizard or crocodile; sometimes a beautiful woman.77</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to legend, she was first married to another </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kupua</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, the shark-man Ouha. Mamala and Ouha would often drink awa together and played </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">konane</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (pebble checkers) on the smooth konane stone at Kou.78</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mamala, by all accounts, was an excellent surfer. Skillfully, she rode the roughest waves. She apparently liked to surf far out from shore, in rough seas, when the winds blew strong and whitecaps rolled in disorder into the bay of Kou. The people on the beach, watching her, would clap and yell in recognition to her extraordinary riding.79</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One day, the coconut grove chief Honoka‘upu decided he wanted Mamala as his wife. Apparently, she was amenable and left Ouha to go live with her new husband.80 Feeling loss-of-face, Ouha got angry and first tried the belligerant approach, trying to do Honoka‘upu in. That didn’t work and he was driven away, fleeing to lake Ka-ihi-Kapu, toward Waikiki. There, he appeared as a man with a basketful of shrimp and fresh fish, which he offered to the women of the place, saying, “Here is life (a living thing) for the children.” He opened his basket, but the shrimp and fish leaped out and escaped into the water.81</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After this, the women of Ka-ihi-Kapu made fun of Ouha, further ridiculing the god-man. Ouha, like the other ancient legendary characters of Polynesia and most of the rest of us, could not endure anything that brought shame and disgrace upon him in the eyes of others. Consequently, Ouha cast off his human form forever and became the great shark god of the coast between Waikiki and Koko Head.82</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mamala was remembered ever afterward both by the surf spot named in her honor and also in a song about her triangular love affair called the Mele (song) of Honoka‘upu.”83 Two parts of the song go like this:</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I wait for you to return,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The games are prepared,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pa-poko, pa-loa, pa-lele,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Leap away to Tahiti</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By the path to Nuumehalani,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Will that lover return?</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I belong to Honoka‘upu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the top of the tossing surf waves,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The eyes of the day and the night are forgotten.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kou is the day, and to-night</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The eyes meet at Kou.84</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surf rises at Ko‘olau,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blowing the waves into mist,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Into little drops,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spray falling along the hidden harbor.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is my dear husband Ouha,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is the shaking sea, the running sea of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The crab-like sea of Kou...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My love has gone away...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fine is the breeze from the mountain.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I wait for you to return...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Will the lover return?</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I belong to Honoka‘upu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the top of the tossing surf waves...85</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">--------------------------------------------------------------- </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surf rises at Koolau,</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blowing the waves into mist,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Into little drops,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spray falling along the inner harbor.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is my dear husband Ouha,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is the shaking sea, the running sea of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The crablike, moving sea of Kou.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Prepare the awa to drink, the crab to eat.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The small konane board is at Hono-kau-pu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My friend on the highest point of the surf.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is a good surf for us.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My love has gone away.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Smooth is the floor of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fine is the breeze from the mountains...86</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kahikilani</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Forty miles from Ke-kai-o-Mamala, on the North Shore, Paumalu was known for its big waves, just as it is known, today, by the different name of “Sunset Beach.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the long ago, it was called Paumalu, meaning “taken secretly,” referring to how a woman who caught more octopus than was permitted had her legs bitten off by a shark.87</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In this most famous surfing legend of Paumalu, a prince of Kaua‘i named Kahikilani crossed the hundred miles of open sea between his home and O‘ahu just to prove his prowess at Paumalu.88</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“As soon as he arrived he started surfing,” wrote Finney and Houston in a re-telling of the ancient mele. “Day after day he perfected his skill in the jawlike waves. As he rode he was watched by a bird maiden with supernatural powers who lived in a cave on a nearby mountain. She fell in love with the prince and sent bird messengers to place an orange lehua lei around his neck and bring him to her.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“By flying around his head, the messengers guided Kahikilani to the bird maiden’s cave. Enchanted, he spent several months with her until the return of the surfing season. Then the distant sizzle and boom of the waves at Paumalu were too much for Kahikilani to resist, and he left the maiden, but only after promising never to kiss another woman.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“However, the excitement of the rising surf must have clouded his memory because almost as soon as he was riding again, a beautiful woman came walking along the white sand. She saw him there, waited until he rode to shore, placed an ilima lei around his neck, and kissed him. His vow was broken. He thought nothing of it and paddled back out to the breaking waves, but the bird messengers were watching. They flew to tell their mistress of his infidelity. When she heard their report, the bird maiden ran to the beach with a lehua lei in her hand. Snatching the ilima lei from Kahikilani’s neck, she replaced it with the one made from lehua blossoms. As she ran back to her cave, he chased her. That was the last Kahikilani saw of the bird maiden, though, for halfway up the mountain he was turned to stone.”89</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The bird maiden had “called on her ‘aumakua (family god) and the husband was turned to stone.”90</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The image of Kahikilani can still be seen, today, with a petrified lehua lei around his neck on a barren ridge above Paumalu Bay, less than a mile from the Kamehameha Highway. Today, this image is sometimes called “the George Washington Stone.91</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Umi vs. Paiea</span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In comparatively recent times, a story is told of an incident in the life of Umi-a-liloa, a rather unforgiving chief who ruled over the big island of Hawai‘i and Maui during the late 15th and early 16th century. The story reveals the less-than-noble character a life of privilege sometimes fostered. For, while “Umi was a very capable lad,” he was, “also a swaggering, arrogant youngster of royal birth who felt he could do as he pleased because his father was the king.”92 For surfers, the lesson lies in the price one can pay for competing in a surf contest.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Around 1480-85 “Chief Umi was living at Waipunalei,” wrote legendary early 20th Century surfer Tom Blake, when, “he and his friend attended a surfriding match at Laupahoehoe, being unknown there and in disguise.”93</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Fearing for the safety of his son,” explained Patterson in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf-Riding, Its Thrills and Techniques</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “the king caused him to travel incognito when touring the island in search of pleasure or adventure. On one of these trips young Umi, a lad of great physical strength, heard of a surfing carnival being held at Laupohoehoe near Hilo on the island of Hawaii. He took his party to Hilo and there haughtily let it be known that he excelled at surfing.”94</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“His arrogance was naturally challenged with enthusiasm by one of the petty chiefs,” Patterson continued.95 His challenger, a lesser chief named Paiea, “knew all the surfs and the best one to ride,” recorded Kamakau, in Ruling Chiefs of Hawaii. “It was the one directly in front of Laupahoehoe, facing Hilo. It was a huge one, which none dared to ride except Paiea, who was noted for his skill.”96</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Paiea invited Umi to a surfing match and offered a trifling bet which Umi refused.97 When Paiea upped his bet to four double-hulled canoes, Umi accepted.98</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The inspiration which caused surfing to reach its ultimate pitch of development,” according to Patterson, “was the Polynesian [Hawaiians] desire and delight in gambling. They were great gamblers and would stake their last remaining possession as a wager in a game.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“They had plenty of leisure due to the productivity of the islands, and it is only natural that they should look for the most pleasant source of outlet for their energies. They also possessed a keen interest in sports, most of which centered about water. In sporting events, surfing offered the greatest opportunity to the high chiefs because the higher ranking men were always shown preference at surfing locations when the waves were high and the sea was on a rampage. They were the only ones who could afford the ownership and care of superior boards which allow advantage in competition.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Early legends telling of surfing contests are almost entirely built up around petty or ranking chiefs in connection with some particular wager.”99</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kenneth Emory, an authority on Polynesian customs, wrote that, “Betting is quite unknown among the other islands of the South Seas.” Emory advanced the theory that Hawaiians learned gambling from contact with Japanese fishermen, who were known to have reached the Islands by shipwreck and accidental discovery prior to the European landing in 1778.100</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At any rate, “Gambling on surfing was practiced in that locality,” continued Kamakau. “All of the inhabitants from Waipunalei to Kaula placed their wager on Umi, and those of Laupahoehoe on Paiea.”101 “The wager made was a heavy one calling for four large outrigger canoes. But the royal prince treated the wager lightly, meeting it with the assistance of his regal party.”102</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Umi and Paiea paddled out [in] the high surf, pushing their boards through the heavy breakers until they reached the open sea where they spent considerable time maneuvering for the best position. They selected a large wave and paddled madly toward shore. They had chosen the largest wave of the series and it could be seen lifting high into the air, and, at the very crest, throwing spray which was caught by the wind and blown again out to sea. Presently, the force of the wave caught the boards and started them sliding along the slanting surface at the front of the crest.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“They both stood up simultaneously, their feet firmly placed on the convex deck of the boards. Magnificent surfers indeed, they were worthy of the keen attention that was given them from the shore by the many observers. They came with great speed and apparently neither surfer experienced difficulty as he glided along the entire course, ending up between the two floats serving as the goal. Umi won the contest and claimed his four canoes, leaving without revealing his identity.”103</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kamakau tells a slightly different and more detailed ending:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The two rode the surf, and while surfing Paiea noticed that Umi was winning. As they drew near a rock, Paiea crowded him against it, skinning his side. Umi was strong and pressed his foot against Paiea’s chest and then landed ashore. Umi won against Paiea...”104</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While generally agreeing with Kamakau, both Finney and Blake have slightly different overall versions. Finney wrote that Umi, “defeated Paiea and won the four canoes, but during the match Paiea’s surfboard had clipped Umi on the shoulder, scratching off some skin.”105 Blake has it that, “Umi won the bet but in coming in over the surf, by accident or design, Paiea’s board struck the shoulder of Umi and scratched off his skin.”106</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Duke Kahanamoku said that Paiea had won.107</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to Kamakau, “because Paiea crowded Umi against the rock with the intention of killing him, Paiea was roasted in an imu (oven),”108 in later years when Umi became the supreme king of the Big Island. Finney wrote that after the contest, “Umi said nothing at the time, but when he later came to power as high chief he had Paiea killed and sacrificed to his god at the heiau at Waipunalei.”109</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“When Umi became king,” agreed Patterson, “he made a trip to Hilo and caused Paiea to be killed in sacrifice to the gods at the Heiau temple, revengefully claiming that Paiea had allowed his board to bump him slightly while riding beside him in the surfing contest which had been held several years [previously].”110</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">No matter who won or whether Paiea was a good guy or bad, Umi’s revenge was extreme and Paiea’s end at the hands of Umi-a-liloa was the same. “In short,” said Duke Kahanamoku, “in ancient days a surfer could lose more in a contest than mere material stakes; he could and sometimes did lose his life.”111</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi The Rat Killer</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here is the story of Pikoi The Rat Killer, as told by W. D. Westervelt in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Legends of Old Honolulu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">:112</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">LONG, long ago in the Hawaiian Islands, part of the children of a chief’s family might be born real boys and girls, while others would be “gods” in the form of some one of the various kinds of animals known to the Hawaiians. These “gods” in the family could appear as human beings or as animals. They were guardians of the family, or, perhaps it should be said, they watched carefully over some especial brother or sister, doing all sorts of marvelous things such as witches and fairies like to do for those whom they love.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In a family on Kauai six girl-gods were born and only one real girl and one real boy. These “gods” were all rats and were named “Kikoo,” which was the name of the bow used with an arrow for rat-shooting. They were “Bow-of-the-heaven,” “Bow-of-the-earth,” “Bow-of-the-mountain,” “Bow-of-the-ocean,” “Bow-of-the-night” and “Bow-of-the-day.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">These rat-sister-gods seemed to have charge of their brother and his sports. His incantations and chants were made in their names. The real sister was named “Ka-ui-o-Manoa” (“The Beauty of Manoa”). She was a very beautiful woman, who came to Oahu to meet Pawaa, the chief of Manoa Valley, and marry him. He was an aikane (bosom friend) to Kakuhihewa, the kin, of Oahu. They made their home at Kahaloa in Manoa Valley. They also had Kahoiwai in the upper end of the valley.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The boy’s name was Pikoi-a-ka-Alala (Pikoi, the son of Alala). In his time the chief sport seemed to be hunting rats with bows and arrows. Pikoi as a child became very skilful. He was very clear and far sighted, and surpassed all the men of Kauai in his ability to kill hidden and far-off rats. The legends say this was greatly due to the aid given by his rat-sisters.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At that same time there was on Kauai a very wonderful dog, Puapualenalena (Pupua, the yellow). That dog was very intelligent and very swift.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One day it ran into the deep forest and saw a small boy who was successfully shooting rats. The dog joined him. The dog caught ten rats while Pikoi shot ten.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Some days later the two friends went into a wilderness. In that day’s contest the dog caught forty and the boy shot forty. Again and again they tried, but the boy could not win from the dog, nor could the dog beat the boy.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After a while they became noted throughout Kauai. The story of the skill of Pikoi was related on Oahu and repeated even on Hawaii. His name was widely known, although few had seen him.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One day his father Alala told Pikoi that he wanted to see his daughter in Manoa Valley. They launched their canoe and sailed across the channel, leaving the marvelous dog behind.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Midway in the channel Pikoi cried out: “Look! There is a great squid!” It was the squid Kakahee, who was a god. Pikoi took his bow and fitted an arrow to it, for he saw the huge creature hiding in a pit deep in the coral. The squid rose up from its cave and followed the boat, stretching out its long arms and trying to seize them. The boy shot the monster, using the bow and arrow belonging to the ocean. The enemy died in a very little while. This was near the cape of Kaena. The name of the land at that place is Kakahee. These monsters of the ocean were called Kupuas. It was believed that they were evil gods, always hoping to inflict some injury on man.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi and his father landed and went up to Manoa Valley. There they met Ka-ui-o-Manoa and wept from great joy as they embraced each other. A feast was prepared, and all rested for a time.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi wandered away down the valley and out toward the lands overlooking the harbor of Kou (Honolulu). On the plain called Kula-o-kahua he saw a chiefess with some of her people. This plain was the comparatively level ground below Makiki Valley. Apparently it was covered at that time with a small shrub, or dwarflike tree, called aweoweo. Rats were hiding under the shelter of the thick leaves and branches.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi went to the place where the people were gathered. The chiefess was Kahamaluihi, the wife of the king Kakuhihewa. With her was her famous arrow-shooting chiefess, Ke-pana-kahu, who was shooting against Mainele, the noted rat-shooting chief of her husband. The queen had been betting with Mainele and had lost because he was a better shot that day than her friend. She was standing inside tabu lines under a shaded place, but Pikoi went in and stood by her. She was angry for a moment, and asked why he was there. He made a pleasant answer about wishing to see the sport.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">She asked if he could shoot. He replied that he had been taught a little of the art, so she offered him the use of a bow and arrow and at that he said, “This arrow and this bow are not good for this kind of shooting.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">She laughed at him. “You are only a boy; what can you know about rat-hunting?“</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He was a little nettled, and broke the bow and arrow, saying, “These things are of no use whatever.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The chiefess was really angry, and cried out, “What do you mean by breaking my things, you deceitful child?“</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Meanwhile Pikoi’s father had missed him and had learned from his daughter that the high chiefess was having a rat-shooting contest. He took Pikoi’s bows and arrows wrapped in tapa and went down with the bundle on his back.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi took a bow and arrow from the bundle and persuaded the high chiefess to make a new wager with Mainele. The queen, in kindly mood, placed treasure against treasure.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele prepared to shoot first, agreeing with Pikoi to make fifteen the number of shots for the first trial.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi pointed out rat after rat among the shrubs until Mainele had killed fourteen. Then the boy cried: “There is only one shot more. Shoot that rat whose whiskers are by a leaf of that aweoweo tree. The body is concealed, but I can see the whiskers. Shoot that rat, O Mainele!”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele looked the shrubs all over carefully, but could not see the least sign of a rat. The people went near and thrust arrows among the leaves, but could see nothing.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then Mainele said: “There is no rat in that place. I have looked where you said. You are a lying child when you say that you see the whiskers of a rat.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi insisted that the rat was there. Mainele was vexed, and said: “Behold all the treasure I have won from the chiefess and the treasure which we are now betting. You shall have it all if you shoot and strike the whiskers of any rat in that small tree. If you do not strike a rat I will simply claim the present bet.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then Pikoi took out of the bundle held by his father a bow and an arrow. He carefully strung his bow and fixed the arrow, pointing the eye of that arrow toward the place pointed out before.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The queen said, “That is a splendid bow.” Her caretaker, however, was watching the beautiful eyes of the boy, and his general appearance.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi was softly chanting to himself. This was his incantation or prayer to his sister-gods:</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There he is, there he is, O Pikoi!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Alala is the father,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Koukou is the mother.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The divine sisters were born.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-heaven!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-earth!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-the-mountain!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-the-ocean!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-the-night!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Bent-bow-of-the-day!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Wonderful Ones!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O Silent Ones!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Silent.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is that rat—</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">That rat in the leaves of the aweoweo,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By the fruit of the aweoweo,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By the trunk of the aweoweo.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Large eyes have you, O Mainele;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">But you did not see that rat.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If you had shot, O Mainele,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You would have hit the whiskers of that rat—</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You would have had two rats—two.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Another comes—three rats—three!113</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then Mainele said: “You are a lying child. I, Mainele, am a skilful shooter. I have struck my rat in the mouth or the foot or any part of the body, but no one has ever pierced the whiskers. You are trying to deceive.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi raised his bow, felt his arrow, and said to his father, “What arrow is this?”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">His father replied, “That is the arrow Mahu, which eats the flower of the lehua-tree.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi said: “This will not do. Hand me another.” Then his father gave him Laukona (The-arrow-which-strikes-the-strong-leaf), but the boy said: “This arrow has killed only sixty rats and its eye is smooth. Give me one more.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">His father handed him the Huhui (The-bunched-together), an arrow having three or four sharp notches in the point.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi took it, saying, “This arrow wins the treasure,” and went toward the tree, secretly repeating his chant.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then he let the arrow go twisting and whirling around, striking and entangling the whiskers of three rats.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele saw this wonderful shooting, and delivered all the treasures he had wagered. But Pikoi said he had not really won until he had killed fourteen more rats, so he shot again a very long arrow among the thick leaves of the shrubs, and the arrow was full of rats strung on it from end to end hanging on it…</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The people stood with open mouths in silent astonishment, and then broke out in wildest enthusiasm. While they were excited the boy and his father secretly went away to their home in Manoa Valley and remained there with Ka-ui-o-Manoa a long time, not visiting Waikiki or the noted places of the island Oahu.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kakuhihewa, the king, heard about this strange contest and tried to find the wonderful boy. But he had entirely disappeared. The caretaker of the high chiefess was the only one who had carefully observed his eyes and his general appearance, but she had no knowledge of his home or how he had disappeared.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">She suggested that all the men of Oahu be called, district by district, to bring offerings to the king, two months being allowed each district, lest there should be a surplus of gifts and the people impoverished and reduced to a state of famine.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Five years passed. In the sixth year the Valley of Manoa was called upon to bring its gifts.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi had grown into manhood and had changed very much in his general appearance. His hair was very long, falling far down his body. He asked his sister to cut his hair, and persuaded her to take her husband’s shark-tooth knives. She refused at first, saying, “These knives are tabu because they belong to the chief.” At last she took the teeth – one above, or outside of the hair, and one inside – and tried to cut the hair, but it was so thick and stout that the handles broke, and she gave up, saying, “Your hair is the hair of a god.” However, that night while he slept his rat-sister-gods came and gnawed off his hair, some eating one place and some another. It was not even. From this the ancient saying arose: “Look at his hair. It was cut by rats.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pawaa, the chief, came home and found his wife greatly troubled. She told him all that she had done, and he said: “Broken were the handles, not the teeth of the shark. If the teeth had broken, that would have been bad.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi’s face had been discolored by the sister-gods, so that when he appeared with ragged hair no one knew him – not even his father and sister. He put on some beautiful garlands of lehua flowers and went with the Manoa people to Waikiki to appear before the king.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The people were feasting, surf-riding and enjoying all kinds of sports before they should be called to make obeisance to their king.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi wandered down to the beach at Ulu-kou where the queen and her retinue were surf-riding. While he stood near the water the queen came in on a great wave which brought her before him. He asked for her papa (surf-board) but she said it was tabu to any one but herself. Any other taking that surf-board would be killed by the servants.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then the chiefess, who was with the queen when Pikoi shot the rats of Makiki, came to the shore. The queen said, “Here is a surf-board you can use.” The chiefess gave him her board and did not know him. He went out into the sea at Waikiki where the people were sporting. The surf was good only in one place, and that [near the present Moana Hotel.] was tabu to the queen. So Pikoi allowed a wave to carry him across to the high combers; upon which she was riding. She waited for him, because she was pleased with his great beauty, although he had tried to disguise himself.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">She asked him for one of his beautiful leis of lehua flowers, but he said he must refuse because she was tabu. “No! No!” she replied.” Nothing is tabu for me to receive. It will be tabu after I have worn it.” So he gave her the garland of flowers. That part of the surf is named Kalehua-wike (The-loosened-lehua).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then he asked her to launch her board on the first wave and let him come in on the second. She did not go, but caught the second wave as he swept by. He saw her, and tried to cut across from his wave to the next. She followed him, and very skillfully caught that wave and swept to the beach with him.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A great cry came from the people. “That boy has broken the tabu!” “There is death for the boy!”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king, Kakuhihewa, heard the shout and looked toward the sea. He saw the tabu queen and that boy on the same surf-wave.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He called to his officers: “Go quickly and seize that young chief who has broken the tabu of the queen. He shall not live.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The officers ran to him, seized him, tossed him around, tore off his malo, struck him with clubs, and began to kill him.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi cried: “Stop! Wait until I have had word with the king.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">They led him to the place where the king waited. Some of the people insulted him, and threw dirt and stones upon him as he passed.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king was in kindly mood and listened to his explanation instead of ordering him to be killed at once.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While he was speaking before the king, the queen and the other women came. One of them looked carefully at him and recognized some peculiar marks on his side. She exclaimed, “There is the wonderful child who won the victory from Mainele. He is the skillful rat-shooter.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king said to the woman, “You see that this is a fine-looking young man, and you are trying to save him.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The woman was vexed, and insisted that this was truly the rat-shooter.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then the king said: “Perhaps we should try him against Mainele. They may shoot here in this house.” This was the house called the Hale-noa (Free-for-all-the-family). The king gave the law of the contest. “You may each shoot like the arrows on your hands [the ten fingers] and five more-fifteen in all.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi was afraid of this contest. Mainele had his own weapons, while Pikoi had nothing, but he looked around and saw his father, Alala, who now knew him. The father had the tapa bundle of bows and arrows. The woman recognized him, and called, “Behold the man who has the bow and arrow for this boy.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi told Mainele to shoot at some rats under the doorway. He pointed them out one after the other until twelve had been killed.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi said: “There is one more. His body cannot be seen, but his whiskers are by the edge of the stone step.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele denied that any rat was there, and refused to shoot.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king commanded Pikoi not to shoot at any rat under the door, but to kill real rats, as Mainele had done.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi took his bow, bent it, and drew it out until it stretched from one side of the house to the other. The arrow was very long. He called to his opponent to point out rats.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele could not point out any. Nor could the king see one around the house.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi shot an arrow at the doorstep and killed a rat which had been hiding underneath.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Then Pikoi shot a bent-over, old-man rat in one corner; then pointed to the ridge-pole and chanted his usual chant, ending this time:</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Straight the arrow strikes</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hitting the mouth of the rat,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the eye of the arrow to the end</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Four hundred—four hundred!114</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king said: “Shoot your ‘four hundred four hundred.’ Mainele shall pick them up, but if the eye of your arrow fails to find rats, you die.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi shot his arrow, which glanced along the ridge-pole under the thatch, striking rat after rat until the arrow was full from end to end – hundreds and hundreds.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The high chief Pawaa knew his brother-in-law, embraced him, and wailed over his trouble. Then, grasping his war-club, he stepped out of the house to find the men who had struck Pikoi and torn off his malo. He struck them one after the other on the back of the neck, killing twenty men. The king asked his friend. why he had done this. Pawaa replied, “Because they evilly handled my brother-in-law – the only brother of my wife, ‘The Beauty of Manoa.’”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king said, “That is right.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The people who had insulted Pikoi and thrown dirt upon him began to run away and try to hide. They fled in different directions.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi caught his bow and fixed an arrow and again chanted to his rat-sister-gods, ending with an incantation against those who were in flight:</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Strike! Behold there are the rats the men!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The small man,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The large man,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The tall man,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The short man,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The panting coward.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fly, arrow! and strike!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Return at last!115</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The arrow pierced one of the fleeing men, leaped aside to strike: another passed from side to side around those who had pitied him, striking only those who had been at fault, searching out men as if it had eyes, at last returning to its place in the tapa bundle. The arrow was given the name Ka-pua-akamai-loa (The-very-wise-arrow). Very many were punished by this wise arrow.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wondering and confused was the great assemblage of chiefs, and they said to each other, “We have no warrior who can stand before this very skilful young man.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The king gave Pikoi an honorable place among his chiefs, making him his personal great rat-hunter. The queen adopted him as her own child.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">No one had heard Pikoi’s name during all these wonderful experiences. When he chanted his prayer in which he gave his name, he had sung so softly that no one could hear what he was saying. Therefore the people called him Ka-pana-kahu-ahi (The-fire-building-shooter), because his arrow was like fire in its destruction.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pikoi returned to Manoa Valley with Pawaa and his father and sister. There he dwelt for some time in a great grass house, the gift of the king.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kakuhihewa planned to give him his daughter in marriage, but opportunity for new experiences in Hawaii came to Pikoi, and he went to that island, where he became a noted bird-shooter as well as a rat-hunter, and had his final contest with Mainele.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mainele was very much ashamed when the king commanded him to gather up not only the dead bodies of all the people who were slain by that very wise arrow, but the bodies of the rats also. He was compelled to make the ground clean from the blood of the dead. He ran away and hid himself in a village with people of the low class until an opportunity came to go to the island Hawaii to attempt a new record for himself with his bow and arrow.116</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">End Notes </span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">71 Patterson. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf-Riding</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Mele of Hono-kau-pu,” © 1960, pp. 124-5. Nuumehalani is the name given for the home of the gods. Patterson has “hidden harbor” in the fourth line, but this must be a typo. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Finney and Houston, p. 39.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">72 Pukui and Elbert, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Place Names of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1974. The name changed around 1800; “the area from Nu’u-anu Avenue to Ala-kea Street and from Hotel Street to the sea (Westervelt, 1964b:15), noted for konane (pebble checkers) and for ulu maika (bowling), and said to be named for the executive officer (ilamuku) of Chief Kakuhihewa of O’ahu (PH 168). Lit., kou tree.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">73 Gault-Williams, “Ancient Hawaiian Surf Culture.” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Finney & Houston, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1996, p. 30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">74 See Gault-Williams, “Ancient Hawaiian Surf Culture.” Former land section along the waterfront beyond the seaward end of Ala-kea Street, downtown Honolulu. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Pukui and Elbert, Place Names of Hawaii, 1974, p. 49. Lit., the albatross bay.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">75 Wright, Bank. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1973, 1985, pp. 16-17.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">76 Finney & Houston, 1996, p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">77 Patterson, 1960, p. 123.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">78 Patterson, 1960, p. 123.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">79 Patterson, 1960, p. 123.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">80 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, the Royal Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1966, C.E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont, pp. 38-39. See also Patterson, p. 123.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">81 Patterson, 1960, pp. 123-4.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">82 Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H. and Mookini, Esther T. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Place Names of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1974, The University of Hawai‘i Press, Honolulu, Hawai‘i, p. 144. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 39 and Westervelt, 1964b: 15, 52-54.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">83 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 33 & 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">84 Patterson, 1960, pp. 124-5. Nuumehalani is the name given for the home of the gods.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">85 Westervelt, 1915, p. 52-54. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">86 Patterson. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf-Riding</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Mele of Hono-kau-pu,” © 1960, pp. 124-5.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">87 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">88 Taylor, 1953, p. 20. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">89 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">90 Pukui and Elbert, 1974, p. 64.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35. Footnote.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 Patterson, Otto B. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf-Riding</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Its Thrills and Techniques, C.E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont, ©1960, p. 133.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 Kahanamoku, Duke (1890-1968). </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">World of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, by Duke Kahanamoku, with Joe Brennan. Grosset & Dunlap, New York, ©1968, p. 25.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 Blake, Thomas E. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfriders 1935</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Mountain and Sea, Redondo Beach, California, ©1983. Originally published as </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1935. Reprinted by permission, p. 8.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 Patterson, 1960, pp. 133-134.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 Patterson, 1960, pp. 133-134.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">97 Young, Nat. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The History of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Palm Beach Press, Palm Beach, NSW, Australia, ©1983, 1987, p. 32. Kamakau, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ruling Chiefs of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> quoted.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">98 Blake, 1935, p. 8.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">99 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, C.E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont, ©1966, p. 52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">100 Patterson, 1960, pp. 132-133.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">101 Blake, 1935, p. 8. Emory quoted.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">102 Young, 1983, p. 32. Kamakau, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ruling Chiefs of Hawaii </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">quoted.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">103 Patterson, 1960, pp. 133-134.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">104 Patterson, 1960, pp, 133-134.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">105 Young, 1983, p. 32. Kamakau, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ruling Chiefs of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> quoted.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">106 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">107 Blake, p. 8.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">108 Kahanamoku, 1968, p. 26.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">109 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">110 Patterson, 1960, pp. 133-134.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">111 Kahanamoku, 1968, p. 26.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">112 Westervelt, W.D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Legends of Old Honolulu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1915, published by G.H. Ellis Press, Boston.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">113 Westervelt, 1915.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">114 Westervelt, 1915.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">115 Westervelt, 1915.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">116 Westervelt, 1915.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFbF6YSO417ajiGSKpRL7lOulkXMq9QBwkh383MthIyBdhz3nCZeioH2-OLMOGBVmeIq9FytuaOWDkw3OinewNmvj4Q6pVDBiSSy3s_XChJ4s2qpHJEJrSaqpH5tMeQ49oX2zYuTK8IDePlX_hQc0oR1Zjq0gDspc5g_skvK_PPBkHoWhWCKhQQiwzQ/s1200/16687513611486498483641160119251.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1023" data-original-width="1200" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWFbF6YSO417ajiGSKpRL7lOulkXMq9QBwkh383MthIyBdhz3nCZeioH2-OLMOGBVmeIq9FytuaOWDkw3OinewNmvj4Q6pVDBiSSy3s_XChJ4s2qpHJEJrSaqpH5tMeQ49oX2zYuTK8IDePlX_hQc0oR1Zjq0gDspc5g_skvK_PPBkHoWhWCKhQQiwzQ/s320/16687513611486498483641160119251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">https://www.hiohia.org/</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-43732120031144356092022-10-14T23:07:00.002-07:002022-10-16T00:33:07.247-07:00Wakea<p> <span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on the legendary Polynesian </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wakea</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 18pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 18pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjl0znEVVD9TOfR46yTRUz0FzOu8XAjolfEfMeEJZBlgScPN4Ea1qFi7caeBmiOUcK381HbOElVBcNGwScA2gKyTvuEYDoLQMmzRFekY73HrSHJ4ppiJlfH79Y6HdGPAgOiXhRlCMpQSZrFeMcCKyvZaroH26qhx0jD_OS909DfzjAx45fqMKp3FRr_lQ" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="804" data-original-width="1080" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjl0znEVVD9TOfR46yTRUz0FzOu8XAjolfEfMeEJZBlgScPN4Ea1qFi7caeBmiOUcK381HbOElVBcNGwScA2gKyTvuEYDoLQMmzRFekY73HrSHJ4ppiJlfH79Y6HdGPAgOiXhRlCMpQSZrFeMcCKyvZaroH26qhx0jD_OS909DfzjAx45fqMKp3FRr_lQ" width="320" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 18pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Illustration by Herb Kane</span></div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; text-indent: 18pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">In “estimating the time of arrival of the Polynesian family in the Pacific,” Abraham Fornander wrote in the late 1800’s, “I have been guided almost wholly by their own genealogies and traditions. No other history throws any light on their departure, their passage, or their arrival. When once they entered the Pacific, they were lost, as it were, and forgotten.”65</span><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-dd6ffbee-7fff-28b2-e87d-aa20b309ed91"><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fornander recognized that the Polynesian legends and genealogies, themselves, are obscure, confused and contradictory to the point of making chronological placement difficult. The Kumuhonua genealogy sets itself apart by tracing itself back to Hawai‘iloa. However, most of the leading Polynesian groups trace their beginnings back to Wakea, Atea, or Makea and his wife Papa. One Tahitian legend traces itself back to Wakea and Tii – Hawai‘iloa’s brother.66</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The Wakean era,” wrote Fornander, “was undoubtedly one of great disturbance, displacement, and change in the ancient Polynesian homesteads. The very fact that so many of the principal tribes have retained his legend, though under different forms, and have attempted to localize him and his wife on their own groups, proves... that he was anterior to, or at least contemporary with, some great popular movement preceding or attending the first considerable exodus into the Pacific, the memory of which was linked to his name, and thus handed down to posterity.”67</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In Hawaiian </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Legends of Old Honolulu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1915, W.D. Westervelt wrote of Wakea and the beginnings of the Hawaiian people:68</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Through the legends, we become acquainted with Wakea (possibly meaning “noonday,” or “the white time”) and his wife Papa (earth), the most widely remembered of all the ancestors of the Polynesian race. Their names are found in the legends of the most prominent island groups, and the highest places are granted them among the demi-gods and sometimes among the chief deities. Their deeds belong to the most ancient times—the creation or discovery of the various islands of the Pacific world. Those who worshipped Wakea and Papa are found in such widely separated localities that it must be considered impossible for even a demi-god to have had so many homes.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Atea, or Wakea, was one of the highest gods of the Marquesas Islands. Here his name means “light.” The Marquesans evidently look back of all their present history and locate Atea in the ancient homeland. Vatea in the Society Islands, Wakea in Hawaii and New Zealand, Makea, Vakea and Akea are phonetic variations of the one name when written down by the students who made a written form for words repeated from generation to generation by word of mouth alone. Even under the name “Wakea” this ancient chief is known in most widely separated islands. The only reasonable explanation for this widespread reference to Wakea is that he was an ancestor belonging in common to all the scattered Polynesians. It seems as if there must have been a period when Wakea was king or chief of a united people. He must have been of great ability and probably was the great king of the United Polynesians. If this were the fact it would naturally result that his memory would be carried wherever the dispersed race might go.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the myths and legends of the Hervey Islands [Manuae, Cook Islands], Vatea is located near the beginning of their national existence. First of all the Hervey Islanders place Te-ake-ia-roe (The root of all existence). Then there came upon the ancient world Te Vaerua (The Breath, or The Life). Then came the god time – Te Manawa roa (The long ago). Then their creation legends locate Vari, a woman whose name means “the beginning,” a name curiously similar to the Hebrew word “bara,” “to create,” as in Gen. i. 1. Her children were torn out of her breasts and given homes in the ancient mist-land, with which, without any preparation or introduction, Hawaiki is confused in a part of the legend. It has been suggested that this Hawaiki is Savaii of the Samoan Islands, from which the Hervey Islands may have had their origin…</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One of the children of Vari dwelt in “a sacred tabu island” and became the god of the fish. Another sought a home “where the red parrots’ feathers were gathered” – the royal feathers for the high chiefs’ garments. Another became the echo-god and lived in “the hollow gray rocks.” Another as the god of the winds went far out “on the deep ocean.” Another, a girl, found a home, “the silent land,” with her mother. Wakea, or Vatea, the eldest of this family, remained in Ava-iki (Hawaii), the ancestral home – “the bright land of Vatea.” Here he married Papa. This Ava-iki was to the Herveyites of later generations the fiery volcanic under-world.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When the long sea-voyages ceased after some centuries, the islanders realized that Ava-iki was very closely connected with their history. They had but a misty idea of far-off lands, and they did know of earthquakes and lava caves and volcanic fires-so they located Ava-iki as the secret world under their islands. This under-world with legendary inconsistency was located on the ocean’s surface, when it became necessary to have their islands discovered by the descendants of Vatea. According to the Hervey legends, Vatea was the father of Lono and Kanaloa, two of the great gods of the Polynesians. They were twins. Lono had three sons, whom he sent away. They sailed out through many heavens and from Ava-iki pulled up out of the deep ocean two of the Hervey Islands.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The natives of the Hervey group supposed that the horizon around their group enclosed the world. Beyond this world line were heavens and heavens. A daring voyager by sailing through the sky-line would break out from this world into an unknown world or a heaven bounded by new horizons. Strangers “broke through” from heaven, sometimes making use of the path of the sun. Thus about twenty-five generations ago Raa (possibly Laa, the Hawaiian) broke down the horizon’s bars and established a line of kings in Raiatea. So also when Captain Cook came to the Hervey Islands the natives said: “Whence comes this strange thing? It has climbed up [come up forcibly] from the thin land, the home of Wakea.” He had pierced the western heavens from which their ancestors had come.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When the sons of Lono unexpectedly saw a speck of land far away over the sea, they cried out that here was a place created for them by their deified ancestors. As they came nearer they “pulled up” the islands until they grew to be high mountains rising from the deep waters. In these mountains they found the lava caves and deep chasms which they always said extended down under the seas back to Ava-iki. They made their caves a passageway for spirits to the fairy home of the dead, and therefore into certain chasms cast the bodies of the dead, that the spirit might more easily find the path to the under-world.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vatea was a descendant of “the long ago,” according to the Hervey legend. Wakea of Hawaii was a son of Kahiko, “the ancient.” Wakea’s home is more definitely stated in the Hawaiian than in the Hervey legends. He lived in O-Lolo-i-mehani, or The Red Lolo, a name confidently referred by Fornander in “The Polynesian Race” to Gilolo, the principal island of the Moluccas. The Red Lolo, as suggested by Fornander, would refer not alone to volcanic action and its decaying debris, but would fittingly designate the largest and most important island of the group. The fire bursting from many volcanoes in the region of the Sunda Straits was “royal” to the beholders, who felt that divine power was present in the mysterious red flames. Hence all the Polynesian tribes invested the red color with especial dignity as a mark of royalty and pre-eminence. It was on the banners allowed only to chiefs when their boats sailed away to visit distant lands. It was the color of the war cloaks of chiefly warriors.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the recent days of the monarchy of Hawaii, the richest crimson was the only color allowed in upholstering the great throne room. Gilolo might worthily bear the name “The Red Lolo” in Hawaiian story. Here Hawaii-loa, the first of the Polynesian Vikings, had his home. Here the Chieftainess Oupe, a Polynesian princess, dwelt. In O-Lolo Wakea married the granddaughter of Oupe, whose name was Papa. She is almost as widely known in legends as her husband. Papa was said to be a tabued descendant of Hawaii-loa and therefore superior in rank to Wakea. Papa is described as “very fair and almost white.” Her name means “earth,” and Wakea’s name might mean “noonday.” This, with the many experiences through which they both passed, would lay the foundation for a very pretty sun-myth, but we cannot avoid the human aspect of the legends and give them both a more worthy position as ancestors of a scattered people.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kahiko, the ancient, is recorded as having had three sons, from whom descended the chiefs, the priests and the common people the husbandmen almost a Shem, Ham and Japheth division. Other legends, however, give Kahiko only two sons, the eldest, Wakea, having power both as chief and priest. All the legends unite in making Wakea the head of the class of chiefs. This would very readily explain the high place held by Wakea throughout Polynesia and also the jealous grasp upon genealogical records maintained by the royal families of the Pacific.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wakea and Papa are credited with being the creators of many island kingdoms of the Pacific. Sometimes the credit is given partly to a mischievous fisherman-god, Maui, after whom one of the Hawaiian Islands is named. One of the Hawaiian legends goes back to the creation or discovery of Hawaii and ascribes the creation of the world to Wakea and Papa. The two were living together in “Po” – “darkness,” or “chaos.” Papa brought into existence a gourd calabash including bowl and cover, with the pulp and seeds inside. Wakea threw the cover upward and it became heaven. From the pulp and seeds he made the sky and the sun and moon and stars. From the juice of the pulp he made the rain. The bowl he fashioned into the land and sea. Other legends limit the creative labors of Wakea to the Hawaiian group. With the aid of Papa he established a portion of the islands; then discord entered the royal family and a separation was decided upon.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawaiian custom has always been for either chief or chiefess to exercise the right to divorce and to contract the marriage ties. Wakea is said to have divorced Papa by spitting in her face, according to an ancient custom. Wakea selected a chieftainess named Hina, from whom the island Molokai (the leper island) received the name “Molokai-hina” – the ancient name of the island. Morotai was also an island lying near Gilolo in the Molucca group, and might be the place from which Wakea secured his bride. Papa selected as her new husband a chief named Lua. The ancient name of Oahu (the island upon which Honolulu is located) was “Oahu-a-lua” (The Oahu of Lua). One of the Celebes Islands bears a name for one of its districts very similar to Oahu – “Ouadju.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Papa seems to have been partially crazed by her divorce. She marries many husbands. She voyages back and forth between distant islands. In an ancient island, Tahiti, she bears children from whom the Tahitians claim descent. In the Celebes she and her people experience a famine and she is compelled to send to O-Lolo for food. In New Zealand legend she becomes the wife of Langi (Hawaiian Lani, or heaven), a union of “earth” and “heaven.” They have six children. Four of these are the chief gods of ancient Hawaii: Ka-ne, “light”; Ku, “the builder”; Lono, “sound”; and Kanaloa. Two of the children are not named in Hawaiian annals, unless it might be that one, Tawhirri, should be represented in Kahili, the tall standard used for centuries as the insignia of very high chief families. The other name, “Haumia,” might possibly be Haumea, a second name given to Papa in the legends. The Maoris of New Zealand deify all of these six sons of Lani and Papa.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka-ne was “father of forests.” He was very strong. In ancient days the sky was not separated from the earth. He lifted up the heavens and pushed down the earth—and thus made space for all things to grow. It was while the sky rested its full weight upon the earth that the leaves started into life, but were flat and thin because there was no chance to become plump and full like the fruit which came later. Here is the foundation for another sun-myth of the Pacific, wherein it might be said light came and separating darkness from the earth brought life into the world. Light could well be “the father of forests.” The second son was Tawhirri, “the father of winds and storms.” A part of his name was “matea,” which might possibly be referred to Wakea. He dwelt in the skies with his father Lani.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The third son was Lono, who was “the father of all cultivated food.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The fourth was Haumia, “the father of uncultivated food” – such food as grew wild in the forests or among the herbs or in the midst of the edible sea-mosses.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The fifth son was Kanaloa, “the father of all reptiles and fishes,” at first dwelling in Hawaiki on the land with all his descendants.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The sixth son was Ku “with the red face,” “the father of fierce or cruel men.” Ku was easily made angry, and after a time waged war against his brothers and their followers. There was great destruction, but Ku could not win the victory alone. He was compelled to call upon Tawhirri, “the father of winds and storms.” Fierce men and fierce storms made it difficult for the remainder of the household to escape.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The “father of forests” bowed to the earth under the terrific force of hurricanes and tornadoes. The “fathers of foods” buried themselves deep in the ground to escape destruction at the hands of cruel mankind and tempestuous nature. Then came the bitter conflict between the family of Kanaloa and their combined enemies. Cruel men were without pity in the blows dealt against their inferior kindred. At last the fish fled to the sea and sought safety in distant waters, finding homes where the children of Ku did not care to follow. The reptiles fled inland to the secret recesses of the mountains and forests. There they have kept their wild savage life through the centuries even to the present day, as in Sumatra, Borneo, the Celebes, the Philippines and other sections of the region around the Sunda Straits. They are not now ocean lovers any more than in the ages past. They do not “go down to the sea in ships.” Neither do they love the coming of Dutch or Spanish or American civilization. They seem to have an hereditary dislike for strange and cruel men.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The sea rovers became great wanderers, carrying with them the name of “Kanaloa” and planting it in almost all the Pacific islands to be worshipped as one of the supreme gods.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">How much these domestic troubles surrounding the name of Papa may have had to do with an early migration of the Polynesians we do not know. It may be that while the household was engaged in war the Malays came from the north and with tornado power scattered the divided family, compelling swift flight to distant lands… </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Some of the Hawaiian and New Zealand legends imply that for a number of generations a part of the Polynesians remained in the old family home, Hawaiki. The New Zealanders enter quite fully into the account of the troubles attending the coming of their ancestors from Hawaiki. They mention battles and domestic discords. They tell of the long journeys and wearisome efforts put forth until their ancestors find Northern New Zealand, Ke-ao-tea-roa (The great white land). This was pulled up out of the sea for them by Maui with his wonderful fish-hook. This story of the magic fishing of the disobedient and mischievous Maui is common in Polynesia.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the discovery of New Zealand, boats were sent back to Hawaiki to induce large companies of colonists to leave the land of warfare and trouble and settle in rich lands bordering the beautiful bays of New Zealand.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Like stories of discovery of new lands and return for friends adorn the legends of all Polynesia. Wakea’s descendants were clannish and stood by each other in that great migration of the second century as well as in the better-remembered journeys of later years. There seems to have been a continued migration of the Polynesians. Sometimes they were apparently fought off by the black race, as in Australia; sometimes they held their own for a time, keeping the black men inland, as in Fiji; and sometimes they struck out boldly for new lands, as when they sailed long distances to the Hawaiian and Easter Islands. It is said that the purest forms of the Polynesian language, most harmonious with one another, were carried by the children of Wakea to the far distant islands of New Zealand, Hawaii and Easter Island.69</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wakea and Papa</span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wakea and his wife Papa are the people responsible for the Hawaiian race according to most Hawaiian genealogies. Some say they were from the big island of Hawai‘i while other genealogies claim that they were from Kahiki (Tahiti) or “distant lands” and later settled in the Hawaiian Islands. Even the birth of the Hawaiian Islands claims Wakea and Papa as their parents. According to the priest Pakui who was a great historian of King Kamehameha’s time, Wakea and Papa had Hawai‘i and then Maui (loa). Papa went back to Tahiti and her husband Wakea had Lana‘i with a woman named Ka‘ula, then Wakea had Moloka’i with Hina. Papa came back from Tahiti and was angry and jealous and she found a new husband and had O‘ahu from a man named Lua. Then later Papa went back to Wakea and had Kamawaelualanimoku (Kaua‘i). These islands were named after people who had done something so significant that the people named the islands after them. These people were children of Wakea and Papa.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This primary Wakea genealogy begins with Wakea and Papa and continues on through the children of Ki’i. They are Ulu and Nanaulu. Kaua‘i and O‘ahu genealogies cling more to the Nanaulu branch while Maui and Hawai‘i genealogies claim the Ulu branch. Abraham Fornander believes that the Ulu branch was more of a Southern Polynesian extraction versus the Nanaulu – Northern Polynesian. The Ulu branch splits into two other branches through ‘Aikanaka’s sons Punaimua and Hema. O‘ahu and Kaua’i chiefs claim their descent through Punaimua while Hawai‘i and Maui chiefs claim their descent from Hema.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Two versions of the genealogy – the Ulu and Nanaulu – are available for viewing at: http://home.earthlink.net/~motuahina/hawaiian_genealogy/wakeagen.html. The Ulu version shows a slight deviation from the Nanaulu version. The Ulu version claims their descent from Ho‘ohokukalani, the daughter of Wakea and Papa just as the Nanaulu branch does. However, the Ulu branch shows Wakea as the husband of Ho‘ohokukalani. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It was Wakea who set up the kapu (tabu) system, of which it is said he used to his advantage and slept with his own daughter. Papa in turn was jealous and slept with Ha‘akauilana, a servant of Wakea, and from them descends the kauwa or “outcasts”. The genealogy continues down to the high chiefess Kapi‘olani who defied the fire goddess Pele in 1824 by breaking the usual tabu and proclaiming the might of the Christian god Jehovah.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Many famous Polynesian chiefs are listed in the two genealogies, including some not of the Hawaiian Islands. Some were born in the Hawaiian Islands, while others were from Kahiki.70</span></p><br /><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">End Notes </span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">65 Fornander, 1878, Volume I, p. 160.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">66 Fornander, Abraham. The Polynesian Race, pp. 160-161. According to Fornander, between 57 and 70 generations had come and gone by the time of his writing, in the late 1800’s. His guess was that Wakea lived somewhere between 230 B.C. and 160 A.D.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">67 Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Polynesian Race</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, p. 162.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">68 Westervelt, W.D. Hawaiian Legends of Old Honolulu, 1915, published by G.H. Ellis Press, Boston. Source:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">http://home.earthlink.net/~motuahina/hawaiian_genealogy/wakeagen.html.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">69 Westervelt, W.D. Hawaiian Legends of Old Honolulu, 1915, published by G.H. Ellis Press, Boston. Taken from:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">http://home.earthlink.net/~motuahina/hawaiian_genealogy/wakeagen.html.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">70 Source: </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">http://home.earthlink.net/~motuahina/hawaiian_genealogy/wakeagen.html.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-43892796265791399712022-09-19T02:42:00.004-07:002022-09-19T02:49:32.517-07:00Hawai'iloa<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on the legendary Polynesian </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai’iloa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrV_BBYPQ-lfEPXZ75BSmymDkDKYdfxQV8NHauvm4hN1atwUUHHubPXtO3yEvcbZpWNHkF7ACBUOCNB4-BaiOC_oaBGIAt_IOoymwn1dgj29x7vUZcf4f3S_O7CuB42GyJoQvRZ3aNO2UxdsNyKPjuU4jet5ImiwDJEz6m4k0EqoeSKy-6pgJiPKFTA/s491/o-ke-kai-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="491" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrV_BBYPQ-lfEPXZ75BSmymDkDKYdfxQV8NHauvm4hN1atwUUHHubPXtO3yEvcbZpWNHkF7ACBUOCNB4-BaiOC_oaBGIAt_IOoymwn1dgj29x7vUZcf4f3S_O7CuB42GyJoQvRZ3aNO2UxdsNyKPjuU4jet5ImiwDJEz6m4k0EqoeSKy-6pgJiPKFTA/s320/o-ke-kai-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The modern day voyaging canoe Hawai'iloa</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Courtesy of the Polynesian Voyaging Society</div><br /><span id="docs-internal-guid-4f346db4-7fff-708a-cb64-5c1912a0b802"><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thanks to a large number of Polynesian and Hawaiian oral histories, we know about a number of surfers in the long ago. Many of the most notable legends of Polynesian and Hawaiian watermen from before the time of the written word – from the time of the </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mele</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 – were known surfers, while others – like Hawi‘iloa – can only be guessed as such.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to Hawaiian legends recorded by Abraham Fornander and Thomas George Thrum, Hawaiʻiloa was a great chief, expert fisherman and navigator who was famous for his lengthy voyages..</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While on one such, his principal navigator, Makaliʻi, asked Hawaiʻiloa to steer eastward towards </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aldebaran" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aldebaran</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Hokuʻula, meaning "red star") and the </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pleiades" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pleiades</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (near the </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ke_K%C4%81_o_Makali%CA%BBi" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cluster of Makaliʻi</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). After sailing in this direction, he and his crew stumbled upon the island of Hawaiʻi, which was named in Hawaiʻiloa's honor. Hawaiʻiloa returned to his homeland, </span><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka ʻāina kai melemele a Kāne</span><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> ("the land of the yellow sea of </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C4%81ne" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kāne</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"), to bring his family back with him to Hawaiʻi. He then organized a colonizing expedition with his family and eight other skilled navigators. They settled on what is now the </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawaii_(island)" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Island of Hawaiʻi</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, named in his honor.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The legend contains reference to his children: </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C4%81ui_(Hawaiian_mythology)" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Māui</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (his eldest son), </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kauai" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kauaʻi</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (son), and </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oahu" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #0645ad; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Oʻahu</span></a><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (daughter) who settled on the islands that bear their names.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="color: #202122; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although the Hawaiʻiloa legend is a realistic Hawaiian origin story that is consistent with modern anthropological and historical findings, and DNA research, its historical accuracy should be treated more for what it is than an actual historical reconstruction. Hawai’iloa’s exploits come to us as a product of many centuries of story telling from one generation to another.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to 19th Century Hawaiian folklorist Abraham Fornander, “the earliest reminiscences of the Hawaiian branch of the Polynesian family refer to a far western habitat on some very large island or islands, or perhaps continent, as the birthplace of their ancestors. This land was known under many names, but the most frequently occurring is ‘Kapa-kapa-ua-a-Kane.’ It is also called ‘Hawaii-kua-uli-kai-oo’ (Hawaii with the green back, banks or upland, and the dotted sea).”2</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This ancestral home was said to be “situated in Kahiki-ku, or the large continent to the east of Kalana-i-Hau-ola, or the place where the first of mankind were created.”3</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Seventeen generations4 after the same Flood (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ke kai-a-Kahinalii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) upon which the Biblical story of Noah is based – an event in the histories of many different people on the planet – on the east coast of Kapakapaua-a-Kane, in an area called Ka ‘Aina kai melemele a Kane (“Land of the yellow sea of Kane”)5 there lived “a chief of high renown and purest descent.”6 Chief Hawai‘iloa (“the great burning Hawa” or sometimes “the straits of the great burning Hawa”),7 also called Ke Kowa i Hawai‘i,8 was a noted fisherman and a great navigator.9 We can only assume that he was also a surfer and that many of the legends attributed to him are collected legends of the exploits of several men.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In Hawaiian folklore, Hawai‘iloa is a traceable descendant of the first man Kumu Honua and his wife Lalo Honua, who lived in the land called Kalana i Hauola. This line went all the way down to Aniani Ka Lani, Hawai‘iloa’s father, and Ka Mee Nui Hikina, his mother.10 Hawai‘iloa’s other three siblings were Ki, who settled in Tahiti, Kana Loa, who settled in Nukuhiwa, and Laa-Kapu.11</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa and his brothers were born on the east coast of Ka ‘Aina kai melemele a Kane (the land of the yellow or handsome sea of Kane).12 Hawai‘iloa was not only a distinguished man of his community, but also a noted fisherman famous for his fishing trips which could take as long as a month-to-a-year to complete. During this time, he roamed about the ocean on “fishing excursions” in his voyaging canoe (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">wa‘a</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) called also an “island” (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">moku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) with his crew and navigators (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">poe ho‘okele</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kilo-hoku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">).13</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Chain Discovered</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On one of Hawai‘iloa’s longer voyages, his principal navigator Makali‘i said, “Let’s steer the canoe in the direction of Iao, the Eastern Star, the discoverer of Land [</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hoku hikina kiu o na ‘aina</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">]. There is land to the eastward, and here is a red star, hoku‘ula (Aldebaran), to guide us, and the land is there in the direction of those big stars which resemble a bird.”14</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So, they took to the direction of Iao (Jupiter, “the eastern star”),15 the red star (the rising Aldebaran in the constellation of Taurus)16 and the Pleiades.17 The red star, situated in the lap of the goats (a constellation) was henceforth called Makali‘i after Hawai‘iloa’s navigator. Some other red stars in the circle of the Pleiades were called the Huhui-a-Makali‘i (“Cluster of Makali`i).18</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By taking this route, Hawai‘iloa and crew discovered a group of islands far from their western homeland.19 These islands have been generally considered to be the Hawaiian chain, though this is not certain. If it was Hawai‘i, then archeological evidence suggests a direct link between Hawai‘i and Hiva – the Marquesas Islands.20 In Fornander’s translations, not all the islands in the Hawaiian chain had been formed by this time. “When Hawai‘i Loa arrived here, there were only the two islands of Hawai‘i-Loa [Hawai‘i] and Maui-au-Ali‘i [Maui],” wrote Fornander, “but during his time and close afterwards the volcanoes on Hawai‘i and on Maui began their eruptions; and earthquakes and convulsions produced or brought to light the other islands.”21</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawaiian scholar Kepelino has all the islands in place upon Hawai‘iloa’s first landing on the western end of the archipelago. “First he saw the island of Kaua‘i, but he kept on sailing and found O‘ahu and then the islands of the Maui group, then, seeing the mountains of Hawai‘i, he kept on until he reached that island. There he lived and named the island after himself. The other islands from Maui to Kaua‘i were named for his children and probably for some who sailed with him.”22 Of Hawai1iloa’s children, Maui was the eldest, O‘ahu the next younger, and Kaua‘i the youngest. These names he gave to the three large islands, but it is probably that the smaller islands were named for others who accompanied him on the discovering voyage.23</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The voyagers “went ashore and found the land fertile and pleasant,” wrote Fornander, “filled with </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘awa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, coconut trees... and Hawai‘iloa, the chief, gave that land his name. Here they dwelt a long time and when their canoe was filled with vegetable food and fish, they returned to their native country with the intention of returning to Hawai‘i-nei, which they preferred to their own country.”24</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa and crew returned to their homeland. There, they were delayed a long while in their own country and amongst their own relatives,25 before returning to the newfound land. The time spent in Hiva was possibly due to their efforts to build enthusiasm and interest in the new land.</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Second Trip to Hawaii and First Settlement</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Finally, Hawai‘iloa and a new crew again set sail for the islands he had named. This time, Hawai‘iloa brought his wife and children and an unusually large amount of men-steersmen, navigators, ship builders and others. According to Kepelino, the second time Hawai‘i-nui sailed to Hawai‘i, he did so with only eight steersmen. Because of their skill in observing stars, each one was renamed after his favorite star. They were: Makali‘i, the famous steersman and great farmer; Iao; Kahiki-Nui; Hoku ‘Ula (named, possibly after the star Aldebaran); Maiao; Kiopa‘a (“fixed,” a name for Polaris, the north star; also called Hokupa‘a); Unulau; Polohilani (possibly the star Schedir in Cassiopeia).26</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Supposedly, Hawai‘iloa was the only man who had his wife and children along with him, but this is highly unlikely. On this voyage, the ka Hoku Loa, the Morning Star, was the special star they steered by.27</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the various Hawai‘iloa legends, the ocean Hawai‘iloa and his fellow voyagers traversed is called by different names. These include: Ka Moana-kai-Maokioki-a-Kane (the spotted, many-colored ocean),28 Kai Holo-o-ka-i‘a (the Ocean where the fish run),29 and Moana-kai-Popolo (the blue or dark-green ocean). After traversing the long distance, Hawai‘iloa and his entourage arrived finally at the islands Hawai‘iloa had previously named after himself and his son or children.30 Again, the various legends differ. Some have it that these events occurred early enough to the point where there were only two islands in the Hawaiian chain; others have all islands in place. The multiple-islands legend has Hawai‘iloa naming not only the big island for himself and Maui after his first-born son, but also O‘ahu after his daughter (and O‘ahu-a-Lua [Honolulu] after her foster parent Lua), and Kaua‘i after his younger son.31</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘i, Sawai‘i, Tonga?</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If the island group where Hawi‘iloa and clan settled was not the Hawaiian chain, it was no doubt somewhere within the confines of what we know as Polynesia.32 Added both to the uncertainty of where exactly Kapa-kapa-ua-a-Kane or Hawaii-kua-uli-kai-oo was located, is the uncertainty of where exactly Hawai‘iloa settled. Three Polynesian groups the Hawaiian, Samoan and Tongan have an island by the same name, with slight dialectical difference. Each claim the honor of having been first peopled and first named by people from the west.33</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawai‘iloa legend itself is just part of the epic Hawaiian legend of Kumuhonua (the first man) and indicates, according to the earliest traditionally handed down recollections of the Hawaiian people, that Hawai‘i was first peopled by emigrants from a land far to the west of it. Fornander admitted, “whether the Hawaii to which the legend refers be the Hawaii of the North Pacific, the Sawaii of the Samoan group, or the Jawa of the Asiatic Archipel, they did not come there from the east, north, or south, but from lands and seas in the far distant west.” Furthermore, “The Hawaiians considered themselves as emigrants, not as autochthones, of the Hawaii of which the legend speaks.”34</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawa or Hawai‘i that most Polynesians refer to as being the birthplace of their ancestors, Fornander mused, must have been well to the west of Polynesia.35 This may be the case of the original inhabitants that arrived with Hawai‘iloa, but archaeological evidence suggests the major cultural link to be Hiva (the Marquesas Islands),36 over 1600 years ago. “The argument for a Marquesan origin of some of the early settlers,” wrote Dennis Kawaharada of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, “is based in part on linguistic and biological evidence.”37 Archaeologist Patrick Kirch wrote, “Indeed, the close relationship between the Hawaiian and Marquesan languages as well as between the physical populations constitutes strong and mutually corroborative evidence that the early Hawaiians came from the Marquesas.”38</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Adzes, fishhooks, and pendants,” continued Kawaharada, “found at an early settlement site at Ka Lae on the Big Island of Hawai‘i resemble those found in the Marquesas. Also, the Marquesas Islands are the best departure point for sailing to Hawai‘i from the South Pacific because they are closer and farther east (upwind) than the Society Islands or the Cook Islands, two other possible sources of early migrants.”39</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Later Voyages of Hawai‘iloa</span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa, according to legend, made several voyages afterwards between Kapa-kapa-ua [Hiva?] and Hawai‘i to find his brothers and see if they had any children who might become husbands or wives to members of his party back on Hawai‘i.40</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa made these voyages to “the extreme south (i ka mole o ka honua). Leaving from Lae o Kalae, in Ka‘u, and following the stars of Ke Ali‘i-o-Kona-i-ka-Lewa (Canopus) and the stars of Hoku-kea o ka Mole Honua (the Southern Cross, also known as the ‘Star-cross of the bottom of the earth’)”. Utilizing these guides, Hawai‘iloa and crew made it to Tahiti and other islands to the south. On Tahiti, he found his brother Ki, who had settled there and called the island after one of his own names. Together, the brothers sailed southward (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">i ka mole o ka honua</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) and found some uninhabited islands. When they finally returned to Hawai‘i, they had with them Ki’s first born son Tu-nui-ai-a-te-Atua as a husband for Hawai‘iloa’s daughter O‘ahu.41</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa, Ki and party returned to Lae o Kalae, steering by the Hoku-‘iwa stars and the Hoku Poho ka ‘Aina.42</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tui-nui-ai-a-te-Atua and O‘ahu had a child named Kunuiakea, who was born at Keauhou, in Puna, Hawai‘i. Puna was a fertile land and was named after Tui-nui-ai-a-te-Atua’s (Kunuiaiakeakua) own birthplace, Puna-Auia, in Tahiti. Kunuiakea became a chief of the highest rank (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kapu loa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) and from him sprang all the race of chiefs in Hawai‘i (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo ali‘i</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). From the great navigator Makali‘i sprang the common people (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo kanaka</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). The priests (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo kahuna</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) were “one and the same with the race of the chiefs from the beginning.”43</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Other later voyages of Hawai‘iloa included a trip to Sawai‘i (Somoa), where he placed some of his offspring. They, in turn, became the ancestors of Sawai‘i, thereafter called Hawai‘i-ku-lalo (Hawai‘i rising downwind).44</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa afterwards revisited Tahiti where he found his brother Ki had returned and forsaken the religion they were born into together; the religion of Kane, Ku and Lono. Instead, Ki now worshipped Ku-waha-ilo [maggot-mouthed Ku], the man-eating god (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ke akua ‘ai kanaka</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). Hawai‘iloa soon left Tahiti after quarreling with his brother on this issue.45</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa revisited Tahiti a third time and Hawai‘i-ku-lalo (Sawai‘i) a second time, holding a meeting with those people at Tarawao. Finding that these people still persisted in following after the god Ku-waha-ilo, who required human sacrifices, and that they had now become used to man-eating, he renounced them, passing a law called “</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he Papa Enaena</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,” forbidding anyone from Hawai‘i-Luna (upwind Hawai‘i) from ever going to the southern islands for fear they would go astray, be converted to this new religion, and become cannibals.46</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fornander has Hawai‘iloa also visiting some western land that was neither Kapa-kapa-ua or i ka mole o ka honua. Travelling westward, he used Mulehu (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hoku Loa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) as his guiding star. He found a land where there lived “people with turned-up eyes” (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lahui maka-lilio</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) – Asians. Travelling across this land to the northward and west, he came to the country called Kua-hewa-hewa, part of a very large land expanse. Returning from this country, he brought back with him two white men (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">poe keokeo kane</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). On his return voyage he used the star Iao to help guide the way. After landing, Hawai‘iloa had the two white men marry Hawaiian women (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">a ho‘omoe i ko‘onei po‘e wahine</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">).47</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa made one last journey back to the southern and eastern shore of Kapakapaua-a-Kane and took with him his grandchild Kunuiakea in order to teach him navigation and long distance voyaging. When they returned, Kunuiakea brought with him two stewards (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he mau ha‘a elua</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), one called Lehua and the other Nihoa. They settled on the two Hawaiian Islands which bear their names. As </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">konohiki</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (land stewards), they were put under the charge of Kaua‘i, Hawai‘iloa’s youngest son.48</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa, Ki & Kanaloa Descendents</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to many of the legends, the descendants of the brothers Hawai‘iloa and Ki peopled nearly all the Polynesian islands. From Ki came the people of Tahiti, Borabora, Huahine, Taha‘a, Ra‘iatea and Mo‘orea.49</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘iloa’s lesser mentioned brother Kanaloa peopled Nukuhiwa, Uapou, Tahuata, Hiwaoa, and other islands of the Hiva group (Marquesas). On Nukuhiwa, Kanaloa married a woman from the man-eating people, from who sprang the cannibals who live on Nukuhiwa, Fiji, Tarapara, Paumotu (Tuamotus) and lesser islands in western Polynesia. Despite what some of the legends may indicate, the people of Hawai‘i and Tahiti never fully converted to cannibalism.50</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawaiian scholar Kepelino concluded, “Hawai‘i-nui was perhaps a chief or perhaps not; he was a man of high standing (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ke kanaka ko‘iko‘i</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), as I see it.”51 Fornander noted, “In the first age, from Hawai‘i Loa to Wakea, the royal authority and prerogative were not very well defined. The chiefs were regarded more in the light of parents and patrons (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">haku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), than as moi and ali`i-kapu, although they enjoyed all the honor and precedence due to their rank. This state of things was considerably altered by Wakea, his priest and successors, yet even so late as the time of Kanipahu, who refused the government, it is evident that the royal authority was not well settled in the olden times (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘aole he ano nui o na ‘li‘i ka wa kahiko loa ‘ku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">).”52</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Legend Examined</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scholars have questioned the authenticity of the Hawai‘iloa legend because of similarities between biblical stories and stories in the tradition of Kumuhonua. “The legend seems to be a summary of statements contained in many other legends and genealogies,” observed historian Bruce Cartwright. “At the time it was recorded in writing, many Hawaiians had become Christianized and were familiar with Biblical history. The temptation to interpret certain incidents similar to those in Biblical history as being in fact the Hawaiiian rendering of Biblical events seems to have influenced the translators. This unfortunate condition has more or less discredited the ancient legends on which the legend of Hawaii-loa is based, branding them, in the opinion of many modern students as ‘doctored accounts, influenced by Christianity.’”53</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Both Kamakau and Kepelino, early Hawaiian writers on the tradition of Hawai‘iloa, were Christian converts. The similarities between the biblical stories and the legend of Hawai‘iloa include the Hawaiian god formed by the trinity of gods Kane, Ku and Lono; the creation of the first man (Kumuhonua) out of clay and the first woman (Lalo Honua) out of the rib of the first man. Kanaloa, angry that he was denied </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘awa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, rebelled against god and later seduced the first woman. Afterwards, the first man and woman broke the law of Kane and fell from grace. The Hawaiian Noah is called Nu‘u, who survived the great flood in a large vessel with a house on it.54</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Randie Kamuela Fong, representing the traditionalist response, wrote, “after careful review of Fornander’s version of the Kumuhonua tradition, the Hawai‘iloa portion bears no resemblance to any biblical account. The names, places, and basic settings and plots give us no reason to question their age and authenticity. Further, Patience Bacon of the Bishop Museum remembers </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kupuna</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (elders) being interviewed” in the 1920’s and 30’s “by Tutu Puku‘i. The kupuna spoke of Hawai‘i Loa as their ‘reality.’”55</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Probably closest to the mark are Abraham Fornander‘s impressions. “I am inclined to think,” wrote Fornander, “that the legend of Hawii-loa represents the adventures and achievements of several persons... which, as ages elapsed, and the individuality of the actor retreated in the background, while the echo of his deeds was caught up by successive generations, were finally ascribed to some central figure who thus became the traditional hero not only of his own time, but also of times anterior as well as posterior to his actual existence... In much later times the same process was repeated, when the Hawaiian group was overrun by princely adventurers from the South Polynesian groups, who incorporated their own legends and their own versions of common legends on the Hawaiian folklore, and interpolated their own heroes on the Hawaiian genealogies.”56</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawai‘i Loa Story by Fornander</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The following is the Hawai‘i Loa story from Fornander, Vol. VI, 278-281. Another version entitled “Hawaii-nui,” in Hawaiian and English, appears in Kepelino’s </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Honolulu: Bishop Museum, 1932, 74-77):</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘i Loa, or Ke Kowa i Hawai‘i, was one of the four children of Aniani Ka Lani. The other three were Ki, who settled in Tahiti, Kana Loa, who settled the Marquesas, and Laa-Kapu. The ocean was called Kai Holo-o-ka-i‘a (Ocean where the fish run). Only two islands existed and both were discovered and settled by Hawai‘i Loa. The first he named Hawai‘i after himself; the second Maui, after his eldest son. (The other islands were created by volcanoes during and after the time of Hawai‘i Loa.57</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘i Loa and his brothers were born on the east coast of a land called Ka ‘Aina kai melemele a Kane (the land of the yellow or handsome sea of Kane).58 Hawai’i Loa was a distinguished man and noted for his fishing excursions which would occupy months, sometimes the whole year, during which time he would roam about the ocean in his big canoe (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">wa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">a</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), called also an “island” (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">moku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), with his crew and his officers and navigators (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">poe h</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">okele and kilo-hoku</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One time when they had been at sea for a long time, Makali‘i, the principal navigator said to Hawai‘i Loa, “Let’s steer the canoe in the direction of Iao, the Eastern Star, the discoverer of land [</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hoku hikina kiu o na ‘aina</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">]. There is land to the eastward, and here is a red star, hoku ‘ula (Aldebaran), to guide us, and the land is there in the direction of those big stars which resemble a bird.” And the red star, situated in the lap of the goats [a constellation], was called Makali‘i after the navigator. Some other red stars in the circle of the Pleiades were called the Huhui-a-Makali‘i (“Cluster of Makali‘i”).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So they steered straight onward and arrived at the easternmost island of the Hawaiian chain.59 They went ashore and found the land fertile and pleasant, filled with </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘awa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, coconut trees, and so on, and Hawai‘i Loa, the chief, gave that land his name. Here they dwelt a long time and when their canoe was filled with vegetable food and fish, they returned to their native country with the intention of returning to Hawai‘i-nei, which they preferred to their own country. They had left their wives and children at home; therefore, they returned to get them. When Hawai‘i Loa and his men arrived at their own country and among their relatives, they were detained a long time before they set out again for Hawai‘i.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At last Hawai‘i Loa sailed again, accompanied by his wife and his children. He settled in Hawai‘i and gave up all thought of ever returning to his native land. He was accompanied on this voyage by a great crowd of steersmen, navigators, shipbuilders, and others.60 Hawai‘i Loa was chief of all these men. He alone brought his wife and children; all the others came singly, without women, so he was the progenitor of this nation. On their voyage here, the Morning Star (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ka Hoku Loa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) was the special star they steered by. And Hawai‘i Loa called the islands after the names of his children and the stars after his navigators and steersmen. The island of Maui was called after Hawai‘i Loa’s first born son. The island of O‘ahu was called after Hawai‘i Loa’s daughter, and her foster parent was Lua, and hence the name O’ahu-a-Lua. Kaua‘i was called after Hawai‘i Loa’s younger son; his wife’s name was Waialeale, and they lived on Kaua‘i, and the mountain was called after her because there she was buried. And thus other islands and districts were called after the first settlers.61</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After Hawai‘i Loa had been some time in Hawai‘i-nei, he made another voyage to find his brothers to see if they had any children who might become husbands or wives to his own. They left from Lae o Kalae, in Ka‘u, and followed the stars Ke Ali‘i-o-Kona-i-k a-Lewa [Canopus] and the stars of Hoku-kea o ka Mole Honua [“Star-cross of the bottom of the earth,” or Southern Cross] to Tahiti and other islands to the south. On Tahiti, he found his brother Ki who had settled there and called the island after one of his own names. They sailed together southward (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">i ka mole o ka honua</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), and found an uninhabited island, which Hawai‘i Loa gave his name, and another smaller island, which he named for his daughter O‘ahu.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When they had finished their business there, they returned to Hawai‘i, to Lae o Kalae, steering by the Hoku-‘iwa stars and the Hoku Poho ka ‘Aina. On this return voyage, Hawai‘i Loa brought Tu-nui-ai-a-te-Atua, the first born son of his brother Ki, who became the husband of Hawai‘i Loa’s favorite daughter O‘ahu. The couple had a child called Kunuiakea, who was born at Keauhou in Puna, Hawai‘i. Puna was a fertile and fine land and it was called Puna by Kunuiaiakeakua [Tu-nui-ai-a-te-Atua] after his own birthplace, Puna-Auia, in Tahiti.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kunuiakea, on both father’s and mother’s side, became a chief of the very highest rank (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kapu loa</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). From him sprang the race of chiefs of Hawai‘i (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo ali‘i</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) and from Makali‘i sprang the race of common people (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo kanaka</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). The first has been kept separate from the most ancient times, and the second has been kept separate from the time of chaos (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mai ka Po mai</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). But the priestly race (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">welo kahuna</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) was one and the same with the race of chiefs from the beginning.62</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kunuiakea’s son Ke Lii Alia, and his grandson Kemilia, were born at Tahiti along with the Aoa, the royal tree; but his great grandson, Ke Lii Ku (Eleeleualani), was born on Hawai‘i.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Eleeleualani was the grandfather of Papa-Nui-Hanau-Moku (w). His wife was called Ka Oupe Ali‘i and was a daughter of Kupukupunuu from Ololoimehani (supposed to be either a name for the island of Nu‘uhiwa, or of a place on that island). They had a son called Kukalani‘ehu, whose wife was Ka Haka-ua-Koko, the sixth descendant from Makali‘i, and they two were the parents of Papa-Nui (w).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Papa-Nui-Hanau-Moku (w) first married Wakea, who was the son of Kahiko (k) and Tupu-rana-i-te-hau (w), who was a Tahitian woman. Papa’s first child with Wakea was a daughter called Hoohokukalani.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Papa, having quarreled with Wakea on account of their daughter [i.e., Wakea slept with their daughter], went to Tahiti and there she took to Te Rii Fanau for husband and had a son called Te Rii i te Haupoipoi. She afterwards returned to Hawai‘i under the name of Huhune and had a son with Waia and called him Hinanalo. Domestic troubles now made her crazy and she returned to Tahiti where she had another son with Te Ari‘i Aumai, who was said to be the fourth generation of the Tahiti chiefs, and she called his name Te Ari‘i Taria, and he became chief over that part of Tahiti called Taharu‘u.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Because she was the mother of chiefs, both here and in Tahiti, she is called Papa Nui Hanau Moku [“Great Papa, the Mother of Islands”]. She is said to have been a comely, handsome woman, very fair and almost white.63</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Papa is said to have traveled eight times between Tahiti and Hawai‘i, and died in a place called Waieri, in Tahiti, during the time of Nanakelihi, the fifth descendant from her and Wakea.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wakea was a wicked and bad man. He instituted the bad and oppressive kapu, such as that men and women could not eat together; that women could not eat red fish, hogs, fowl or other birds, and some kinds of bananas. These </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kapu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> were put on to spite and worry Papa, on account of her growling at and reproaching him for his wickedness. Wakea also departed from the ancient worship and introduced idol worship, and many people followed him, because they were afraid of him.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawai‘i Loa was born on the eastern shore of the land of Kapakapaua-a-Kane. One of Hawai‘i Loa’s grandchildren was called Keaka-i-Lalo (w) whom he married to Te Ari‘i Aria, one of his brother Ki’s grandchildren, and he placed them at Sawai‘i [Samoa?], where they became the ancestors of that people, Sawai‘i being then called Hawai‘i-ku-lalo [Hawai’i rising downwind].</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Afterwards Hawai‘i Loa revisited Tahiti and found that his brother Ki had forsaken the religion in which they were brought up, that of Kane, Ku and Lono, and adopted Ku-waha-ilo [maggot-mouthed Ku], the man-eating God (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ke akua ‘ai kanaka</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), as his God. After quarreling with his brother on this account, Hawai‘i Loa left Tahiti and brought with him Te Ari‘i Apa as a husband for Eleeleualani, his mo‘opuna (grandchild) From these two was born Kohala (w), a girl, from whom the Kohala people sprang.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Afterwards Hawai‘i Loa went again to Tahiti and Hawai‘i-ku-lalo (Sawai‘i) and held a meeting with those peoples at Tarawao, but finding that they persisted in following after the God Ku-waha-ilo and that they had become addicted to man-eating, he reproved and repudiated them, and passed a law called “he Papa Enaena,” forbidding anyone from Hawai‘i-Luna (upwind Hawai‘i) from ever going to the southern islands, lest they should go astray in their religion and become man-eaters.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When Hawai‘i Loa returned from this trip he brought with him Te Ari‘i Tino Rua (w) to be a wife to Kunuiakea, and they begat Ke Ali‘i Maewa Lani, a son, who was born at Holio in North Kona, Hawai‘i, and became the Kona progenitor.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After this Hawai‘i Loa made a voyage to the westward, and Mulehu (Hoku Loa) was his guiding star. He landed on the eastern shore of the land of the Lahui-makalilio (the people with the turned up, oblique eyes, i.e., Asians). He traveled over it to the northward and to the westward to the land of Kuahewahewa-a-Kane, one of the continents that God created, and thence he returned, by the way he had come, to Hawai’i nei, bringing with him some white men (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">po</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">e keokeo kane</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) and married them to native women (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">a ho</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">omoe i k</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">onei po</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">e wahine</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). On this return voyage the star Iao was his guiding star to Hawai‘i.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After this Hawai‘i Loa made another voyage to the southern and eastern shore of Kapakapaua-a-Kane and took with him his grandchild Kunuiakea in order to teach him navigation, etc. When they had stayed there long enough they returned and Kunuiakea brought with him “he mau ha‘a elua” (two stewards), one called Lehua and the other Nihoa, and they were settled on the two islands which bear their names, as konohiki (land stewards) and put under the charge of Kaua‘i, the youngest son of Hawai‘i Loa.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">When Hawai‘i Loa returned from the conference with his brother Ki and his descendants, his wife Hualalai bore him a son who was called Hamakua, and who probably was a bad boy (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">keiki ‘ino‘ino</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), for so his name would indicate. Ten years later, Hualalai died and was buried on the mountain of Hawai‘i that has been called after her name ever since.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After Hawai‘i Loa was dead and gone, in the time of Kunuiakea, came Tahitinui from Tahiti and landed at Ka-lae-i-Kahiki (the southwest point of Kaho‘olawe, a cape often made by people coming from or going to Tahiti.) Tahiti-nui was a mo‘opuna of Ki, Hawai‘i Loa’s brother, and he settled on East Maui and died there.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The descendants of Hawai‘i Loa and also of Ki (which are one, for they were brothers) peopled nearly all the Polynesian islands. From Ki came the people of Tahiti, Borabora, Huahine, Taha‘a, Ra‘iatea and Mo‘orea [the Society Islands].</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Kanaloa [brother of Hawai‘i Loa] were peopled Nukuhiwa, Uapou, Tahuata, Hiwaoa and those other islands [the Marquesas Islands]. Kanaloa married a woman from the man-eating people, Taeohae [Taiohae, on Nukuhiwa], from whom spring those cannibals who live on Nukuhiwa, Fiji, Tarapara, Paumotu [the Tuamotus], and the islands in western Polynesia – so is it reported in the Hawaiian legends and prayers – but the people of Hawai‘i and the Tahiti (properly speaking) did never addict themselves to cannibalism.64</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes </span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mele</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – Song, anthem, or chant of any kind; poem. See Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An Account of the Polynesian Race: Its Origin and Migrations</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Volume 1-3, Trubner, London, 1878, 1880 and 1885. Reprinted by Tuttle, Vermont, 1969. Volume 1, pp. 22-23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 133.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 Kamakau and Kepelino, page unknown. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Kawaharada, Dennis. “Exploration and Discovery,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 3.1.1, ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 25.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8 Kawaharada, Dennis. “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 3.3., ©1995. This section draws on the English version in Fornander, 1878, Volume 1 (VI), pp. 278-281 and the English and Hawaiian work of Kamakau, Samuel M. and Kepelino, Z., especially Kepelino, “Hawaii-nui,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, 1932, pp. 74-77.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12 Kepelino has Hawai‘i-nui (Hawai‘iloa) sailing from a land called Kahiki-Honua-Kele.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">13 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">15 Kawaharada, Dennis. “Exploration and Discovery,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 3.1.1., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">16 Kawaharada, “Exploration and Discovery,” Section 3.1.1., ©1995. No mention of this by Fornander.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">18 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20 Kirch, Patrick. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Feather Gods and Fishhooks</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, p. 64.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1 (VI), p. 279. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22 Some folktales say the other islands had not yet formed, others have them in place. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Polynesian Race</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1878, Volume 1, p. 132 and 134 and also Kepelino, “Hawaii-nui,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, 1932, pp. 74-77.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">23 Kepelino, “Hawaii-nui,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, 1932, pp. 74-77.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">24 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1 (VI), p. 278. Other versions suggest that ‘awa and coconut were brought by those who settled Hawai‘i.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">25 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">26 Kepelino, “Hawaii-nui,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, 1932, pp. 74-77.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">27 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">29 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">30 Depending on whether there were only two or more islands in the group.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">31 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">32 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, pp. 23-24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">33 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">34 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">35 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 25.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">36 Kawaharada, Dennis. “The Settlement of Hawai`i,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 3.1.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">37 Kawaharada, Dennis. “Hawai`iloa and the Voyage to Nukuhiva and Back 1995,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 1.2., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">38 Kirch, Patrick. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Feather Gods and Fishhooks</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, p. 64.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">39 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Voyage to Nukuhiva and Back — 1995,” Section 1.2., ©1995. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Chapter 1, “The First Surfers.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">40 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">41 Fornander, 1878 Volume 1 (VI), p. 279.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">42 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">43 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">44 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">45 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">46 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">47 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1, p. 135. Fornander translates that the marriage was done at sea, but this does not make sense because women only rode in the voyaging canoes when settlement was the aim for the destination. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See also</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">48 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">49 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">50 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">51 Kepelino, “Hawaii-nui,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, 1932, pp. 74-77.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">52 Fornander, 1878, Volume 1 (VI), p. 281.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">53 Cartwright, Bruce. “Some Allis of the Migratory Period,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bishop Museum Occasional Papers</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1933, p. 105.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">54 Kawaharada, “Hawai`iloa and the Discovery of Hawai`i,” Section 3.3., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">55 Randie Kamuela Fong quoted in Kawaharada, “Exploration and Discovery,” Polynesian Voyaging Society, Section 3.1.1., ©1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">56 Fornander, 1878, Volume I, p. 137. </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">57 Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An Account of the Polynesian Race: Its Origin and Migrations</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Volume VI, pp. 278-281. The story begins with the genealogy of Hawai’i Loa for many generations, from the first man, Kumu Honua, and his wife Lalo Honua, who lived in a land called Kalana i Hauola, down to Aniani Ka Lani, Hawai’i Loa’s father and Ka Mee Nui Hikina, his mother.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">58 Fornander VI. Kepelino’s version: Hawai’i-nui sailed from a land called Kahiki-Honua-Kele.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">59 Kepelino’s version states that the canoe made landfall at the western end of the archipelago: “First he saw the island of Kaua’i, but he kept on sailing and found O’ahu and then the islands of the Maui group, then, seeing the mountains of Hawai’i, he k ept on until he reached that island. There he lived and named the island after himself. The other islands from Maui to Kaua’i were named for his children and for some who sailed with him. Here are the names of his children: Maui was the eldest, O’ahu younger, and Kaua’i the youngest. These names he gave to the three large islands, but the smaller islands were perhaps named for those who accompanied him.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">60 Kepelino’s version: Hawai’i-nui sailed to Hawai’i with his eight steersmen: Here are their names: Makali’i, a famous steersman and great farmer; Iao; Kahiki-Nui; Hoku ‘Ula [perhaps the star Aldebaran]; Maiao; Kiopa’a [“fixed,” one name for Polaris, the north star; also called Hokupa’a]; Unulau; Polohilani [perhaps the star Schedir in Cassiopeia]. And because of their skill in observing the stars, each one called the star he observed after his own name. One steersman, Kahiki-Nui, has a land district on Maui named after him.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">61 Another passage in Fornander says “When Hawai’i Loa arrived here, there were only the two islands of Hawai’i-Loa and Maui-au-Ali’i; but during his time and close afterwards the volcanoes on Hawai’i and on Maui began their eruptions; and earthquakes and convulsions produced or brought to light the other islands” (279).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">62 Earlier in the story we are told that only Hawai’i Loa came with a wife and children so he was “the special progenitor of this nation” (278). Kepelino concludes, “Hawai’i-nui was perhaps a chief or perhaps not; he was a man of high standing (ke kanaka ko’iko’i), as I see it. He had a granddaughter Ku-ka-lani-ehu, who lived in ancient times.” A note at the end of the Fornander version states, “In the first age, from Hawai’i Loa to Wakea, the royal authority and prerogative were not very well defined. T he chiefs were regarded more in the light of parents and patrons (haku), than as moi and ali’i-kapu, although they enjoyed all the honor and precedence due to their rank. This state of things was considerably altered by Wakea, his priest and successors, yet even so late as the time of Kanipahu, who refused the government, it is evident that the royal authority was not well settled in the olden times (‘aole he ano nui o na ali’i i ka wa kahiko loa ‘ku) (281).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">63 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">See</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Kamakau, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tales and Traditions</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (133-135) for one version of the story of Papa and Wakea. Papa and Wakea are considered by many as the first female and male ancestors of the Hawaiian people: “Wakea, from whom all Hawaiian genealogies stem as the anc estors of the Hawaiian people, ‘both chiefs and commoners,’ is regarded as a man in Hawaiian tradition, not as a god as in southern groups [of Polynesia].” (Beckwith 294)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">64 Fornander VI. pp. 278-281.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-indent: 18pt;"><br /></p></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-36274302816997628312022-09-09T05:26:00.001-07:002022-09-09T05:26:47.416-07:00Doc, Ant (1944-2003)<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this installment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on South African surfer </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Anthony van den Heuvel</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">; called “Doc,” “Ant” or Tony by many friends.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV8UDFTx6igGE0YwbSSfQpryvQwEDYm-4w3cpZyICtCidGjgbjKWRqIbHpgZHwRkQxf5ENDrIoenxFg8RbbRZJEHmCvMZ938OlK1CFCI27NDrTpLcTpYpiFbjRg02At6iPiWYumW0K1YNWelJ9oXjzisgTF6b4wz6uIaeGge6_1eX1PU1UeYXYj13MdQ/s759/ant_decal.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="759" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV8UDFTx6igGE0YwbSSfQpryvQwEDYm-4w3cpZyICtCidGjgbjKWRqIbHpgZHwRkQxf5ENDrIoenxFg8RbbRZJEHmCvMZ938OlK1CFCI27NDrTpLcTpYpiFbjRg02At6iPiWYumW0K1YNWelJ9oXjzisgTF6b4wz6uIaeGge6_1eX1PU1UeYXYj13MdQ/s320/ant_decal.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><span id="docs-internal-guid-b3742c47-7fff-6aff-5cbb-9282c902186a"><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This retrospective of Ant was put together shortly after his passing in 2003, by Garth Robinson and Andrew “Roosta” Lange with the help of Bruce Gold and some of Ant's other friends; submitted to me to be included in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Andrew “Roosta” Lange wrote:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"Energy cannot be created nor destroyed, but merely transferred from one object to another."</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – Albert Einstein</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Rest In peace Anthony 'Doc' van den Heuvel. Born 1944. Died Sunday morning, 21 September 2003, in his camp on the dunes overlooking Supertubes, Jeffreys Bay. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Doc will go down in history as one of South African surfings' martyrs – For his lifestyle, his attitude and interpretation of living to surf, staying on the beach and staking his claim and right to live and die on the dunes ovelooking one of the worlds most hallowed surfspots. It's a story so overwhelming and tidal I feel almost a little young and insignificant to reflect Doc's true message, so I have enlisted the help of three other 'custodians' of our South African surf culture; Bruce Gold, Christine Moller and Shorty Bronkhorst, interview-style to help weave this one down the line and into some proper sense! </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">All three being Doc's true 'partners-in-crime', Christine and Doc were two of SA's first representatives charging the North Shore of Hawaii almost three decades back, whilst Bruce and Shorty go as far back as surfing itself and have shared Doc's path so we can be rest assured of an accurate and honest reflection of what really went down... </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk80dCMU2qqRPsJpEP2ZLd8F8jlUXSi-_aIjwKGZdiGKtx_uLTWDia4V80cXPsl3Atn5DD7uhIx2p9bLCXs4mC0euv1x4FqzHPqHl3eL-kWU1eDV0qzipuSngqOuCFPlXgu4y-Isd7m15QrTLzICTCbYRsmthrYc8S7bHwZS_nJ6zT9N75PHa3Dy713w/s1080/facebook_1662427313939_6972725532565590620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk80dCMU2qqRPsJpEP2ZLd8F8jlUXSi-_aIjwKGZdiGKtx_uLTWDia4V80cXPsl3Atn5DD7uhIx2p9bLCXs4mC0euv1x4FqzHPqHl3eL-kWU1eDV0qzipuSngqOuCFPlXgu4y-Isd7m15QrTLzICTCbYRsmthrYc8S7bHwZS_nJ6zT9N75PHa3Dy713w/s320/facebook_1662427313939_6972725532565590620.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ant photo by Jason Coniry</div><br /><p></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: You and Doc were cruising together on you first trip to J-Bay, right?</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shorty: It was in 1966 when he came back from competing for South africa in Peru and ah, we actually did a trip to Cape Town and stopped off here in J-Bay on the way, and then stopped again on the way back. Then I had to get back, hey, and Doc said "Im staying a bit longer!" (laughs) and of course there was nothing here I mean not a house in sight. We all camped in the dunes down the bottom of the point. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: What was the story with Doc when they wouldn't give him his Springbok colours? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shorty: He didn't actually get them because there was John Whitmore you see, who told him that if he didn't cut his hair he couldn't surf and he just wouldn't cut it! So they never gave him his colours. That tells you a lot about Doc, hey? Rather than cut his hair, he'd rather not have his Springbok blazer! (more laughing) </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: What do you reckon, Christine? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: "Well, I also knew Tony since he was sixteen. It was during the Durban Lifesaving Club days, he was with Pirates and Shorty was at South Beach then. Tony became a pro lifeguard as well. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: So then how did you two end up meeting in Hawaii? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: I was over there from California and he came over from South Africa to stay and surf the North Shore. It was before all the contests started happening. Just before we left they started having one or two events, it was around '66 i think. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: Did he charge? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: Charge what? Oh, (laughs) well, I guess he did – I think we were all were surfing like crazy in those days. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: Were you guys like partying hard? What was the whole Hawaiian social scene like back then? Did you guys chill out in hammocks and drink weird smoothies or what? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: No, it was quiet. I mean we'd go home, make dinner, go to bed‘n get up early the next morning! There was no nightlife. There were some youngsters from San Francisco and they got a light show going in Honolulu, that was about it. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: What about that really solid wave Bruce was telling us about that you and the Doc shared at Sunset when it was big? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: We had a lot of waves at Sunset, I suppose. Well, it's different; the waves over there. I had my semi-gun, that was a beautiful board from Greg Noll. I could ride it in three foot surf or ten foot surf.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: What was the story? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: I dunno, the waves got bigger and bigger the way I hear it! (more laughter) I don't think they were that big. I dunno. I suppose you don't think about it when you're young and strong, you just go out there and you surf! </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: Young and stupid, hey? Just like me! Bruce, where and when did you first meet Doc? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bruce: End of '68, hey, right here at the point. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: Were you guys camping or what? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bruce: Ja, we came out here on a surfing trip and Doc was staying here in a half a bus, half a silver bus. He'd been here for a while. He had a sore back from doing a flick-flack on a tiny green 5'6" surfboard. I even saw him shaping a board on the beach with some Aussie. Gavin Rudolph rode it the first time. I remember that was J-Bay in 1968. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: How would you describe Doc's style of surfing? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bruce: Very controlled, very powerful. Precise and considered surfing, stylish. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: What era suited his surfing best? </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bruce: Longboard surfing for sure. Mickey Dora came back here and he only rode longboards and he inspired us more or less to stay on the longboards. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">AL: Tell us a cool story about the Doc. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Christine: Many years ago with my blue Kombi we went over to St Francis. We were actually looking at the pictures today. And Tony says "This is how you go in here," as he waxes his board. There's all those stones there and he goes climbing over the stones and jumps on his board and starts paddling and knocks his skeg off! (heaps of laughter) </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It was around '92 when I first heard from an Aussie that the infamous Doc was on the scene again, having moved out of the Pellsrus township. Staying at Koffie's Surf Camp, keeping the coals blazing around the fire and telling the tourists surf stories. I had to see it for myself and thus started my friendship and 'tutelage' with the Doc, Supertubes and the politics of Jeffreys Bay. Since all I'd ever heard through grommethood was the name, like he was one of the pioneers of J-Bay or something, respect came naturally. You see Doc was as respected as he was hated at times. Animo-city is not a place in Disneyland, it lives and breathes in the lungs of spoilt antagonists in towns just like J-Bay. Doc lived the way he wanted, which was not without confrontation. Negativity as a result of his actions, habits and attitude came and went like the tide, like the two sides of Doc; one unequivocally cool, the other on edge, disillusioned and angry at the way things had become with the scene, crowds and the reckless over-development of J-Bay.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early winter two or so years ago a bunch of us who had been hanging in town surfing a few swells ended up carting Doc's stuff back out to the dunes. Armed with spades and some good pieces of wood, we re-established his camp. The thing was, well, is that not just anyone could have done something like that! Think about it, to be able to stake your claim to a piece of dune overlooking one of the worlds most hallowed surf spots and get away with it, you'd have to have lived a life like Doc’s! None could argue his right to be there. He'd been one of the first hanging on those dunes and flying down-the-line on those waves since '66. Nobody will ever be able to lay claim to a legacy of fast living and barrel riding like Doc's surfing career in J-Bay! Nobody. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Physically, at 59 ripe years of age it was a challenge to camp in those dunes. For a while, he had his dog Faith and then Socks and all the crew in the 'office' under the boardwalk and things were rocking. Tight people, good times and bad. I'm sure a heap of us have spent many a day watching the show between sessions; Christine knitting Bippo beanies on one side, Bruce doctoring the Doc's back on the other while he grooved to his radio, crafting leather boots and sandals and dogs and pups ran around your feet like crazy! Doc's work was renowned the world over, check the old Art Brewer photo of his thigh-high Ugg boots, custom built for the infamous Bunker Spreckles, not to mention Mickey Dora's politically incorrect sealskin boots! (Still in the possession of one B. Gold) You just had to have patience and order your boots long before you left J-Bay. And so he eked out a few bucks from the leatherwork, did some interviews for surf mags and generally survived in a style one could only survive on in a place like J-Bay, with its history as a surf-travel mecca and international meeting place for all forms of tube riding. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Doc's presence on the boardwalk was like a part of the whole J-Bay package. After a day hussling or being hussled by locals in the sometimes ridiculously intense Supertubes line-up, foreigners could always talk to the real old local who'd been there forever." </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – Jeffreys Bay resident</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"Aren't we all just a bunch of escape artists on the prowl for fun anyway!?!"</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – Anonymous surfer</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The years ticked by and the inimitable Doc carried on with his tidal ways as the mood swings. Ill health and wild times reached a peak, literally, with one wild Christmas binge. The Doc started coming down. I'm sure i can say on behalf of a lot of people who knew him that the Doc that we knew in the time before he died was the most humble and reverant person around. You could almost see he knew how lucky he was to still be there and was gonna milk it for as long as he was still around! </span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Last Swell</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – full moon, Wednesday 10th September 2003 </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Four daze of waves, two swells – the first peaking at almost twelve feet by late evening with only the usual suspects left out: Mickey Duffus, Asho, Brickez, Mikey Meyer, Stuey Shelver and Dave Weare. After the best day of surfing in ages, the boys were feeling festive, having a few Labels in the carpark, watching the show, when out the bush from the Point comes the infamous artist and resident head case Pierre de Villiers Fourie.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"Where the surfers now?" he shouts "I see lots of people watching but not too may out. I used to surf here by myself when it was about 15 foot! But now I'm dying, what do you care!" he rants and waves his big stick. Everyone shakes their head and we blame it on the moon shining full and silver like a coin as moonlight jumps and fades on the swell-filled bay. He rants some more and disappears in the direction of Doc's camp. About a half a Black Label later Doc shows up and we tell him the story. He sympathizes with Pierre's scenario, typical brilliant artist gone crazy and decrepid from time and circumstance, but still does not want to bump into him at all costs! The carpark starts emptying and we all filter outa there, hungry like hunters for the morning session... </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Next morning it's dropped to five, maybe six feet solid. Everyone's out already getting pitted – light northwest opening the barrels even more than usual. I watch Simon and Peter Nicholson get stand-up barrels, one brother after the other. 'The Foot' Greg Emslie is charging the bottom section while AC and Elsie carve deep in and out of barrels backhand, no rail-grabbing. It's epic to watch and I cruise down the boardwalk over to the Doc and Shorty. Doc's a mess and I ask what happened? "Pierre came into my camp last night and beat the shit outa me with his stick!" His elbow's swollen like a tennis ball, his breathing laboured from a shot across the back and he's limping from another shot on the hip.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Two or so days later the story continues as Christine cruises down the boardwalk to find Doc whose been sitting there in the sun all day because he's inable physically to climb the last little stretch into his camp. She takes him home for the night and over to Bruce in the morning for a massage. Doc confides in Bruce saying how he never really felt homeless until now, with Pierre on the loose.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Now, Doc never really was in the best physical condition in the first place and a knock across the back could be like a whack on the kidneys; you could just be walking around a week later and drop dead! As I write this, an autopsy declares that Doc died of natural causes: a heart attack. We don't know what really happened, but what we do know is that we lost a legend. We may or may not have been able to prevent it from happening, but some good must come from this all – it's Doc's message. </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">"You can spend your whole life trying to figure out how to make a million or you can spend your time doing what you love and what you're good at!"</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – Doc quoted in South African Surfer magazine, 1970's</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpjEN0hatbEl4ZVTdfZGde_iyXkvypOncKe5MdNoLlprk7_pTWIERP_FomQKUoKRWZsd78R5NcZcypjR4kLey4PRTStjDV82mgq7V4e9_i1r-Ol-LfMM_iQ6R-fDQ_dNHEtPQKKbbE6tLfSGjnaTzl0smLCZJ40rYxc5lxfZjdxrGkUQfKG9WHJ8WWA/s960/FB_IMG_1662426965723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpjEN0hatbEl4ZVTdfZGde_iyXkvypOncKe5MdNoLlprk7_pTWIERP_FomQKUoKRWZsd78R5NcZcypjR4kLey4PRTStjDV82mgq7V4e9_i1r-Ol-LfMM_iQ6R-fDQ_dNHEtPQKKbbE6tLfSGjnaTzl0smLCZJ40rYxc5lxfZjdxrGkUQfKG9WHJ8WWA/s320/FB_IMG_1662426965723.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Ant in his prime. Photo courtesy of Ian Barron</div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrjaHp4-Ib5YI-dX2f_aTAvSQyAasR6FBs5OqL2qRGyR2Tuxavo2YM_9ItOfs3r0QKOztXPoWD3aVfdepHMzMtMhE0haCvUwmWphFxAC-kco3gZVkWqtEx6QBxx7bBm4E597GON-M3ri9O4oG-KonmCioorDRgmA6XQKxkPEFstM80fT9byxds6Ex-AQ/s960/facebook_1662516811682_6973100913307828914.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="783" data-original-width="960" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrjaHp4-Ib5YI-dX2f_aTAvSQyAasR6FBs5OqL2qRGyR2Tuxavo2YM_9ItOfs3r0QKOztXPoWD3aVfdepHMzMtMhE0haCvUwmWphFxAC-kco3gZVkWqtEx6QBxx7bBm4E597GON-M3ri9O4oG-KonmCioorDRgmA6XQKxkPEFstM80fT9byxds6Ex-AQ/s320/facebook_1662516811682_6973100913307828914.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><br /></p><p></p><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-16926596594205336532022-09-06T01:00:00.002-07:002022-09-19T02:49:03.425-07:00Wahines & Surfspeak<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this installment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wahines and Surfspeak</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1dWL6GKTMYMLTKBaD54q-wzBs-bToBSvJaTz9zdEA3qi3Zl9B116QDW7cthFpo-MQaN2B2KaBCpHELfyx65rSMFwrq5Zk51EZZJ1K0dLLCFoTusS6myjMQJ8LXhR5XJVyHm19s3a7Luo3OYzTPDO0-fY7uh6e-dbdfjYgyHGBEcDS8pNdpNgBx2B4Q/s900/Hawaii-Surfers_bettman-archive_getty-images.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="506" data-original-width="900" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn1dWL6GKTMYMLTKBaD54q-wzBs-bToBSvJaTz9zdEA3qi3Zl9B116QDW7cthFpo-MQaN2B2KaBCpHELfyx65rSMFwrq5Zk51EZZJ1K0dLLCFoTusS6myjMQJ8LXhR5XJVyHm19s3a7Luo3OYzTPDO0-fY7uh6e-dbdfjYgyHGBEcDS8pNdpNgBx2B4Q/s320/Hawaii-Surfers_bettman-archive_getty-images.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Hawaii Surfers, Bettman Archive, Getty Images</div><span id="docs-internal-guid-0ca80ddb-7fff-27a3-f886-eaa1a694ae49"><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">All classes, ages and both sexes enjoyed surfriding in pre-European Hawai‘i and it was important in their lives.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although early European accounts do not mention who surfed the most, eye-witness descriptions usually refer to adult men and women, with occasional reference to children riding smaller boards closer to shore. Except on those beaches where the most dangerous swells peaked, men and women shared surfing areas equally.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Compared to later eras when a low ratio of surfing females-to-males became the norm, a large percentage of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">wahines</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> of old Hawai‘i were skillful surfers and often champions. Early European engravings of the sport are full of half-dressed island girls perched on surfboards at the top of a curling wave.116</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawaiian woman’s lifestyle both in and out of the water was not what we might imagine, today. “Walking around half naked, beating kapa for the family clothing and bedding, weaving lauhala mats, gathering limu (seaweed) and freshwater fish, and bringing up the children,” summarized Kawika Sands in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wahine O Hawai‘i</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, written in 1999. “Her tools were anything but fancy. Poi pounders, kapa beaters, gourds, bowls, coconut dishes, stone lamps with kukui nuts burning in them for light though it was generally the children’s duty to keep them burning. Getting dressed was somewhat different for these Hawaiian women. They wore a skirt made from five thicknesses of kapa called the pa‘u. By having an attendant or two hold one end on the ground, she rolled herself up into it. Considering her size, it was probably the most streamlined method. It was a humble existence, yet she was freer and more liberated than her sisters across the sea.”117</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kawika continued: “Today’s societal ideal of the beautiful woman was not that of old Hawaiian society. The Chiefess was considered most beautiful if she were at least six feet tall, and almost half as wide. In old Polynesia, fat meant survival particularly when it came to the long ocean crossings. Something Herb Kane suggested in the early days of the sailing canoe Hokule‘a, further suggesting that this may have actually helped to determine the general physical stature of the Polynesian. Basically, it was the bigger, the better and the women were fed to stay that way!</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Hawaiian women swam, surfed, climbed, fished, ran, and were active in sports... She too paddled and steered outrigger canoes if the kapu allowed. She would even fight beside her Hawaiian brothers (although it was not generally encouraged).”118</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One of the best known and glorious battles of ancient Hawai‘i was the battle of Nuuanu. This was the final Hawaiian battle that took place on O‘ahu, ushering in the reign of King Kamehameha and the unification of the Hawaiian Islands for the first time. At that battle, a chiefess took up arms against the invading king’s forces. Wearing a helmet and feathered cloak, and using spears and clubs, she fought to the death alongside her men. It was only after the battle was won that Kamehameha found that some of the warriors who had fought so valiantly were actually women.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In an interesting twist, men did most of the cooking. Hawaiian women would later take pity on missionary women who stood over hot stoves and cooked. Actually, building the imu (an earthen oven dug into the ground and lined with stones), opening coconuts, etc. was hard work so these chores, too, fell upon the men to do.119</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ke-kai-o-Mamala, one of O‘ahu’s finest ancient surf spots, was named after the woman Mamala. Thomas Thrum, writing in an 1896 article entitled, “Hawaiian Surf Riding,” stated that, “Native legends abound with the exploits of those who attained distinction among their fellows by their skill and daring in this sport, indulged in alike by both sexes; and frequently too – as in these days of intellectual development – the gentler sex carried off the highest honors.”120</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“This equality and sexual freedom,” wrote Finney and Houston, “added zest to the sport and was important to its widespread popularity. No doubt many an amorous Hawaiian, who didn’t feel at all like surfing that day, found himself paddling for the breaker line in pursuit of his lady love, knowing full well that if a man and woman happened to ride the same wave together, custom allowed certain intimacies when they returned to the beach. More formal courtship was also carried out in the surf, when a man or woman tried to woo and win a mate by performing on the waves.”121</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing as courtship is corroborated in a story that appeared in one of Honolulu’s first Hawaiian language newspapers, a publication most likely under missionary influence. In the December 23rd 1865 issue of Nupepa Kuokoa, in an article about “Ka Holomana Kahiko” (</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Sports of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">), J. Waimau recalled that at surfing contests held in older times, the men, looking like “a company of soldiers of that day,” would wear red-dyed malo (loincloths) and assemble on the beach. Women would make their way to the beach in matching red-dyed kapa skirts. Then, “they (would) go and join together with the men in surfriding. In their surfing, a man and a woman will ride in on the same surf. Such riding in of the man and woman on the same surf is termed vanity, and results in sexual indulgence.”122</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian legends abound in tales of love affairs gone good and bad and surfing is an element in many of them. “Great romances could blossom or fade with the rising and falling of ocean swells,” noted Ben Finney, adding that passionate adventures of champion surfers, and some of the most famous courtships began on the edge of the ocean and these are all recorded in Hawai‘i’s abundant oral history. These tales indicate surfing’s significance in the daily lives of the Hawaiian people in the before time.123</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early Hawaiian Surf Speak</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As it is today, it has always been. As surfers, we have our own language. Ancient Hawaiian surfers were no different. In addition to the more than 107 surfing-specific geographical areas specially noted for their waves and the many </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">meles</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> which relate a rich surfing culture, another gauge of the sport’s importance in the long ago was common daily usage of specific Hawaiian surfing terminology. Researcher Ben Finney documented forty sum terms, but admitted, “this probably represents only a portion of the traditional surfing glossary.”124</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The following list is a compilation of some Hawaiian surfing-specific terminology:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">· </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">‘ahua – A place close to shore where a broken wave rises and breaks again, known also as kipapa or puao.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">· </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">alaia – A thin surfboard, wide in front and tapering toward the back, made of koa or breadfruit; sometimes called an omo.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e – To slide, to surf.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e nalu – To ride a surfboard; surfing; literally wave sliding.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e pu‘ewai – Toward the mouth of a stream, or up a stream.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e umauma – Body surfing.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heihei nalu – A surfboard race.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">honua nalu – The base of a breaker.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">huia – An especially high wave formed by the meeting of two crests, said to characterize the surf of Kaipaloaoa, Hawai‘i.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kaha – To surf; to body surf.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kaha nalu – Body surfing.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kakala – The surf in which an alaia board is used; a curling wave.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kiko‘o – A 12-to-18-foot surfboard, good for surf that breaks roughly, but is hard to handle.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kioe – A small surfboard.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kipapa – The prone riding position; or, a place close to shore where a broken wave rises and breaks again.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kulana nalu – The place where a surfer paddles to catch a wave; usually the most distant line of breakers.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">lala – Diagonal surf; or surfing diagonally to the front of the wave; a wave to the right; with muku, a wave to the left; or, the seaward side of a cresting wave.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">lauloa – A long wave that crests and breaks from one end of the beach to the other.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">lele wa‘a – Canoe leaping; leaping from a canoe with a surfboard in order to ride the wave.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">muku – The side of a wave near the crest; broken section of a wave; or, a wave to the left (see lala).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">nalu – A wave; surf; full of waves; to form waves.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">nala ha‘i lala – A wave that breaks diagonally.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">nalu puki – A wave that shoots high.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">nalu-nalu – Rough; of a sea with high waves; to form high waves.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">no ka pakaka ale – Gliding on the surf; probably refers mainly to canoe surfing.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ohu – One of two kinds of surf ridden (the other is lauloa); a low, small wave that rises without breaking but with enough strength to carry a board; sometimes called opu’u.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">olo – The long heavy surfboard reserved for chiefs; made primarily from wili wili.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">omo – Another name for the </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">alaia</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> board.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">onaula-loa – A wave of great length and endurance.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">onini – A surfboard used by experts, difficult to manage; a thick board made of wili-wili; probably the same as olo.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">opu‘u – A large surf, a swell.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">owili – A thick board of wili-wili; probably an olo.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pa-ha – A surfboard.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">papa he‘e nalu – A surfboard. Literally, a board for sliding waves. Ha’awi papa he’e nalu, to give with the understanding the board would be returned. Boards were loaned rather than given.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">·</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pu‘ua – A surfboard.</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pervasive throughout all aspects of Hawaiian society and culture – including religion, language, festivals, love, competition, song and story – surfing was completely woven into the life fabric of the Hawaiian Islands. Men, women and children all rode the ocean waves on a variety of surfboards. That a surfboard industry existed and was related to Hawaiian religious practices there is no doubt. That surfers rode sometimes to gamble and win great prizes and sometimes to gamble and lose all is sung about in the ancient </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">meles</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.125</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">With chants, contests, special terms, numerous places to ride waves, and literally thousands of hand-carved boards to ride upon, surfing was the Hawaiian sport of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ali‘i</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">maka‘ainana</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> alike. Wave sliding was a vital aspect in the lives of the people of this isolated island world when European voyagers landed in 1778 and changed everything.</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">116 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 41-42 and the 1996 edition, p. 36.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">117 Sands, Kawika. “Wahine o Hawaii,” from the Hana Hou Series, ©1999.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">118 Sands, Kawika. “Wahine o Hawaii,” from the Hana Hou Series, ©1999.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">119 Sands, Kawika. “Wahine o Hawaii,” from the Hana Hou Series, ©1999.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">120 Thrum, Thomas G. “Hawaiian Surf Riding,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Almanac and Annual for 1896</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Honolulu, Hawaii, pp. 106-107. See also Finney and Houston, p. 42.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">121 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 42 and the 1996 edition, p. 38.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">122 Waimau, J. “Ka Holomana Kahiko,” Nupepa Kuokoa, December 23, 1865. Quoted in Lueras, 1984, p. 38.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">123 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 42.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">124 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 41.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">125 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 56.</span></p><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-25244347070014536442022-08-31T01:22:00.001-07:002022-09-19T02:49:57.255-07:00Traditional Hawaiian Life<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this installment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditional Hawaiian</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Life</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOSl3z72oWaOk4xfXNtUgZANX-ApfFpiyUYTFvrntdWb1WsDEILvIKf6MJ0ru2pqwJP-4LHE7j_iheFpPVnzIflGJyimZXUjFBI5-34O69p1eazYQHmhn-xOWwhgUllr1tM5tz5r7NBLcQCZMZCRB-LUMqVqb5EkryVqGuRGePVbgZFSwFfloGvtYTg/s436/bishopimage1800s.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="339" data-original-width="436" height="249" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqOSl3z72oWaOk4xfXNtUgZANX-ApfFpiyUYTFvrntdWb1WsDEILvIKf6MJ0ru2pqwJP-4LHE7j_iheFpPVnzIflGJyimZXUjFBI5-34O69p1eazYQHmhn-xOWwhgUllr1tM5tz5r7NBLcQCZMZCRB-LUMqVqb5EkryVqGuRGePVbgZFSwFfloGvtYTg/s320/bishopimage1800s.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span id="docs-internal-guid-ffdc20cf-7fff-db16-a609-58f95a482231"><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early Twentieth Century surf great Tom Blake felt the article in the </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Annuals of 1896</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, translated by Nakuina, to be “the finest contribution on old surfriding in existence.”76</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The “native from Kona,” whom Nakuina translated, not only described surfing during his time, but also told of competition and betting being integral to Hawaiian surf culture:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Surfriding was one of the favorite sports, in which chiefs, men, women and youths took a lively interest. Much valuable time was spent by them in this practice throughout the day. Necessary work for the maintenance of the family, such as farming, fishing, mat and tapa making, and such other household duties required of them and needing attention, by either head of the family, was often neglected for the prosecution of the sport. Betting was made an accompaniment thereof, both by the chiefs and the common people, as was done in all other games, such as wrestling, foot-racing, holua, and several other games known only to the old Hawaiians. Canoes, nets, fishing lines, kapas, swine, poultry and all other property was staked, and in some instances, life itself was put as a wager. The property changing hands and personal liberty or even life itself sacrificed according to the outcome of the match, the winners carrying off their riches, and the losers and their families passing to a life of poverty or servitude.”77</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The ali‘i took great pride in the skill, grace, speed, and courage involved in surfriding. They often performed in public, sometimes to court a visiting queen from another island, sometimes as part of a gathering of island chieftains. Most often, however, gambling was a part of a contest or competition. Indeed, gambling and competition were major elements in the pursuit of surfing. The fact that betting accompanied nearly every contest was no doubt an important incentive for the popularity of the sport.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Before a surfing contest in which chiefs were competing, a dog might be buried in an underground oven and baked, so that the contestants could periodically replenish their strength during the match. If the contest was one of pride, the chiefs would gird themselves in tapa loincloths dyed red. When preliminaries were over and all the bets were in, the competing surfers paddled out to a predetermined position to wait for a swell to come through. As soon as a large wave rose up behind them they paddled, caught it together and rode until they reached a pua (buoy) anchored inshore. The first man to the buoy won the heat. Probably several such rides determined the winner of the contest.”78</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">American Anthropologist</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> of 1889 documents a variance to this kind of contest featuring surfriders starting from shore. “The riders sometimes also raced to the kulano, or starting place. Standing on the boards as they shot in was by no means uncommon. Men and women both took part in this delightful pastime, which is now almost a lost art... Racing in the surf is called hie-eie-nalu, ‘hie-eie’ meaning to race and ‘nalu’ meaning to surf. Two champions will swim out to sea on boards, and the first on arriving on shore wins.”79</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There were other kinds of ocean competitions, also, involving canoes and sleds. Noted anthopologist Kenneth Emory documented that, “The wave sought in surfing by board or canoe was one that welled up high and smooth, and did not break quickly or all at once. That sort of a wave was called an ohu, or opuu, whereas the long wave breaking all at once was called Kakala.”80</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">One kind of match pitted a chief’s surfboard against another chief and his land-locked holua sled. At Keauhou, on the western side of the Big Island, one can still see the stone holua slide stretching several hundred yards down the mountain slope to the shore at He‘eia Bay. A grass house once sat at the bottom of the slide and beyond the house, out to sea, was the noted surfbreak of Keauhoua. When the largest wave of a swell’s set was spotted heading toward shore and the center of the surfing area, an assistant would wave a tapa flag from his position at the grass house. A young chief at the top of the slide would then run a few powerful steps, throw himself and his narrow sled belly-down on the slide, and plummet seaward. At the same time, out at sea, a surfer would catch the wave that had triggered the signal and race the sled to shore. The first to reach the grass hut was the winner.81</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Wagering on such matches,” noted Finney and Houston, “by contestants as well as spectators, was a favorite and often fanatic pastime that occasionally overshadowed the sport itself.”82</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Antiquities</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published by the Bishop Museum in 1951, Nineteeth Century Hawaiian scholar David Malo agreed that, “Surf-riding was a national sport of the Hawaiians, on which they were very fond of betting, each man staking his property on the one thought to be most skillful... Hawaiians were much addicted to gambling, even to the last article they possessed.”83</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This passion for gambling was unusual for Polynesians as a whole. In the other island groups, betting was either unknown or otherwise not practiced. Because of this, Kenneth Emory advanced the theory that Hawaiians actually got gambling from shipwrecked Japanese fishermen, prior to European contact. However it started, by the time the Europeans first started to observe life in the Hawaiian chain, gambling was an essential aspect connected to sports of all types. An excited native might impetuously wager canoes, fishing nets and lines, tapa cloth, swine, and sometimes his own life or personal freedom, all on the outcome of a match. The consequences were often dramatic. To the winners went the spoils. For the losers, it could mean death or a life of servitude for himself and his entire family.84 The dangers of such a contest are illustrated in the legendary match between Uni-a-liloa and Paiea.85</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mele and Hula</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Having no written language, the Hawaiians developed the mele (poetry and music) and hula (dance) to convey the stories handed down from generation to generation. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Meles</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> always contain subtle, hidden meanings: 1) the ostensible meaning; 2) the sexual double meaning; 3) a mythological, historical or topographical meaning (usually religious) or; 4) a </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kauna</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, or deeply hidden meaning.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mele</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> is presented in either oli form or </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">hula</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. The </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">oli</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> form is a recital method of chanting or intoning, unaccompanied by any musical instrument, with a limited tonal range which was practically monotone. Hula was a physical interpretation of the words of the song, augmented by ornamental gestures which expressed the different meanings a mele contained. According to legend, the first hula was danced by the goddess Hi‘iaka on the black sand beach at Puna on the southern coast of the Big Island. Hula later became the primary function of the goddess Laka. Although it – along with other Hawaiian traditions – suffered greatly in the 1800s, hula is alive and well, today, and is practiced by both women and men who graduate from a </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">halau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (school) under the teachings of a </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kumuhula</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (master).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditional Hawaiian musical instruments include: </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ipu hula</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (gourd drum); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ka-laau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (the gourd’s beating stick); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ohe keeke</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (unstripped bamboo struck to make a clanking sound); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pu-ili</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (section of bamboo split into long, slender teeth, struck against each other against the performer’s body, producing a rattle sound); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pahu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (hollowed coconut trunk with shark skin head); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">pu puhi</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (conch shell horn); pu-nui (drum with cords used in tying it to the knee of the beater); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ohe hano ihu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (nose flute); </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">uliuli</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (rattle gourd made of coconut containing seeds or pebbles, trimmed with feathers and tapa, shaken by the hula dancer); and </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ili-ili</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (castanets made of smooth pebbles, clicked together by hand).</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The following is the mele of Naihe, a man of strong character, but not a high chief. He was born in Kona and resided at Napoopoo. His mother was Ululani. His father was Keawe-a-heulu, who was a celebrated general and strategist under Kamehameha I:86</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He Mele-Inoa (No Naihe)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A Name-Song, A Eulogy (for Naihe)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka nalu nui, a ku ka nalu mai Kona,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka malo a ka mahiehie87</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka onaulu-loa,88 a lele ka‘u malo.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The huge roller, roller that surges from Kona,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Makes loin-cloth fit for a lord;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Far-reaching swell, my malo streams in the wind;</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O kakai89 malo hoaka,90</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O ka malo kai,91 malo o ke alii.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">E ku, e hume a paa i ka malo.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shape the crescent malo to the loins –</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The loin-cloth the sea, cloth for king’s girding.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stand, gird fast the loin-cloth!</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">E ka‘ikai92 ka la I ka papa o Halepo;93</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A pae o Halepo i a nalu.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ho-e‘e i ka nalu mai Kahiki;94</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He nalu Wakea,95 nalu ho‘ohua.96</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Haki opu‘u97 ka nalu, haki kua-pa.98</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Let the sun guide the board Halep,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Till Halepo lifts on the swell.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It mounts the swell that rolls from Kahiki,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Wakea’s age onrolling.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The roller plumes and ruffles its crest.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ea mai ka makakai99 he‘e nalu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kai he‘e kakala100 o ka moku,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kai-ka o ka nalu nui,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka hu‘a o ka nalu o Hiki-au.101</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kai he‘e-nalu i ke awakea.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here comes the champion surfer,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While wave-ridden wave beats the island,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A fringe of mountain-high waves.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spume lashes the Hiki-au altar –</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A surf this to ride at noontide.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ku ka puna, ke ko‘a I-uka.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka makaha o ka nalu o Kuhihewa.102</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ua o ia,103 noha ka papa!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Noha Maui, nauweuwe,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nauweuwe, nakelekele.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The coral, horned coral, it sweeps far ashore.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We gaze at the surf of Ka-kuhi-hewa.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surfboard snags, is shivered;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Maui splits with a crash,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Trembles, dissolves into slime.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nakele ka ili o ka i he‘e-kai.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Laliali ole ka ili o ke akamai;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kahilihili ke kai a ka he‘e-nalu.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ike‘a ka nalu nui o Puna, o Hilo.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Glossy the skin of the surfer;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Undrenched the skin of the expert;</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wave-feathers fan the wave rider.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You’ve seen the grand surf of Puna, of Hilo.104</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Makahiki</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Hawaiian luau is named for the taro tops traditionally served at this feast. “The custom of the luau,” wrote Tom Blake, “is a happy note in old Hawaiian life. The luau, meaning feast, was an excuse for hospitality on a grand scale, music, dancing, eating, awa drinking, chanting, love making.”105 The grand Hawaiian luau amounted to the Makahiki, a four-month-long celebration.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing was integral to the annual Makahiki. The ancient festival coincided with the rise of winter waves in the fall season. The Makahiki began when the Huihui – or Makali‘i – star group made its first evening appearance in the eastern sky. Greek astronomers called the Makali‘i the Pleiades – or “seven little sisters” – and this is how they are most commonly known in the Western World, today.106 In our time, the Pleiades show in Hawai‘i at the present time around the middle of November. In other latitudes and in other eras the date is different. Around the year 1000 A.D., the Pleiades would have risen at sundown in the Hawaiian Islands about November 5th; 2000 years ago, on October 20th.107</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lolo was the patron deity of the Makahiki festivities between mid-October and mid-January. During that time, Hawaiians stopped work, relaxed, and passed much of their time dancing, feasting and participating in sports. Religious ceremonies and a kapu on war was also part of this most special time of the year.108</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thousands gathered to watch tournaments; prominent of which were the surfing contests. A particular akua pa‘ani (special god of sport) usually presided over each contest. Kenneth Emory wrote, “No important contest was engaged in without approaching the gods with prayers and offerings to win their favor. Some god presided over every sport. When a man felt he was in harmonious relations with the mysterious forces about him he was quite likely to accomplish superhuman feats of strength and skill.”109</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Interestingly and somewhat disappointingly for some, nowhere in the whole colorful collection of ancient Hawaiian gods is there mention of a special deity for surfing. In Tahiti, Ellis recorded the presiding god of surfing was Huaouri. His Hawaiian counterpart can only be assumed, but remains nameless and unknown.110</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Heiau</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The possibility of a surfing god is strengthened by the existence of more than one </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> for surfing on the big island of Hawai‘i. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – ancient Hawaiian temples, shrines, or places of worship – were built sometimes in connection with a community, with an individual god, or a certain activity. Types of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> known to us, today, include:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ho‘ola – for treating the sick.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ho‘o-ulu‘ai – for the increase of crops; where first fruits were offered.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ho‘o-ulu i‘a – where fish were offered to insure good fishing.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ho‘o-ulu ua – where offerings were made to insure rain.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ka-lua ua – for stopping the rain</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au ma‘o – small temporary heiau covered with tapa stained green, used for the ho‘oulu ‘ai ceremony to bring food.111</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au po‘o kanaka – where human sacrifices were made.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">• hei-au wai-kaua – for services to bring success in war.112</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">John Francis Gray Stokes (1876-1960), in his archaeological study </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Worship of the Hawaiian Islanders</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, identified the seaside </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> at Kahalu‘u Bay on the Kona coast as a spot where locals made offerings and prayed to their gods for good surfing conditions.113 The Ku‘emanu Heiau is a large structure built of lichen-spotted black lava rock. Stokes recorded locals as describing this as, “a heiau for surf-riders, where they could pray for good sport.” The compound contains a stone pool convenient for rinsing water from bodies after surfing. Stone terraces are a dominant feature of the temple and these are so aligned that from the upper level, spectators could easily watch surfers riding waves less than a hundred yards away. Good sized surf still breaks offshore at Ku‘emanu, directly in front of the </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.114</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Ku‘emanu religious site is very similar to another heiau fronting the sea at Holualoa, a few miles north of Kahalu‘u. This site is known as Keolonahihi Heiau. A pool and bleacher-like terrace are features there, too, and it also faces a once-well-known surfing area. Both places, in fact, were noted in earlier times for the good surf close-by. At Keolonahihi, King Kamehameha first learned to surf. Local chiefs favored the surrounding lands because of abundant food and good surf the area produced. Ke-olo-na-hihi as a name is significant in itself, since it means “the olo of Hihi.115</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Most of the Hawaiian </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> are overgrown and obscured by tropical vegetation, much as the ancient surf culture of Hawai‘i and Polynesia is hidden from us, today. Some </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> are easy to see, like the one at Kapa‘a, on Kaua‘i. Others require solid determination by the average seeker to find and identify.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">76 Blake, 1935, p. 44. Blake misspelled Nakuina as “Nakoina.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">77 Blake, 1935, pp. 44-45.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">78 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 51.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">79 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Anthropologist</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1889, quoted in Blake, p. 48. He‘e-nalu is misspelled.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">80 Emory, Kenneth P. “Sports, Games, and Amusements,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Chapter 14, the Kamehameha Schools, Honolulu, Hawai’i, 1933, p. 149.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">81 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 51-52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">82 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 51-52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">83 Malo, David. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Antiquities</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, BP, Bishop Museum, Special Publication 2, 2nd Edition (translated by Nathaniel Emerson, 1898; First published 1903), Honolulu, Hawai‘i. See also Finney and Houston, p. 52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">84 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 52.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">85 See Gault-Williams, “Ancient Polynesian Surf Legends.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">86 Emerson, Nathaniel B. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Unwritten Literature of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, The Sacred Songs of the Hula, ©1965. Originally published by the Bureau of American Ethnology in 1909, pp. 35-37.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">87 Mahiehie – A term conferring dignity and distinction.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">88 Onulu-loa – A rolling wave of great length and endurance, one that reaches the shore, in contrast to kakala.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">89 Kakai – forty.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">90 Hoaka – A crescent; the name of the second day of the month. The allusion is to the downward curve of a large number (kakai) of malo when hung on a line, the usual way of keeping such articles.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 Malo kai – The ocean is sometimes poetically termed the malo or pa-u of the naked swimmer or surfer. It covers his nakedness.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 Ka‘ika‘i – To lead or to carry. The sun is described as leading the board.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 Halepo – Emmerson believed this to be the name of Nahie’s surfboard. A surfer he knew said it is the name given to the surf at Napoopoo, in Kona.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 Kahiki – Tahiti or any foreign country.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 Wakea – Legendary leader of the Polynesian migration. See Chapter 4: “Ancient Hawaiian Surfers.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 Ho‘ohua – Applied to a rolling wave, one that rolls on and rises in height.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">97 Opu‘u – Said of a wave that completes its run to shore.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">98 Kua-pa – Said of a wave that dies at the shore.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">99 Maka-kai – The springing-up of the surf after a period of inactivity.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">100 Kakala – Rough, heaped-up, one wave over-riding the other; choppy sea.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">101 Hiki-au – Name of a Heiau.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">102 Kuhihewa – Short for Ka-kuhi-hewa, a distinguished king of O‘ahu.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">103 O ia – Surfboard pearled; the board dug its nose towards the reef or into the sand.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">104 Emerson, Nathaniel B. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Unwritten Literature of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, The Sacred Songs of the Hula, ©1965. Originally published by the Bureau of American Ethnology in 1909, pp. 35-37. Not an exact rendition of Emerson’s translation. I’ve made some of the terms more contemporary. Note: last nine verses omitted as they do not apply to surfing.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">105 Blake, 1935, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">106 See Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">107 Bryan, E.H. “Astronomy and the Calendar,” chapter 23 of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilizations</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, A Series of Lectures Delivered at The Kamehameha Schools, Honolulu, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., ©1965. Ninth Printing, 1981, pp. 252-253.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">108 See Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">109 Emory, 1933. Quoted in Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 54 and the 1996 edition, p. 48.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">110 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 54 and in the 1996 edition, p. 48.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">111 Malo, p. 158.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">112 Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">113 Stokes, John Francis Gray. “Heiaus of Hawaii,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Worship of the Hawaii Islanders</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, compiled by William T. Brigham, first director of the Bishop Museum. Published in 1919, ©1991 by the Bishop Museum, Honolulu, pp. 67-70. Quoted in Lueras, 1984, p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">114 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 55 and the 1996 edition, p. 49. See also Lueras, 1984, p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">115 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 55 and the 1996 edition, p. 49.</span></p><br /><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-2013189167707523552022-08-26T04:46:00.006-07:002022-08-26T08:03:15.483-07:00Kapu and Classes<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this installment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series entitled: </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kapu & Classes</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ATv1pp3gJulQj_h72P2mDvqeA974lR-srcfsoNVN0okdDzYD_ywiPgxa8Xj4rKo0fJ_vsxtGNAPqiaRDIxJ1UFIdODbQWD8cw6JrmTk0uFETEyTKikQhX5VmDn56idbFQYXyX8Y5ZVUGMd1FikwP6Fe6bv8twZc6DIswDKz39JkDzwhKXdR61MWsfA/s2800/Tiki_Marquesas_Louvre_MH_87-50-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2800" data-original-width="1950" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ATv1pp3gJulQj_h72P2mDvqeA974lR-srcfsoNVN0okdDzYD_ywiPgxa8Xj4rKo0fJ_vsxtGNAPqiaRDIxJ1UFIdODbQWD8cw6JrmTk0uFETEyTKikQhX5VmDn56idbFQYXyX8Y5ZVUGMd1FikwP6Fe6bv8twZc6DIswDKz39JkDzwhKXdR61MWsfA/s320/Tiki_Marquesas_Louvre_MH_87-50-1.jpg" width="223" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A tiki from the Marquesas</span></div><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-3bc6e71a-7fff-0054-4ee9-13958b042391"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In “the old days,” lectured Dr. E. S. C. Handy, “the mass of the people were called makaainana. The word is interesting because it refers to the relationship of the people to the land. The makaainana were the people who lived on the land. Aina means land, but it has a deeper meaning because it is derived from the word meaning ‘to eat.’ The word actually means the land on which a person is born and from which he gets his living. The makaainana were the common people, the laboring masses, the cultivators of the soil, the fishermen, hunters, and craftsmen. In wartime they fought for the chief or king. Amongst themselves, their goods and their labor were shared or exchanged, but it was the right of the chief or king to require of them what he pleased, in goods or in services. Compensation for labor was, for the most part, in the form of gifts – food, cloth, mats, utensils, etc. There was no medium of exchange or money. Those who worked for the chief had their livelihood from him as compensation.”52</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Due to this relationship, the maka‘ai-nana53 were second to the ali‘i when it came to all aspects of Hawaiian society, including wave riding. It was the ali‘i, or chiefly class, that not only had the reputation but more importantly the time to dedicate to their wave riding. Their wave riding sport included three types: he‘e nalu (board surfing), holua sledding, and lele wa‘a (canoe-leaping).54</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The ali‘i were a majestic aristocracy,” wrote Finney and Houston, “generally taller, broader, and physically superior to the commoners.”55 This difference in body type between the ali‘i and the maka‘ai-nana may have come about by the settling of Hawai‘i by two separate peoples, as sung in early legends and substantiated by archaeological evidence.56 As for the ali‘i, their status as leaders within the class of chiefs depended, in part, on their strength and stamina.”57 For the ali‘i, surfing and other sports were not only recreational pastimes, they were serious training sessions to keep them fit for the physical requirements their status required.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The rulers of those people were in their chiefly position,” Duke Kahanamoku told his biographer Joe Brennan in their book </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">World of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “because of their inheritance of rank, plus their physical strength and courage. In short, they were recognized and respected for their athletic talents, so the leaders constantly trained and schooled themselves in athletic activities in order to be strong enough to maintain their positions of command. Surfing rated high on their athletic agenda, and they strove for perfection in that field.”58</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today’s common expression “taboo” is based on the Hawaiian system of kapu.59 The kapu system helped assure the ali‘i position of privilege. This system, like other laws, applied only to the maka‘ai-nana. Used in relation to surfing, it prohibited commoners from using the onini (o-NEE-nee) and owili (o-WE-lee) types of olo boards, both of which were made of wili-wili.60 According to a local from Kona who told about surfing in the earlier days to Thomas G. Thrum and translated by M. K. Nakuina, “it is well known that the olo was only for the use of chiefs; none of the common people use it.”61</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The kapu system also restricted maka‘ai-nana from surfing certain breaks that were reserved for the chiefs only. As Duke Kahanamoku put it, “the ali‘i did as they saw fit. This meant that those of royal rank surfed to their hearts’ content and developed great skill at riding the waves. The oppressed commoners had to do without... The more select surfing areas were reserved for those of royal blood. A commoner using one of the tabued beaches risked a death sentence.”62 This consequence for using ali‘i-only surfing areas was also substantiated by Hawaiian scholar David Malo.63 An example of this segregation was witnessed by William Ellis, upon seeing some ali‘i having fun surfing by a rivermouth, at the same time strictly forbidding commoners to approach.64</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This particular kapu only applied to particular breaks. For instance, Ellis also mentions ali‘i and maka‘ainana surfing together at another location and other accounts refer to an “inter-class mixing” in the ocean.65 The intricacies of the kapu system are difficult to know for sure, however, since most of what was written about it came after the abandonment of the kapu system in 1819.66 Certainly, ali‘i surfing privilege is substantiated in such Hawaiian surf legends as that of Piikoi the Rat Killer, and the designated special surf spot at Waikiki which was kapu to everyone but the Queen. In the case of Piikoi the Rat Killer, this maka‘ainana was severely beaten and nearly put to death for riding to shore on one of the Queen’s waves.67</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Another advantage that the ali‘i had over the maka‘ai-nana was personal wealth. This obviously determined the quality of wave riding gear. For example, a chief could order a team of maka‘ai-nana into the colder highlands to cut down a selected tree, usually the light weight wili-wili. After the appropriate ceremonies, the retainers brought the wood back to his ahu-pua‘a,68 or ruling realm, where the ali‘i would have a craftsman carefully custom-shape his board. Commoners had to settle for heavier wood – like koa – of their own design. For women and children of common birth, the situation might be even more basic. For instance, the Hawaiian chronicler John Papa I’i (1800-1870) recalled a scene at Lahaina, Maui, in 1812, where the “boys were surfing on the north side of Pelekane, with banana trunks for surfboards.”69</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The manner of handling and riding boards was much the same as it is today. After paddling prone past the soup70 and the breakers,71 surfers would position their boards out beyond the breaker line, sitting on their boards and waiting for a set72 to roll in. Selecting their wave of the set, they would swing again to the prone position – kipapa73 – and dig hard to catch the wave. “Gracefully, and all in one catlike motion,” described “The Father of Modern Surfing” Duke Kahanamoku, “the surfer would spring to his feet. Then, in a standing position with feet spread, he would maintain balance and direction by shifting his weight, right or left, forward or backward. Thus the board was deftly maneuvered throughout the shoreward ride.”74</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Annuals</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1896, a native Hawaiian surfer from the Kona district of the Big Island gave a detailed description of surfing in the Hawai‘i of old. This was translated by another Hawaiian surfer, M. K. Nakuina:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Breakers. The line of breakers is the place where the outer surf rises and breaks at deep sea. This is called kulana nalu. Any place nearer or closer in where the surf rises and breaks again as they sometimes do, is called the ahua.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Methods of Surfriding. The swimmer taking position at the line of breakers waits for the line of surf... the first one is allowed to pass by. It is never ridden because its front is rough. If the second comber is seen to be a good one, it is sometimes taken, but usually the third or fourth is the best, both from the regularity of its breaking and the foam calmed surface of the sea through the travel of its predecessors.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Expert Positions. Various positions used to be indulged in by experts in this aquatic sport, such as standing, kneeling and sitting. These performances could only be indulged in after the board had taken on the surf momentum and in the following manner. Placing the hands on each side of the board close to the edge, the weight of the body was thrown upon the hands, and the feet brought up quickly to the kneeling position. The sitting position is obtained in the same way, though the hands must not be removed from the board till the legs are thrown forward and the desired position is secured. From kneeling the standing position was obtained by placing both hands again on the board, and with agility, leaping up to the erect altitude, balancing the body on the swift, coursing board with outstretched arms.”75.</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">52 Handy, E.S.C. “Government And Society,” chapter 3 of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont, ©1965. Ninth printing, 1981, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">53 maka‘ai-nana, n. Commoner, populace, people in general; citizen, subject. Cf. lunamaka‘ainana. Literally, people that attend the land (PNP matakainanga). From Pukui and Elbert, Hawaiian Dictionary, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">54 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 44.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">55 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 44.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">56 See old Chapter 1, “The First Surfers.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">57 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 44.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">58 Kahanamoku, Duke with Brennan, Joe. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">World of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Grosset & Dunlap, New York, NY, ©1968, p. 21.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">59 kapu n. Meaning “prohibited.” This is where the expression “taboo” comes from.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">60 See Chapter 3, “Ancient Hawaiian Surfboards.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">61 Thrum, Thomas G. “Hawaiian Surf Riding,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Almanac and Annual</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1896. Early account of surfing as told by a Kona native and translated by M.K. Nakuina, who was also a surfer in his younger days. See Finney and Houston, 1996, Appendix E, p. 102.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">62 Kahanamoku, 1968, p. 22.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">63 Malo, David. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Antiquities</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Bishop Museum, Honolulu, Special Publications 2, 2nd Edition, Hawaiian Gazette Company, ©1951, pp. 56-57. Original translation by Nathaniel Emerson, 1898. First published in 1903.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">64 Ellis, William. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Polynesian Researches</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, volumes 1-3, published by Fisher, Son & Jackson, London, 1831.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">65 Ellis, William. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Polynesian Researches</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, volumes 1-3, published by Fisher, Son & Jackson, London, 1831.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">66 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 46.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">67 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 46. See also Gault-Williams, “Ancient Polynesian Surf Legends.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">68 Ahu-pua‘a, n. Land division usually extending from the uplands to the sea, so called because the boundary was marked by a heap (ahu) of stones surmounted by an image of a pig (pua‘a), or because a pig or other tribute was laid on the altar as tax to the chief. The landlord or owner of an ahupua‘a might be a konohiki. A konohiki was a headman under a chief. The land rights included fishing rights along the land’s border, sometimes referred to as konohiki rights. See Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">69 Lueras, 1984, p. 41. John Papa I’i (1800-1870) quoted.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">70 Soup n. The turbulent foam created by a wave’s breaking; not very suitable for surfing, and often dangerous in big surf; a mixture of air bubbles and moving water.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">71 Breaker n. Any wave that breaks on its way to the beach.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">72 Set n., A series of waves – 2, 3 or 4 in a row – generally arriving at regularly spaced intervals.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">73 Kipapa has several meanings in the Hawaiian language. Relative to surfing it means the prone position on a surfboard or to assume such position. See Pukui and Elbert, 1986.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">74 Kahanamoku, 1968, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">75 </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Annuals</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1896. See also Blake, pp. 46-47. Ku-lana nalu, n. Place where the waves swell up and the surf rider starts paddling and racing the wave, usually at the most distant line of breakers. Also kulana he‘enalu. Ahua, to swell, as a wave; heap, mound, hillock, knoll, pile; heaped, bumped; tremendous. See Pukui and Elbert, 1986. Comber, n. A long, curling wave. See Cralle, 1991.</span></p><div><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-70797933271042473702022-08-11T01:20:00.001-07:002022-08-26T04:50:44.100-07:00Traditional Hawaiian Spots & Breaks<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this installment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditional Hawaiian Surf Spots and Breaks</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4tctrCMvssJv4YjSSXM-w801_d9gwTjY645MgvBvLKeZEJouj49o3wHV4PlA0_1ha4HJslFudtqQ8MorbvVoZ7yjFUa-bKCBydnoA2lftd_IkKNW6Dnbx8r4AwWn1kPEI61DOOK3ssmnIywT5vPJmQ3wvweTXPqJ1ZdpWRm7ZU-9S8jggBqDUoxkVpw/s1131/oahu-maui-spots.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1131" data-original-width="749" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4tctrCMvssJv4YjSSXM-w801_d9gwTjY645MgvBvLKeZEJouj49o3wHV4PlA0_1ha4HJslFudtqQ8MorbvVoZ7yjFUa-bKCBydnoA2lftd_IkKNW6Dnbx8r4AwWn1kPEI61DOOK3ssmnIywT5vPJmQ3wvweTXPqJ1ZdpWRm7ZU-9S8jggBqDUoxkVpw/s320/oahu-maui-spots.JPG" width="212" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81I_w6E5iEGDezvFEMnXpS4AoNVo9XkM0gpON3n-w3FJTEPiyoTVJDinPsB-kk3Tew3ZmfmuIoUzZJs4sJVC_d5Ldpm-PbhtWV3_3PQJhlOd-kIUHUSC9PrR6g1h-7RiDkHjLRK_DidUBSyYuV3XMcKtxey9EA7Hpi6kUm4gXBfrotyAV-LdDSaxJnQ/s1083/kauai-molokai-nihau-spots.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1083" data-original-width="694" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81I_w6E5iEGDezvFEMnXpS4AoNVo9XkM0gpON3n-w3FJTEPiyoTVJDinPsB-kk3Tew3ZmfmuIoUzZJs4sJVC_d5Ldpm-PbhtWV3_3PQJhlOd-kIUHUSC9PrR6g1h-7RiDkHjLRK_DidUBSyYuV3XMcKtxey9EA7Hpi6kUm4gXBfrotyAV-LdDSaxJnQ/s320/kauai-molokai-nihau-spots.JPG" width="205" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Maps courtesy pf Finney and Houston's "History of Surfing"</span></div><br /><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-823ed39a-7fff-853c-70bf-49b7cd7c0d3a"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Village-wide surfing was a frequent sight, especially when a swell hit. Due to climate, means of livelihood and a general dependence on the ocean, nearly all Hawaiian villages were near warm, palm-laden coasts. Thus, ancient and pre-European contact Hawaiian surf spots were mostly near coastal villages and well populated areas.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The best and most popular surfing locations on each island were known by name. Dozens of surf spots and individual breaks are remembered in Old Hawaiian stories and songs and on every island in the chain. Early sources revealed 50 individual breaks off the big island of Hawai‘i alone.16 For the other six inhabited islands, 57 more locations once used in ancient Hawai‘i have been identified, making a total of 107 surfing areas. Specifically, in addition to the 57 on Hawai‘i, there were 17 on O‘ahu; 19 on Maui; 16 on Kaua‘i; 3 on Ni‘ihau; 1 on Molokai; and 1 on Lanai.17</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The writings of Nineteenth Century Hawaiian historians John Papa I‘i and Samuel Manaiakalani Kamakau are our major sources for identifying these ancient Hawaiian surf breaks.18 A modern tabulation was made by Ben R. Finney, who credits the Twentieth Century author and translator Mary Kawena Pukui with significant help. At one point, she gave Finney and his co-author James Houston “a stack of file cards on which she had written the names of surfing places that she had run across during her decades of translating and interpreting Hawaiian oral traditions and newspaper articles from the nineteenth century.”19</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The tabulation of pre-European Hawaiian surf spots, listed here, gives the modern geographical location name, if there is one, followed by the traditional place names, followed by the spot’s literal translation. Particular areas sometimes contained more than one break and these are indicated. By noting the number of the break, one can find its approximate location on the attached maps. Last but not least, in addition to the known breaks, there are 19 more surf spots named in legends, but have not been located to date. These are listed here, but not marked on the maps:</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaii</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Na‘ohaku – Ku‘moho, “to rise (as water)”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. East of Kauhola Point – Hale-lua, “pit house”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3. Wai-manu, “bird water”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4. Wai-pi‘o, “curved water”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5. Lau-pahoehoe, “smooth lava flat”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6. Papa‘i-kou, “hut (in a) kou (grove)”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7. Kapo‘ai, “to rotate or revolve” (as in a hula)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8. Pu‘u‘eo – Pa‘ula, “red enclosure”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9. Hilo Bay20</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9a. Off Mokuola (aka Coconut Island) – Ahua, “heap”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9b. Next to Kaipalaoa – Huia, “a type of high wave formed when two crests meet”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9c. Kai-palaoa, “whale sea”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9d. Near Ha‘aheo – Ka-hala-‘ia, “the sin of eating forbidden fish or meat”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9e. Near Waiakea – Ka-nuku-o-ka-manu, “the beak of the bird”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9f. Kawili, “to mix, blend, intertwine”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9g. Pi‘ihonua, “land incline”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10. Ke‘eau21 – Ka-loa-o-ka-‘oma, “the length of the ocean” </span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11. Kai-mu – “gathering (at the) sea (to watch surfing)”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11a. Ho-eu, mischief“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11b. Ka-poho, the depression“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12. Kala-pana</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12a. A’ili, to struggle for breath, to pull“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12b. Ka-lehua, the expert“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">13. Puna-lu’u – Kawa, „distance“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14 Ka-alu’alu Bay</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14a. Pai-a-ha‘a, “lift and sway (of waves)”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14b. Kua‘ana, “big brother” (the outside surf for adults)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14c. Kaina, “little brother” (the inside surf for children)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">15. East of Ka-lae (South Point) – Ka-pu‘u-one, “the sand hill”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">16. Ke’ei</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17. Napo’opo’o</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17a. Ka-pahu-kapu, the tabu drum“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17b. Kapukapu, “regal appearance”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17c. Kukui, “candlenut tree, torch”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">18. Ke-ala-ke-kua, Hiki-au, “moving current”22</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19. He‘eia Bay, Kona – Ke-au-hou</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19a. Ka-lapu, “the ghost”23</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19b. Kaulu, ledge“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20. Kaha-lu’u</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20a. Ka-lei-kini, “the many leis”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20b. Kapu‘a, “the whistle”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21. Ke-olo-na-hihi</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21a. Ka-moa, “the chicken”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21b. Kawa, “distance”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21c. Pu‘u, “peak”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22. Kai-lua, Kona</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22a. ‘Au-hau-kea-e</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22b. Huiha24</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22c. Ka-maka i‘a, “the fish eye”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22d. Ki‘i-kau, “placed image”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22e. Na‘ohule-‘elua, “the two bald heads”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">23. Honokahau, “bay tossing dew”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">24. Mahai‘ula – Ka-hale-‘ula, “the red house”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">25. Kawaihae – Ka-pua-‘ilima, “the ‘ilima flower”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">26. Honoipu – Pua-kea, “white blossom”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not Located:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">27. Kohala – Ho‘olana, “to cause to float”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28. Puna</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28a. ‘Awili, “swirl”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28b. Ka-lalani, “the row”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28c. Kala-loa, “very rough”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">O’ahu</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Wai-kiki25</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1a. ‘Ai-wohi, “royal ruler”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1b. Ka-lehua-wehe, “the removed lehua (lei)”26</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1c. Ka-pua, “the flower”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1d. Ka-puni, “the surrounding”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1e. Mai-hiwa</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. Hono-lulu</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2a. ‘Ula-kua, “back red”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2b. Ke-kai-o-Mamala, “the sea of Mamala”27</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2c. Awa-lua, “double harbor”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3. Moku-le‘ia – Pekue</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4. Wai-a-lua – Pua-‘ena, “issue hot”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5. Waimea River mouth – Wai-mea, “reddish water”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6. Sunset Beach, Pau-malu Bay – Pau-malu, “taken secretly”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not Located:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7. Wai-a-lua</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7a. Ka-papala, “the crest”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7b. Ka-ua-nui, “the big rain”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8. Wai-‘anae</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8a. Ka-pae-kahi, “the single landing”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8b. Kuala-i-ka-po-iki, “tumbling in the small night”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9. Ka-‘ihu-wa‘a, “the nose (of the) canoe”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Maui</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Wai-he’e</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1a. Ka-haha-wai, “the broken rivulets”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1b. Pala‘ie, “inconstant”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1c. Popo‘ie, “vine cluster”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. Wai-ehu</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2a. ‘A‘awa, “wrasse fish”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2b. Niu-ku-kahi, “coconut palm standing alone”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3. Wai-luku</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3a. Ka‘ahu, “the garment”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3b. Ka‘akau-pohaku, “the north (or right hand side) stone”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3c. Ka-leholeho, “the callus”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3d. Pauku-kalo, “taro piece”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4. Hana Bay</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4a. Ke-‘anini, “the stunted”28</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4b. Pu-hele (Pu‘u-hele), “traveling hill”29</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5. Kau-po – Moku-lau, “many islets”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6. La-haina</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6a. ‘A‘aka, “roiled”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6b. Hau-ola, “dew (of) life”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6c. ‘Uha-‘ilio, “dog’s hindquarters”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6d. ‘Uo30</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not Located:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7. Hana (either bay or district) Ka-pua‘i, “the flow (of water)”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8. La-haina</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8a. Hale-lua, “pit house”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8b. Ka-lehua, “the expert”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kaua’i</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Anahola – Ka-naha-wale, “easily broken”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. Kapa‘a</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2a. Ka-maka-iwa, “the mother-of-pearl eyes”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2b. Po‘o, “head”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2c. Ko‘a-lua, “two coral heads”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3. Wai-lua</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3a. Maka-iwa, “mother-of-pearl eyes”31</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3b. Ka-‘o-hala, “the thrust passing”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4. Hana-pe-pe, “crushed bay” (due to land slides)</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5. Wai-mea</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5a. Kaua, „war“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5b. Kua-lua, “twice”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5c. Po‘o, “head”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not Located:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6. Hana-lei District</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6a. Hawai‘i-loa, “long (or distant) Hawai‘i”32</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6b. Ho‘ope‘a, “to cross”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6c. Ku-a-kahi-unu, “standing like a fishing shrine”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6d. Makawa</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6e. Pu‘u-lena, “yellow hill”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7. Wai-‘oli – Mana-lau, “many branches”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Moloka’i</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Ka-laupapa – Pua‘o, “onslaught of dashing waves”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ni’ihau</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Ka-malino – Lana, “floating”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2. Pu‘uwai – ‘Ohi‘a, “‘ohi‘a tree”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3. Ka-unu-nui, “the large altar”</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lana’i</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not Located:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1. Hilole33</span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Famous Hawaiian Breaks</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Of the many ancient surf spots scattered throughout the Hawaiian Islands, some were more famous than others:</span></p><br /><h3 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 14pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ka-lehua-wehe</span></h3><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By the early 1900s, the location of Ka-lehue-wehe,34 off Waikiki beach, was only known “to but a few old-timers today,” wrote 20th Century surf pioneer Tom Blake.35 In his book </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Blake wrote that Kala means “proclaiming or announcing” and hue means “calabash.” Wehe means “loosened, opened or over-flowing.”36 Blake wrote that “the earth around the ocean was likened to a great calabash by the old Hawaiians.” His translation for Kalahuewehe was: “proclaiming the over-flowing or opening of the big calabash.” In other words, announcing that the sea is loosened and big waves are running at Waikiki.37</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian oral traditions have another interpretation of the word that is probably closer to the mark. Ka-lehua-wehe is translated as “the removed lehua.” This action, applied to this break was inspired by a certain instance when the surfer Piikoi, who was riding there, later removed his lei made from lehua blossoms and presented it to a chieftess who was also riding there.38 The reason why it was a big deal was due to the rider’s being a commoner. His act was a bold one, as it was not within his place to approach a member of the ali‘i.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kalehuawehe – Waikiki’s biggest break and furthest from shore – later became known as Outside Castle’s in the 1920s and 1930s. This is the name that remains, today. A few times a year, more or less around summertime, big south swells roll into O‘ahu’s south shore. These swells – called “Bluebirds” by the old timers – roll in to provide rides that can sometimes be taken all the way to the beach. A ride on a twenty-to-thirty-foot wave from Kalehuawehe – or Outside Castles – was considered the ultimate experience by Waikiki-area surfers of the early Twentieth Century.39</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the 1930s, Duke Kahanamoku gave more details about Kalehuawehe’s location to Tom Blake. When Duke was still just a boy, Duke remembered his mother telling him Kalahuewehe was the big surf outside Queen’s break. “This,” Blake generalized, amounted to the surfing area that comprises “Cunha break, Papa Nui or outside Cunha, Public Baths and Castle’s break.” This outside area of larger surf was where “the ancient chiefs gathered from all the countryside to ride when the Kalahuewehe was running.” Blake added: “Without hesitation Duke’s old mother told me the same story. Dad Center, Dudie Miller and [John D.] Kaupiko substantiated the location of this surf.”40</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early 1900s surfer Lukela “John D.” Kaupiko also told Blake about how one of the kings of O‘ahu who had his men paddle him out to the bigger breaks in an outrigger canoe. Once out beyond the breakers, the king would launch his board – undoubtedly an olo make one long ride, and then quit for the day.41</span></p><br /><h3 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 14pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ke-kai-o-mamala</span></h3><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Several miles along the coast from Waikiki, going west, toward what is now Honolulu harbor, there was once a break called Ke-kai-o-Mamala, or, “the Sea of Mamala.” It broke through a narrow entrance to what in ancient times must have been low-lying marshland. It is possible that Ke-kai-o-Mamala was located in the area near what is now known as Ala Moana, Rock Pile, Inbetweens or Kaisers. These contemporary surf spots are popular breaks at the mouth of the harbor channel, just east of Magic Island.42 Because of the harbor, Ke-kai-o-Mamala must have been the first surf break to suffer at the hands of human engineering.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In Old Hawaiian days, Ke-kai-o-Mamala broke straight out from a beautiful coconut grove called Honoka‘upu. The break was one of the best in all of Kou, the old time name for the Honolulu area. Ke-kai-o-Mamala was named after Mamala, a famous surfer and a pominent O‘ahu chiefess. She was kupua, a demigod or hero with supernatural powers who could take the form of a beautiful woman, a gigantic lizard, or a great shark. According to legend, she was first married to another kupua, the shark-man Ouha; but then Honoka‘upu, who owned the coconut grove, chose her to be his wife, and so – for whatever reason – Mamala left Ouha for Honoka‘upu. Mad at Mamala for this dissertion and ridiculed by other women in his attempts to regain his former wife, Ouha cast off his human form and became the great shark god of the coast between Waikiki and Koko Head. Beautiful Mamala was remembered afterward by the surf spot named for her and in a song about her triangular love affair called the Mele (song) of Honoka‘upu.”43 This song, in part goes like this:</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surf rises at Ko‘olau,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blowing the waves into mist,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Into little drops,</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Spray falling along the hidden harbor.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is my dear husband Ouha,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is the shaking sea, the running sea of Kou,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The crab-like sea of Kou...</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">My love has gone away...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fine is the breeze from the mountain.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I wait for you to return...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Will the lover return?</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I belong to Honoka‘upu,</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the top of the tossing surf waves...44</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mamala “often played konane,” wrote Mary Kawena Pukui in her </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Place Names of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. “She left her shark husband, ‘Ouha, for Honoka‘upu. ‘Ouha then became the shark god of Wai-kiki and of Koko Head.”45</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The ocean off O‘ahu’s south shore is still called “The Sea of Mamala.”</span></p><br /><h3 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 14pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Paumalu</span></h3><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Forty miles from Ke-kai-o-Mamala, on the North Shore of O’ahu, Paumalu was known for its big waves, just as it is known, today, by the different name of “Sunset Beach.”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the Hawai‘i of long ago, Sunset Beach was called Paumalu, which means “taken secretly.” This reference came from an incident when a local woman, who had caught more octopus than was permitted, had her legs bitten off by a shark,46 presumably as punishment.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Paumalu figures prominently in another legend, when a prince from Kaua‘i named Kahikilani crossed the hundred miles of open sea between his home and O‘ahu just to prove his prowess in the famous surf of Paumalu.47</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“As soon as he arrived he started surfing,” wrote Finney and Houston in a re-telling of an ancient mele. “Day after day he perfected his skill in the jawlike waves. As he rode he was watched by a bird maiden with supernatural powers who lived in a cave on a nearby mountain. She fell in love with the prince and sent bird messengers to place an orange lehua lei around his neck and bring him to her. By flying around his head, the messengers guided Kahikilani to the bird maiden’s cave. Enchanted, he spent several months with her – until the return of the surfing season. Then the distant sizzle and boom of the waves at Paumalu were too much for Kahikilani to resist, and he left the maiden, but only after promising never to kiss another woman. However, the excitement of the rising surf must have clouded his memory because almost as soon as he was riding again, a beautiful woman came walking along the white sand. She saw him there, waited until he rode to shore, placed an ilima lei around his neck, and kissed him. His vow was broken. He thought nothing of it and paddled back out to the breaking waves, but the bird messengers were watching. They flew to tell their mistress of his infidelity. When she heard their report, the bird maiden ran to the beach with a lehua lei in her hand. Snatching the ilima lei from Kahikilani’s neck, she replaced it with the one made from lehua blossoms. As she ran back to her cave, he chased her. That was the last Kahikilani saw of the bird maiden, though, for halfway up the mountain he was turned to stone.”48</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The image of Kahikilani can still be seen, today, with a petrified lehua lei around his neck on a barren ridge above Paumalu Bay, less than a mile from the Kamehameha Highway. In modern times, this rock outcropping is more commonly known as “the George Washington Stone.49</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfers then, like surfers now, were apparently familiar with the cost of faithless love. In this legend, too, is revealed the conflict every surfer feels sooner or later and not once but many times. That is, the choice one makes between spending time riding waves vs. time spent in the company of others.</span></p><br /><h3 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 14pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kona Coast</span></h3><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In contrast to today, where the Hawaiian Islands’ center of surfing mostly stretches 7 coastal miles along O‘ahu’s North Shore, in the Hawai‘i of old, surfing’s epicenter was along the Kona Coast on the big island of Hawai‘i. When the first Europeans arrived, this particular section of coast was also the major population center for the entire island chain, so that probably had more to do with it than the quality of the surf. Together with the Waikiki area of O‘ahu, the Kona Coast was the most heavily surfed of all Hawaiian surfing locations. It was while at Kona that William Ellis wrote his numerous observations of Hawaiian surfing. It was also at Kona where King Kamehameha I learned to ride a surfboard. Last but not least, it was surfing at Kealahehua Bay on the Kona Coast that so impressed Cook’s Lieutenant James King in 1779:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“If by mistake they should place themselves on one of the smaller waves, which breaks before they reach the land, or should not be able to keep their plank in a proper direction on the top of the swell, they are left exposed to the fury of the next, and, to avoid it, are obliged again to dive and regain their place, from which they set out. Those who succeed in their object of reaching shore, have still the greatest danger to encounter. The coast being guarded by a chain of rocks, with, here and there, a small opening between them, they are obliged to steer their boards through one of these, or, in case of failure, to quit it, before they reach the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, make the best of their way back again. This is reckoned very disgraceful, and is also attended with the loss of the board, which I have often seen, with great horror, dashed to pieces, at the very moment the islander quitted it.”50</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Remember, now,” wrote 1960s surfing legend Phil Edwards in his own inimitable style, “Surfers of ancient Hawaii were tall, godlike creatures, each one looking like he had been hand-dipped in gold plate; they wore loincloths if the mood struck them – or they surfed buff more often than not. (And to think that, years later, the ho-dads and gremmies of early California surfing used to drop their pants. It was an older custom than they knew.)</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“While Cook and crew were still mapping Hawaii,” continued Edwards, “the natives knew where the good spots were. On Oahu, the surf came with the north swells, from October to January, and the south swells from June through October.”51</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 Muirhead, Desmond. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing In Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, A Personal Memoir, “With Notes on California, Australia, Peru and Other Surfing Countries,” Northland Press, Flagstaff, Arizona, ©1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 Muirhead, 1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3 Muirhead, 1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4 Duck Diving v. Where the surfer pushes down on the front of the nose of the board to dive under a breaking or broken wave (JP); a method of diving with the board under an oncoming wave on the way out through the break (NAT, 1985).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 Young, Nat. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">History of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Palm Beach Press, 40 Ocean Road, Palm Beach, N.S.W. 2108, Australia, ©1983, p. 31. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 36-37 and Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 32.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, C. E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont, ©1966, p. 35. See also Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7 Lueras, Leonard. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Ultimate Pleasure</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Workman Publishing, New York, NY, ©1984, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8 Keauokalani, Kepelino (1830-1878). </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Quoted in Lueras, 1984, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9 Finney, Ben and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Pomegranate Artbooks, Rohnert Park, California, ©1996, p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10 Byron, Captain, the Rt. Hon. Lord. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Voyage of HMS Blonde to The Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1824-25, London, published in 1826, p. 97. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 35. In the Britain of the 1800s, a cabriolet was a light, two-wheeled, hooded, one-horse carriage. The term was later adopted for use in describing early automobiles resembling convertible coupes.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11 Stewart, C. S. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A Residence in the Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Boston, published 1839, p. 196. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12 Emory, Kenneth P. “Sports, Games, and Amusements,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont, ©1965. Ninth printing, 1981, p. 149.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">13 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 35-36.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 35-36.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">15 Edwards, Phil and Ottum, Bob. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You Should Have Been Here An Hour Ago: The Stoked Side of Surfing; Or, How to Hang Ten Through Life and Stay Happy</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Harper and Row, ©1967, p. 165.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">16 Finney and Houston, 1996, pp. 28-29. The maps are excellent and the most authoritative source on ancient Hawaiian surf breaks. See also pp. 30-31 for the other major Hawaiian Islands.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 24-30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">18 I‘i, John Papa. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Fragments of Hawaiian History</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, translated by Mary Kawena Pukui, edited by Dorothy B. Barrer, ©1959, Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu, Hawai‘i.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 28.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20 Punahoa’s favorite spot. Punahoa was a chieftess during the time of Hiikaikapolo.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21 Favorite of Laieikawai and Halaaniani, Hiiakaikapoli and Hopoe.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22 Opposite the heiau of the same name, where Captain Cook was received as a personification of the god Lono.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">23 Favorite of Kauikeouli (Kamehameha III) and sister, princess Nahieanena; their birthplace.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">24 Favorite of many chiefs; opposite the present-day Kona Inn.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">25 “Although Waikiki literally means ‘spouting water,’” wrote Finney and Houston, “it actually refers to the fresh water (wai) in the swamps behind the famous beach, not to the sea water (kai) of the surf offshore.” See notation in Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">26 Ka-lehua-wehe “used to be the attraction for the congregating together for days of neighboring chiefs,” wrote Tom Blake, in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1935, p. 14.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">27 Mamala was a chieftess, prominently noted in Hawaiian oral history.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28 Favorite of early chiefs. See Finney and Houston, 1966.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">29 Favorite of early chiefs. See Finney and Houston, 1966.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">30 Favorite of early chiefs. See Finney and Houston, 1966.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">31 Blake has it at Kapa‘a. See p. 14 of </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1935. See also Gault-Williams, “Mo‘ikeha at Maka‘iwa,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kauai magazine</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Spring 1995, H & S Publishing, Kapa‘a, Kaua‘i. Mo‘ikeha’s favorite spot.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">32 Not refering to the Big Island, but rather Hawaiki or the birthplace of Hawai‘iloa the great navigator.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">33 Most all notations are based on information in Finney & Houston, 1966 and 1996, and Blake, 1935.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">34 Blake spelled it “Kalahuewehe.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">35 Blake, Thomas E. (1902-1994). </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfriders</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> 1935, ©1983, Mountain and Sea, Redondo Beach, California. Reprinted by permission. Formerly, </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1935, by Paradise of the Pacific Press, Honolulu, Hawaii, p. 15.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">36 Calabash n. A large, hard-shelled gourd often used as a utensil.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">37 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 15.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">38 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">39 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">40 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 15. Kalehuawehe is the correct spelling, while Blake spelled it with triple-e’s. Also, John D. Kaupiko’s last name is spelled “Kaupiku” in the original.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">41 Blake, 1935, 1983, p. 15.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">42 Wright, Bank. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1973, 1985 by Allan Bank Wright, jr. Mountain and Sea Publishing, Redondo Beach, California, pp. 16-17.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">43 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 33 & 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">44 Westervelt, 1915, p. 52-54. See also Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">45 Pukui, Mary Kawena, Elbert, Samuel H. and Mookini, Esther T. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Place Names of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1974, The University of Hawai‘i Press, Honolulu, Hawai‘i, p. 144. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 39 and Westervelt, 1964b: 15, 52-54.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">46 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">47 Taylor, 1953, p. 20. See also Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">48 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">49 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 35. Footnote.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">50 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 37. See also Young, 1983, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">51 Edwards and Ottum, 1967, p. 164.</span></p><br /><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-73774227749029626802022-08-05T03:10:00.001-07:002022-08-26T04:57:06.814-07:00Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surf Culture</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> in the Hawaiian Islands prior to European contact.</span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-7590bea2-7fff-4ebb-3244-0d44af4754cd"><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RqzHguez9Tx_lB1uHo_tWgKOab3f3ZaTNa2lXVfQEX4fmNSKAlQDfxk40I7ONjwFAeFhcOz8KtY1WKeTZe997us-zQhmsXGz4Ap4xPb_67E3Ur2LuaPz9OjjDn_5pA7u_DiXPV5PYAiZU6J1uRJlyotVPY-QnvqANdfT14Hk56w4ZF9iWFWdHjAuNA/s1443/lsvillage.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1443" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9RqzHguez9Tx_lB1uHo_tWgKOab3f3ZaTNa2lXVfQEX4fmNSKAlQDfxk40I7ONjwFAeFhcOz8KtY1WKeTZe997us-zQhmsXGz4Ap4xPb_67E3Ur2LuaPz9OjjDn_5pA7u_DiXPV5PYAiZU6J1uRJlyotVPY-QnvqANdfT14Hk56w4ZF9iWFWdHjAuNA/s320/lsvillage.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He‘e nalu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Hay-ay na-loo) – board surfing – and </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">kaha nalu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (ka-ha na-loo) – body surfing – were woven into every aspect of Hawaiian life.1 Indeed, sports and dancing had a high priority for the Hawaiian people before Europeans landed upon their shores in the late 1700s. Like most all other Polynesians, the Hawaiians took time to enjoy their lives. When it came to the ocean, men, women and children, chiefs and commoners alike spent much of their time in the water. As for surfing, nearly every Hawaiian, rich or poor, young or old, owned a surfboard of varied sizes. Surf competitions and water festivals were common and there was widespread wagering on their outcome. More than any other Polynesian people, the Hawaiians were the great gamblers of the Polynesian Triangle. During a surfing match, in an impulsive moment, a man could sometimes bet his entire worldly possessions. If he lost, he might then go on to bet his “body or his bones and thus chance losing his life or his liberty” at the hands of or in service to the winner.2</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The surfing beaches upon which they played provided a staging ground for their ocean sports and “also provided a meeting place for the different sexes,” wrote Desmond Muirhead, in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing In Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. “The Hawaiians [of old] were ever renowned for their lack of inhibitions, and sexual freedom was taken for granted. In the early days relations between the sexes had no serious consequences, and it was not until the white man brought his dreaded diseases to the Islands that difficulties arose. Children were never a problem – all Hawaiians loved children extravagantly, and there was no such word as orphan in the Hawaiian language. It was not conceivable that a Hawaiian child should be without a home.”3</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first outsiders to witness surfing and later write about it were the crewmembers on the Cook expeditions of the late 1700s. These Europeans first viewed surfing in Tahiti, then on the Hawaiian Islands of Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i. Wave riding made a definite impression on them. As an example, after British Captain James Cook sailed into the Kona Coast’s Kealakekua (Ke-ala-ke-kua) Bay, in 1779, Cook’s Lieutenant James King was particularly impressed with duck diving off the island of Hawai‘i:4</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The surf, which breaks on the coast around the bay,” wrote King, “extends to the distance of about 150 yards from the shore, within which space the surges of the sea, accumulating from the shallowness of the water, are dashed against the beach with prodigious violence. Whenever, from stormy weather or any extraordinary swell at sea the impetuosity of the surf is increased to its utmost height, they choose this time for this amusement... Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking each a long narrow board, rounded at the ends, set out together from the shore. The first wave they meet they plunge under, and suffering it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and make the best of their way by swimming out into sea. The second wave is encountered in the same manner as the first; the great difficulty consisting in seizing the proper moment of diving underneath it, which, if missed, the person is caught by the surf and driven back again with great violence, and all his dexterity is then required to prevent himself being dashed against the rocks.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“As soon as they have gained by these repeated efforts, the smooth water beyond the surf, they lay themselves at length on their boards and prepare for their return. As the surf consists of a number of waves, of which every third is remarked to be always much larger than the others, and to flow higher on the shore... their first object is to place themselves on the summit of the largest surge, by which they are driven along with amazing rapidity toward the shore...”5</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As “a part of the fabled Hawaiian way of life of pre-European times,” wrote Ben Finney and James Houston in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, the Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “surfing was more than just catching and riding an ocean wave. It was the center of a circle of social and ritual activities that began with the very selection of the tree from which a board was carved, and could end in the premature death of a chief.”6</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing was such an important part of the Hawaiian culture that it played an integral part of Hawaiians’ daily life and seasonal observances. For instance, in </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 19th Century Hawaiian scholar Kepelino Keauokalani (1830-1878) told of surfing before the sun came up and, particularly, what began in ‘Ikuwa – November, the month named in honor of the “deafening” winds, storms and waves that begin the winter season. It was at this time of the year that Hawaiians became particularly </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">hopupu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – what we surfers call stoked:7</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“It is a month of rough seas,” recalled Keauokalani, “and high surf that lure men to the sea coast. For expert surfers going upland to farm, if part way up perhaps they look back and see the rollers combing the beach, will leave their work, pluck ripe banana leaves, ti leaves and ginger, strip them, fasten them about their necks and stand facing the sea and holding sugar-cane in their hand, then, hurrying away home, they will pick up the board and go. All thought of work is at an end, only that of sport is left. The wife may go hungry, the children, the whole family, but the head of the house does not care. He is all for sport, that is his food. All day there is nothing but surfing. Many go out surfing as early as four in the morning – men, women, children.”8</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early European writers observed the popularity, stoke and oftentimes-passionate dedication with which Hawaiians treated their surfing. The European newcomers had the dubious distinction of being the first documented </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">haoles</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (non-Hawaiians), but were observant enough to refer to surf riding as “a national pastime,” “a most prominent and popular pastime,” or “a favorite amusement.”9</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the early 1820s, the British ship </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Blonde</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> stopped in Hawai‘i – what the British had earlier named the “Sandwich Islands” – and her commander Lord Byron – cousin of the poet – noted, “to have a neat floatboard, well-kept, and dried, is to a Sandwich Islander what a tilbury or cabriolet, or whatever light carriage may be in fashion is to a young English man.”10</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1823, the missionary C. S. Stewart observed that on Maui the surfboard was “an article of personal property among all the chiefs, male and female, and among many of the common people.”11 Noted scholar Kenneth Emory confirmed the care that was taken towards board maintenance: “After use, those who cared for their boards dried them thoroughly, then oiled them, wrapped them in cloth, and suspended them in the house.”12</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">C. S. Stewart wrote that big surf was most desired and that large numbers of Hawaiians surfed under those conditions. After a particularly large swell hit the Lahaina coast, off Maui, the larger surf provided “A fine opportunity to the islanders for the enjoyment of their favorite sport of the surfboard. It is a daily amusement at all times, but the more terrific the surf, the more delightful the pastime to those skillful in the management of the boards... hundreds at a time have been occupied in this way for hours together.”13</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">William Ellis, the missionary who hiked around the big island of Hawai‘i, described local mass-reaction to a big swell that hit, unexpectedly: “the thatch houses of a whole village stood empty... daily tasks such as farming, fishing and tapa-making were left undone while an entire community – men, women and children – enjoyed themselves in the rising surf and rushing white water.”14</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The natural tendency of the Hawaiian people to just go out and play in the surf, subject to the beckon of the ocean swells, was mostly looked down upon by the Europeans that came to the Islands in the late 1700s and 1800s. Phil Edwards, champion surfer and stylist of the 1960s, in his book </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You Should Have Been Here An Hour Ago: The Stoked Side of Surfing; Or, How to Hang Ten Through Life and Stay Happy</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1967, pointed out that this aspect of surfing has not changed for centuries and then mocked: “Disgraceful. But that is surfing, missionary brethren, and the urge still runs strong today to drop everything and head out into the water. Unhappily, not all us modern tapa makers... can do it. Civilization has forced a certain discipline on us and we bow with responsibilities. (Still, I occasionally yield to the urge when things get tough; stalk out of the shop and go down to Wayne’s house, pick up my board and stamp out into the water. The pressures of the day are suddenly eased. And if someone should approach me in one of my transitory moods and say, ‘What are you doing out here, Edwards?’ I can always say, ‘I’m designing a new surfboard. What the hell do you think I am doing?’)”15</span></p><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 Muirhead, Desmond. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing In Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, A Personal Memoir, “With Notes on California, Australia, Peru and Other Surfing Countries,” Northland Press, Flagstaff, Arizona, ©1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 Muirhead, 1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3 Muirhead, 1962, p. 2.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4 Duck Diving v. Where the surfer pushes down on the front of the nose of the board to dive under a breaking or broken wave (JP); a method of diving with the board under an oncoming wave on the way out through the break (NAT, 1985).</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 Young, Nat. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">History of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Palm Beach Press, 40 Ocean Road, Palm Beach, N.S.W. 2108, Australia, ©1983, p. 31. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 36-37 and Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 32.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, C. E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont, ©1966, p. 35. See also Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7 Lueras, Leonard. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Ultimate Pleasure</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Workman Publishing, New York, NY, ©1984, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8 Keauokalani, Kepelino (1830-1878). </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Traditions of Hawaii</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. Quoted in Lueras, 1984, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9 Finney, Ben and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Pomegranate Artbooks, Rohnert Park, California, ©1996, p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10 Byron, Captain, the Rt. Hon. Lord. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Voyage of HMS Blonde to The Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1824-25, London, published in 1826, p. 97. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 35. In the Britain of the 1800s, a cabriolet was a light, two-wheeled, hooded, one-horse carriage. The term was later adopted for use in describing early automobiles resembling convertible coupes.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11 Stewart, C. S. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A Residence in the Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Boston, published 1839, p. 196. See also Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 35.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12 Emory, Kenneth P. “Sports, Games, and Amusements,” </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont, ©1965. Ninth printing, 1981, p. 149.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">13 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 35-36.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14 Finney and Houston, 1966, pp. 35-36.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">15 Edwards, Phil and Ottum, Bob. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You Should Have Been Here An Hour Ago: The Stoked Side of Surfing; Or, How to Hang Ten Through Life and Stay Happy</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Harper and Row, ©1967, p. 165.</span></p><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-25908967901052388302022-07-31T04:36:00.002-07:002022-08-26T04:52:17.366-07:00He'e Nalu<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He’e Nalu</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – “wave sliding” or what we call “surfing” – as it was in early Hawaii.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzEgkbWptNx-ijEkiffHOvaRdszl3q6vxKVJwTkEOONC1TMcxQdT0dSyPL70sqqOHfTMcBvgZ7PJL0jdk1k_KdC81OF28fqKwer_DwrduZx8EyQ0i7KTD_3oxafNC0yvJ8oD6FCCb4y_g9lo1QS3H3uRzV9j5Gp2c5gHf2pK5sjFK-jezqwVAFwR5TA/s600/PET1.GIF" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="511" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzEgkbWptNx-ijEkiffHOvaRdszl3q6vxKVJwTkEOONC1TMcxQdT0dSyPL70sqqOHfTMcBvgZ7PJL0jdk1k_KdC81OF28fqKwer_DwrduZx8EyQ0i7KTD_3oxafNC0yvJ8oD6FCCb4y_g9lo1QS3H3uRzV9j5Gp2c5gHf2pK5sjFK-jezqwVAFwR5TA/s320/PET1.GIF" width="273" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Hawaiian petroglyph</div><br /><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-d696aa35-7fff-5b1c-3602-75bce90e15ed"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Riding ocean waves probably began with Austronesians who rode the waves of the open ocean in craft that kept them afloat. In the Pacific Ocean, it was the outrigger and double-hulled canoe that bore these mariners. That surfing stems from a distinct nautically-based culture with a legend-filled history of outstanding watermen is undeniable. The first surfers who rode on wooden boards were watermen who must have initially became noted for their finesse with outrigger and double hulled canoes before taking to mere slabs of wood. Very possibly, the island fishermen who first envisioned a more recreational use for waves, first used them as the fastest means for getting their canoes over the coral reefs and on to the beach with their catch.89</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At some undefined stage, catching waves developed from being part of the everyday working skill of the fisherman to being a sport. Instead of being part of work it became play. This change revolutionized surfing.90</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“For thousands of years,” wrote 1960s world champion surfer and Hawaiian Fred Hemmings, “cultures living and prospering on the coastlines of the world’s great oceans viewed waves as an adversary of nature.”91 Where these people all saw difficulty, it took the Polynesians to see the fun in it.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Yet, the way of the surfer was not the same as that of the ocean-traversing voyager, sailor or ocean fisherman. As 1960s world champion surfer Mike Doyle pointed out in his autobiography </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Morning Glass</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “The tradition of the waterman comes from Polynesia and is different from the tradition of the sailor. The waterman’s skills include surfing, paddling, rowing, and rough-water swimming. He might also be skilled at diving, fishing, spear fishing, tandem surfing, lifeguarding, and handling outrigger canoes. But he isn’t necessarily skilled at sailing or navigation. The difference is that a waterman focuses on the coastal waters, while the sailor’s realm is the deep water… the watermen who came before me didn’t just go to the dive shop or the surf shop and buy the latest thing on the rack. They designed their own boards, their own dive gear, and their own outrigger canoes. They were constantly thinking and experimenting with other watermen about ways to perfect their gear. Nobody knew then how a surfboard should be designed. The only way to find out what worked and what didn’t was to try it.”92</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wave sliding, a.k.a. surfing — what was termed </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he’e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, in old Hawai‘i93 – is such an old sport, “its actual beginning cannot be traced,” observed Desmond Muirhead in his 1962 personal memoir of Surfing in Hawai‘i. “In ancient Polynesia there was no written language, since both history and legend were handed down by word of mouth from parents to their children. This exchange was usually in the form of chants which were called ‘meles’ in Hawai‘i. There is ample evidence, from the many references in these chants, that the art of surf-riding was one of the most widespread of the Polynesian sports, practiced in one form or another throughout the Pacific region, from New Zealand to Hawai‘i, and from Easter Island to New Guinea.” Muirhead added that, “The types of surfing practiced in Tahiti and Hawai‘i, which are themselves similar, were far more skilled than those found on most of the other Pacific Islands, where surfing on boards was usually practiced by children, and the sport was not well developed.”94</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Simple surfing with a body-board,” suggested Finney & Houston in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawai`ian Kings</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “may be several thousand years old, as old perhaps as the settling of the Pacific islands... The first Polynesian settlers [in Hawai’i] probably were already skilled in simple surfing, and perhaps after a few hundred years of riding Hawai’i’s waves the uniquely Hawaiian form of the sport was developed.”95</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Since </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, cannot be traced to its exact beginnings,96 how it developed in its infancy can only be surmised. Yet, there is some hope that future archaeological work in the Pacific will reveal some answers over time. Meanwhile, much of what we know of early surfing is what was recorded by the first Europeans to land in Polynesia in the late 1700s, hundreds of years after the Long Voyages had ended.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At the time of the first Polynesian/European contact on the island of Tahiti, in 1777, British Navigator Captain James Cook described how a Tahitian caught waves with his outrigger canoe just for the fun of it:</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“On walking one day about Matavai Point, where our tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in a small canoe so quickly and looking about him with such eagerness of each side, as to command all my attention... He went out from the shore till he was near the place where the swell begins to take its rise and, watching its first motion very attentively, paddled before it with great quickness, till he found that it overlooked him, and had acquired sufficient force to carry his canoe before it without passing underneath. He then sat motionless and was carried along at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe, and went in search of another swell. I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea...”97</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">References to the art of surf riding are scattered throughout traditional Polynesian meles – chants or oral history related and told through song. By the end of the Long Voyages, surfing had become one of the most widespread of the Polynesian sports. As Muirhead pointedout, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e nalu </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">was practiced in one form or another throughout the Pacific region, from Aotearoa to Hawai‘i, and from Rapa Nui to New Guinea.98</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Board surfing became most advanced on islands within the Polynesian Triangle bounded by Hawai‘i, Rapa Nui, and Aotearoa.99 In Western Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia, surf sports like board surfing were mainly a children’s pastime and usually limited to boys only. By contrast, on most main islands of Eastern Polynesia, surfing became a sport for both sexes and all ages.100 The epicenter of board skill became Hawai‘i, where </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> made its furthest development.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Assuming that, like most things, surfing started simply and then grew to be more complex, a possible sequence in the origin of Hawaiian surfing might go something like this: 1) From simple body surfing, called </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he‘e umauma</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Hay-ay oo-MAU-ma) in the Hawaiian language, to basic canoe surfing or vice versa; 2) Then came a rudimentary form of surfing, mainly a children’s activity practiced with small body boards.101 This type of simple surfing with a body board – we commonly call it “body boarding“ or “boogie boarding,” today – has been estimated as being several thousand years old and possibly preceeding the settling of the Pacific islands.102 Personally, I believe bodyboarding is far older than that; practiced in many parts of the world at different times and may have even preceded canoe surfing; 3) From the body board, in western Polynesia, sprang an adult sport practiced with bigger boards (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">papa he‘e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">);103 5) Afterward, in Hawai‘i, in eastern Polynesia, surfing reached its furthest development up to modern times.104</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Simple board-surfing – in which a swimmer uses a short plank or other aid to ride a wave just for the fun of it – was practiced throughout the Pacific Islands,” Finney and Houston wrote. “Recreational wave-riding was probably part of the general marine adaptation pioneered by the first people to enter the open Pacific. That would date the beginnings of the sport back to almost 2000 B.C.”105</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Chief Kealoha”</span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Twentieth Century surfer and innovator Tom Blake fantasized, in the first book ever written solely about surfing, about what surfing must have been like before Europeans landed upon the shores of Polynesia. Taken from </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1935, here is Blake’s fictional account of a surfer who surfed much in the same way as his forefathers must have done hundreds of years before. The rider is a Hawaiian from the Kealoha family, surfing Waikiki, on O‘ahu:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“There is a high storm surf running, just what the young huskies have been waiting for – zero break. (There is third, second, first break, and anything outside of that is zero break at Waikiki.) The waves are breaking at Kalehuawehe surf, far past the outer edge of the coral reef, maybe a half mile off shore. Our hero is the young Chief Kealoha.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“He will not ask his sweetheart to ride today. It is too dangerous for a girl out there. He selects a beautiful polished fifteen foot board of wili wili from his collection of a dozen – his favorite for single riding on big waves. Many interested eyes watch him as he starts from shore lying prone upon the board, and paddles seaward with perfectly times, powerful strokes. A hundred yards from shore he encounters the inside or third break. He merely stops his stroke, lowers his head, and hangs on. At two hundred yards he is in the midst of a seething mass of foam and slamming breakers – second break; here comes the big one – nearer and nearer, and now it is about to engulf him. He had the board directly at right angles to the wave, or headed squarely into it. Just before the foam touches the end of the board, he slips into the water out of sight. He is under the board hanging on at the stern, and in a second the breaker passes and he is again paddling toward the outer reef. The other seven or eight big waves of the set (they come at intervals or in sets) punish him as the first one did, but he like[s] it, loves it, it is life to his young Hawaiian blood. He soon reaches the first break, some hundred yards from shore, but still continues toward his goal, zero break, there to rest and wait for the next series of waves.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Kealoha shouts from sheer excitement as he sees the ground swells rise up, blue, then green, out at sea. The surfrider maneuvers to a certain position relative to two land marks on shore. He knows from experience that the big swells will be steep at that place, because the water is slightly shallower there. Minutes pass, the first of the set is about one hundred yards away. It is this suspense that is the extreme thrill of surfriding. The hazard is great. Will he get a clean ride, or will he lose control of the heavy board, giving it a chance to strike him, bruise him, crack his skull, knock him senseless, perhaps kill him? The power of a twenty-five foot wave is tremendous. He knows he has a fifty-fifty chance to ride this monster. For Kealoha has selected the fourth wave of the set. It is better because it is a bit larger and the first three smoothed the chop of the sea as they swept in.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Kealoha starts paddling toward shore, at right angles to the wave. The breaker is a beauty and he has been watching its approach by glancing back over his shoulder. It is within ten yards of him, towering, active, rushing shoreward, but not yet broken. His heart beats faster, his arms move faster, as the swell comes closer. Instead of crashing over him, the wave lifts – ever so easily, strongly, surely – this great board, this daring boy, until it is just about to pass them. He is high on the crest; it is like looking down off a small cliff. Another deep hard stroke, with all his strength, and he has it.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The board and rider slide down the face of the twenty yard slope of the wave, as a child with a bob sled coasts down an icy hill. The instant he is on the wave, no more paddling, but there is still much to do. Kealoha moves back on the board a foot to keep the bow from going under. His course is first a tack to the left, then straight for shore, and the round board holds it well and steadily as he guides by steering with feet and legs.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“For the first hundred yards it is just one grand free ride, but as the swell approaches the shallower water it steepens and crashes with a thunderous noise, partly over the surfrider. He is out of sight an instant in the boiling foam, but Kealoha straining every muscle and steering by judgment, wins; the great momentum of the board has carried him ahead of the break, and it is quite a simple matter to ride the wave for two or three hundred yards more. He relaxes a bit, and shouts for joy, for he has conquered.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Kealoha repeats the performance for hours. Sometimes successfully, sometimes having his board torn from him and having to swim in over the dangerous reef for it, in the churning foam. He finally calls it a day and comes to the beach, tired but very happy.”111</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">89 Young, 1983, p. 1.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">90 Young, 1983, p. 1.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">91 Hemmings, Fred. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Soul of Surfing is Hawaiian</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1997, unpublished edition.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">92 Doyle, Mike with Sorensen, Steve. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Morning Glass</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, The Adventures of Legendary Waterman Mike Doyle, ©1993 by Doyle and Sorensen. Published by Manzanita Press, PO Box 720, Three Rivers, CA 93271, p. 27.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93 The Hawaiian word for surfing </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">he’e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Hay-ay NA-lu) is defined in several ways: 1) v. To ride a surfboard; 2) v. Surfing, literally “wave sliding;” 3) n. Surf rider; and 4) n. the surf. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">He’e</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Hay-ay) is variously defined as: 1) v. To slide; 2) v. Surf; 3) v. Slip or glide; 4) v. Flee; 5) n. A flowing, as of liquid; 6) n. Menstruation; 7) n. A flight, as of a routed army; 8) n. The squid, so called because of its slippery qualities; 9) v. To change from a solid to a liquid substance; and 10) v. Run as a liquid. The second part, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (NA-lu), refers to: 1) n. Wave; 2) n. Surf; 3) v. Full of waves; 4) v. To form waves; 5) adj. Wavy, as wood grain; 6) adj. Roaring; 7) adj. Surfing; 8) adj. Rolling in, as the surf of the sea; 9) n. The surf as it rolls in upon the beach; a sea; a wave; a billow; 10) n. The surging motion of a wave; the foaming of a wave; 11) n. The slimy liquid on the face of a newborn child. See Lorrin Andrews, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Lahaina, Maui, 1865; Samuel Elbert and Mary Kawena Pukui, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Dictionary</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Honolulu, 1971; Nat Young, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">History of Surfing</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1983, Palm Beach Press, N.S.W., Australia.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">94 Muirhead, Desmond. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing in Hawaii, A Personal Memoir</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “With Notes on California, Australia, Peru and Other Surfing Countries,” ©1962, Northland Press, Flagstaff, Arizona, p. 1. See also Finney & Houston, p. 24. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Meles</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> date back to at least the 15th century A.D. See Young, p. 31.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">95 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">96 See Andrews, 1865; Elbert and Pukui, 1971; Young, 1983.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">97 Quoted in Young, 1983, p. 31. See also Lueras, p. 46; and Cook’s Voyages, Volume 2, Chapter 9.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">98 Muirhead, 1962, p. 1. See Finney & Houston, 1966, pp. 21 & 24. See also Young, 1983, p. 31.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">99 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 22. See map of the Polynesian Triangle, same page.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">100 Finney and Houston, 1996, p. 32.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">101 Finney & Houston, 1966, p. 34.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">102 Finney and Houston, 1966, p. 24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">103 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Papa he‘e nalu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (pa-pa HAY-ay NA-lu), n. – surfboard. Literally, “A board for sliding waves.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">104 Finney & Houston, 1966, p. 34.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">105 Finney & Houston, 1996, p. 21.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">111 Blake, 1935, 1983, pp. 6-7. Used by permission. Blake’s parenthesis</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></span></p><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-51376366513730105212022-07-30T23:53:00.002-07:002022-08-31T01:27:25.445-07:00Peter Cole (1930-2022)<p><span style="font-family: arial;">Text, Audio and Video about Peter Cole is collected at: </span></p><p><a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/99148475798/search/?q=peter%20cole"><span style="font-family: arial;">https://www.facebook.com/groups/99148475798/search/?q=peter%20cole</span></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62i5E8nLYsir4ZbHOJBlTyMP9YCd_WI8VnieugfEQ2TfKYAZJDn9ihddYGUmtFD9m7veRQJEKwvxRLvPa5vJfIDwGH8IIpq3Iv43s8ceo-iSQT9WUfFXiRerOC0W9aJccItbzYqPCLBIHVZDExFBSvZu4eTAtXiugknf4kcBI5_nlrHXdY9H_oJIlXQ/s1080/FB_IMG_1657457840838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="1080" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj62i5E8nLYsir4ZbHOJBlTyMP9YCd_WI8VnieugfEQ2TfKYAZJDn9ihddYGUmtFD9m7veRQJEKwvxRLvPa5vJfIDwGH8IIpq3Iv43s8ceo-iSQT9WUfFXiRerOC0W9aJccItbzYqPCLBIHVZDExFBSvZu4eTAtXiugknf4kcBI5_nlrHXdY9H_oJIlXQ/s320/FB_IMG_1657457840838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Peter Cole, Waimea, 1971</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Photo by Steve Wilkings</div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-5258922923992246612022-07-13T01:44:00.005-07:002022-08-26T04:52:57.417-07:00The Long Voyages<p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Polynesian Voyages</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> that took place after the settling of Hawaii by crews of the Ali’i chiefs.</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00HU2v4wnq_cewHAucRpoLuWCvX1s88WRLHhwHbmdr3eG7eGt7ylxJJUB3AVIBrMtpcfaKYSN1A99d-ncPtaabZfIeZSiDPl2IbiSttgY3I_dD5ITJU1vFn7g6n8SSwKhOqiJQlR5PbhN05nQ-F0d0Vqd5JQ2iyd8KXqr-KKyrc2Fv2vaSOWDLbQGXQ/s800/polymig2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="800" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00HU2v4wnq_cewHAucRpoLuWCvX1s88WRLHhwHbmdr3eG7eGt7ylxJJUB3AVIBrMtpcfaKYSN1A99d-ncPtaabZfIeZSiDPl2IbiSttgY3I_dD5ITJU1vFn7g6n8SSwKhOqiJQlR5PbhN05nQ-F0d0Vqd5JQ2iyd8KXqr-KKyrc2Fv2vaSOWDLbQGXQ/s320/polymig2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span id="docs-internal-guid-1e28f35c-7fff-6854-8a59-ae36bc69cbf7"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ethnologist Abraham Fornander wrote: “after a period of comparative quiet and obscurity, the Polynesian folklore in all the principal groups becomes replete with the legends and songs of a number of remarkable men, of bold expeditions, stirring adventures, and voyages undertaken to far-off lands. An era of national unrest and of tribal commotion seems to have set in, from causes not now known, nor mentioned in the legends... a migratory wave swept the island world of the Pacific, embracing in its vortex all the principal groups, and probably all the smaller. Chiefs from the southern groups visited the Hawaiian group, and chiefs from the latter visited the former, accompanied by their relatives, priests, and retainers...”50</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to Hawaiian folklore, the northern discovery and settlement of the Hawaiian islands had initially been made by the Menehune, a people short in stature.51 Extending for thirteen or fourteen generations, or between four and five hundred years,52 the Menehune lived a relatively peaceful life, by all accounts and speculations. Stone temples – </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiaus</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – and fish ponds – </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">loko-ia</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – attributed to them still exist.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Later came the ali’i invaders from Tahiti (Kahiki),”53 during the last era of the last migratory period, and the Menehune were gradually assimilated or wiped out. It is also possible they were only a myth. To date, no skeletal remains have been found to support their existence.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The ali’i voyages began from Kahiki (Tahiti) after 800 A.D. From Tahiti to Hawaii is 2,400 miles, but some of the intervening small islands may have been used for resting places. It has been suggested that the annual migration of the golden plover (kolea) to the south from Alaska through the Hawaiian Islands may have given the people in Tahiti the idea of land to the north. The Hawaiian myth of Papa mentions this. According to the legend, Papa married Wakea, who gave birth to the islands. Papa left the Hawaiian region on a visit to Tahiti and in his absence Wakea married Hoohoku-lani. The news of Wakea’s infidelity was told to Papa in Tahiti by the kolea, or golden plover</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The dates of the ali‘i voyages to Hawai‘i are approximate. Though Hawaiian genealogies are long, they are also somewhat confused. An analysis by Stokes shows that a number of names personifying natural phenomena have been introduced among the names of Hawaiian human ancestors. Similar associations are also present in other parts of Polynesia. The dates of some of the outstanding ali‘i immigrants… [were tabulated] from an analysis of Hawaiian genealogies by Bruce Cartwright. The number of generations is taken back from 1900 A.D., allowing 25 years to a generation.54</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The Puna line is well established in the Society and the Manihiki (Cook island) chains. The Hema line is known widely, even as far as New Zealand.55</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The final voyage of the later period of the long voyages “was brought about by the priest Paao,” lectured Pearl S. Buck, “who came from Tahiti and seeing that the chiefly stock had degenerated in the person of Kapawa, he returned to Tahiti to get fresh ali’i blood. He returned with Pili-kaaiea whom he established in high chieftainship on the island of Hawai’i. Traditional narrative relates that he was responsible for a changed form in the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">heiau</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> religious structures, and that he also introduced human sacrifice and the red feather girdle (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">malo ula</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) of the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ali’i nui</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“The channel between the islet of Kahoolawe and the huge island of Maui, named Ke-ala-i-kahiki (the way to Tahiti) remains as a record of the fact that the voyagers took their departure from this point when they ran south to Tahiti. They sailed south by keeping the North Star (Hokupaa) directly eastern and when they lost it in the sea behind on crossing the Equator (Te Piko o Wakea), they picked up the southern guiding star Newe and the constellation of Humu stood overhead. In the period of the ‘long voyages‘ the 2400 miles of sea were crossed and recrossed by the Hawaiian ancestors who have handed down a record of daring achievement of which their descendants may be justly proud.”56</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The Polynesian migration did not end with the Hawaiian chain, but continued to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) and Aotearoa (New Zealand). Rapa Nui is the furthest point east that we can say conclusively that Polynesians voyaged eastwards to and settled. Although there is no evidence of Polynesians reaching any of the beaches in the South American continent, it has been suggested that this is a possibility.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Rapa Nui, 400 A.D.</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Go to the island of my dreams</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">and seek for a beautiful beach </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">upon which the king may dwell.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> -- Legend of Hotu-Matua58</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Rapa Nui is best known today for its unique and mysterious stone images erected throughout the island. The island itself is not only the farthest known point of the Polynesian migration; it is one of the most remote inhabitable islands in the world, a tiny speck of land thirteen miles long and ten miles wide. The closest inhabited islands lie to the west. Pitcairn is 1,100 miles distant and Mangareva 1,410 miles away. South America is 2,030 miles to the east. Eaoa Nui is a volcanic island with dry, arid soil, no streams, and slight rainfall. Of a number of extinct craters, the largest one, Rano Aroi rises to a height of 600 feet. According to legend, it was King Hotu Matua who found Rapa Nui in the midst of the rising sun.59</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“King Hotu-Matua dwelt in the land of Marae-renga [Hiva],” wrote Peter Buck in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vikings of the Pacific</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “and he dreamed of an island with a beautiful beach that lay over the eastern horizon. He sent men on a canoe named Oraora-miro to locate a beach on his dream island. He followed in their wake in his great double canoe, ninety feet long and six feet deep. One hull bore the name Oteka and the other Qua. The king was accompanied by the master craftsman, Tu-koihu, in another canoe. After many days’ sail, the two vessels sighted an island that Horu-matua knew to be the island of his dreams. As they approached the western end of the island, the two vessels separated, the king to survey the south coast and Tu-koihu the north. The king’s ship sailed rapidly and paddles were plied to increase the speed. The king’s ship rounded the eastern end of the island without having seen the beach for which he searched. On the north coast he saw the canoe of Tu-koihu paddling to a beach that he recognized as the beach of his dream. It would never do for Tu-koihu to land before him, so he invoked his gods with the magic words, ‘Ka hakamau te konekone’ (Stay the paddling). The paddles of Tu-koihu’s crew stayed motionless in the water, and the sea seethed as the king’s paddlers raced for the shore. The double prow of the king’s ship ran up on the sands of Anakena, and Hotu-matua stepped ashore onto a beautiful beach fit for a king to dwell upon.”60</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hotu-Matua took up his residence at Anakena and shortly after the landing his wife Vaikai-a-hiva gave birth to a male child. Tu-koihu cut the navel cord of the child and conducted the ritual whereby the royal halo (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ata ariki</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) was produced around the child’s head to indicate its royal birth. He was named Tu-maheke and through him descends the line of Easter Island kings. On the basis of fragments of royal genealogies, it is estimated that Hotu-Matua landed on the island about 150 A.D., which possibly could have put the Rapa Nui landing earlier than the Hawaiian.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As in other parts of Polynesia, Rapa Nui tribes developed as the population grew, taking the names of ancestors and living in defined districts of the island. The highest ranking chief, who also had priestly functions, belonged to the senior line descended from Hotu-Matua. This tribe was named Miru and ranked above the other tribes, enjoying certain special privileges.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">For unknown reasons, inter-tribal wars were frequent. The tale of the war between Long-ears and Short-ears may indicate that there were two early groups of settlers; one group, which pierced their ears and wore such heavy ornaments that their ears were considerably elongated, coming from the Marquesas where heavy ear ornaments were worn, and the other group which did not pierce their ears coming from Mangareva. The Long-ears lived on the eastern end of the island and were credited with making the stone images which have long ears and the stone temple structures. The Short-ears lived on the western part of the island and had the more fertile lands. The Marquesans carved large stone images and built stone retaining walls, whereas the Mangarevans did not. It seems that conflict arose because the Short-ears refused to carry stones to assist the Long-ears in erecting a temple. In the war which followed, the Long-ears were said to</span></span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> be almost exterminated. This may account for what appears to have been a sudden cessation of work in the image quarry and the commencement of knocking down the images from their platforms.61</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In addition to this lesson on toleration of diversity, the other lesson Rapa Nui can teach us is the preservation of existing ecology. Archeological evidence shows that the relatively barren island was once covered with forests and several species of plants including hardwoods and giant palm trees. The trees and plants that were cut down and used by the island’s new and growing population were not replanted and thus the rich assets the island possessed upon human arrival were never replenished – at least not begun until relatively modern times.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">South America?</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Rapa Nui as the farthest point of eastern Polynesian migration is conclusively documented. Yet, the sweet potato’s distribution may hold the answer to whether or not Polynesians went further, reaching the mainland of South America. The stretch of ocean between Rapa Nui and the coast of South America is less than that crossed between Tahiti and Hawai‘i or Aotearoa (New Zealand).</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“That some Polynesian voyagers reached South America has usually been regarded as doubtful,” according to Peter Buck. “Yet the problem of the distribution of the sweet potato in space and time cannot be lightly disposed of. Some botanists maintain that Central or South America is the original home of the sweet potato. We know from traditional narrative that the sweet potato had been carried to both Hawai‘i and New Zealand before Columbus discovered America. Professor Roland Dixon of Harvard supports the fact that if America is the original home, the sweet potato must have been brought into Polynesia by some Indian tribe or by Polynesians who reached South America and returned.” This dovetails into Thor Heyerdal’s theories of Polynesian origins quite well.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Renowned adventurer Thor Heyerdal suggested that migration to Polynesia had followed the North Pacific conveyor, as had the rest of the American hemisphere. He therefore turned his search for origins to the coasts of British Columbia and Peru. Heyerdahl first published his theory (International Science, New York, 1941) that Polynesia had been reached by two successive waves of immigrants. His theory suggested that the first wave had reached Polynesia via Peru and Easter Island on balsa rafts. Centuries later, a second ethnic group reached Hawaii in large double-canoes from British Columbia. The results of Heyerdahl’s research were later published 1952 in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">American Indians in the Pacific</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. In the dramatic voyages of the wooden craft </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon-Tiki</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> in 1947 and the reed-craft </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ra</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> expeditions in 1969-70, Heyerdahl demonstrated the feasibility of traveling from the Americas to Polynesia and Rapa Nui. Although his theories and voyages grabbed the imagination of many, subsequent voyages made by the Polynesian Voyaging Society and the prevailing archaeological evidence do not support an east-to-west migration of people into Polynesia.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">While most Native American tribes people were not seamen, had ample land to meet their requirements and no overriding reason to take to the ocean, it is still possible that Polynesians landed in the Americas from the west. The Polynesian migration might have extended as far as South America.62 We just don’t know for sure.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Aotearoa, 950 A.D.</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“A distant land, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">cloud-capped, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">with plenty of moisture, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">and a sweet-scented soil.”</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> -- Kupe</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Raiatea and Tahiti in the Society Islands form the center of the diffusion of the later period of Polynesian voyaging. The ancient name of Raiatea was, in fact, Hawai‘i. This name in various dialectical forms (including “Hawai‘iki”) figures as the starting point of most of the Polynesian Voyages.63</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Maori oral, or Aotearoa’s canoe tradition, tells us of Kupe, one of the great Polynesian navigators, who set sail from Hawai‘iki (ancestral home of the Maori) in his waka (pirogue) Mata-hou-rua and later discovered the “Land of High Mists.” He subsequently named the place Aotearoa, which alternatively means “the long white cloud,”64 “Land of the Long Day,” “Land of the Long Dawn,” or “Land of the Long Twilight.”65 Later Europeans named the island “New Zealand”. I use mostly the original given name of Aotearoa.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Upon Kupe’s return from his initial discovery, he gave the sailing directions as a little left of the setting sun in the Maori month. This corresponds to the lunar month of November-December. From a number of genealogies, Kupe’s discovery of Aotearoa has been placed at about the period between 925 and 950 A.D. Kupe reported seeing no human beings, but one telling of the tradition states that he saw smoke inland from the coast of the North Island. Although there is no evidence to substantiate this, it is possible that an earlier group of Polynesians had reached New Zealand, but had not spread to the parts visited by Kupe.66</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Two centuries later, a noted Maori ancestor named Toi sailed down to Aotearoa in search of his grandson Whatonga, who had been blown out to sea during a regatta in Hawai‘iki. Toi found the country fairly well populated in parts by a people who had been blown away while journeying from one island to another. These people had no cultivable food plants. In a classic case of “two ships passing in the night,” Toi was later joined by his grandson, who had returned to Hawai‘iki after Toi’s departure, and in turn set out to seek his grandfather. Neither Toi’s nor his grandson’s vessels brought women along, so the two crews ended up marrying wives from the earlier people. This resulted in mixed Toi tribes.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">An interesting Maori tradition relates the arrival of two voyaging chiefs who brought with them cooked sweet potatoes. The new food created such a desire for the plant that an expedition sailed back into central Polynesia to secure sweet potato tubers for cultivation in Aotearoa. Between the years 1150 A.D. and 1350 A.D. various voyaging canoes came to Aotearoa from Hawai‘iki. Most likely, return voyages were also made. By this time, Aotearoa was well known to the people of Hawai‘iki for traditions handed down by the East Coast tribes of New Zealand show that when their ancestor Paikea arrived, he went directly to places where his relatives resided.67</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This was the time of the voyages of a number of famous canoes and their crews: the Tainui, Arawa, Tokomaru, Mataatua, Kurahaupo, and Takitimu. The Aotea and Te Ririno went together and after encountering a severe storm the Aotea called in at the Kermadec Islands, refitted, and made Aotearoa. The Horouta and Mamaru are other well known canoes. These later canoes came to Aotearoa specifically to settle and brought their women and cultivable food plants – especially important the taro, yam, and sweet potato. The year 1350 A.D. is usually regarded as the date when immigration ceased and the “sacred tide to Hawai’iki was cut off.“68</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In detailing the organization of the Polynesian migration to New Zealand, Te Rangi Hiroa said, “The crews of the various voyaging canoes selected areas for settlement that would avoid clashing with one another. When they became established, they fought and fused with the earlier wave who were called the ‘people of the land.’ (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">tangata whenua</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">). Family groups expanded into subtribes (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">hapu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) and tribes (</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">iwi</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">) until the whole North Island was divided up into canoe areas occupied by tribes which acknowledged a common ancestral origin.”69 These people became landsmen and the urge for the long voyages ceased. Their glories and those of their ancestors upon the great ocean of Kiwa were thus relegated to narrative, speech, and song.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">One famous Maori song of welcome features canoes prominently:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Toia mai, te waka!</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Draw hither, the canoe!</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Kumea mai, te waka!</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Haul hither, the canoe!</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ki te urunga, te waka!</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To its pillow, the canoe</span></span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">!</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ki te moenga, te waka!</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To its bed, the canoe!</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ki te takotoranga i takoto ai te waka.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To the resting place where shall rest, the canoe.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Haere mai, haere mai.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Welcome, twice welcome.70</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Polynesian Canoes</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Polynesian voyaging was a collective feat “that properly should rank among the great achievements of human history,” wrote Kenneth P. Emory, “and one that must have been flooded with human drama.”71 By 1000 A.D., the period of the last of the Long Voyages, the Viking Leif Erikson sailed from Europe to North America and gun powder was invented in China.72</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Like the Maori, the Polynesians that settled in Hawaii were evidently quite satisfied with their new home, for they also gave up long ocean voyaging. “It became more or less of a lost art with them,” Emory wrote, but also noted that there is little difference between the design of the modern Hawaiian outrigger canoe and those found at the time of the European landings in the late 1700s. “The only difference,” says Emory, “is that the fore and end pieces of the canoe, manu, are now made out of one solid piece instead of two, and that these end pieces and the board, moo, attached on each side, are now nailed on instead of being lashed on. The lashings of the outrigger of modern canoes [1960s] are not nearly so neat as those made in the old days.”73</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At the time of the European landings, “there were much larger canoes, and also double canoes rigged with the Hawaiian sail which went out of existence more than one hundred years ago,” noted Emory. In fact, James Jarves, in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scenes and Scenery in the Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1844, gave an account of the European navigator Vancouver sighting one of these large canoes between the islands of O’ahu and Kaua’i. “Vancouver fell upon the finest canoe they had ever seen; it being sixty and one-half feet long, with proportionate depth and width and made from an American pine log. Its size considerably exceeds the largest canoe made from native timber (koa wood).”74</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“The large double canoes, rigged with a mat sail,” continued Emory, “were quite suitable for inter-island travel. Some very large Hawaiian canoes were made from great California redwood logs which drifted to these shores. The rotting hull of one 108 feet long was still to be seen in the 1870’s.”75 Early twentieth century surfer Tom Blake claimed that at that time, “On the Kona coast in Hawai`i there is said to be part of a canoe now being used as a water trough, so large a man could stand upright in it and be out of view.”76</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“The hulls of Hawaiian canoes were always in one piece,” emphasized Emory. “The trees, when not redwoods, were carefully selected by the kahuna kalai wa’a who slept in a house in a heiau for a vision to guide him in his choice. A sacrifice of a red fish, of coconuts, and awa, was made before the felling of the tree. Ceremonies were performed at every stage in the shaping of the log, of its dragging to the shore, of its building in the canoe shed, and finally at its launching. The canoe was smoothly finished off by rubbing with sand caught in the meshes of coconut husk fiber, or by shark skin. It was then painted black with burnt kukui nut mixed with oil. The trimmings of a royal canoe were painted red.”77 One prayer in connection with the consecration of a canoe went like this:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Uplifter of the Heavens, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Uplifter of the earth,</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Uplifter of the mountains, </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Uplifter of the ocean,</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Grant a canoe that shall be swift as a fish,</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To sail in stormy seas,</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">When the storm tosses on all sides.78 </span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“In Tahiti,” continued Emory, “hulls of large canoes were made of several sections of hollowed-out logs joined together. The stern rose high out of the water and the bow was fitted with a projecting plank. In the outrigger, the forward boom was not attached directly to the float, but indirectly by means of pegs. The double seagoing canoes were, most commonly, twin canoes. Each was built up of planks carefully fitted and secured in place by sewing with sennit. The seams were caulked with coconut fibre, perhaps soaked with breadfruit gum, and the seams were covered with battens held firmly in place by the sewing. By this means, canoes could be built up to almost any size and could be varied as to shape. The space between the canoes was decked over, and on this deck were set one or two masts and a deck house thatched with pandanus leaf. The sails were narrower and higher than the Hawaiian sail but embodied the same principles.”79</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">According to Emory, Tongan canoes were the finest sailing ships in Polynesia when the Europeans first arrived. “They reached the enormous length of 150 feet, nearly twice the size of the trading schooners in the South Seas today. The Tonga double canoe had one canoe very much smaller than the other. The sail, though a lateen, or in other words, a triangular sail, was suspended from the mast by the middle of one side. The end of the mast was fixed on the deck or front of the canoe and when it came to tacking, the sail, not the canoe, was reversed. The Tongan canoe was modeled after the Fijian, the Tongans improving on the Fijian. This Tongan-Fijian canoe was perfected in about the 16th century when the Tongans were securing the central Pacific and penetrating north even as far as Fanning, 1000 miles from Hawai’i, where they left two tombs of chiefs.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Canoes were equipped with ordinary paddles, steering paddles, bailers, seats, mat sails, and tassels of feathers or pennants of kapa flying from the masthead or outer end of the sail. Most old Hawaiian paddles were tipped at the end with a midrib on one side. Stone anchors were carried, although in the Tuamotus the usual method of anchoring a canoe was by diving and fastening the anchor to a coral head.”80</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It is likely that at the height of the colonization period, when whole families with their retinues, their household property, their domesticated animals and plants were to be transported, new canoes were built solely for their transport. These canoes were undoubtedly larger and better than any Polynesian craft existent at the time of European contact; centuries after the period of colonization had come to an end.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“In preparing for a long voyage,” Emory wrote, “canoes were carefully gone over. They were recaulked and relashed on all weak points and the rigging was overhauled. If the canoes were especially built for the voyage, preparations might extend over many months.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“The stores of food and water were the next most important things to attend to. Water was stored in bamboo joints or in gourds or in coconut bottles. Of these, the bamboo could be most conveniently packed away on board. Sweet potatoes, taro, bananas, young drinking coconuts, and breadfruit would last a week or ten days and a supply for this period was put in. Yams would last two months. Among other lasting foods were mature coconuts and several prepared foods, such as fermented breadfruit, dried taro, dried sweet potato, and dried bananas. Pandanus food was another concentrated lasting preparation taken on a voyage. It was a yellow dough the consistency of putty, and was made by scraping the starch from the base of the keys, mixing it with coconut milk, and baking it. Fresh fish could be kept alive in bamboo aquaria, and shell fish would keep alive a few days. Dried fish was one of the staples of the long voyage. Pigs and chickens were kept alive on copra and the dogs were fed the remains of the pigs, chickens, and scraps of fish. A few birds and fish might be caught at sea to round off the menu. Sand, earth, stones, and firewood were carried for the imu.”81</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The Tahitians and Tuamotuans rarely took more than twenty days’ provisions. The Polynesian double-hulled voyaging canoe is a fairly fast sailing vessel. With favorable winds it can make eight or nine knots. It has been estimated that with a fair following wind, the great voyage from Tahiti to Aotearoa could have been covered in about 11 days. To that end, the weather was most carefully chosen. “Tuamotu natives have been know to wait months at Tahiti for the right season of the year to return home,” wrote Emory. “In addition to waiting for a perfect day for the start, all omens must be right on that day, and the religious rites attending the departure must be completed.”82</span></span></p><br /><br /><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Polynesian Navigation</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Open ocean voyaging in double-hulled canoes was and still is a formidable act. It is not only a physical, but a mental challenge, particularly for a navigator without a magnetic compass or written chart. To navigate hundreds of miles of ocean requires an extensive and intimate knowledge of the ocean and sky. Primary in the pack of knowledge was the use of setting points of celestial bodies for direction and winds and swell for holding course.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Kenneth Emory described traditional Polynesian navigation as it was exhibited in the 1960s: “When the natives of Anaa in the Tuamotus set out for Tahiti, 250 miles distant, they dragged their fine twin ships from their neat canoe sheds and hauled them to the edge of the reef flat over the butts of coconut leaves, amid their lively hauling chanties. The canoes were lined up with points on shore which gave the exact direction for them to pick up Matavai point on Tahiti and at sunset they took final leave of their friends and launched their canoes.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“They fixed on the first bright star directly ahead near the western horizon. When it began to sink into the horizon haze they guided on the star following this one. If you stop to think you will realize this is not so easy. The second star would not be directly above the first but slightly off to one side or the other. Here is where the lore of the Tuamotu astronomer came in. He was aware that all the fixed stars which sink on one spot on the horizon arise from one spot on the eastern horizon, and that these two spots never change as long as he remains in one place. These stars follow the same curved course through the sky and are said to belong to the same rua, or pit. The principal stars which follow a number of courses in both the northern and southern parts of the heavens were known by name. The Polynesian navigator could recognize and give the name of 150 or more stars and, furthermore, what was of the greatest importance, he knew which belonged to the same parallel of latitude. He did not express it that way, of course, but said instead that they all issued from the same pit.”83</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Over 120 Hawaiian names of stars and planets have been preserved,” added E.H. Bryan, Jr.84</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">While navigating at night, if clouds suddenly began to obscure the approaching sky, a man would be stationed in front and keep a back sight on a star on the departing horizon, and on the stars following it. If the whole sky became overcast, he fell back temporarily on the movement of wind and waves. If the skies cleared he would search for stars on the horizons known to belong to the same series as the stars guided on before the clouds came in.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In bad or rainy weather at night, a change in the winds was quickly noted because the waves would not change their direction right away. Winds were recognized as much by their character as by the direction from which they came. A navigator confused as to his direction could often re-orient himself by recognizing a certain wind.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In the daytime, the sun became the principal guide for navigation. It was supplemented by waves, winds, and currents. Sea birds were also a help, as the direction from which they came or were headed indicated the presence of land.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">All Polynesian navigators had a very clear notion of the cardinal points – north, south, east and west – and of the points midway. As soon as he could find a wind, or celestial body on which he could right himself, he would know if he was going in the likely direction of his intended arrival. A string in which knots were tied each day enabled him to keep track of the days passed. As land neared, usually great piles of clouds indicated where it stood long before it could be seen.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This high visibility for islands was not always the case, however. Emory noted that his return from Tahiti to Anaa was more difficult than traveling from the smaller to the bigger island. Apaa “is not very wide and is so low that a canoe can pass within eight miles in clear weather and not see it,” Emory wrote. “Much greater care had to be exercised in choosing the weather, for Anaa lay to windward and the favorable winds were rare and occurred only in one season. The shallow lagoon of Anaa in the daytime casts a reflection of a peculiar greenish color on any clouds that pass overhead. We saw this light at a distance of twenty miles and it acted as a beacon to us. I have been told that in rainy weather when coral islands are easily passed by, that a pig on board would be carefully watched. If he got a whiff of land his nose would turn landward. Many such tricks must have been used by the Polynesians.”85</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Spanish emissary Andia Y Varela visited Tahiti in 1774 and wrote a little bit about traditional Tahitian navigation at that time:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“There are many sailing-masters among the people, the term for whom is in their language fatere [</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">faatere</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">; Hawaiian: </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ho’okele</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">]. They are competent to make long voyages like that from Otahiti [Tahiti] to Oriayatea [Ra`iatea], which counts forty or fifty leagues [one league equals 30 nautical miles, so 120-150 miles], and others farther a field... They have no mariner’s compass, but divide the horizon into sixteen parts, taking for the cardinal points those at which the sun rises and sets…</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“When setting out from port the helmsman reckons with the horizon. Thus partitioned counting from E, or the point where the sun rises; he knows the direction in which his destination bears: he sees, also, whether he has the wind aft, or on one or other beam, or on the quarter, or is close-hauled: he knows, further, whether there is a following sea, a head sea, a beam sea, or if it is on the bow or the quarter. He proceeds out of port with a knowledge of these [conditions], heads his vessel according to his calculation, and aided by the signs the sea and wind afford him, does his best to keep steadily on his course. This task becomes more difficult if the day be cloudy, because of having no mark to count from for dividing out the horizon. Should the night be cloudy as well, they regulate their course by the same signs; and, since the wind is apt to vary in direction more than the swell does, they have their pennants, made of feathers and palmetto bark, to watch its changes by and trim sail, always taking their cue for a knowledge of the course from the indication the sea affords them. When the night is a clear one they steer by the stars; and this is the easiest navigation for them because, there being many stars not only do they note by them the bearings on which the several islands with which they are in touch lie, but also the harbours in them, so that they make straight for the entrance by following the rhumb of the particular star that rises or sets over it; and they hit it off with as much precision as the most expert navigator of civilized nations could achieve.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“They distinguish the planets from the fixed stars, by their movements; and give them separate names. To the stars they make use of in going from one island to another, they attach the name of the island, so that the one which serves for sailing from Otahiti to Oriayatea has those same names, and the same occurs with those that serve them for making the harbours in those islands.”86</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In sailing between Tahiti and Ra‘iatea, Andia Y Varela was most impressed with two Polynesians traveling with him. He wrote that “every evening or night, they told me, or prognosticated, the weather we should experience on the following day, as to wind, calms, rainfall, sunshine, sea, and other points, about which they never turned out to be wrong: a foreknowledge worthy to be envied, for, in spite of all that our navigators and cosmographers have observed and written about the subject, they have not mastered this accomplishment.87</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Emory summed it up the best: “At a time when our European ancestors knew little more than the world about the sheltered Mediterranean, our Polynesian ancestors were navigating the greatest of the oceans. And while Columbus and the European navigators of a much later date launched out with fear and trembling into the unknown, these earlier Polynesian navigators knew where they were going and how they were going to get there.”88</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Since Emory’s time of study, major breakthroughs have taken place in the practice and knowledge of Polynesian ocean voyaging. Dramatic voyages were undertaken in the 1970s, 1980s, 1990s and continue to the present day. This rebirth of Polynesian open ocean voyaging that began in the 1970s and the wealth of knowledge from the subsequent voyages since then, continue to inspire people today. In active pursuit of this activity and at the forefront of its development is the Polynesian Voyaging Society.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Footnotes</span></span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hopupu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, vs. emotionally excited, as with hate, love, lust. See Pukui, Mary Kawena and Elbert, Samuel H. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Dictionary</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1986 by the University of Hawai’i, Honolulu, Hawai’i. See also Lueras, Leonard. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, the Ultimate Pleasure</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1984, Workman Publishing, New York, p. 31 </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, © 1966, C.E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Ver</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mont. This work is based on Finney’s 1959 M.A. thesis at the University of Hawai‘i. He was assisted in the writing of the book by Houston, pp. 24-34. At the time, the estimate was 1500 B.C. to 400 A.D. See also Finney, Ben and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1996. Published by Pomegranate Artbooks, Rohnert Park, California, p. 21. Estimate adjusted for 2000 B.C. to before 400 A.D.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3 Finney, Ben Rudolph. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboarding in Oceania: Its Pre-European Distribution</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1959. See also Lueras, p. 34.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">4 Finney and Houston,1996, p. 22. See map of the Polynesian Triangle, same page.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 Stecyk, C.R. “Hot Curl,” </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Surfer’s Journal</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Vol. 3, No. 2, Summer 1994, p. 64.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 Buck, Peter H. “Polynesian Migrations,” chapter two of </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont. Te Rangi Hiroa was better known in the outside world by his European name. Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 23.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7 Campbell, I. C. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A History of the Pacific Islands</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1989, University of California Press, Berkeley, California, p. 31-32. See also </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Man’s Conquest of the Pacific, the Prehistory of South East Asia and Oceana</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, by Peter Bellwood, ©1979, Oxford University Press, New York. This is the definitive work on the prehistory of the Pacific. It includes a discussion of the various alternative theories on Pacific Islander migrations.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8 Grun, Bernard. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Timetables of History, A Horizontal Likage of People and Events</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1991. Simon and Schuster, New York, p. 5. Finney and Houston’s (1966) timeframe for Polynesian specific dates.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">9 Buck, 1965, p. 23.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10 Fuller, Buckminister. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Critical Path</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Humans in Universe,” p. 29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">11 Fuller, pp. 29-30.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">12 Fuller, p. 30.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">13 Buck, 1965, pp. 23-24.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">14 Finney, 1994, p. 28. See sketch of Lapita designs on p. 27.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">15 Fuller, p. 348.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">16 Buck, 1965, pp. 23-24.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">17 Campbell, 1989, p. 31-32.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">18 Finney, 1994, p. 29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">19 Finney, 1994, p. 26. See distribution map of Austronesian language groups and oceangoing canoes, Figure 2, p. 16.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">20 Begining date taken from Kawaharada, Dennis, “The Polynesian Settlement of the Pacific,” 3.1.2., ©1995 by the Polynesian Voyaging Society, Honolulu, Hawai’i.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">21 Campbell, 1989, p. 32. See migration map on p. 33.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">22 Michener, James. Hawaii.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">23 Buck, Peter. Vikings of the Sunrise, ©1938, Lippincott, Philadelphia, PA.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">24 Bryan, E.H. “Astronomy and the Calendar,” chapter 23 of Ancient Hawaiian Civilization, A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools, ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 252.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">25 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">26 Buck, 1965, pp. 26-27.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">27 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">28 Bryan, 1965, p. 252. The “seven little sisters” appearance in November marked the beginning of the Polynesian year and was a season of great festivity.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">29 Bryan, 1965, p. 252.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">30 Buck, 1965, pp. 26-27.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">31 Buck, 1965, p. 27.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">32 Kawaharada, 3.1.2, “The Polynesian Settlement of the Pacific.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">33 Buck, 1965, pp. 27-28.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">34 Buck, 1965, p. 28.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">35 Date taken from Kawaharada, 1995.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">36 Campbell, 1989, pp. 32-33. Thor Heyerdahl’s epic raft voyage of the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon Tiki</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> popularized the possibility of an emigration from South America, but nearly all scientific evidence points in the opposite direction.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">37 Finney & Houston, 1996, p. 21.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">38 Kirch, Patrick. Quoted in Kawaharada. Kirch has done extensive archaeological work within the Polynesian Triangle. See also Green, Roger, 1966 for linguistic sub-groupings within Polynesia</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">39 Kawaharada, 1995, 3.1.3, “The Settlement of Hawaii.” See Elbert, Samuel H. “Lexical Diffusion in Polynesia and the Marquesan-Hawaiian Relationship,” </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Journal of the Polynesian Society</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Volume 91, Number 4, December 1982, p. 505.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">40 Kawaharada, 1995, points out that archaeology of the Pacific is “still in its infancy” and that more evidence is needed to be conclusive.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">41 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">42 Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An Account of the Polynesian Race, Its Origin and Migrations</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, and the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient History of the Hawaiian People to the Times of Kamehameha I</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,” Vol I-III, ©1969, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont. Fornander has Hawai’i-loa coming from the Marshall Islands in Micronesia.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">43 See Chapter 4, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Polynesian Legends</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Hawai’iloa.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">44 Kawaharada, 1995, 3.1.1, “Exploration and Discovery.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">45 Buck, 1965, p. 24.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">46 Grun, 1991, p. 30.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">47 Campbell, 1989, p. 33. Kawaharada has the discovery of Hawai‘i at around 400 A.D.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">48 Grun, 1991, circa 800 A.D., p. 87.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">49 Blake, Thomas. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfriders</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1935</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1983, published by Mountain and Sea, Redondo Beach, California. Originally entitled </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1935, Paradise of the Pacific Press, Honolulu, Hawai‘i, p. 31.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">50 Fornander, 1969, Vol. 3, p. 6.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">51 Buck, 1965, p. 31.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">52 Fornander, 1969, Vol, 3, p. 5</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">53 Buck, 1965, p. 31. He has the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ali‘i</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> voyages between 1000 and 1200 A.D.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">54 Buck, 1965, p. 31</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">55 Buck, 1965, p. 32.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">56 Buck, 1965, pp. 32-33. The voyages of Lono-mai-kahiki and Kalana mentioned in passing.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">57 Buck, 1965, p. 33. Buck says these voyages extended from the 10th to 12th centuries.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">58 Buck, 1938,. pp. 228-236.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">59 http://www.pvs-hawaii.com/Education/ed_curr_history.htm. Website visited September 2003.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">60 Buck 1938, pp. 228-236. There is a longer version published in Thomas S. Barthel’s </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Eighth Land: The Polynesian Settlement of Easter Island</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Honolulu: University of Hawai’i 1978; originally published in German in 1974). Other versions are found in W.J. Thomson’s “Te Pito Te Henua, or Easter Island” in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Report of the United States National Museum 1889</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Washington D.C.: 1891, pp. 447-552); Katherine Routledge’s The Mystery of Easter Island (London: 1919; pp. 277-280); and Alfred Metraux’s </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ethnology of Easter Island</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (Honolulu: Bishop Museum Press, 1971, pp. 55-75; originally published in 1940).</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">61 Buck, 1938,. pp. 228-236.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">62 Buck, 1965, pp. 33-34.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">63 Buck, 1965, pp. 28-29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">64 Buck, 1965, pp. 28-29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">65 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Dictionary of New Zealand English</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, by H.W. Orsman, OUP, Auckland 1998, lists Aotearoa as being a translation of the Maori name for the whole of New Zealand. It is possible the name was meant originally to refer just to the North Island.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">66 Buck, 1965, pp. 28-29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">67 Buck, 1965, pp. 28-29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">68 Buck, 1965, pp. 29-30.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">69 Buck, 1965, pp. 30-31.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">70 Maori song. See Buck, 1965, p. 31.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">71 Emory, Kenneth P. “Navigation,” chapter 22 of </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont. Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 241.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">72 Fuller, R. Buckminister. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Critical Path</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1981, St. Martin’s Press, N.Y., N.Y., p. 351, “Chronology of Scientific Discoveries and Artifacts.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">73 Emory, 1965, pp. 241-242.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">74 Jarves, James J. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Scenes and Scenery in the Sandwich Islands</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in London, England, 1844. Quoted in Blake, p. 32. Probably Blake’s parenthesis.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">75 Emory, 1965, p. 242. See also Fornander, Vol. 3, pp. 8-9. This was probably the remanants of Kanea‘aiai, a war canoe of Kamehameha I.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">76 Blake, 1983, p. 32.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">77 Emory, 1965, pp. 242-243.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">78 Blake, 1983, p. 32.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">79 Emory, pp. 242-243. See picture,on page 243, of a model of “A Double Sailing Canoe from the Tuamotus,” which, according to Emory, “were the finest vessels in the Southeast.” The model was made in 1854, of a canoe then in existence. It was 60 feet long, 14 feet wide, 5 feet 8 inches deep, and carried 60 passengers.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">80 Emory, 1965, p. 244.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">81 Emory, 1965, pp. 245-246. See Finney, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Voyage of Rediscovery</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1994, for more detail on traditional Polynesian double-hulled canoe design.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">82 Emory, 1965, pp. 245-246. See Finney, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Voyage of Rediscovery</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, 1994, for more detail on traditional Polynesian double-hulled canoe design.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">83 Emory, 1965, p. 246.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">84 Bryan, E.H. “Astronomy and the Calendar,” chapter 23 of </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization, A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 251.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">85 Emory, 1965, pp. 247-248.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">86 Corney, B.G. (ed.). </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Quest and Occupation of Tahiti by Emissaries of Spain During the Years 1772-6</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (3 vols.), London: Hakluyt Society, 1913-1919, Vol. II, 284-287. The account is from the journal of Andia Y Varela, who visited in Tahiti in 1774.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">87 Corney, Vol. II, 284-287. The account is from the journal of Andia Y Varela, who visited in Tahiti in 1774.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">88 Emory, 1965, p. 248</span></span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><br /><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-23728911423214676842022-07-02T03:33:00.002-07:002022-08-26T04:53:22.088-07:00Austronesian Voyages<p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and Welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Austronesian Voyages</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG2RtGgHY3apQkFARkHTf4AGKhPOiLK5ckD0wz7BMpMMKPFxAX2E0_iKfj200sT_BZrxAr3uvwu5uJByBz0n9M-Ipqcyf2tI3u09axNtI6Tn0uJI2m3Q6ckjGU_DWd85ll8khsI8LFQ5hug-KmXHaEvGSy0RYxrx12RoIgcRJPo-KJybmT2t2uRq612w/s702/trig.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="702" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG2RtGgHY3apQkFARkHTf4AGKhPOiLK5ckD0wz7BMpMMKPFxAX2E0_iKfj200sT_BZrxAr3uvwu5uJByBz0n9M-Ipqcyf2tI3u09axNtI6Tn0uJI2m3Q6ckjGU_DWd85ll8khsI8LFQ5hug-KmXHaEvGSy0RYxrx12RoIgcRJPo-KJybmT2t2uRq612w/s320/trig.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-8ae98ae5-7fff-d8c5-288d-cf1fb18b981b"><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As noted in </span><a href="https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/06/polynesian-beginnings.html" style="text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="color: #1155cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Austronesians</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, there is a gap commonly referred to as the “Long Pause” between the first populating of Western Polynesia including Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa among others and the settlement of the rest of the region. In general this gap is considered to have lasted roughly 1,000 years.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> The cause of this gap in voyaging is contentious among archaeologists with a number of competing theories presented including climate shifts,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> the need for the development of new voyaging techniques,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and cultural shifts.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the Long Pause, dispersion of populations into central and eastern Polynesia began. Although the exact timing of when each island group was settled is debated, it is widely accepted that the island groups in the geographic center of the region (i.e. the Cook Islands, Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, etc.) were settled initially between 1,000 and 1,150 CE,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and ending with more far flung island groups such as Hawaii, New Zealand, and Easter Island settled between 1,200 and 1,300 CE.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As surfers, we can’t help but wonder: where along this migration did riding on wooden surfboards begin? Or, did it not begin until Polynesians settled Hawaii? Or, did Austronesian board riding exist even before the migrations?</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although Polynesia is usually credited with being the birthplace of stand-up surfboard riding, </span><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">University of Hawai‘i anthropology</span><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">professor</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and early surf historian Ben Finney noted that surfing was not limited to Polynesia. In his </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboarding in Oceania: Its Pre-European Distribution</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Finney wrote that an “extensive examination of the available sources has shown that surfboarding was known in Polynesia, Micronesia, and Melanesia. In fact, surfboarding was practiced in Oceania from New Guinea in the West, to Easter Island in the East, and from Hawai‘i in the North to New Zealand in the South.” Finney cited sightings of various forms of primitive surfing in places as diverse as Owa Raha in the Solomon Islands (observed in 1949); to Yap in the Western Carolines (observed by a colleague); and south in the New Hebrides and Fiji. “With reservations,” Finney concluded, this “wide distribution would seem to indicate that surfboarding is a general Oceanic sport, rather than a specifically Polynesian sport.”3</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Decades after writing that, however, Finney further clarified that – lest one be easily tempted to look elsewhere than Polynesia for wave riding standing up on wooden boards – “Indigenous board-surfing in the Pacific was most highly developed on islands within the Polynesian Triangle bounded by Hawai’i, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and Aotearoa (New Zealand). Early reports of surfing along the shores of islands from New Guinea to Polynesia indicate that this sport, at least in its rudimentary form, was part of the common heritage of the seafaring people who spread across the Pacific thousands of years ago.”4</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Undeniably, surfing grew in a culture that called the ocean its home. It was practiced by a people who were humankind’s first true ocean traversing seafarers. The Polynesian ancestral migration via ocean-going canoes was the greatest dispersal of any nautically-based culture the world has ever seen.5</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Polynesians are a race of people that I.C. Campbell, author of </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A History of the Pacific Islands</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> noted, grew from “a small population of mixed origins, developing distinctive racial and cultural characteristics” around 1500 B.C.7 This was about the same time that advanced ship-building was taking place in the Mediterranean and Scandinavia.8</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The ancestors of the Polynesians developed the knowledge of sea craft using a single outrigger canoe, becoming a seafaring people in that way. By making voyages between the large islands of Indonesia, they developed the basic sailing knowledge that was ultimately to lead their larger canoes to the farthest lands in the Pacific Ocean.9</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A key to the long voyages of the Polynesians across the Pacific Ocean was trigonometry. “It is the conclusion of British, German, and U.S.A. navies’ experts,'' writer and visionary Buckminister Fuller wrote in his book </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Critical Path</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “that celestial – offshore – navigation began with the South Pacific’s island peoples. Much has been published on this subject. What is not as well published is the fact that the navigators on all those islands live entirely apart from the other humans in their native groups.”10</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Offshore,” Fuller continued, “with no familiar landmarks to guide them, early water-peoples learned through necessity and invention how to sail their ships on courses running between any two well-recognized stars co-occurring diametrically opposite one another above the sky’s circular horizon at various given times of the night and reliably reappearing in the same pattern in any geographical area on any given day of the year. Any two prominent, easy-to-recognize stars in the sky gave the unique course for the ship to follow. The point on the mast, B, at which the bright star in the sky toward which they sailed occurred at any given time of observation, and the point C, at which the boom of their sail contacted the mast, and the point A, at which the stern-standing or sitting helmsman’s eye occurs, gave the three corner points of the right triangle whose three angles, A, B, and C, always sum-totaled 180 degrees. This 180-degree sum-total angular constancy of any plane triangle formed the basis of all plane trigonometry.”11</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“If one of the three angles of a triangle is a right angle,” Buckminister Fuller went on, “then all the variation takes place only between the two other angles, whose angular sum will always equal that of the constant right angle (ninety degrees).</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“With their ship’s (or raft’s) masts mounted perpendicularly (at right angles, vertically) to their ship’s or hull’s waterline, they steered the ship at night by keeping the mast always lined on the approaching star – as long as the Earth’s rotation allowed the sight of that star to remain in a usable line of sight. The angle of elevation of the approached star could be sightingly measured by the helmsman observing, from the stern, the star’s ever-changing height on the mast as sightingly identified, for instance, by the mast’s sail-luff rings, which elevation altered at the Earth revolved during the night within the spheric array of Universe stars. With days, months, years, and lifetimes of such observing, measuring, and calculating, the sea-people gradually evolved trigonometry.”12</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1st Migration</span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As previously mentioned in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Polynesian Beginnings</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, there are three general theories on the timeframe of the Austronesian migrations across the Pacific. I subscribe to the “Slow Boat” model and use it here. No matter what model you think most likely, the first migration of the ancestors of the Polynesians eastwards involved neither large numbers nor one time period. Rather, “small groups, owing to pressure from behind, moved out and effected landings” on islands east of the Malay Archipelago, separately.13</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Further anthropological “work in Melanesia and along the western frontier of Polynesia has confirmed,” wrote Ben Finney in 1994, “that Polynesia was first settled from islands to the west. Through a type of pottery, decorated with distinctively stamped patterns and called Lapita after a site in New Caledonia where it was found in abundance, archaeologists have been able to trace the migration of seafaring peoples who were directly ancestral to the Polynesians from islands of the Bismarck Archipelago off the northeast coast of New Guinea eastward through Melanesia to Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa at the western edge of what was to become Polynesia, where they appear to have arrived between 1500 B.C. and 1000 B.C.”14 about the time the Phoenicians were developing phonetic spelling.15</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In islands already occupied,” speculated Pearl S. Buck, “the immigrants exercised diplomacy or force to maintain their occupation. The first pioneers were followed up by other groups.... Thus there were movements of small groups or expeditions seeking new homes and such movements probably extended over a fair period of time. When the opposition encountered in the various islands was strong, the [migrant] ... group was forced to move on after periods of armed rest. So the movements to the east continued until unoccupied islands were discovered that could be converted into permanent homes.”16</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I.C. Campbell wrote that the “island groups of Tonga, Samoa and Fiji were... settled at about the same time, by a highly mobile population which ranged widely over the western Pacific. Having reached the Fiji-Tonga-Samoa area, the settlers then lost contact with the islands to the west. For perhaps a thousand years, these people developed a distinctive culture based on the resources available close at hand...”17</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The seafaring migrants who left a trail of Lapita pottery along their route were the immediate ancestors of the Polynesians. They were not, themselves, identifiably Polynesian. Present indications are that ancestral Polynesian culture, the proto-Polynesian language, and the characteristic Polynesian physical type developed in and around the archipelagos of Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa, not on any other distant archipelago or adjacent continental shores. “Strictly speaking,” wrote Ben Finney, “there was no migration of Polynesians to Polynesia... although their immediate ancestors came from the Western Pacific, the Polynesians came from Polynesia.”18</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Archaeologists cannot yet specify the exact seaway by which these Lapita voyagers entered the Pacific,” Finney also noted, adding “the most likely route was from the island region of northeast Indonesia and the southern Philippines eastward along the northern coast of New Guinea to the Bismarck Archipelago. Beyond this, however, the trail of people speaking Austronesian languages ancestral to these seafarers is still subject to much speculation...”19</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2nd Migration</span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Melanesia, a second phase of migration began around 300 B.C. and lasted to about 300 A.D.20 with Polynesians landing at Hiva – known also as the Marquesas Islands.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Expeditions well equipped with food plants, domesticated animals, craft specialists, and, of course, both women and men,” wrote Campbell, “arrived almost certainly from </span><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Samoa, at the Marquesas, a distance of over 3000 kilometers, against the prevailing winds and ocean currents, certainly by the fourth century A.D., probably earlier.”21</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If we are to imagine what it must have been like for a Polynesian pioneer group to sail the open ocean of the Pacific – a as did James Michener who wrote of one such fictitious journey in the opening chapters of his novel </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaii</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22 and Te Rangi Hiroa (Peter Buck) in his 1938 classic </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vikings of the Sunrise</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">23 – we can see that by stages and numbers of generations, Polynesians developed into seamen of marked ability and courage.24</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The canoes were navigated,” wrote Dennis Kawaharada of the Polynesian Voyaging Society, “without instruments by expert seafarers who depended on their observations of the ocean and sky and traditional knowledge of the patterns of nature for clues to the direction and location of islands. The canoe hulls were dug out from tree trunks with adzes or made from planks sewn together with a cordage of coconut fiber twisted into strands and braided for strength. Cracks and seams were sealed with coconut fibers and sap from breadfruit or other trees. An outrigger was attached to a single hull for greater stability on the ocean; two hulls were lashed together with crossbeams and a deck added between the hulls to create double canoes capable of voyaging long distances.”25</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“They used the single canoe for ordinary purposes,” wrote Buck, “but for voyages of any extent they used a second canoe in place of the ama or outrigger float. If they were acquainted with metals when they left Asia, their metal tools had long ago worn out and could not be replaced... They fell back upon stone to hew down trees and shape the wood into the seacraft required. In coral atolls where there was no stone they shaped the shells of the Tridacna into adzes. To supplement the paddles, they used triangular sails plaited from the leaves of the Pandanus. They had studied the signs of the skies and the vagaries of the ocean. They had named the stars that gave them direction and they were acquainted with the winds which blew from various points.”26</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The voyaging was by no means easy,” Kawaharada continued. “There was always a danger of swamping or capsizing in heavy seas, of having sails ripped apart or masts and booms broken by fierce winds, of smashing the hulls against unseen rocks or reefs; and while there were grass or leaf shelters on the decks of voyaging canoes, the voyagers were often exposed to the wind, rain, and sun, with only capes of leaves or bark-cloth wrappings for protection. A stormy night at sea, even in the tropics, can be brutally chilling. If supplies ran short during a long voyage, and no fish or rainwater replenished them, then starvation became a possibility. As a tradition about a voyage from Hiva to Rarotonga puts it: ‘The voyage was so long; food and water ran out. One hundred of the paddlers died; forty men remained.’“27</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As navigation aids, “They had a calendar based on the stages of the monthly moons [</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">mahina</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">],” wrote Peter Buck, “and an annual cycle that counted from certain positions of the Pleiades [</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">huihui</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> or </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">makali’i</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">].28 They knew the seasons of the westerly winds and the run of the constant trades. They knew the hurricane season and so could divide the year into a period when it was unsafe to brave the sea, and when good fortune might sit in the belly of their sails.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Above all they had leaders who had a supreme confidence in themselves and an intelligent priesthood who could not only placate the gods, but, more important still, read the signs of the heavens from the stars, the moon, the Milky Way [</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ka’u</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> – something stretching overhead],29 and even the Magellan clouds as guiding signs across the trackless ocean. They gazed east at the ‘hanging skies’ where heaven and earth met, and there grew up the urge to pierce through to the lands which they were convinced lay on the trail of a guiding star. Perhaps some push from behind sent an early wave in small and detached groups voyaging east into the unknown. That the push or the urge was great we may assume from the fact that they took their women folk with them. Thus by stages the islands of western Polynesia were discovered and settled. Perhaps quarrels as to chieftainship and prestige led small groups, perhaps even in single canoes, to make further expeditions to the east. So intervening islands and the central region of the Society Islands became occupied.”30</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From “traditional narratives,” continued Buck, and “the distribution of certain cultural elements,” it is known that these “earlier people were the pioneers who reached various islands and settled down without thought of returning whence they came... the early people had a simpler form of social organization in which the blood kinship of all members of the tribe was stressed. They deserve admiration for their achievements in peopling Polynesia. Unfortunately, the records of their voyages have been submerged by the traditional narratives of those who came later...”31</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The ethno botanical evidence reflects this progression of settlement from the Western Pacific islands,” wrote Dennis Kawaharada, “through central Polynesia (the Cook Islands, Society Islands, and Hiva), and then to Hawai’i. Of the 72 plants identified as having been transported to Polynesia by people, 41-45 are found in the Cook Islands, the Society Islands, and Hiva; 29 are found in Hawai’i, including taro, breadfruit, sugar cane, bamboo, ti, yam, banana, ‘awa, paper mulberry, kukui, coconut, gourd, sweet potato, and mountain apple. The settlers also brought the pig, dog, chicken, and rat along with them. The transport of plants and domesticated animals on voyaging canoes suggests that the early settlers planned to colonize Hawai’i, after having discovered its location.”32</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /></span><h2 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 4pt; margin-top: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 18pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3rd Migration</span></h2><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Those who came after the second migration became known as the Polynesians of The Long Voyages – foremost of those in the oral traditions of Polynesia. The Long Voyages were voyages “made from central Polynesia in organized expeditions under the leadership of ali’i or chiefs, with learned priests as navigators. They discovered unoccupied islands and also rediscovered islands already occupied by earlier people of the same stock.</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The voyages were actuated in the first instance by the spirit of pure adventure, the desire to break through the ‘hanging skies.’ In many instances, the voyagers returned to central Polynesia and not only related their discoveries but gave the directions by which the new lands might be reached. The crews consisted of picked men whose shoulders could bear the strain of the deep sea paddle. They were trained to endurance and to self-control with regard to food and water. They were brave men who feared neither adverse elements nor hostile forces. If they weathered the storm and emerged to a fair haven, all was well. If they were engulfed in the waters of the great ocean, they went down as men. Such were the terms applied to the early voyagers in the native narratives and today they give a thrill of pride to those of us who come of such stock.”33</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The earlier voyagers of the Long Voyages took no women or food plants with them. The later voyagers took not only women, but also “cultivable food plants,” wrote Te Rangi Hiroa, “and so the coconut, taro, yam, and sweet potato were spread through Polynesia. Where people of the early period were in occupation, conflict sooner or later occurred but in the end the ali’i chiefs of the later wave acquired dominance and rule. Though traditional narratives state that the earlier wave was conquered and practically exterminated, it is certain that such accounts have been exaggerated. The two peoples intermarried and fused. The earlier people formed the mass of the common people while the later ali’i families became the leaders and rulers...”34</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The third and final trans-Pacific migration began soon after the Polynesians sank their roots into Hiva [Marquesas Islands], around 300 A.D.35 From the Marquesas, the settlement of eastern Polynesia followed over the next few hundred years. Expeditions of migration set out from time to time, and in due course came to major locations like Easter Island, Tahiti, and the Hawaiian Islands.36</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first canoes reached Hawai‘i by at least A.D. 400.37</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The people who first settled Hawai‘i came from Hiva. Evidence of this is both linguistic and biological. “Indeed,” wrote archaeologist Patrick Kirch, “the close relationship between the Hawaiian and Marquesan languages as well as between the physical populations constitutes strong and mutually corroborative evidence that the early Hawaiians came from the Marquesas.”38</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The Marquesan language,” wrote Kawaharada, “has been grouped under the category Proto Central Eastern Polynesian, along with Hawaiian, Tahitian, Tuamotuan, Rarotongan, and Maori. Vocabulary comparisons seem to indicate that the dialect of the Southern Marquesan Islands (Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva), is the closest relative of Hawaiian language.”39</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hiva is certainly the best departure point for sailing to Hawai‘i from the South Pacific and archaeological evidence connects Hawai‘i’s early settlers with Hiva adzes, fishhooks and pendants found at an early settlement site at Ka Lae on the Big Island.40 However, it is probably too simplistic to attribute the settlement of any island group to a single migration from another single island group.41</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Hawaiian legends recorded by Abraham Fornander in </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An Account of the Polynesian Race, Its Origin and Migrations</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, it is postulated that Hawai‘i was first discovered by a Polynesian by the name of Hawai‘i-loa.42 The legend and geneology of Hawai‘iloa is, indeed, the most accepted of those credited for discovering Hawai‘i.43 Two others mentioned in Polynesian legends for the act include a Tahitian and a Maori:</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A Tahitian legend is retold in Teuira Henry‘s </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Tahiti</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. It attributes the discovery of Hawai’i to a voyaging hero named Tafa’i (Kaha’i, in Hawaiian). Tafa’i “cut the sinews” of the islands of Tahiti, fished along the islands of the Tuamotu Archipelago, and then “went exploring the trackless ocean northward.”44</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The divergence of a Polynesian ancestor from a general easterly route to a northeast course that would lead to Hawai’i,” noted Buck, “is also recorded in Maori tradition. The date of this voyage has been placed by Percy Smith as the year 450 A.D.,”45 about the time of Attila’s death and the sacking of Rome by the Vandals.46</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Whoever was the first, it was in the later part of this third period of migrations, that Tahiti became a base for further expeditions to Hawai‘i, the Cook Islands and New Zealand. “By about 800 A.D., all the habitable land in the eastern Pacific had been found and occupied. Some of these lands were, obviously, extremely small and remote.47 In terms of world history, the only other significant seagoing explorations on the planet at that time had been made by Irish travelers reaching Iceland and Vikings discovering the Faroe Islands between Norway and Iceland – relatively modest discoveries when compared to the Polynesian migrations.48</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Early 1900s surfer and first person to write a book about surfing and its history, Tom Blake, marveled, “No more daring and courageous sea journeys are to be found in history.” 49</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /><br /><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Footnotes</span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1 </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hopupu</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, vs. emotionally excited, as with hate, love, lust. See Pukui, Mary Kawena and Elbert, Samuel H. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Dictionary</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1986 by the University of Hawai’i, Honolulu, Hawai’i. See also Lueras, Leonard. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, the Ultimate Pleasure</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1984, Workman Publishing, New York, p. 31 </span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">2 Finney, Ben R. and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing, The Sport of Hawaiian Kings</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, © 1966, C.E. Tuttle Company, Rutland, Vermont. This work is based on Finney’s 1959 M.A. thesis at the University of Hawai‘i. He was assisted in the writing of the book by Houston, pp. 24-34. At the time, the estimate was 1500 B.C. to 400 A.D. See also Finney, Ben and Houston, James D. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfing: A History of the Ancient Hawaiian Sport</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1996. Published by Pomegranate Artbooks, Rohnert Park, California, p. 21. Estimate adjusted for 2000 B.C. to before 400 A.D.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">3 Finney, Ben Rudolph. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfboarding in Oceania: Its Pre-European Distribution</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1959. See also Lueras, p. 34.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">4 Finney and Houston,1996, p. 22. See map of the Polynesian Triangle, same page.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">5 Stecyk, C.R. “Hot Curl,” </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Surfer’s Journal</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Vol. 3, No. 2, Summer 1994, p. 64.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">6 Buck, Peter H. “Polynesian Migrations,” chapter two of </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Hawaiian Civilization</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools,” ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont. Te Rangi Hiroa was better known in the outside world by his European name. Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 23.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">7 Campbell, I. C. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A History of the Pacific Islands</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1989, University of California Press, Berkeley, California, p. 31-32. See also </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Man’s Conquest of the Pacific, the Prehistory of South East Asia and Oceana</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, by Peter Bellwood, ©1979, Oxford University Press, New York. This is the definitive work on the prehistory of the Pacific. It includes a discussion of the various alternative theories on Pacific Islander migrations.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">8 Grun, Bernard. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Timetables of History, A Horizontal Likage of People and Events</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1991. Simon and Schuster, New York, p. 5. Finney and Houston’s (1966) timeframe for Polynesian specific dates.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">9 Buck, 1965, p. 23.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">10 Fuller, Buckminister. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Critical Path</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Humans in Universe,” p. 29.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">11 Fuller, pp. 29-30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">12 Fuller, p. 30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">13 Buck, 1965, pp. 23-24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">14 Finney, 1994, p. 28. See sketch of Lapita designs on p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">15 Fuller, p. 348.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">16 Buck, 1965, pp. 23-24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">17 Campbell, 1989, p. 31-32.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">18 Finney, 1994, p. 29.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">19 Finney, 1994, p. 26. See distribution map of Austronesian language groups and oceangoing canoes, Figure 2, p. 16.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">20 Begining date taken from Kawaharada, Dennis, “The Polynesian Settlement of the Pacific,” 3.1.2., ©1995 by the Polynesian Voyaging Society, Honolulu, Hawai’i.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">21 Campbell, 1989, p. 32. See migration map on p. 33.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">22 Michener, James. Hawaii.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">23 Buck, Peter. Vikings of the Sunrise, ©1938, Lippincott, Philadelphia, PA.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">24 Bryan, E.H. “Astronomy and the Calendar,” chapter 23 of Ancient Hawaiian Civilization, A Series of Lectures Delivered at the Kamehameha Schools, ©1965, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Ninth Printing, 1981, p. 252.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">25 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">26 Buck, 1965, pp. 26-27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">27 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">28 Bryan, 1965, p. 252. The “seven little sisters” appearance in November marked the beginning of the Polynesian year and was a season of great festivity.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">29 Bryan, 1965, p. 252.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">30 Buck, 1965, pp. 26-27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">31 Buck, 1965, p. 27.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">32 Kawaharada, 3.1.2, “The Polynesian Settlement of the Pacific.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">33 Buck, 1965, pp. 27-28.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">34 Buck, 1965, p. 28.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">35 Date taken from Kawaharada, 1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">36 Campbell, 1989, pp. 32-33. Thor Heyerdahl’s epic raft voyage of the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kon Tiki</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> popularized the possibility of an emigration from South America, but nearly all scientific evidence points in the opposite direction.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">37 Finney & Houston, 1996, p. 21.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">38 Kirch, Patrick. Quoted in Kawaharada. Kirch has done extensive archaeological work within the Polynesian Triangle. See also Green, Roger, 1966 for linguistic sub-groupings within Polynesia</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">39 Kawaharada, 1995, 3.1.3, “The Settlement of Hawaii.” See Elbert, Samuel H. “Lexical Diffusion in Polynesia and the Marquesan-Hawaiian Relationship,” </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Journal of the Polynesian Society</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, Volume 91, Number 4, December 1982, p. 505.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">40 Kawaharada, 1995, points out that archaeology of the Pacific is “still in its infancy” and that more evidence is needed to be conclusive.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">41 Kawaharada, 1995.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">42 Fornander, Abraham. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An Account of the Polynesian Race, Its Origin and Migrations</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, and the </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient History of the Hawaiian People to the Times of Kamehameha I</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">,” Vol I-III, ©1969, C.E. Tuttle Company, Inc., Rutland, Vermont. Fornander has Hawai’i-loa coming from the Marshall Islands in Micronesia.</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">43 See Chapter 4, </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Ancient Polynesian Legends</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, “Hawai’iloa.”</span></span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">44 Kawaharada, 1995, 3.1.1, “Exploration and Discovery.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">45 Buck, 1965, p. 24.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">46 Grun, 1991, p. 30.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">47 Campbell, 1989, p. 33. Kawaharada has the discovery of Hawai‘i at around 400 A.D.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">48 Grun, 1991, circa 800 A.D., p. 87.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">49 Blake, Thomas. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfriders</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1935</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, ©1983, published by Mountain and Sea, Redondo Beach, California. Originally entitled </span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hawaiian Surfboard</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, published in 1935, Paradise of the Pacific Press, Honolulu, Hawai‘i, p. 31.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><br /></span>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-87433749002124900542022-06-22T02:51:00.005-07:002022-07-02T02:54:15.843-07:00Austronesians<p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; white-space: pre-wrap;">Aloha and welcome to this chapter segment in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series on <b>Austronesians</b>.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: justify; white-space: pre-wrap;">Each generation tends to call surfing its own. Yet, riding ocean waves on a platform of some sort has been a sport for thousands of years. Each generation gets thrilled by the act that defies our attempts to try to describe it. Although many attempts have been made and a number are worthy, the expression coined in the late Twentieth Century perhaps says it best: “Only A Surfer Knows the Feeling.” As surfers, we call that feeling “stoke.” The expression most likely came when the feeling was compared to getting a fire burning. You stoke the flame. Well, the waves stoke us surfers.</span></span></p><span id="docs-internal-guid-752525e6-7fff-ed71-17c2-13fa2f76829b"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As I’ve previously opinionated in <b><a href="https://legendary-surfers.blogspot.com/2022/02/surfings-origins.html" target="_blank">Surfing's Origins</a></b>, my feeling is that surfing is actually far older than any of us imagine and it's been practiced all over the world.</span></span></p><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Although surfing at some of these locations are documented (reed surfing in Peru 3,000 years ago and tidal bore surfing in the 10th century China) and appear to be earlier than Polynesian surfing, it is to riding on wooden boards on ocean waves by Austronesians in Polynesia that we as surfers trace our origins back to. Certainly, this is the surfing culture we most identify with</span></span><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: "CentSchbook BT"; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Polynesia is a sub-region of Oceania, the vast mostly aquatic expanse that Austronesian peoples migrated into and through, on various sizes of outrigger canoes. Polynesia is made up of more than 1,000 islands scattered over the central and southern Pacific Ocean. The indigenous people who inhabit the islands of Polynesia are called Polynesians. They have many things in common, including language relatedness, cultural practices, and traditional beliefs.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> In centuries past, they had a strong shared tradition of sailing and using stars to navigate at night.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Polynesia is one of three major cultural areas in the Pacific Ocean; Melanesia and Micronesia being the other two.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Polynesian people are considered – by linguistic, archaeological, and human genetic evidence – a subset of the sea-migrating Austronesian people. Tracing Polynesian languages places their prehistoric origins in Island Melanesia, Maritime Southeast Asia, and ultimately, in Taiwan.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Between about 3,000 and 1,000 BCE, speakers of Austronesian languages began spreading from Taiwan into Maritime Southeast Asia.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There are three theories regarding the spread of humans across the Pacific to Polynesia. These are outlined well by Kayser et al. (2000) and are as follows:</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Express Train model: A recent (c. 3,000–1,000 BCE) expansion out of Taiwan, via the Philippines and eastern Indonesia and from the northwest ("Bird's Head") of New Guinea, on to Island Melanesia by roughly 1400 BCE, reaching the western Polynesian islands around 900 BCE, followed by a roughly 1,000 year "pause" before continued settlement in central and eastern Polynesia. This theory is supported by the majority of current genetic, linguistic, and archaeological data.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Entangled Bank model: Emphasizes the long history of Austronesian speakers' cultural and genetic interactions with indigenous Island Southeast Asians and Melanesians along the way to becoming the first Polynesians.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Slow Boat model: Similar to the express-train model but with a longer hiatus in Melanesia along with admixture — genetically, culturally and linguistically — with the local population. This is supported by the Y-chromosome data of Kayser et al. (2000), which shows that all three haplotypes of Polynesian Y chromosomes can be traced back to Melanesia.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the archaeological record, there are well-defined traces of this expansion which allow the path it took to be followed and dated with some certainty. It is thought that by roughly 1,400 BCE, "Lapita Peoples", so-named after their pottery tradition, appeared in the Bismarck Archipelago of northwest Melanesia. This culture is seen as having adapted and evolved through time and space since its emergence "Out of Taiwan". They had given up rice production, for instance, which required paddy field agriculture unsuitable for small islands. However, they still cultivated other ancestral Austronesian staple cultigens like Dioscorea yams and taro, as well as adopting new ones like breadfruit and sweet potato.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Within a mere three or four centuries, between 1,300 and 900 BCE, the Lapita archaeological culture spread 6,000 km further to the east from the Bismarck Archipelago, until reaching as far as Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the chronology of the exploration and first populating of Polynesia, there is a gap commonly referred to as the long pause between the first populating of Western Polynesia including Fiji, Tonga, and Samoa among others and the settlement of the rest of the region. In general this gap is considered to have lasted roughly 1,000 years.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> The cause of this gap in voyaging is contentious among archaeologists with a number of competing theories presented including climate shifts,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> the need for the development of new voyaging techniques,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and cultural shifts.</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the long pause, dispersion of populations into central and eastern Polynesia began. Although the exact timing of when each island group was settled is debated, it is widely accepted that the island groups in the geographic center of the region (i.e. the Cook Islands, Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, etc.) were settled initially between 1,000 and 1,150 CE,</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> and ending with more far flung island groups such as Hawaii, New Zealand, and Easter Island settled between 1,200 and 1,300 CE.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 18pt;"><br /></p><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9-RzKIm3hGcF9tFhuavkiRilWfP97UR0cfKM0QWtGPzhS4WL5iXVwmYzCpul0UzuU7OtrGRGf_ZSE7OrKc8DyqtTkK46-51U_I9-_CfIUcaVzik71yAVMee8MvKWktYmtFf-pfIYToHwLV7IZnzFPWwA2WBSzqDhwZ_oDkO1Zg2qWW0Ob3-Aw0HwFjA/s1841/polymig1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1453" data-original-width="1841" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9-RzKIm3hGcF9tFhuavkiRilWfP97UR0cfKM0QWtGPzhS4WL5iXVwmYzCpul0UzuU7OtrGRGf_ZSE7OrKc8DyqtTkK46-51U_I9-_CfIUcaVzik71yAVMee8MvKWktYmtFf-pfIYToHwLV7IZnzFPWwA2WBSzqDhwZ_oDkO1Zg2qWW0Ob3-Aw0HwFjA/s320/polymig1.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00HU2v4wnq_cewHAucRpoLuWCvX1s88WRLHhwHbmdr3eG7eGt7ylxJJUB3AVIBrMtpcfaKYSN1A99d-ncPtaabZfIeZSiDPl2IbiSttgY3I_dD5ITJU1vFn7g6n8SSwKhOqiJQlR5PbhN05nQ-F0d0Vqd5JQ2iyd8KXqr-KKyrc2Fv2vaSOWDLbQGXQ/s2101/polymig2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1564" data-original-width="2101" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00HU2v4wnq_cewHAucRpoLuWCvX1s88WRLHhwHbmdr3eG7eGt7ylxJJUB3AVIBrMtpcfaKYSN1A99d-ncPtaabZfIeZSiDPl2IbiSttgY3I_dD5ITJU1vFn7g6n8SSwKhOqiJQlR5PbhN05nQ-F0d0Vqd5JQ2iyd8KXqr-KKyrc2Fv2vaSOWDLbQGXQ/s320/polymig2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-50225623394141708442022-06-05T01:33:00.005-07:002022-08-26T04:53:58.157-07:00Surf Wear<p>Aloha and Welcome to this chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS collection covering SURF WEAR. It was originally written in the 1990s and appears here as written, with no changes. It was somewhat of a draft chapter at the time (i.e. needing more work) and now with the passage of even more time, it really needs a lot of work! But, "it is what it is" and I hope that even with its limitations, it stokes you!</p><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span>Malcolm Gault-Williams</span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span><br /></span></div><div><span>Another fun read on surf wear is Ben Marcus's TRUNK IT: </span></div><div><span><a href="http://www.benmarcusrules.com/trunk-it-waikiki-1906-wwii-california-1947">http://www.benmarcusrules.com/trunk-it-waikiki-1906-wwii-california-1947</a><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjtsMo1tbGYqVMMSCzl2oV1yY13oRLiEai5B04POTWvaN5nwW-hSLAQI-y7wDgFTMkE9QL0no-A0ECktr2PetEQUJq2Uj55v_BhbJQr7yPVCNATqMIfg1IP9RW-j1DnLVoQV2sn6I515PbVDDe3t812rh2OOmuoXncS3er9WIB5x45qz_sLMTSbDMgK-w" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="244" data-original-width="360" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjtsMo1tbGYqVMMSCzl2oV1yY13oRLiEai5B04POTWvaN5nwW-hSLAQI-y7wDgFTMkE9QL0no-A0ECktr2PetEQUJq2Uj55v_BhbJQr7yPVCNATqMIfg1IP9RW-j1DnLVoQV2sn6I515PbVDDe3t812rh2OOmuoXncS3er9WIB5x45qz_sLMTSbDMgK-w" width="320" /></a></div><br /><br /></div></div><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: center; text-indent: 36pt;"><br /></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">surf trunks</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> or </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">surftrunks </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">n.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> A swimsuit designed especially for surfing; made of heavy-duty fabric, double stitched, with a pocket for a bar of wax in the rear.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">jams </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">n.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Very colorful swim trunks, almost knee-length and usually loose to the point of bagginess. Dave Rochlen started the jams trend in the early 1960s with the original Surf Line Jams, which were brightly colored Hawaiian-print trunks, cut just above the knee; every surfer wore them (GN). See BAGGIES.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">baggies </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">or </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">baggys</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">n.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Large, over-sized, loose-fitting, boxer-type swim trunks that are considerably longer in the legs than regular surf shorts and are worn by surfers for a show or comfort; usually made of Hawaiian print (IDSM).</span></p><br /><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There’s this line from an old 1960s advertisement for surf trunks -- “The sport’s seminal piece of tribal garb, a ritual costume that has singularly defined a culture.”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> -- “It calls surf trunks the last thing you think about and the first thing you grab,” recalled Kanvas by Katin‘s Rick Lohr. “It’s still that way. And the trunks really haven’t changed that much. Colors may come in and go out of style. The fit might change a little bit. But the bottom line is... Next to our surfboards, they are the closest thing to surfing that we own.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Nudity to Skirts</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although surf wear is now a multi-million dollar business within an industry in large part fueled by the sale of clothes for surfers and those who want to look like surfers, surfing attire has not always been around. Believe it or not, when surf wear first began, its implementation was controversial. The evolution of surf trunks, particularly, was a gradual thing -- just like the evolution of surfboards themselves; highly responsive to the particular needs of the surfing lifestyle.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In pre-missionary Hawai`i and Polynesia, there was no such thing as clothing to wrap the surfer in. Ancient surfers -- men, women and children -- surfed in the nude. Sometime between 1830 and the late 1880s, “probably due to missionary influence, early surf trunks took the form of loin cloths“ in Hawaii. By the turn of the century, wrote 1960s surfing champion Nat Young, “In Australia, where the life saving movement was just beginning, tank tops were popular.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The issue of nudity being the first controversy over surfing attire, or lack thereof, the second one occurred in Australia, in 1907, at Waverly, Randwick and Manly beaches. Although stand-up board surfing was yet to arrive, Australians were getting serious about body surfing. The mayors of these communities issued “a directive that all bathers, irrespective of sex, had to wear skirts!” Marveled Nat Young in his </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">History of Surfing</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">. “This was provoked by the fact that men were lying on the beach wearing V trunks and women were wearing light, gauzy material which when wet clung too closely to be ‘decent!’ The councils decreed that surfers should wear a costume which consisted of ‘a guernsey with trouser legs, reaching from the elbow to the bend of the knee, together with a skirt, not unsightly, attached to the garment, covering the figure from hips to knees’... both sexes had to be covered apron-fashion.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Needless to say, the bathing public would have none of this. In order to mock the regulations the bathers organised a march from Bondi to the city, with a dead seagull on a stick as a banner. Many men wore petticoats, some with yards of lace and embroidery trailing in the dust behind. Some wore red flannels; others decorated themselves with ballet frills around their bulging bellies. A few wore chaff bags with the ends lopped off or kitchen curtains. It was a hilarious occasion, with the law flaunted once again; after that the Australian authorities fell in with what was being worn in Europe and America, and local surfers wore woolen neck-to-knee costumes.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From Woolens to Cutoffs</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After this, the 1900s was relatively quiet when it came to swim suits -- that is, if you discount the arrivals of the bikini, in the early 1960s, and the butt thong in the 1980s!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the early 1900s, </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Malahini</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (tourist) surfers sported woolen tank-suit styles popular at Waikiki. Around 1935, at Waikiki, “Bathing-style” trunks were popularized by surfing pioneer and innovator Tom Blake and Olympic champion Johnny Weismuller. Narrow, rigid waistband and two-inch inseams were the features of these early precursors of the modern surf trunk. In the 1940s, surf trunks were featured on the cover of </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vogue</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> magazine in an action shot from Hawai`i. Duke Kahanamoku, “The Father of Surfing,” traded his older style Olympic swim suits for short trunks, some of which were beginning to be sewn with drawstrings attached, to aid the wearer in turbulent surf conditions.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">According to big wave surf legend Greg “Da Bull” Noll, the late 1940s was when the true surf trunk was worn, first at the Manhattan Beach Surf Club, Manhattan Beach, California. “The long boardshorts or baggies that surfers wear today probably can be attributed to coming out of a contest that Dale Velzy, Barney Briggs and a couple of other guys decided to hold,” Noll recalls. “They’d go to the Salvation Army shop, buy white sailor pants and cut them off just below the knees. They lived in these pants. By nature, anyone living the kind of bohemian lifestyle that Velzy and the others did would be pretty scroungy and dirty. Being in the water so much, they actually stayed pretty clean.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The rule governing this contest was that you had to live in these cutoffs day after day, surfing, dating, whatever. You could only unzip them in the presence of your girlfriend or to go to the bathroom. Then the pants could come down to your knees. Otherwise, they had to stay on your body. I think the contest went on for about a month before Barney gave up and Velzy was finally declared the winner.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">M. Nii, H. Miura Trunks</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In the early 1950s, H. Miura General Store began selling surfers school gym shorts with stripes down the leg in school colors. Red and white Wailua High colors were considered “very cool.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">1960s champion surfer Mike Doyle remembered, “The first modern-style surf trunks I ever saw were made by a little Filipino who had a tailor shop at Waianae, south of Makaha. His name was M. Nii. The surfers at Makaha were always going in there to get their torn trunks mended, and this fellow realized there was a market for a better surf trunk. So he started making his own. In the island tradition of colorful silk shirts, he started experimenting around with bright and exotic colors, different panels in varying colors, a wax pocket in back, and surfer stripes down the sides. Before long the M. Nii trunks became famous. Every surfer who went to Hawaii had to have a pair of M. Nii trunks, and more often than not, he had a whole list of orders for M. Nii trunks from his friends back home.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By 1952, most California surfing transplants were buying custom-made surfing trunks from M. Nii’s in Waianae. Nii’s “Makaha Drowner“ is considered by many to be the first, true surf trunk. Greg Noll confirmed the value of M. Nii surf trunks. “When we first went to the Islands, these pants [M. Nii’s custom-made surftrunks] were kind of a trendy deal. You see us wearing them in a lot of the old pictures. Eventually, we started going to M. Nii’s in Wainae and having white shorts made with stripes down the side and a pocket for our board wax. That was a big deal, to go to Hawaii and have M. Nii make your surftrunks. They caught on everywhere we went and were prized on the Mainland. We’d bring M. Nii’s trunks back to our friends.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beach Mothers</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Back on 1950s Mainland USA, there were no commercial surf trunks. As Mike Doyle continued, “When I first started surfing there was no such thing as surf trunks. We used to wear boxer shorts. We thought it was really cool to buy them about ten-inches too big in the waist so when we stood on the nose of the board, our shorts would fill up with air like big balloons. I don’t know why we thought that was cool, but the point was we were making our own fashion statement. When I was a kid surfing at Malibu, my mother made my surf trunks out of awning canvas. They were nearly indestructible and way ahead of their time: purple and black, with diamonds down the side, or quarter panels in different colors. Other surfers were always asking me, ‘Where’d you get your trunks?’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Years later Steve Pezman, who was the publisher of </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfer</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> magazine, told me, ‘You know, OP made millions of dollars selling surf trunks, and all they did was copy the trunks your mother made for you on her little treadle machine.’“</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">About the same time as the first commercial polyurethane foam boards became commercially available (1957), more and more beach mothers took to sewing their sons custom trunks -- not only Mrs. Doyle, but Mrs. Takayama, Plaudette Reed and Nancy Katin, among others.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Plaudette Reed was the wife of Bob Reed, City of Newport Beach Lifeguard Chief. They lived in an oceanfront house right on the strand in Newport. If you had a pair of custom trunks from one of the mothers, “it put you on another level from the guys with cut-off Levi’s or a pair of their dad’s plaid baggies (however, these were close).”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Newport Beach gremmies would go over to Mrs. Reed’s, she’d measure waist, inseam, etc. Young surfers would select fabric and color. A few weeks later, she’d have them cut out and pinned together “and she’d make you put ‘em on and correct the fit so they were perfect. You could custom design your own trunks any way you wanted.”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> “I remember Bob Beadle divided his legs and waistband into quarter panels of alternating red and green canvas,” said Allan Seymour. “My deal was to have my trunks made from solid navy blue material with the inside of my wax flap and inside waistband bright orange. Were we cool or what?” The trunks were generally made of a sturdy canvas duck material that started out real stiff, but over time, softened to just perfect. This being way before velcro was invented, they featured lace closures on the waistband that could be left insolently untied and hanging open, and covered button flys. The wax pocket came with a button-down flap to hold your paraffin. To make each pair of Mrs. Reed‘s trunks truly custom, she would embroider your name on a patch inside the pocket flap.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In the Spring of 1961,” recalled Seymour, “the surf cultures of San Clemente and Newport Beach were at the opposite ends of the economic spectrum. Someone once said that if your dad had a steady job in San Clemente he was an overachiever. In contrast, the Velzy-Jacobs shops in San Clemente did a thriving business. A large part of the clientele were rich kids from Newport Beach. They drove Porsches, wore new Pendleton’s and real Levi’s. We San Clemente kids thought they got the leather shoes they wore at bowling alleys, when actually they were very expensive elk hide yachting shoes. But the Mrs. Reed custom trunks were what really made the best surfers from Newport special.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Katins</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nancy Katin was the most famous of all the beach moms who sewed surf trunks. Mike Doyle tells her story: “Across the street from Corky [Carroll] lived Nancy and Walt Katin, who had a business making boat covers out of heavy-duty industrial canvas. Walt was a classic boat guy. He was short, robust, and wore powder-blue jumpsuits zipped up to the neck. He had a big salt-and-pepper beard and always wore a captain’s hat with a gold anchor on the black plastic brim. And he was happy all the time. Nancy was a little eighty-nine-pound lady who chain-smoked -- very nervous and excitable, but clear as a bell and the sweetest woman I ever met. Like her husband, she was happy all the time.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The Katins had no children of their own, but they loved kids, and they always made Corky feel welcome at their place. One day Corky asked Nancy if she would make him a pair of surf trunks out of boat canvas. He explained that swim trunks wouldn’t hold up to the stress of surfing -- usually they would just rip out in the seat or the crotch.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Nancy had heavy-duty sewing machines and used hundred-pound-test, waxed-nylon thread. She knew how to sew things that would last. So she said, ‘Sure, Corky, let’s give it a try.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Nancy sewed him a pair of red trunks out of sixteen-ounce drill canvas. She sewed them the same way she sewed her boat covers: with zigzag stitching, double and even triple seams. Corky loved them, but they were so stiff that every time he took them off, he just stood them up in the corner of his room. He wore them for two years before they broke in enough that they wouldn’t stand up by themselves. And after three years, he was still wearing them.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Before long, hundreds of local surfers were coming to Nancy Katin and asking her if she would make them a pair of surf trunks just like Corky’s. The Katins’ boat cover business was rapidly turning into a surf trunk business. It was all word of mouth, no advertising, a walk-in business, no mail order. They called it Kanvas by Katin, and there wasn’t anything else like it in California. Over the next four years, Nancy and the two Japanese ladies who worked for her made thousands of pairs of surf trunks. For surfers, Kanvas by Katin was legendary.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Later on, in the mid-1960s, Catalina sportswear bought-out the Katin business. Mike Doyle revealed that, “Back at the time when Catalina bought out Kanvas by Katin, I considered that deal to be a good thing. It gave Nancy Katin a good retirement after years of hard work, and it helped the Catalina label, too, by associating it with a quality product. Eventually, though, I realized that Catalina wanted the Katin name for the same reason they wanted my name: as a marketing gimmick. Right away they started making junky trunks and putting the Kanvas by Katin label on them. To surfers everywhere, Katin had meant quality, and almost overnight Catalina trashed the Katin name.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Nancy Katin was heartbroken when she realized what had happened. Her husband was gone, her business was gone, the kids who had come to her from the beach were gone. Even her name was gone. She had nothing left. But that gutsy little woman surprised us all. She paid Catalina double what they’d paid her, just to get her name back. Then she went back to making quality trunks. Before long the kids started coming back, she had her extended family again, and she was happy.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Birdwell Britches</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Following fast upon the heels of the Katins going commercial in 1959 was Birdwell Beach Britches, also manufacturing trunks in Southern California out of sail cloth. Yet, even as late as 1961, many surfers were still opting for “home-made” trunks over the brands that were established and those in the process of establishing themselves.</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Da Bull’s Striped Trunks</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The most famous single pair of surf trunks from this era was undoubtedly those black and white striped trunks worn by Greg Noll. Da Bull had had them made as “a gag” and they caught on, becoming Noll’s trademark of the period.</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Hang Ten</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1962, Duke Boyd and Doris Moore formed the Hang Ten label, in Long Beach, California. Some innovations followed, including the first use of nylon fabrics. The same year, Ricky Grigg became the first surfer to secure an endorsement deal with a surf trunk manufacturer, signing a sponsorship agreement with Jantzen.</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dave Rochlen Invents Jams/Baggies</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Jams, or Baggies, were a later development that began in 1963. Mike Doyle recalls that, “In December of 1963, I was back in Hawaii again, getting ready for that year’s Makaha. The morning of the contest, I was surfing at a little beach break at Pokai Bay (south of Makaha), just warming up before heading over to the contest. As I came out of the water, Dave Rochlen came walking down the beach. Dave, who was about fifteen years older than I was, had been a lifeguard at Santa Monica, was a respected big-wave rider and somebody I’d always looked up to. He’d been kind of a playboy in his younger days (he dated Marilyn Monroe before she became a famous movie star), but when he went to the islands he fell in love with a Hawaiian woman. I remember him telling me that when he saw her surfing one day, he just knew he had to have her. He ended up marrying the woman, having kids and settling down there in the islands.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Anyway, what really caught my attention on this particular day was that Rochlen was wearing these great big, floral-patterned surf trunks, like big baggy sacks with a draw string. They were like a cross between a Hawaiian muumuu, and extra-large boxer shorts. I liked them right away -- they really made me laugh. So I called out to him, ‘Dave, what the hell are you wearing?’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Rochlen looked at me, then down at his baggies. He had a funny way of talking with gestures -- rolling his head, squishing his neck, tilting his shoulders -- like he had to feel every word before he could let it out. ‘These are my new jams!’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I’d never heard the word before -- jams. ‘Well, those are really cool,’ I said.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Dave acted surprised. ‘You really think so?’ He stripped them off right there -- he had a pair of briefs on underneath -- and handed them to me. ‘Here, they’re yours. First pair I ever made.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I wore Rochlen’s jams around for a long time. They were comfortable, and they were so wild they made an anti-fashion statement, which I believe was the beginning of surf fashion.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Not long after that, Dave created one of the first surfwear companies, and called it Surf Line Hawaii. He registered the trademark, Jams, and came out with an entire line of his floral baggies.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Greg Noll also remembered Dave Rochlen starting “the Jams trend. Jams were –– and still are –– brightly colored, Hawaiian-print trunks, cut just above the knee. Every surfer wore them. Rochlen’s company, Surf Line Hawaii, originally started out as a surf shop in Honolulu that was owned by Dick Metz. Now it’s a big international clothing company. The original Surf Line Jams came on strong again a few years ago with the surfing crowd.” Noll was quick to remind everyone, however, that “the first surfwear trend started with the cutoff sailor pants worn by Velzy and his cohorts at the Manhattan Beach Surf Club.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mike Doyle & Commercial Surf Trunks</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Mike Doyle was intimately involved with the beginning commercialization of surf trunks. He put it this way: “The first mass-manufactured surf trunk was made by Hang Ten, started by Duke Boyd, an advertising man who was one of the first to realize that the whole surf trend had marketing power. He advertised his first trunks in </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfer</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Magazine, and I was one of the models.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Hang Ten started out selling their clothes in the surf shops until they’d established an identity in the surf community; then they expanded to bigger clothing stores and, finally, to the major retailers. Hang Ten became a very big company by springboarding off the surfer image.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Of course, surfers were into anti-fashion, and as soon as Hang Ten became popular with non-surfers, surfers stopped wearing their trunks. But Hang Ten didn’t care. They came out with matching tops and bottoms, which surfers wouldn’t be caught dead in, and used their surfing image to market a whole line of clothes in the Midwest and the East.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“After that, surf trunk manufacturers started popping up all over the place...”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Meanwhile, in 1964, </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Endless Summer</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> was released, its day-glo poster demonstrating both the proper style of wearing surf trunks and establishing them as a new social statement.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">But, “the surfing image wasn’t always the path to riches,” reminds Mike Doyle. “Some beachwear companies failed miserably at trying to capitalize on it, and for several years I worked for one of them.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Catalina Swimwear was an old, established company that had been into casual clothing for years. Their market had always been the older, East Coast, mom-and-pop crowd. They had what they called a cruise line, which was the kind of thing retired people would wear on a two-week cruise through the Caribbean. Catalina realized early on the potential that the surf trend had in the clothing industry, and they were determined to try to stay with the times, which meant designing for younger people.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Catalina got their foot in the door of the surf trend when they sponsored the Long Beach Surf Club at the Peruvian International. After that, Catalina started looking for a surfer to promote their swimwear, and they eventually chose me. Right away they started making Mike Doyle-model surf trunks. At first I had no say in the design process -- I just wrote a little blurb for the hang tag and signed my name to it.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“In the spring of 1965... Catalina sent me on a promotional tour called ‘Make It with Catalina.’ They put me on a fat salary with an expense account and hired Bruce Brown, the maker of </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Endless Summer</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">, to create a seven-minute promo film. I spent the next four months traveling through California, the Midwest, Texas, Florida, and the East Coast, bird-dogging for Catalina...”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While on the promotional, Doyle discovered that the Catalina surf trunks weren’t worth a shit. His subsequent experience with corporate sportswear giant Catalina became a wake-up call. Doyle remembered, “As soon as I got back... I called up the president of Catalina, Chuck Trowbridge, and told him I didn’t think Catalina’s surf trunks were any good. I told him they were using cheap zippers and flimsy nylon, and the seams wouldn’t hold up to the stress of knee paddling. I told him it was a lousy product that would rip out in the ass every time. And I tried to explain to him how their sense of design was killing them with surfers -- that only kooks would wear matching trunks and shirts.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“... Trowbridge called a meeting of the Catalina board of directors to hear what I had to say. I told them everything I’d already told Trowbridge, then I said, ‘I know you can make a strong pair of surf trunks, because Nancy Katin is doing it right now.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Later on, Trowbridge drove down to see Nancy Katin. Not long before, Walt Katin had passed away and Nancy had been devastated. Nancy survived the loss of her husband because the young surfers who came to see her every day had become her children, her extended family. Anyway, when Chuck Trowbridge saw what Nancy Katin had done with her business, he liked it so much he offered to buy her out. And Nancy, perhaps thinking it was time for her to retire, agreed to sell Kanvas by Katin to Catalina.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the First Duke Invitational, Doyle went to Catalina a second time. “That spring I did the Catalina East Coast promo tour again... After I got back... I talked to Chuck Trowbridge again and explained how I thought Catalina could improve their line of swimwear to appeal to young people. He seemed interested in my comments, and that summer he hired me to help Catalina design their swimwear...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I found out right away how frustrating it could be. One day I went in to see Catalina’s pattern maker. I took along a pair of M. Nii surf trunks because I wanted him to see how well they fit. The M. Niis were patterned after what’s called a ‘young man’s fit,’ meaning the front of the waistband is about an inch and a half lower than the back, like a pair of jeans. But the pattern maker was sort of an Old World tailor who had been doing the same gentleman’s cut for so long he couldn’t change. I’m sure he understood what I was talking about, he just wasn’t willing to consider doing things any differently. Swimwear </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">had</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> to have a waistband like a pair of baggy trousers. It was my first lesson in corporate paralysis.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Although nylon has endured as a viable fabric for surf trunks, early editions of the nylon trunk were nowhere near what they are, today. Doyle recalled, “I didn’t like the idea of surf trunks made of nylon, which was what Catalina was using at the time. Nylon might have looked like a space-age fabric, but surfers knew it felt awful in the water. So I found some great industrial-grade canvas. It was made of 100 percent cotton, had a nice texture, and felt comfortable wet. Best of all, it was so strong you could make a pair of surf trunks that would last forever.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“When I showed the fabric to Chuck Trowbridge, his response was, ‘How much does it cost?’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘Forty cents a yard.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘We don’t buy that cheap,’ he said. ‘We usually spend four times that much.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘But if it’s better quality, why not buy cheaper?’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘We just don’t do things that way.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“That was my second lesson in corporate paralysis.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I had more success getting Catalina to beef up their stitching. But I had no luck trying to explain why surfers would never buy matching trunks and nylon jackets. I wrote a twenty-page analysis of where the youth movement was going and how that would affect the clothing market, how young people were wearing natural fibers because cotton looked and felt real, while nylon had something phony about it.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Trowbridge told me, ‘But, Mike, our matching nylon trunks and jackets are selling in the Midwest.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘But surfers are just a little bit ahead of them,’ I said. ‘Believe me, the Midwest is going to like cotton trunks, too.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“‘Uh-huh... Well, thank you, Mike. We’ll talk it over, and let you know what we think.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“By this time I’d begun to see that Catalina didn’t really want me involved in the design of their swimwear. What they wanted was to be able to </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">say</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> they had a real surfer involved in their design. It was just a marketing angle. The problem was that I really </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">did</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> become involved. I got interested in the fabrics and the design process and the quality control and the marketing -- I craved the creativity. And I felt an obligation to help deliver an honest product to the surf community.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“After several months of work, I went before the Catalina review panel to show them the line I’d designed. They were all sitting there smoking cigars... I showed them how I’d changed the cut on the trunks for a younger man. I showed them how I’d double-stitched the seat and used overlocking stitching in the crotch. I showed them how I’d switched from nylon to cotton.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“They all gave me a screwy look, then Chuck said, ‘Gee, Mike. It looks a little wild.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I took a deep breath and began pleading my case. ‘Surfers are open to new ideas,’ I said. ‘They don’t care what middle-aged men in New York or Miami are wearing. They’re going their own way.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Then Chuck Trowbridge spoke the words that ended my corporate career. ‘Mike,’ he said, ‘there’s something you have to understand. We aren’t really selling to surfers. That’s not our market. What we’re doing is selling the surfer image.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I knew then it was hopeless. Not only did they fail to understand what I was trying to tell them, that the surf market would lead them to the future of their industry, but they were using my name to promote an inferior product. I said, ‘Well, you’ve got the wrong guy then, because all this time I’ve been trying to design a real product for real surfers.’</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“And I walked away. A lot of people in the surf industry thought I was a fool for leaving Catalina. It was a pretty sweet job for a young man just twenty-four years old, and if I’d milked it for ten years or so, I might have become fairly wealthy... Catalina swimwear, which had been a giant in the industry, went out of business eventually. When authentic surfwear companies started popping up out of garages all over Southern California, pushing tough, creative, innovative beachwear, Catalina got eaten alive.”</span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A View From San Diego</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1998, Bill Andrews sent me the following email about the early days of the surfwear industry from a San Diego perspective:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I grew up at La Jolla Shores. Had to suffer the abuse of being a Shores Guy, while attending La Jolla Junior Senior High School, class of ‘62. Actually have a photo of my first wave (‘58 La Jolla Shores, taken by Tom Clark’s mother ), worked for Gordon and Smith, Surfer Mag, Nat Norfleet... Bla... Bla... Bla!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Used to show home movies (8 mm ) in my garage. Even Bud Browne and Hal Jepson stopped by and tried to “steal ideas!” Just kidding.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Most of my friends have been choking me, trying to force me into writing a book... Most of my tales are first hand... Fights with Butch, growing up in La Jolla, MacMeda, working with Tor (Thor?) and starting the WindanSea Surf Club, Hynson, Frye, all that jazz.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I really just wanted to get into ‘your loop’ and see what could happen.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I’m an engineer at Qualcomm, still surf, still involved in surf products: (Polyolefins [polypropolene] with Amoco, etc.) rash guards, yada yada...</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Probably the first surfer to meet and work with Ron Stoner... way before Surfer Mag. Good friends with Larry Gordon, Frye, Ekstrom, Pezman, Guy Motil, Diff., Channin, Bahne. on and on. Sold boards in San Diego for G & S, Noll, Weber, Yater, Olympic etc. Probably have personally sold more boards at retail than anyone. Took Midget to Blacks, around 1970, have the 8 mm movies somewhere... Graduated from La Jolla High School, 1962 You’ve heard of the other inmates there... Took a driver’s training class with Butch’s brother, Marvin Van Artsdalen... didn’t keep me from getting pounded by Butch. After all I was a Shores guy.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I’ll follow your lead. In fact, I’m meeting with Chuck Hasley tonight. You might want to let a few of your participants know that he is alive, reasonably well, AND SOBER!</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“By the way, there was another International Contest at San Miguel last weekend. WSC won again!!! BA”</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The real surfers at ‘The High School’ (La Jolla Jr. -- Sr. High) were turned on to a tailor in Pacific Beach, next to PB Jr. High, who made canvas trunks. Must have been about 1960. All trunks were custom made, pick your own fabric. My mother drove us there. We prayed we wouldn’t run into Butch or any of the other WindanSea crowd. The same story as ‘Up North.’ Stripes, etc. I can not remember how we closed them. Certainly not velcro.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“We Shores Guys, (The Burro, Magoo, The Grub, Bull Neck) had to get the best. The Grub, who had an older ‘big wave rider’ brother, said our trunks had to be really sturdy, because that’s what the Hawaiians wore. Our canvas trunks were made out of the super awning canvas. 4,000 wearings and were still stiff as a board. Crotch rot or not, we had to wear them.”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 8pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Another caveat to those who want to become big shots in the ‘hard core surf biz”:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Back, late 60’s early 70’s, my store -- The Pacific Beach Surf Shop – was the largest single store customer for Ocean Pacific. Since I had been in ‘surf’ retail long before the rise and fall of Hang Ten, (and by the way, Gary Bates sure got screwed by them) I was fully prepared to take a wait and see attitude with OP.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“[Later on, after I stocked OP sportswear,] I heard a rumor that OP was going into the Broadway Stores in SoCal. I told JJ and Henry, that the day OP sold to Broadway, was the day their stuff went out into the street. I said I’d rather let the Hell’s Angels (including Shorty), and the other derelicts that hung around the foot of PB Drive, have the stuff than sell a ‘surf trunk’ that was also sold in Broadway. The day the full page OP/Broadway ads hit, was the day the OP stuff went out into the rain.”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 8pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Love those Surfer Mag ads:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Had the good fortune to be in a few ads. A good one was the Kennington ad, Surfer Mag., June-July ‘64. ‘Here Comes Eddie Surfnbacher’ (sp?) taken at the OC Airport by Stoner. Only Bob Hanson, in Encinitas, remembers the entire cast. I think Jack Cantu from Hobie, Dana Point was in it. George Merkle, Darryl Diamond?? The brunette from the Jacobs ads???</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Got a million copies of the mag. Hung around Doheney. Best yet for picking up the babes. Also Bi-Monthly...2 full months of exposure! Bill Andrews”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 8pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">About Catalina surf trunks being no good:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“The trunks were worse than that,” recalled Bill Andrews – who sold the stuff, “but, memory please don’t fail me now, weren’t our first WindanSea Surf Club jackets ‘Catalina-Martin’... correcto??</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Pretty complete history of the surf trunk, BUT:</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Before ‘Balsa Bill’ Yerkes started Sundek on the East Coast, Yerkes and Larry Gordon, with a touch of Floyd Smith (and the Maine babe), designed and made the finest surf wear ever sold on the West Coast: TURTLE KING and WAVE WEAR. The names said it all.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“Pacific Beach Surf Shop became the Beta Test Site...maybe JJ was even a sales rep for Yerkes? And then Yerkes bailed, OP began. Yerkes became a billionaire East Coast Sundeker. Great fun then, and what a learning experience... right??? Bill Andrews”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 8pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></p><br /><br /><h1 dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 3pt; margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Surfwear Industry, 1970s to 1990s</span></h1><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">After the success of commercial surf trunks became evident, Mike Doyle recollected, “surf trunk manufacturers started popping up all over the place -- Ocean Pacific (or OP), Surf Line Hawaii, Quicksilver, Gotcha, Instinct, Maui and Sons -- and eventually dominated the casual clothing industry. You can go to any beach resort in the world now and see men in their seventies wearing baggy, neon-green surf trunks with bright floral patterns. Before surf trunks caught on, grown men wouldn’t be seen in something like that.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">From the mid-1960s, surf trunks spread further and deeper into American life. In 1969, Sundek, in Florida, became the first major surf trunk manufacturer on the East Coast. 1971 was an important year, with “Hawaiian Soul“ type trunks as well as Golden Breed popular. Jim Jenks, formerly with Hansen Surfboards, started Op Sunwear and, marketed around the brilliant surfing of Pipeline legend Gerry Lopez, the Lightning Bolt label was born the same year.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1976,</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-weight: 700; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Jeff Hakman and Bob McKnight began manufacturing Quicksilver “boardshorts,” featuring the scallop-leg and two-snap velcro closure in California, setting the standard that, minus the scallop-leg, endures to present day.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1978, South African surfer Mike Tomson found Gotcha, which, along with Quicksilver, became the style leader in the post 1970s surf trunk era.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Notable events in the 1980s include Quicksilver rider Dan Kwock‘s introduction of neon polka-dot trunks, beginning the Echo Beach line and ushering in what was called the New Wave fashion swell. In 1984, Jeff Yokoyama of Maui and Sons incorporated day-glo colors into his sweatshirt and trunk line. And, in 1986, Op first brought out the lycra short, patterned off sleek triathlon racing suits. World champion surfer Tom Curren was the model.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1987, Billabong joined Gotcha and Quicksilver in a triad of imported labels that dominated the American market.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In 1988, 26 years after Ricky Grigg struck his deal with Jantzen, Quicksilver signed the first-ever million dollar contract with 2-time world champion Tom Carroll.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By 1991, styles tended to go more toward the baggie type. Lycra-neoprene suits haven’t really caught on. Although the neoprene-lycra trunks are efficient in the water, “Nobody wants to hang out on the beach all day in Lycra,” said Bob Hurley of Billabong.</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">“I’ve spent a lot of time wondering why people all over the world want to dress like surfers,” concluded Mike Doyle. “Some sociologist could probably write a doctoral thesis on that subject. But I think the basic reason is pretty simple: Surfing is fun, and surfwear helps remind people of all ages that life is </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">supposed</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> to be fun.”</span></p><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">More than funwear, “Trunks are a piece of vital surfing equipment,” emphasized Bob Hurley, “the thing about trunks is that a surfer will wear them all day long... Surf trunks are something a surfer basically lives in.”</span></p><br /><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-style: italic; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ENDIT</span></p><br /><p dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.2; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt; text-align: justify; text-indent: 36pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 10pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">__________________________________</span></p><br /></span></div>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-58377099273962924602022-04-30T21:13:00.000-07:002022-04-30T21:13:14.373-07:00Surf Music<p><br /><!--[if !mso]>
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<![endif]--><a name="_Toc484299447"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc484312044;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc485860776;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 18.0pt;"></span></b></span></span></a><a name="_Toc484299448"></a> </p><p class="LS">Aloha and welcome to this <i>LEGENDARY SURFERS</i> chapter on SURF
MUSIC, originally written in the late 1990’s.</p><p class="LS">The focus of this chapter is primarily surf music of the 1960’s. An
excellent source for Hawaiian surf music preceding the Sixties is Emile Marine
Bogrand's M.A. thesis for the Annenberg School of Communication, published on
July 29, 2011. "The Sound of Surf" covers the roots of surf music in
Polynesia and Hawaii
through the 20th Century. She also writes about surf music that came later.</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">Bogrand refers to the thesis as
"a chronological examination of music surrounding and associated with
American surf culture over the course of the twentieth century. I also explore
the roots of surf music starting where surfing first began: Hawaii. I examine ancient Polynesian
cultures and surf-related music from a social standpoint as well as a more
technically musical standpoint. I discuss key figures and events that are
responsible for the popularization of Hawaiian culture on the American mainland
and investigate what fell and falls under the categorization of surf music over
the consequent decades. I have organized my research so as to simulate a
historical journey through the places where surfing and music intersected."</span></span></p><span style="background-color: white;">
</span><p class="LS"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto auto;">Emile Marine Bogrand's thesis is
27 pages, with an additional 12 reference pages, and is available in digital
format via the University
of Southern California Digital Library
(with a link also at the Digital Public Library of America): If you have difficulty
locating it, just search on the author’s name:</span></span></p>
<p class="LS"><a href="http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/cdm/ref/collection/p15799coll127/id/643270"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "游ゴシック Light";">http://digitallibrary.usc.edu/cdm/ref/collection/p15799coll127/id/643270</span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhowVqdTawboDb614KgqhEaQUXQincqhp6JhKt_W3PXgvl-AIK5SY7W7qidUAucZdrNnW7YzIg-3X7QZDtAYgopfzaYB25Kty_GazpiZyI1lw0wAhDtRBuRBk9a8kirZ4VccNqnvzbBrroo/s199/Lspetro1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="160" data-original-width="199" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhowVqdTawboDb614KgqhEaQUXQincqhp6JhKt_W3PXgvl-AIK5SY7W7qidUAucZdrNnW7YzIg-3X7QZDtAYgopfzaYB25Kty_GazpiZyI1lw0wAhDtRBuRBk9a8kirZ4VccNqnvzbBrroo/s1600/Lspetro1.gif" width="199" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290377">Contents</a></h1>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Definition<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span>
</p><p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Roots of Surf Music<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">The South Bay Sound<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Dick Dale & the Orange County Sound<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Posers & Wannabees<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">The Beach Boys<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Early ‘60s Youth Culture<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Surf Music Industry<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Surf Music’s Demise<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"> </span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">“You’ll Never Hear Surf Music Again”<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc2" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">JIMI HENDRIX<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-variant: normal !important; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc2" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">DICK DALE RE<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">DUX</span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-variant: normal !important; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Surf Revival of the 1980s<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Surf Music<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"> of the 1990's</span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Seeking Out Surf Music<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc2" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">VINTAGE SURF BANDS on CD<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-variant: normal !important; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc2" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">MODERN SURF BANDS on CD & Vinyl<span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-variant: normal !important; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">"Surf's Up!"<br /><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;"></span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;">Eulogy to the Classic Surf Music <span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">Era</span></span><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290378">Definition</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><b>Surf Music -- </b><i>n.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>1) A sound representational of the ocean landscape, associated with the
late 1950s and early 1960s and created by two main branches of musicians:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>The Orange County Sound</i> (Dick Dale,
etc.), who generally used more reverb, and <i>The South Bay Sound</i> of
musicians (The Belairs, etc.) who used less reverb;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>2) Rock ‘n Roll music from California in the
early 1960s, characterized by close treble harmonies and with lyrics that
celebrated the exhilaration of surfing and the beach life (Beach Boys, Jan
& Dean, etc.);<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>3)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Any music you can surf to (Jimi Hendrix, etc.).<a href="#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[1]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“Surf music is a definite style of heavy staccato picking with the
flowing sound of a reverb unit to take away the flat tones on the guitar and
make the notes seem endless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very heavy
guitar strings are used to elongate the sound from the vibration of the
strings, not the feedback qualities of an amplifier.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It becomes a very in-depth combination of
things that, when put together, spells out true surf music.” -- Dick Dale<a href="#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290379">Roots of Surf Music</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Surf Music emerged on the scene around 1961. Almost without
exception, it was introduced by musicians who had no physical contact with the
ocean, themselves. Although this would change quickly in the early 1960s, as Southern California surfers, as a group, were quick to
adopt the musical sound as their own. The adoption would spread throughout the
surfing world, but mostly on the U.S. Mainland. The musical genre was an
extension of Rockabilly and 1950s Rhythm and Blues compositions.<a href="#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beginning with instrumental compositions,
surf music later incorporated vocal harmonies. As the definition of surf music
illustrates, surf music, today, is known as much for its vocals as its
instrumentation. Purists, however, who well remember how the genre began, will
disagree strongly with any emphasis on vocal harmonies as defining the surf
sound.</p>
<p class="LS">During rock ‘n roll music’s infancy in the 1950s, “a basic song was
a two-to-three minute AABA number, with a saxophone carrying the B part,” wrote
Phil Dirt, a surf music DJ who was around in the golden days of surf music and
broadcast a weekly program of surf music for many years. Despite such artists
as Bo Diddley and Chuck Berry‘s accent on the guitar, most rock ‘n roll tunes
were sax based, including instrumentals. Texas
swing musician Bill Haley defined the mainstream sound. The only exceptions to
the basic sound, besides Bo Diddley and Chuck Berry’s work, were those of the
early Rockabilly artists who substituted guitar in the B parts.<a href="#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Link Wray</b>, an early
Rockabilly musician, used Bo Diddley’s trick of slitting speaker cones with a
knife to get a ragged-edge distortion. He wrote for the guitar and developed a
sound with a distinctive growl. His compositions “were simple and relied on
minor changes to hold interest,” Phil Dirt told me, “like the gradual increase
in vibrato toward the end of his piece ‘Jack The Ripper’.”<a href="#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Wray’s “Rumble” could be considered the first surf song and has been covered by
every surf band even to present day.</p>
<p class="LS">“<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Duane Eddy</b>‘s basic
string-of-single-notes melodies focused on the guitar in a voice developed
mostly by Al Casey,” wrote Dirt. “Duane reversed the standard AABA (GGSG)
arrangement, using his lead guitar in the A parts, with Steve Douglas‘ sax
lines relegated to the B parts.”<a href="#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Early guitarists who provided inspiration to surf music’s
beginnings included Link Wray, Duane Eddy, Derry Weaver, Nokie Edwards, Chet
Atkins, Les Paul and Fireball George Tomsco.<a href="#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[7]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bill Dogget was also influential.<a href="#_ftn8" name="_ftnref8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Early groups that influenced the initial surf
music strain include:</p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Fireballs</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were a two guitar-bass-drums unit
recorded by Norman Petty, in Clovis,
New Mexico. Their carefully balanced
lead-rhythm interplay particularly influenced Paul Johnson of the surf band The
Belairs.</p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Gamblers</b> were “a
studio amalgam” of Derry Weaver, Sandy Nelson, Leon Russell and other Los Angeles studio
musicians. The Gamblers issued an influential single called “Moondawg” (c/w
“LSD 25”).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Moondawg” was re-recorded by
many artists, including Paul Revere & The Raiders.</p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Johnny & The Hurricanes</b>.
They used cheap organ or sax leads for the most part. Johnny Paris was the
saxophone player and leader. Occasionally, the group let dominate guitarist
Dave Yorko‘s rifts like those illustrated in “Sheba” and “Sandstorm”. The sense
of melody rather than simple progressions were further developed by Johnny
& The Hurricanes.</p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Storms</b> were heavily
oriented around guitarist Jody Reynolds. Their piece “Thunder” was an Al
Casey/Duane Eddy styled instrumental that was a direct inspiration to early
surf bands.</p>
<p class="LS"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">The Ventures</b> had a two
guitar-bass-drums lineup and were the most mainstream of all the bands that
influenced the early surf sound. The Ventures versions of other people’s songs
became a staple in the surf band diet, not as a part of the genre, but more
like a foundation. Their popularity amongst surf musicians was despite the fact
that during their ‘surf’ period, the Ventures didn’t even play the right
instruments for an authentic surf sound. They preferred to use Mosrite guitars
and reverbs. The lack of depth in their surf stuff is due in part to their
equipment, but also to a generally laid back playing style. The Ventures
contributed a surf music classic, “Sputnik”, after Nokie Edwards joined the
group. “Sputnik” later became “Surf Rider” when the surf band The Lively Ones
covered it. The Ventures’ “Diamond Head”
became another famous surf tune.<a href="#_ftn9" name="_ftnref9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The rockabilly and garage band music between 1956 and 1960
generated thousands of independent 45rpm singles. Most of them are best
forgotten by time. However, there were also some great exceptions like “Ghost
Train” by The Millionaires, “Underwater” by The Frogmen, and <i>“</i>Typhoid<i>”</i>
by The Northern Lights. “Typhoid” was recorded in 1960; a “staccato double
picked rant” that was later reissued as “Bust Out” by The Busters. This tune is
arguably the first surf style tune recorded. It’s main shortfall is a lack of
reverb and a surf title, but then again, some of surf music’s most notable
early tunes both lacked reverb and surf titles (i.e. “Let’s Go Trippin’” by
Dick Dale and “Mr. Moto” by The Belairs).<a href="#_ftn10" name="_ftnref10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Surf Music “was greatly influenced by the then quickly changing
moods of rockabilly and rhythm and blues,” wrote Leonard Lueras in <i>Surfing,
The Ultimate Pleasure</i>. “Transition artists such as Chuck Berry, Duane Eddy
and the inventive old timer, Les Paul, had long been experimenting with
tremolos, echolettes and other such techno music toys, but these gimmicks were
usually utilized for the odd temporary effect. Not until [Dick] Dale began
promoting himself as a surf guitarist and calling such sustained electro riffs
‘surf music,’ was this peculiar sound given a popular or proper generic name.”<a href="#_ftn11" name="_ftnref11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290380">The South Bay Sound</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“Surf Music, as it was eventually called,” wrote Randy Nauert, bass
player of The Challengers, “was mostly simple instrumentals copied from the
early Ventures, Fireballs, Duane Eddy and Johnny and the Hurricanes and
originals composed by the guitar players in the groups. It was danceable and
provided a centerpiece for evening social activities on weekends for a lot of
us who had spent the day riding waves and generally hanging around at the
beach. The surfer’s stomp was pounding each foot twice hard on the floor. You’d
be wearing heavy Mexican sandals, huaraches, soled with tire treads and maybe
taps. The effect of 2000 people doing this in time to the music was
cataclysmic. I loved calling the sets and building the intensity... the dance
halls would literally bounce. You could hear it from several blocks away... and
the surfer girls looked great.</p>
<p class="LS">“The music became more of a ‘genre’ as the individual groups had
hits with original compositions. There were a lot of songs and bands that came
up… As we became better singers, we did more vocals... some originals, some of
the hits of the day and standards by Chuck Berry and Little Richard.</p>
<p class="LS">“I would say that the classic surf music period begins about 1958
and ends about 1966 with the emergence of the San Francisco psychedelic
incarnations of surf, the Grateful Dead, Quicksilver Messenger Service and Big
Brother... message bands. In general, the introduction of Marijuana and LSD
into the culture was a beginning of the end of innocence... the beginning of a
colorful new change in culture and values that spread from California around the world with its
language, costume, music and lifestyle.</p>
<p class="LS">“Surf music changed the face of popular music in two major ways. We
introduced the electric bass guitar on hit records. Previously all hits were
recorded with the stand up bass (Elvis’ Bill Black Combo). The physical
limitations of the stand-up dictated the bass style. With the electric bass
came a harder and more driving bass. We drew the world’s attention to California and paved the way for the ‘San Francisco sound’ which followed. The
simplicity and directness of surf endures.”<a href="#_ftn12" name="_ftnref12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">The first true surf bands were The Belairs in 1960-61 and The
Challengers in 1962. Paul Johnson and Eddie Bertrand met in 1960 and formed the
nucleus of The Belairs. They idolized The Storms, Duane Eddy, Link Wray, The
Fireballs, The Ventures, and Johnny & The Hurricanes. The Belairs formed
with Richard Delvy on drums, Chas Stuart on sax and Jim Roberts on piano
(sometimes) joined with Johnson and Bertrand.<a href="#_ftn13" name="_ftnref13" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn13;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[13]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">In May of 1961, The Belairs recorded <b><i>“</i></b>Mr. Moto,<b><i>”</i></b>
a mutual composition by Paul Johnson and Richard Delvy, along with several
other tunes. Arvee Records released the single that summer, making “Mr. Moto”
the first surf tune recorded by a surf band. Paul Johnson went on to write a
number of classic surf tunes, including “Squad Car”, “Scouse” and “Chifflado.”
Johnson’s distinctive style became known as the “South Bay Sound,” spawning and
inspiring many other bands in the region including The Challengers and Thom
Starr & The Galaxies.<a href="#_ftn14" name="_ftnref14" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn14;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[14]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">According to
bassist Randy Nauert, “the first album of Surf Music ever released was
‘Surfbeat’ by the Challengers. The Challengers also worked as the Belairs
because it was formed by 3 members of the Belairs, Richard Delvy, Jimmy Roberts
and Chas Stewart... along with [myself, having]... played with the Belairs, and
Glen Gray formerly of Johnny & The Hurricanes, and Don Landis. Mr. Moto is
on that first album.</span></p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">“Surfbeat sold
200,000 units in 2 months... released before Dick Dale’s album, by the way...
and set the stage for other record companies and bands to release their version
of what became known as ‘surf music’. The success of Surfbeat paved the way for
many other groups.”</span><a href="#_ftn15" name="_ftnref15" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn15;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[15]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <i>Surfbeat</i> became the
biggest-selling surf album of all time.</span></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290381">Dick Dale & the Orange County Sound</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Playing at this time, also, was Richard Anthony Monsour, who took
the stage name of Dick Dale. More than any one person, Dick Dale was the man
most responsible for the explosion of surf music on the scene in the Summer of
1961.</p>
<p class="LS">Born in Boston,
Massachusetts, Dale started his
musical career by collecting empty soda bottles to come up with the five bucks
for a plastic ukulele. It didn’t take long for the uke to break and Dale
progressed on to a beat-up guitar that he scored from a high school classmate
for 50 cents down and 25 cents a week.<a href="#_ftn16" name="_ftnref16" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn16;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[16]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Dale idolized country musician Hank Williams. He was a left-handed
musician with a right-handed guitar that he played upside down without
re-stringing. “The guitar is designed to be played with the right hand plucking
the string while the left hand depresses the proper notes,” explained disc
jockey Jim Pewter. “The strings of the guitar are designed to allow easy
fingering positions for all chords and progressions. If a young guitarist
wishes to pluck with the left hand instead, he is told to take the strings off
and replace them in reverse order. To play the hands reversed position without
reversing the strings should exceed the limits of mortal dexterity, but that is
how Dale plays it.”<a href="#_ftn17" name="_ftnref17" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn17;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[17]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Dick Dale played at local country bars where he met 400-pound disc
jockey T. Texas Tiny, who gave him what he thought was a good name for a
country singer: Dick Dale. Famed LA disc jockey Art Laboe booked Dale with
Johnny Otis and Sonny Knight at the El Monte Legion Stadium. His first singles
were recorded on his father’s Deltone label and all tunes were of the vocal pop
type. In early 1961, Dale and his cousin and future Del-Tones Ray Samra and Billy Barber jammed
with Nick O’Malley, who played folk songs at The Rinky Dink coffee house in
Balboa. Dale’s style was still very country. Nick showed him how to set his
tone switch in between positions, which gave him an important element of his
trademark sound.<a href="#_ftn18" name="_ftnref18" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn18;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[18]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Dick Dale and the Del-Tones “were the house band at the Rendezvous
Ballroom in Balboa from late 1959 until late 1961,” wrote John Blair in his
authoritative <i>Illustrated Discography of Surf Music</i>. “His popularity
grew immensely during this time until hundreds of teenagers were regularly
converging on the Rendezvous every weekend by the fall of 1961. During 1961,
and into 1962, he was probably the most popular performer in Southern
California.”<a href="#_ftn19" name="_ftnref19" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn19;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[19]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“The 23 year old sensation,” touted a Capitol Records promotional
piece in early 1963, “first appeared in the famed Rendezvous Ballroom in Balboa
in 1960. Until his arrival, the ballroom could look forward to only two or
three hundred patrons on a weekend night. Dick Dale came in, and something
amazing began. Crowds of teen-agers filled the huge ballroom. In only a few
weeks, it hit capacity... 3500 to 4000 every weekend night... Thursday, Friday
and Saturday. And in the winter months, normally a heavy dropoff period,
attendance actually <i>increased</i>. This fantastic box office pull continued
for the entire two year period of Dick Dale’s booking at the Rendezvous. Then,
in January of 1962, he moved to the Pasadena Civic Auditorium. There he broke
every existing record by drawing capacity crowds of over three thousand every
weekend night for the entire month of January! (And in Balboa, box office at
the Rendezvous plummeted from 4000 to 200.) The overflow crowds in Pasadena refused to be
turned away, insisting upon dancing in the outer lobbies, on the steps, and in
the streets outside the Pasadena Civic. At times, there were 3000 inside the house,
and 4000 waiting outside! In staid, conservative Pasadena, the phenomenon was unbelievable.”<a href="#_ftn20" name="_ftnref20" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn20;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[20]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Dale’s Rendezvous Ballroom gig began a near half-decade run of --
for those times -- massive dance gatherings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“For a time,” wrote Jim Pewter, “The Beach Boys, Jan and Dean, Duane
Eddy, and The Riteous Brothers all had turns as second and third on bills which
headlined Dick Dale... He... had the number one song in such faraway lands as New Zealand, Australia,
England and Japan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one time, he owned five of the top ten
records in California,
including all of the top four.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Los
Angeles Sports Arena holds 15,000.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For his 1961 concert there, 21,000
screaming fans showed up.”<a href="#_ftn21" name="_ftnref21" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn21;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[21]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“The title ‘King Of The Surf Guitar,’” wrote Dale, “was first
given to me by friends who surfed with me and came to dance to the music that I
was trying to create.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The picking style
I created was a heavy, fast machine gun staccato attack.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This provided a fat, full non-stop sound and
was<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>achieved with the help of a heavy
duty sideman plastic pick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A precise
perfection of meter<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>is a must all the
way through to the end of the song.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
guitar,
the gauge of strings, the placement of the pickups, the amps and speakers, and the style of playing all
together made up the Dick Dale sound.”<a href="#_ftn22" name="_ftnref22" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn22;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[22]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">It was in the Summer of 1961 that Dick Dale first used the term “surfing
sound” to describe both the sound and style of his guitar playing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the end of the summer, he had cut four
records -- all of them vocal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He lived
near the beach and surfed a little.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With
his music, he “attempted to musically reproduce the feeling he had while
surfing,” wrote Blair, “and the result of this somewhat nebulous and certainly
subjective approach was the surfing music genre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The feeling was one of vibration and
pulsification, which he produced by a heavy staccato sound on the low-key
strings of his guitar accompanied by a heavy thunder-like beat.”<a href="#_ftn23" name="_ftnref23" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn23;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[23]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Guitar maker Leo Fender, owner of Fender Musical
Instruments in Santa Ana, used Dale as a tester of his
guitars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale would “road test“ equipment modifications for
Fender, who preferred Dale because of his “harsh playing style,” wrote Phil
Dirt.</p>
<p class="LS">“I first met Leo Fender in the Mid-Fifties,” recalled Dale, “and he
gave me my first sunburst right-handed Stratocaster guitar which I held and
played upside down and backwards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leo
told me to beat it to death and to give him my thoughts on the instrument which
I did with glee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Together, we made some
improvements such as a five-position switch and adjustments like repositioning
pickups.</p>
<p class="LS">“Leo finally made a jig especially for me that he could use to
reposition my controls at the bottom of my Strat to more easily accomodate my
left-handed playing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
pattern head of the Strat was then changed to allow left-handed tuning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This caused the 60 guage E-string to extend 6 inches past the
nut.”<a href="#_ftn24" name="_ftnref24" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn24;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[24]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Freddie Tavares was Fender’s research and
development laboratory assistant from 1953 to 1964.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He told Dick Dale, “the thicker the wood, the
purer the sound and the bigger the strings, the bigger the sound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So, I continued to use the Strat,” wrote
Dale, “and 14, 18, 28, 38, 48 and 60 gauge regular wound Fender strings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To obtain the most powerful, fattest,
thickest, percussive,
penetrating, and driving sounds, the tick wood design of the Stratocaster, together with its pickups,
has not been matched by any other guitar that I know of to this date.”<a href="#_ftn25" name="_ftnref25" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn25;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[25]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Dale blew up 40 Showman amplifiers before all the bugs were
worked out on his combination of style and Fender guitar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fender also developed the JBL Speaker because of Dick’s playing 60
gauge E strings in staccato style.<a href="#_ftn26" name="_ftnref26" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn26;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[26]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Leo and Freddie,” wrote Dick Dale, “... never gave up as I blew
up and destroyed countless amplifiers and speakers which ultimately led to the
creation of the 100 watt Dual Showman with two D-130F 15-inch JBL
Lansing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>speakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leo would always say to Freddie, ‘If it can
withstand Dick Dale’s barrage of punishment, it is ready for human
consumption.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was fun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leo made me feel like I was his number one
son and test pilot or, as his plant manager Forrest White would say, his number one
guinea pig.”<a href="#_ftn27" name="_ftnref27" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn27;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[27]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">During this time, Dick Dale wrote his famous surf song <i>“</i>Let’s
Go Trippin’<i>”</i><i> </i>because some kid
goaded him by asking Dale if all he did was do vocals as opposed to
instrumentals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale’s
offerings, at this time, were mostly Rhythm and Blues standards <i>ala</i> Buster
Brown
and Bo Diddley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Let’s Go Trippin’” went unnamed for a number
of weeks until, at one point, he told his audience he didn’t know what to call
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Someone yelled back “Let’s go
trippin’” or, in other words, “shut up and play; we wanna dance.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale recorded the instrumental “Let’s Go
Trippin’” in August 1961
and then recut it for release in September 1961.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Let’s Go Trippin’ (c/w “Deltone Rock” - both primarily Rockabilly instrumentals) were released
on Deltone 5017,
followed by “Jungle Fever” (c/w “Shake & Stomp”), on Deltone 5018, March 1962.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In April 1962, Dale released “Surfers
Choice” from live tapes made by his father at the
Rendezvous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale’s sound soon became known as the Orange
County Sound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Jungle
Fever” was the music bed for Bo Diddley‘s “Hush Your Mouth”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale “even left some of the lyrics in on the
album when he called it ‘Surfin’ Drums’,” pointed out Phil Dirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“It is unfortunate that Dick still takes
writing credit for this song.”<a href="#_ftn28" name="_ftnref28" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn28;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[28]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The two separate developments that catalyzed the guitar-oriented
new sound were the new ways of playing the guitar and the new guitar
technology.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first, most obvious,
development was the simultaneous and unconnected evolution of two very
different guitar instrumental styles:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Paul Johnson
and Eddie Bertrand‘s delicate lead/rhythm interplay with the Bel
Airs,
and Dick Dale‘s
staccato
double picked onslaught with The Del-Tones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both were heavily melodic, and both were
adopted by the burgeoning surf culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The other development was technological.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Two new pieces of gear:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leo
Fender‘s
Showman amplifier, and the defining first outboard effect, the
Outboard Reverb helped to create the characteristic sounds of
instrumental surf.<a href="#_ftn29" name="_ftnref29" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn29;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[29]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">When the reverb unit came out in 1961, it did not take “The King of
the Surf Guitar“ long to adopt it to his use
beyond the vocals
it was originally intended for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“His
amplified sound was augmented by an electronic device called a reverberation
unit, commonly known as a ‘reverb,’ wrote Blair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“This was his surfing sound, and he allowed
it to take an instrumental form.”<a href="#_ftn30" name="_ftnref30" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn30;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[30]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">In 1962,
the archetypal surf instrumental <i>“</i>Pipeline<i>”</i> by The Chantays hit the airwaves and
continues to be the standard for surf reverb.<a href="#_ftn31" name="_ftnref31" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn31;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[31]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Contrary to some accounts,” Dick Dale clarified, “the Fender Reverb had nothing to do with the
Dick Dale surf sound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My first album, <i>Surfer’s
Choice</i>, was the first surf album in music history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fender Reverb had not been invented at
the time the record was made.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The reverb was actually created to
enhance my singing voice and its use with the guitar was secondary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the time the Fender Reverb and guitar were
combined, <i>Surfer’s Choice</i> had already sold over 80,000 copies.”<a href="#_ftn32" name="_ftnref32" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn32;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[32]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“With the introduction of the ‘reverb’ unit by guitar maker Leo
Fender
in 1962,”<a href="#_ftn33" name="_ftnref33" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn33;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[33]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
wrote Paul Johnson,
“lots of lead guitars took on the big, hollow, tubular tone of the reverb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fender reverb gave the guitar a slippery,
‘wet’ sort of tone, which naturally served to solidify the music’s
identification as ‘the sound of surfing.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Some of the most memorable surf sounds (such as the Chantays‘ ‘Pipeline’, the Surfaris’ ‘Wipe Out’, the Pyramids‘ ‘Penetration’, and Dick Dale’s ‘Miserlou’) were literally <i>drenched</i>
in reverb.”<a href="#_ftn34" name="_ftnref34" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn34;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[34]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">At the beginning of surf music’s emergence, it was not at all about
surfing, <i>per se</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was more
about the adoption of instrumentals that were extensions of late 1950s Rockabilly and R & B.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a general way of looking at it, anything
instrumental
was surf music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“That may or may not
give surfers the right to redefine it at their convenience,” underscored Phil
Dirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the definition quickly narrowed at
the same time it incorporated the Orange County Sound (<i>ala</i> Dick Dale) and the South Bay Sound (<i>ala</i> The Bel Airs), with the Orange County
Sound having the upper hand.<a href="#_ftn35" name="_ftnref35" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn35;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[35]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The new musical sound that emerged from Southern California in the Summer of 1961 did not take long to be
connected with “going to the beach, surfing, girls and cars,” wrote John Blair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“It was white, danceable, and
non-threatening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kids all over America picked up on it very quickly despite the
lack of beaches and surfboards in areas outside of California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was a musical phenomenon...”<a href="#_ftn36" name="_ftnref36" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn36;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[36]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290382">Posers & Wannabees</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">It did not take long for it to be apparent that the best surf music
writers and players were not even surfers; many of them living nowhere near a
coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although Dick Dale proudly refers to his
surfing, Thom Starr‘s
remembrance is that Dale had a hell of a time getting up on the board for the
photo shoot for the cover of “Surfer’s Choice”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Worse, the cover shot for “King Of The Surf
Guitar” is rumored to be a photo
taken in a pool.<a href="#_ftn37" name="_ftnref37" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn37;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[37]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He <i>did</i> surf, however, as testified by
his friend Gary Martel:</p>
<p class="LS">“For what it’s worth,” wrote Martel in an email message in 1996, “I used to surf occasionally
with Dick Dale
in the ‘60s (Dana Cove
before the harbor).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes, Dick could
really surf (although, as I recall, his real talent was in the parking lot,
hustling girls and cigarettes).”<a href="#_ftn38" name="_ftnref38" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn38;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[38]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Dick Dale,” wrote Leonard Lueras, “who since early 1961 had been the reigning ‘King
of the Surf Guitar,’ pranced and posed as a
surfer, but his swarthy, jelly roll looks were, ironically, more pomade than
peroxide.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dale, a native of Boston, was a mutation showcast
somewhere between Frank Zappa, Fabian and the glitter-shirted
regulars who frequented car club dances at the El Monte Legion Stadium (where cats and chicks were invited to ‘meet old
friends and make new friends, but no jeans or capris, please’).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His was a strange evolution, but whatever his
anthropomorphic or social bent, Dale and his Del
Tones
packed Southern California ballrooms and armories
weekend after weekend during more than three years of exciting surf music
nights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Throughout those early Sixties
times, when the now nearly institutionalized Beach Boys were still lip-synching to 45 rpm records at summer
YMCA
‘sock hops,’
King Dale was playing to audiences of at least 3,000 to 4,000-plus, three and
four nights a week.”<a href="#_ftn39" name="_ftnref39" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn39;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[39]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Interestingly, also, surf music became a sound that appealed more
to non-surfer musicians than to surfer musicians.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The only exception to this was Southern
California (i.e. Ron Wilson of The Surfaris) and Hawai’i, where, even so, much of the stuff
was made by musicians who didn’t surf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Noted early surf bands comprised of non-surfers include:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Ventures (Seattle), Eddie & The Showmen, The Trashmen (Minneapolis, Minnesota), The Surfaris, The Original Surfaris, The Bel Airs, The Sentinals, The Astronauts (Boulder, Colorado), and The Royal Flairs (Council Bluffs, Iowa).<a href="#_ftn40" name="_ftnref40" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn40;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[40]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The Titans
and The Treasures
were also from Minneapolis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Jim Waller and The Deltas were from Fresno,
California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Clashmen were from Tucson,
Arizona.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fender Four came from Berkeley,
California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Venturas hailed from Chicago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Citations were from Milwaukee
and The Royal Flairs
from Council Bluffs, Iowa.”<a href="#_ftn41" name="_ftnref41" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn41;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[41]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Dale’s sound and popularity,” wrote Blair, “formed an example for
aspiring teenage musicians; it was a shot in the arm for rudimentary rock and
roll on a local level.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Almost overnight
there was a demand for surf bands who could, rather easily and with a minimum
of musical invention, play in the style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Huncreds of bands emerged in Southern California, and for several years nearly
every suburban area had a large number of garage bands, usually centered around the
high schools.”<a href="#_ftn42" name="_ftnref42" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn42;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[42]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Most of the great tracks from the golden years of Surf Beat were recorded by bands of
teenagers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The people (kids in this case) had taken the
music back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Band names were mostly
innocent period handles like Dave & The Customs, The Pyramids, The Gladtones, The Blue Boys, The Lively Ones, and Dave Myers & The
Surftones.”<a href="#_ftn43" name="_ftnref43" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn43;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[43]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Themes of sex
and social deviance were also prevalent, along with the beach and
surf themes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Songs like The Blazers‘ “Beaver Patrol” were actually banned from
their local airwaves due to their “indecent“ titles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were also ominous songs in the
tradition of “Rumble”
like “Rumble On The Docks” and “Ray Bay”.<a href="#_ftn44" name="_ftnref44" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn44;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[44]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The bands often could not play in clubs because the band members
were under age
and were not signed by any labels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Instead, they rented halls and released their own records to sell at their own
shows/dances.<a href="#_ftn45" name="_ftnref45" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn45;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[45]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Outside, in the parking lot,” wrote Leonard Lueras in <i>Surfing: The Ultimate
Pleasure</i>, “woodies and Nomads were stuffed full of
surfboards and sleeping bags; inside, seminal surf groups -- such as the
Chantays,
Surfaris
and Dick Dale
and the Del Tones
-- let their tremolos
and reverbs run wild.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pendleton wools, bleeding Madras cottons, white Levis, surf shop T-shirts... <i>huarache</i> sandals and black Converse All-Star
tennis shoes rose and stomped through
anthems such as ‘Pipeline’,
‘Wipeout’,
‘Miserlou’
and ‘Let’s Go Trippin’.”<a href="#_ftn46" name="_ftnref46" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn46;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[46]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290383">The Beach Boys</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Where Dick Dale and other
primarily-instrumental surf bands tried to recreate the feel of surfing through
the music, there arose vocal bands whose forte was to sing about the surfing
lifestyle of Southern California.<a href="#_ftn47" name="_ftnref47" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn47;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[47]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Foremost of this group was the Beach Boys.</p>
<p class="LS">The Beach Boys, a harmonious quintet from the South Bay town of Hawthorne, and a loosely-related second
duet named Jan and Dean
combined vocals
with music to add yet another element into surf music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Their contribution was mixed harmonies and documentary (some say
poetic) lyrical treatments,” wrote Lueras.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>“Unlike Dale and guitar-slashing others who initiated the sounds and
feelings of surfing instrumentally, the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean
communicated what they felt about surfing -- and Southern California’s youth
culture -- by singing about it in lilting two, three or
four part harmony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their choral stuff
was simple, a la the Four Freshmen, but pretty, catchy and, most
important, relevant to the times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cars,
waves, and girls
were ‘happening’ in Southern California then, and these two groups
interpreted that adolescent era perfectly.”<a href="#_ftn48" name="_ftnref48" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn48;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[48]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An example is found in the Beach Boys’ first
surfing hit:</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><i>I got up this morning, turned on the radio,</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i>I was checkin’ out the surfin’ scene to see if I would go.</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i>And when the deejay tells me that the surfin’ is fine, </i></p>
<p class="LS"><i>That’s when I know my baby and I will have a good time.</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i>I’m goin’ surfin’...</i><a href="#_ftn49" name="_ftnref49" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn49;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[49]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“Indeed,” Lueras continued, “when the Beach Boys advised us that everybody was
‘goin’ surfin’, surfin’ U.S.A.,’ and Jan (Berry) and Dean (Torrance) assured us
that in Surf City
there would be ‘two girls for every boy,’ we believed their every word.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We ‘War Babies‘ were more than ready.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We waxed down our surfboards, couldn’t wait
till June, and from San Onofre to Sunset we prepared to cruise
Colorado Boulevard in little deuce coupes and 409s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fast cars -- and tasty waves -- were there
for the taking -- if we stayed away from ‘Dead Man’s Curve’.”<a href="#_ftn50" name="_ftnref50" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn50;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[50]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The Beach Boys
introduced mass market pop vocals to surf music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The “Doo-Wop styled syrupy harmonized
songs with sappy lyrics about surfing” bore little to no instrumental
resemblance to actual surf music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even
though it became nationally synonymous with surf music, the type of music the
Beach Boys performed can more correctly be labelled Beach Music or Surf Pop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not a small number of surf music officiados
consider the Beach Boys an embarrassment to the genre.<a href="#_ftn51" name="_ftnref51" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn51;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[51]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Reclusive Beach Boy Brian Wilson wrote many of the most
memorable lyrics
for both the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As such, he became very influential in surf
music in the mid-1960s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From his room in the Wilson home on the
corner of Hawthorne Boulevard and 119th Street, Brian Wilson composed some
of surfing’s most successful songs.<a href="#_ftn52" name="_ftnref52" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn52;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[52]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">A story is told of Wilson
and his composition, “Surfin’ U.S.A.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“It was about 1960 that Brian... then a student
at Hawthorne High School, began composing the tunes
that were to make the group famous... Then, however, his music was not
universally popular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fred Morgan, the high school band
director, recalled flunking Brian in music composition for writing ‘a song with
a bunch of chords in it’ rather than the sonata he’d requested.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘I gave him an F on a composition that later
became known as “Surfin’ U.S.A.”‘ Morgan said.”<a href="#_ftn53" name="_ftnref53" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn53;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[53]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290384">Early ‘60s Youth Culture</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“The lifestyle,” wrote Blair, “that formed the basis of, and a
casual relationship with, surf music had been developing since the 1950s and was, in retrospect, a
sociological and cultural phenomenon somewhat exclusive to Southern California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The combination of mobility and recreation
played a large role in this cultural lifestyle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There was, and still is, a psychological necessity for a car in the mind of the teenager (in some cases, an economical
necessity as well).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was through the
use of his car that the teenager sought his identity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the car was the means, then recreation was
the end of that means.”<a href="#_ftn54" name="_ftnref54" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn54;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[54]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Surf music not only emphasized the teenage beach lifestyle, but
represented it as well -- including attire and language.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The surf vernacular was extensive,” noted
Blair, “using cute little slang words as a private language to further support
the identity of the youth culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A number of these words or phrases were often
used as titles for recordings or as part of the liner notes on some record
albums in a ‘surfing dictionary‘ section of the back cover.”<a href="#_ftn55" name="_ftnref55" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn55;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[55]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Since there wasn’t any real nightclub activity in Hollywood or Los Angeles at the time,” continued
Blair, “the early surf bands performed at high schools, civic auditoriums, National Guard Armories, and practically any large
meeting hall sanctioned for dances by the controlling organization.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of these often-used locales were in Orange County (such as the Retail Clerk’s
Union Hall and the Harmony Park
Ballroom).”<a href="#_ftn56" name="_ftnref56" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn56;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[56]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Vocal groups like the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean attempted to capture the
essence of being a teenager and living in Southern
California with its surf and culture that emphasized mobility.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their recordings achieved national and
international exposure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In this way,
surfing was able to be vicariously shared with people in other parts of the
country and oversees who neither lived near a beach or ever touched a
surfboard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As the music became popular,
so did surfing, itself, become even more so.<a href="#_ftn57" name="_ftnref57" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn57;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[57]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">In this spreading out of the genre, of special note is Australia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slightly behind developments in the U.S., surf
music hit the Land Down Under in 1962.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The genre took hold in Australia in
the form of The Stomp.<a href="#_ftn58" name="_ftnref58" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn58;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[58]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although there were uniquely Australian
elements to the surf music movement within that country, the developments,
themselves, wrote Blair, “paralleled the California
scene in nearly every way.”<a href="#_ftn59" name="_ftnref59" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn59;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[59]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290385">Surf Music Industry</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">The typical composition of the average surf band involved five
instruments:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two guitars, a bass, saxophone and drums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most bands used a reverb on the lead guitar and Fender
amplifiers (particularly the Showman and Bandmaster models) and reverb units were
standard accessories.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fender Jaguar, Jazzmaster and Stratocaster guitar models became the
“accepted” choice for surf music officiados.<a href="#_ftn60" name="_ftnref60" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn60;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[60]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Scores of small, independent record labels sprang up,” wrote John Blair, the foremost authority on
surf music pressings during the golden age of Surf Beat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Some of them issued several different
recordings concerned with surfing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
majority, however, were single release efforts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>All that was needed was a little money to pay for a recording studio (in those days, an
inexpensive two or three-track studio might have cost $10 to $15 per hour!),
print some labels, and press a couple of hundred copies of the record.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although there were a number of bands across
the country who released surfing records, the majority of recordings
were issued by local Southern California groups.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The movement, for the most part, was
restricted to this relatively small geographic area.”<a href="#_ftn61" name="_ftnref61" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn61;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[61]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Virtually no one made any money from the sale of records,”
continued Blair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The intention was to
keep the fans and audiences supplied with recordings by their favorite bands,
to build that audience for personal appearances, or to generate interest in the
group by a major record company.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most
surf records were issued in very limited quantities (500 to 1000 copies in many
cases) and saw only regional distribution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If the record drew the attention of a major label, it was likely to be
re-released on that label for national distribution.”<a href="#_ftn62" name="_ftnref62" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn62;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[62]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">There was some crossover mixing between surf music and hot rod and
car songs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This cross-pollination can be heard in some
of the songs put out by the likes of Dick Dale, the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean.<a href="#_ftn63" name="_ftnref63" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn63;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[63]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290386">Surf Music’s Demise</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">The year 1963
was the nadir of surf music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“America’s
seemingly invincible youth were swept up in an exciting ‘free’ era punctuated
by drugs,
sex, rock ‘n roll and politics,” wrote Leonard Lueras.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Socially, most young people were sitting on
a strange cusp -- somewhere between a frat-rat/jock alcohol-based consciousness
and the first stirrings of psychedelia, hippie-ness and what law
enforcement officials liked to call ‘a false sense of euphoria.’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the above predated an unpopular war in
Vietnam...
In 1963, petrol cost 19 to 29 cents a gallon at the neighborhood U-Save, so for five dollars split
four ways you could check out every surf spot along a good 100 mile stretch of
Pacific Coast Highway.”<a href="#_ftn64" name="_ftnref64" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn64;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[64]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“Surf music reached its peak during the summer of 1963,” wrote surf discographer
John Blair,
“as evidenced by release dates, chart action, and media attention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Local Los Angeles television dance shows hosted by Sam Riddle and Lloyd Thaxton featured surf bands weekly
throughout that summer, and surf music was inescapable on the radio stations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The greatest percentage of surf-styled record
releases, most of them instrumental, were issued between June and September
that year.”<a href="#_ftn65" name="_ftnref65" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn65;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[65]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Some Surf Music authorities, like Phil Dirt, claim that the reason why
Surf Music was so easily killed-off, following the influx of British music by groups like the Beatles and Rolling Stones (the second “British
Invasion”), in 1964, was because it had degraded
to the Beach Boys
style rather than continuing to rely on instrumentals with reverb.</p>
<p class="LS">“Had the Beach Boys not softened the genre with the vocal thing,”
wrote Dirt, “or had they provided the raw midwest vocal approach, the raw power
of surf music would have been able to hold its own against the roughness of the
British R & B of the formative Rolling Stones, Animals & Pretty Things, and even against the pop
sensibilities of The Beatles and their ilk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among the reasons I believe this to be true
is the number of surf guitarists that evolved intro really gutsy garage punk and psychedelic players later, like the
incredible Randy Holden
and Dave Myers,
and the fact that the only band The Rolling Stones ever had to be subservient
to on the bill in the U.S. was Minneapolis surf legends The Trashmen!”<a href="#_ftn66" name="_ftnref66" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn66;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[66]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">The average 8-to-10 year pattern for a musical genre has been
outlined as follows:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>two to be born, two
to coalesce, another two for adolescence and to break out of the narrowness it
was initially defined under, and then four or five to bust out onto the
scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If this is the case, then surf
music was surely struck down in its infancy, possibly “by its own childish
sappy vocals
and the raw edge of the British Invasion.”<a href="#_ftn67" name="_ftnref67" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn67;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[67]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“The effects of this stoney ‘British Invasion’ were so profound
that once glamorous [musical] surfers soon found themselves floating quietly in
a cultural backwater.”<a href="#_ftn68" name="_ftnref68" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn68;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[68]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">“The surf sound,” repeated Trevor Cralle in his surf speak dictionary,
“peaked in 1963;
the advent of the Beatles
in early 1964
and the ‘British Invasion’ marked what is generally regarded as the end of the
surf music era.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yet original surf music
still has the energy, simplicity, and rawness of the setting that inspired it.”<a href="#_ftn69" name="_ftnref69" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn69;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[69]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">John Blair
maintains that surf music’s decline was due to a complex combination of factors
working before its ultimate demise in 1965.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“In the summer of 1963, between the peak of the
popularity of surf music and its fadeout by 1965, political, cultural, and
musical events happened that certainly contributed to its decline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Aside from the musical shift from surfing to
hot rods, the genre had an ironic handicap going against it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A strong national acceptance of the form was
difficult, since it was tied in so strongly with a lifestyle and geography indigenous to Southern
Califiornia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whatever momentum it had at the time was
suddenly retarded by the assasination of President Kennedy and the ensuing changes that
event caused in those of us who enjoyed, and participated in, the music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The war in Vietnam grew into more of a social
and political issue and, closer to home, the Watts riots
in 1965
helped to erode more of the idealism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After all, idealism was a very important part
of the local image projected in the music.”<a href="#_ftn70" name="_ftnref70" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn70;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[70]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Blair conceeded to some degree with Dirt’s perspective on the
British Invasion and the Motown onslaught that preceded it,
admitting, “the Beatles and Motown music probably did more to change musical
tastes than anything else.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Southern
California’s garage bands
reacted by either throwing away the reverb and adding a fuzz-tone to the guitar or by trading
in their Stratocaster
for a Rickenbacker 12-string.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They began to play mod-influenced rock with
certain protest overtones or folk-rock inspired by the Byrds, Simon and Garfunkel, or Bob Dylan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The music turned away from the beaches.”<a href="#_ftn71" name="_ftnref71" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn71;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[71]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290387">“You’ll Never Hear Surf Music Again”</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Even so, some surf bands hung in there on into 1967.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By then, most bands playing surf beat or surf
music had disbanded by the end of 1965.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some merely changed their name and
transitioned their style, like Dave Myers & The Surftones became Dave Myers & The
Disciples, then The Dave Myers Effect, then Arthur Lee & The
L.A.G.s (L.A. Group), and eventually
the psychedelic era classic band called Love.<a href="#_ftn72" name="_ftnref72" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn72;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[72]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h2><a name="_Toc102290388">JIMI HENDRIX</a></h2>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><i>And you’ll
never hear surf music again</i>...<a href="#_ftn73" name="_ftnref73" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn73;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[73]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span><i>So my darling
and I</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>make love in
the sand,</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>to salute the
last moment</i></p>
<p class="LS"><i><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>ever on dry land...</i><a href="#_ftn74" name="_ftnref74" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn74;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[74]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Jimi Hendrix
was a guitarist who, like Dick Dale, played his Fender
Stratocaster left-handed and upside down.<a href="#_ftn75" name="_ftnref75" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn75;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[75]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in his first album in 1967, he referenced surfing as
being dead.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A few years later, Hendrix
started getting into his own style of surf music shortly before he died.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In his first album “Are You Experienced?” (1967), the song “Third Stone
From The Sun” contained the lyrics “... and you’ll never hear
surf music again.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By 1970, Hendrix tunes like
“Drifting”
and “Pali Gap”
were outright tributes to the surfing lifestyle.<a href="#_ftn76" name="_ftnref76" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn76;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[76]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h2><a name="_Toc102290389">DICK DALE REDUX</a></h2>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Dick Dale
had become “tired of the rigors of the road” and disallusioned with the music
industry by the end of 1965.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He subsequently “retired.”<a href="#_ftn77" name="_ftnref77" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn77;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[77]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Late in 1966,
he was told by his doctors that he had 3 months to live.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After removal of six cancerous tumors and
four cysts, a long period of recovery and a good deal of soul searching, Dick
Dale re-emerged to play surf music from 1970 on.<a href="#_ftn78" name="_ftnref78" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn78;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[78]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This second round was highlighted in August
26, 1973, when he headlined “The First International
Surfer’s Stomp (Ten Years Later)”,
which was showcased at the Hollywood Palladium.<a href="#_ftn79" name="_ftnref79" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn79;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[79]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dick Dale kept playing on.</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290390">Surf Revival of the 1980s</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">The Surf Revival of the 1980s began in 1979.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was primarily a nostalgia thing, but with
80s energy.<a href="#_ftn80" name="_ftnref80" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn80;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[80]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was lead by groups like Jon and The
Nightriders, The Surf Raiders, The Halibuts, and Agent Orange.<a href="#_ftn81" name="_ftnref81" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn81;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[81]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290391">Surf Music of the 1990's<br /></a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Today, there are surf bands all over the world, including Germany and Japan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although its popularity as a genre is and
most likely never will be of the magnitude it was during the glory years of
1961-65,
as a musical form, it is stronger, today, than at any other time over the past
quarter century.</p>
<p class="LS">The Mermen
are an example of a contemporary surf band doing very well for itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Mermen have evolved steadily over 5 or 6
years, beginning with “raging covers of surf classics and obscuros to a heady
blend of surf and Hawkwind
influenced space to incredibly artful image evoking works.”<a href="#_ftn82" name="_ftnref82" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn82;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[82]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other contemporary surf bands include:</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Elliminators</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Dick Dale</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Insect Surfers</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Woodies</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Surfaris</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Challengers</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Ultras</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Chantays</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Aqua Velvets</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Pollo
Del Mar</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Impala</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Surf Raiders</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290392">Seeking Out Surf Music in the 1990s</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Speaking as someone who did it, getting back into surf music, these
days, is not as straight forward as you might think.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At one point, responding to an ad in a
reputable surf mag, I bought 4 surf music CDs for the price of three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I mentioned this deal to Phil Dirt and he let me have it:</p>
<p class="LS">“GNP Crescendo is a funny label,” Dirt wrote.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Their catalog is not generally authentic,
surfologically speaking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That doesn’t mean it’s bad, but if you look
at the Dick Dale
issue, it’s about 50% from Jim Pewter‘s 1975 GNP sessions, which both DD
and fans don’t like much, combined with generally lesser sixties material.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The new Challengers CD ‘New Wave’ sux, and the vintage CD is
from their post-surf lowest common denominator we-wanna-be-the-Ventures pop period originally
produced for GNP.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Surfaris ‘Surf Party’ is from an early 80’s Santa Ana show.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Very good performance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘Bustin’ Boards’ contains some dogs, some not
surf, a few GREAT things like Bobby Fuller & Jim Messina, and a killer modern original
from GNP mogul Neil Norman.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you can’t find the Bel Airs, let me know.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s available from Ruckas records in LA, home of the Iloki
label
on which it is released.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tower usually has it as well.”<a href="#_ftn83" name="_ftnref83" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn83;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[83]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">There’s a lot of junk out there and you have to know what to look
for.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Surf musicologist Phil Dirt suggests the following bands
to start out with:</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h2><a name="_Toc102290393">VINTAGE SURF BANDS on CD</a></h2>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Bel Airs</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Dick Dale & The Del-Tones</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Lively Ones</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Surfaris</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Challengers</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Chantays</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Dave Myers &
The Surftones</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Centurions</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Revels</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Cornells</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Blazers</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h2><a name="_Toc102290394">MODERN SURF BANDS on CD & Vinyl</a></h2>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Mermen</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Dick Dale</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Insect Surfers</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Woodies</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Surfaris</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Challengers</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Elliminators</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Ultras</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Chantays</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Aqua Velvets</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Pollo
Del Mar</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Impala</p>
<p class="LS"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>The Surf Raiders</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“The Bel Airs ‘Origins...’ CD is a good historical
starting place,” the Dirtman told me, “especially since some of their
recordings predate Dick Dale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another good cross section is Rhino Records ‘Legends of Guitar - Surf’ which includes some pretty
cool stuff like Jim Messina and The Fender Four.”<a href="#_ftn84" name="_ftnref84" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn84;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[84]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">A key problem in finding authentic surf music is the lack of
experienced help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Music store managers,
for the most part, can not be counted on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>As Billy Miller
of KICKS magazine put it, “I feel plenty sorry for those who
equate real surf music with The Ventures,” whose music after 1965 is a vast wasteland, “or
incidental background sounds for Annette to shake her pineapples by,
and ain’t never had their heads ground to mush by a Fender reverb sweetly cranked to 10!”<a href="#_ftn85" name="_ftnref85" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn85;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[85]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Exploration into surf music can be relatively painless, however, as
there are many very fine CDs being issued that cover the
genre, which one person called “A ritual twang and reverb mating call.”<a href="#_ftn86" name="_ftnref86" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn86;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[86]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290395">"Surf's Up!"<br /></a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">Rumor has it that he drives a black 1940 Ford Woody, “within eye shot of the
curl,” upon the roads of the Santa Cruz mountains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Phil Dirt is one of the leading surf
music historians in the country and he’s got the longest running instrumental
surf music show in the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Significantly, Dirt was the catalyst for the Bay Area surf music scene.</p>
<p class="LS">“Surf’s Up!” is the name of Dirt’s radio show that aired every
Saturday night, over the airwaves of Foothill College‘s KFJC.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The program featured cuts from the heyday of
surf music -- surf beat
-- from 1961
to 1965,
when approximately 1200 singles were produced by hundreds of surf bands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“These historic singles plus the work of more
than 100 bands currently playing and recording surf music around the world,”
reads a promo for Dirt’s show, “provide the foundation for Surf’s Up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Add to this foundation music from numerous
live radio concerts Phil produces, and you have an explosive gnarly reverb
swirl of totally tubular radio.”<a href="#_ftn87" name="_ftnref87" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn87;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[87]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS">Phil Dirt was a veteran surf music historian that played what he
listened to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He first heard surf beat on
KFWB-AM
in Los Angeles, in 1961, the year surf music
began.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the Fall of 1964, he briefly joined the on-air
staff at KFJC, but really did not get underway until nearly 20 years later,
when he rejoined KFJC
and produced a radio series on the evolution of rock ‘n roll, which also aired
on KALX,
in Berkeley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This series, entitled
“Waves”,
lead to his long-running “Surf’s Up!” program.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the “real world,” Phil Dirt is Frank Luft, a computer programmer who
worked in Silicon Valley.</p>
<p class="LS">Phil later on left the control room and became a performer,
himself.</p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc102290396">Eulogy to the Classic Surf Music Era</a></h1>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<p class="LS">“There are several historically interesting components of surf
music,” concluded John Blair in the preface to his book <i>The
Illustrated Discography of Surf Music, 1961-1965</i>, “that not only helped define
the style, but also made it a very unique event both musically and culturally;
it was the first time a musical style grew up around a sport; it was a
geographically isolated form of pop music for the
most part; and it reflected the lifestyle of a select group of young
people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Through the close association of
Dick Dale
and Leo Fender,
the portable reverb
unit became a standard band accessory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The numerous alterations and improvements that were made to guitar amplifiers
had an effect on the industry that lasted far beyond the obsolescence of surf
music.</p>
<p class="LS">“Surf music opened the door for many promising musicians to obtain
studio experience, both in front of and behind the microphone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of these individuals continued on to
become successful recording artists and/or producers (Glen Campbell [not the country music
singer], Leon Russell,
Jim Messina,
Hal Blaine,
Brian Wilson,
and Bruce Johnson, to name a few).</p>
<p class="LS">“For such a short-lived and faddish musical phenomenon, the number
of recordings the surf music era left behind is astonishing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Documenting the movement and the music would
be much easier if the recorded output had not been so vast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Making the task doubly difficult for the
discographer is the fact that so many of the bands were represented by only one
record that was pressed in a very limited quantity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After nearly 30 years, trying to locate these
records and finding information about the artists is a continuing task.”<a href="#_ftn88" name="_ftnref88" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn88;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[88]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="LS"> </p>
<div style="mso-element: footnote-list;"><br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="ftn1" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[1]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cralle,
Trevor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Surfin’ary</i>, pp.
131-132.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>See also</i> Blair,
“Guidelines for Identifying Surf Records, 1961-1965,” pp. vii--ix</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn2" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
John.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>The Illustrated Discography of
Surf Music, 1961-1965</i>, ©1978, 1983, 1985, 1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Popular Culture, Ink, P.O. Box 1839, Ann
Arbor, MI<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>48106, Third Edition,
introduction by Dick Dale, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn3" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Priore,
Domenic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“The Essential Surf Discography,”
<i>Longboard</i> Magazine, Volume 3, Number 3, August/September 1995, p. 75.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn4" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... Historical Perspective,”
homepage, ©1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn5" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn6" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn7" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[7]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn8" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref8" name="_ftn8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Priore, 1995.
p. 75.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn9" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref9" name="_ftn9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn10" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref10" name="_ftn10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn11" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref11" name="_ftn11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 134.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn12" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="surf10" style="text-indent: 0in;"><a href="#_ftnref12" name="_ftn12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: Times;"> Nauert, </span>Randy, bass guitar, The Challengers
Band, November 18, 1993</p>
</div>
<div id="ftn13" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref13" name="_ftn13" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn13;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[13]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn14" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref14" name="_ftn14" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn14;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[14]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn15" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref15" name="_ftn15" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn15;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[15]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Nauert, Randy. Email to Malcolm, May 2001.</p>
</div>
<div id="ftn16" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref16" name="_ftn16" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn16;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[16]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn17" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref17" name="_ftn17" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn17;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[17]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn18" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref18" name="_ftn18" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn18;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[18]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn19" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref19" name="_ftn19" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn19;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[19]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn20" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref20" name="_ftn20" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn20;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[20]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Capitol
Records, ©1963, reproduced in Blair, p. 167.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn21" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref21" name="_ftn21" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn21;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[21]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn22" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref22" name="_ftn22" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn22;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[22]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Into by Dick Dale, p. i.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn23" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref23" name="_ftn23" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn23;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[23]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn24" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref24" name="_ftn24" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn24;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[24]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Third Edition, introduction by
Dick Dale, p. i.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn25" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref25" name="_ftn25" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn25;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[25]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Introduction by Dick Dale, written
September 10, 1994, p. i.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn26" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref26" name="_ftn26" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn26;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[26]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn27" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref27" name="_ftn27" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn27;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[27]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Into by Dick Dale, p. i.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn28" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref28" name="_ftn28" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn28;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[28]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn29" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref29" name="_ftn29" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn29;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[29]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn30" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref30" name="_ftn30" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn30;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[30]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn31" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref31" name="_ftn31" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn31;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[31]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn32" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref32" name="_ftn32" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn32;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[32]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair,
1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Into by Dick Dale, p. i.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn33" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref33" name="_ftn33" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn33;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[33]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Fender
Reverb was actually introduced to the consumer market in 1961, with production
continuing through the late 1960s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Reverb circuitry was added to some amplifier models in 1963.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>See</i> Blair, 1995, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn34" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref34" name="_ftn34" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn34;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[34]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cralle, 1991,
p. 132.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn35" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref35" name="_ftn35" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn35;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[35]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn36" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref36" name="_ftn36" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn36;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[36]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. iii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn37" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref37" name="_ftn37" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn37;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[37]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt, 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn38" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref38" name="_ftn38" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn38;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[38]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Martel, Gary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Email message (infomix@aol.com) to
alt.surfing, March 6, 1996.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn39" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref39" name="_ftn39" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn39;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[39]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 134.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn40" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref40" name="_ftn40" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn40;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[40]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>See</i> also Lueras, 1984, p. 134.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn41" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref41" name="_ftn41" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn41;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[41]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn42" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref42" name="_ftn42" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn42;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[42]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
pp. iii-iv.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn43" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref43" name="_ftn43" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn43;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[43]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn44" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref44" name="_ftn44" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn44;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[44]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn45" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref45" name="_ftn45" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn45;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[45]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn46" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref46" name="_ftn46" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn46;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[46]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras,
Leonard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>Surfing, The Ultimate
Pleasure</i>, 1984, p. 134.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn47" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref47" name="_ftn47" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn47;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[47]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
iv.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn48" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref48" name="_ftn48" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn48;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[48]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 136.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn49" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref49" name="_ftn49" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn49;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[49]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Beach Boys,
“Surfin’” ©1961 by Guild Music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>See</i>
Blair, 1995, p. iv.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn50" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref50" name="_ftn50" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn50;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[50]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 136.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn51" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref51" name="_ftn51" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn51;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[51]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span lang="DE" style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: DE;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt, 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn52" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref52" name="_ftn52" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn52;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[52]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span lang="DE" style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: DE;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984, p. 136.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn53" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref53" name="_ftn53" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn53;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[53]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span lang="DE" style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: DE;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Feldman, Paul.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><i><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;">Los
Angeles Times</span></i><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;">, Summer 1983, on the
occasion of the Beach Boys being invited to sing at the White House by
then-president Ronald Reagan.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn54" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref54" name="_ftn54" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn54;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[54]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
iv.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn55" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref55" name="_ftn55" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn55;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[55]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
pp. iv-v.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn56" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref56" name="_ftn56" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn56;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[56]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
v.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It wasn’t until 1964 that teenage
nightclubs began to proliferate in Southern California,
due mainly to the social and musical explosion brought about by the British
Invasion.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn57" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref57" name="_ftn57" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn57;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[57]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
v.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn58" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref58" name="_ftn58" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn58;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[58]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>See</i>
Chapter 11, “1962.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn59" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref59" name="_ftn59" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn59;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[59]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
v.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn60" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref60" name="_ftn60" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn60;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[60]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
pp. v-vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn61" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref61" name="_ftn61" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn61;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[61]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn62" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref62" name="_ftn62" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn62;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[62]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn63" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref63" name="_ftn63" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn63;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[63]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn64" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref64" name="_ftn64" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn64;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[64]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 136.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn65" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref65" name="_ftn65" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn65;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[65]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
vii.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn66" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref66" name="_ftn66" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn66;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[66]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn67" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref67" name="_ftn67" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn67;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[67]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn68" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref68" name="_ftn68" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn68;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[68]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 137.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn69" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref69" name="_ftn69" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn69;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[69]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cralle, 1991,
p. 132.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn70" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref70" name="_ftn70" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn70;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[70]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn71" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref71" name="_ftn71" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn71;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[71]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995,
preface, p. vi.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn72" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref72" name="_ftn72" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn72;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[72]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “ 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn73" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref73" name="_ftn73" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn73;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[73]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hendrix,
Jimi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Third Stone Form The Sun,” <i>Are
You Experienced?</i> Reprise, ©1967.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn74" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref74" name="_ftn74" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn74;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[74]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hendrix,
Jimi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“1983 A Merman I Shall Turn To
Be,” <i>Electric Ladyland</i>, Reprise, ©1969.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn75" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref75" name="_ftn75" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn75;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[75]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lueras, 1984,
p. 137.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn76" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref76" name="_ftn76" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn76;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[76]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hendrix,
Jimi.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Are You Experienced?” ©1967; “Rainbow Bridge,” ©1970.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn77" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref77" name="_ftn77" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn77;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[77]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn78" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref78" name="_ftn78" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn78;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[78]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn79" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref79" name="_ftn79" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn79;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[79]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pewter,
Jim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Liner notes for the Crescendo CD
release of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Dick Dale and His Del-Tones,
Greatest Hits, 1961-1976.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn80" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref80" name="_ftn80" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn80;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[80]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt, 1995.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn81" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref81" name="_ftn81" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn81;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[81]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cralle, 1991,
p. 132.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn82" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref82" name="_ftn82" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn82;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[82]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“What Is Surf Music?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Installment One... “</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn83" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref83" name="_ftn83" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn83;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[83]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Correspondence, 9/13/95.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn84" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref84" name="_ftn84" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn84;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[84]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dirt,
Phil.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Correspondence, 9/6/95.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn85" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref85" name="_ftn85" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn85;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[85]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Priore, p.
75.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Billy Miller, from KICKS magazine,
quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn86" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref86" name="_ftn86" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn86;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[86]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Priore, p.
75.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Johnny Whiteside of LA WEEKLY quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn87" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref87" name="_ftn87" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn87;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[87]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“About Phil
Dirt,” on Phil Dirt’s homepage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Originally written for the <i>Eclectic Ear</i>, a publication of the
Coalition For Eclectic Radio, p. 1.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn88" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref88" name="_ftn88" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn88;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Times;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Times; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[88]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Blair, 1995, p.
vi.</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p></p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-62933814906714093712022-03-30T20:59:00.001-07:002022-03-30T20:59:35.555-07:00Children of the Tide<p>Writings and artworks describing and depicting wave riding in 10th Century Hangzhou, China, came to light in the first decades of the 21st Century. The discovery was made by Nicola "Nik" Zanella, surfer and student of Chinese literature and language, who went on to write <i>Children of the Tide</i>, about a kind of wave-riding culture that existed at the Qiantang River Bore in Hangzhou, during the Song Dynasty (960 AD to 1279 AD).</p><p>In 2006, Zanella was visiting a Buddhist temple in Kunming, the capital and largest city of China’s Yunnan province. There, he saw a bas-relief (a form of sculpting that has less depth to the faces and figures than they actually have, when measured proportionatey to scale. An ideal form of sculpture best suited for walls) that showed a group of Arhats (Buddhists who have achieved Nirvana), doing something that looked similar to surfing. One of the Arhats in particular appeared to be doing something exactly like surfing. “The guy was standing up, his pose was exactly what we teach – back foot flat, front foot at a 45-degree angle, looking five meters in front of the board,” he told the <i>South China Morning Post</i>. “And his face – he looked stoked.” The surfer in question was, however, riding a fish.</p><p>Zanella asked someone at the temple about the sculpture. He was told that the people in the sculpture were from Hangzhou, which is the place where the Red Bull sponsored "Battle of the Silver Dragon" event is held, on one of the world’s largest tidal bores in the Qiantang River.</p><p>As Zanella researched, he found a story called "Contemplating the Tide," written by a poet named Zhou Mi. In the story, Zhou wrote about a festival where spectators watched as “hundreds of brave watermen … with unfastened hair and tattoos, holding colored flags, race to the water … they paddle towards the oncoming waves … then they leap up and perform a hundred maneuvers without getting the tail of their flags even slightly wet.”</p><p>The poet went on to describe the actions of the competitors in greater detail: “They gather in a group of a hundred, holding colored flags, and compete in treading waves,” he wrote. “They head straight to the river mouth to welcome the tide. Moreover, there are some who tread on drifting wood … performing hundreds of water tricks, having fun, each displaying great mastery.”</p><p>These wave riders rode the Qiantang River Bore as part of the annual autumn festival, to help appease the God of the Tide (aka the Dragon King) – and for the entertainment of the Emperor.</p><p>How did Nik Zanella's discovery develop?</p><p>"It’s a long love affair," he admitted. "I took Chinese language and literature in university in 1988, and have been surfing since the mid-80's. I spent the last decade working at surf development projects in China, lately coaching part of the National Surfing Team.</p><p>"So my two passions, China and surfing, always went hand-in-hand. I started working on the book in 2014, but the research took off 10-years before that. Traveling to China, I kept bumping into traces of wave-riding and wave-watching in Chinese art and literature.</p><p>"In 2006 I found the Surfing Buddhas of Kunming inside a monastery, while trekking in Yunnan province. The temple’s wall showed this clay bas-relief of about 30 surfers, dated 1880."</p><p>Writer Jason Lock asked Zanella, a bit increduously, "Who were [the surfers] and why were they doing this? [And] How could the sculptor, born at the beginning of the 19th Century [hundreds of years later]... so realistically depict surfing if he had not seen surfing?"</p><p>"I spoke with the temple’s Abbott and received the key-words that got me going," Zanella replied. "The key words were 弄潮儿 (Children of the Tide) and most of my research has been about looking for them through 5,000-years of documented history and literature."</p><p>The Children of the Tide apparently rode the river bore at Hangzhou. A tidal bore forms when the water from a river reverses and the tide pushes water up the river. The Qiantang River at Hangzhou has the world's largest tidal river bore which can be over 4 meters high, 3 kilometers wide and travel with a speed in excess of 24 km/hr. (15 mph). At certain locations, reflected waves can reach 10 meters in height. Its roar can be heard over an hour before its arrival. It is strongest in the fall season, but also occurs at other times of the year.</p><p>Not only was Hangzhou special because of the bore, but the time of the Song Dynasty was a special time, too. "We know a lot about the Song," Zanella said. "It was a vibrant open-minded society in all aspects. Hangzhou was one of the richest towns on the planet, hosting over one million inhabitants, at the forefront of art, medicine and technology. Sports like climbing, polo, boat-racing, swimming and even a local version of soccer were all practised. Wave riding could fit right in this cultural mood."</p><p>Was the wave riding a religious activity?</p><p>"It was religion and free surfing as well,." answered Zanella. "At that stage, wave riding was most likely the prerogative of the Wu people, boatmen living in southern China since prehistoric times. There’s several legends revolving about the wave and the people taming it.</p><p>"Several sources compare them to Buddhist monks. The act of ‘treading waves' (踏浪 talang in Chinese) was mainly associated with the God of the Tide (also known as the Dragon King). By offering their bodies to the tidal wave, the Children of the Tide could placate the God's raging soul and prevent calamities.</p><p>"Note that the God of Tide is still venerated in the Qiantang Delta area. This ritual was performed during the Mid Autumn Festival, when the wave is at its biggest and the emperor would commission a sumptuous military parade that culminated with the Children of the Tide performing on the tidal bore. But there clearly was a recreational aspect to this, and the practice was continued, beyond the official rite, for the pure joy of riding waves.</p><p>"The activity did take off and lasted quite a while actually." Unfortunately, "it was banned many times, but local fishermen kept riding the wave in secret. The activity [eventually] faded because of environmental and social problems.</p><p>"First of all, risking your life for fun was not considered morally acceptable by the regency, who used the expertise of the Children of the Tide to perform rites, but couldn’t stand the recreational, dangerous side of the activity and policed free-surfing almost to extinction.</p><p>"The other reason of it fading was the river became increasingly fortified. Most mud banks disappeared and access became dangerous."</p><p>What were the Children of the Tide riding?</p><p>"Bodysurfing, riding on pieces of wood, canoes and even sailboats," answered Zanella. "One poem in particular speaks about the “fish of the god of the tide”, and that’s why the surfing Buddhas are depicted riding carps, a sacred fish. Fishermen from the area confirm that small rowing boats and planks of wood were used until the recent past.</p><p>"Living in China, I had access to teachers and experts. My wife Yang Li has an MA in Chinese History, we both love Hangzhou and that dynasty. I slowly collected relevant pieces of literature, translated them, double check with competent people, then did philologic work on the key words.</p><p>"That is what the core chapters [of my book] revolve around and that took the longest time. But the book is not an essay. All the research is woven into a narration that starts in dynastic times and reaches the present. It’s the story of the Children of the Tide and how their story somehow influenced modern Chinese surfing.</p><p>"The Polynesians were most likely standing up on boards before the Children of the Tide. And the Peruvians with the Caballitos de Totora pre-date both. So asking ‘who did what first’ is not the right way to put it. What’s important here is that the Chinese were the first to write about it."
</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPyEIhuzZjDVgm_ZUC5dcUpHlD7bqjIsiNFotsx3kUq60_Pz6ykbt8eANd0dJhzSNYAaPAHjKQlJehgK5NWVfJ2ApfzjzAjk24CB8jz11Q9ypGtXp5_SaSwNKYMKuuYFHWoagnu4Z6aohdX0JrRtFDXJaX7hOmxWyd8PNxQuind0pGCmVLG7iQqbyZg/s3682/children-of-the-tide.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="2697" data-original-width="3682" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLPyEIhuzZjDVgm_ZUC5dcUpHlD7bqjIsiNFotsx3kUq60_Pz6ykbt8eANd0dJhzSNYAaPAHjKQlJehgK5NWVfJ2ApfzjzAjk24CB8jz11Q9ypGtXp5_SaSwNKYMKuuYFHWoagnu4Z6aohdX0JrRtFDXJaX7hOmxWyd8PNxQuind0pGCmVLG7iQqbyZg/s320/children-of-the-tide.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>
Sources
Lock, Jason. "The Forgotten Surfers of 10th Century China," <i>Magic Seaweed</i>, 12 June 2019.
<a href="" target="_blank">https://magicseaweed.com/news/the-forgotten-surfers-of-10th-century-china/11396/</a> </p><p>Haro, Alexander. “Researcher Finds Evidence That Surfing May Have Originated in China Nearly 1,000 Years Ago,” <i>The Inertia</i>, 3 March 2021. <a href="" target="_blank">https://www.theinertia.com/surf/surfing-may-have-started-in-china-1000-years-ago-bas-relief-sculpture-from-buddhist-temple/</a>
</p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-74291080461314340682022-02-19T19:41:00.005-08:002022-07-13T01:58:08.897-07:00Surfing's Origins<p><span style="font-family: arial;">Aloha and <span>Welcome to this chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series that begins i<span>t all.</span></span></span></p><p><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;">Unlike all the other chapters in these volumes, this small <span>introduct<span>ion is mostly my opinion about how and where and by whom surfing f<span>irst started.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span><span><span><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;">Who were the first Surfers and when did surfing begin?</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span><span><span><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;"><br />Actually, we will
never know the answers to these questions, mainly because catching a
wave and riding it most assuredly began before such things were
documented and probably before documentation of human activity even
began.<br /><br />Sure, we have Polynesian oral histories, petroglyphs, and
Peruvian artifacts -- as well as much later written records by
Europeans, but they don't tell us when surfing <span>really</span> began.<br /><br />Despite all
this we can make certain logical guesses that can shed light on the
questions themselves and give us a better idea of when surfing began and
by whom. <br /><br />If we include bodysurfing, then the first beaches
surfed <span>must have been</span> those along the African Coast -- specifically those with
long sandy shelfs that facilitate standing and jumping into waves about
to break without <span>going over one's head</span>.<br /><br />The first body surfing surfers were probably homo
sapiens, but also could have been our hominid ancestors. I feel,
however, that surfing probably did not happen as an activity until after
humans achieved cognition (the mental action or process of acquiring
knowledge and understanding through experiences and the senses),
currently estimated at about 70,000 years ago.<br /><br />If we don't count
bodysurfing in our subject of the First Surfers, and specify having to
ride some object used for buoyancy -- say a log or even a small fishing
canoe -- the coast of Africa is still the most logical location and the
First Surfers post cognitive homo sapiens, tens of thousands of years
ago.<br /><br />If we define surfing strictly as riding prone or standing on
what Bob Simmons referred to as "plates", the First Surfers were Austronesians at some point in their migration across the Pacific Ocean. These are the people we trace today's surf culture back to -- specifically the subgroup Polynesians.<br /><br />What
about those Peruvian artifacts of riders straddling reed craft,
estimated at three thousand years ago? My feeling is that riding waves
on bundled reads goes far further back in time and may include ri<span>ver riding</span> with and without coastlines. In Peru, <span>surfing <span>with bundled reeds</span></span> certainly
goes no further back than the migration of humans into the area,
currently estimated at between <span>around <span>11,000 to 1</span></span>3,000 years ago but probably go back f<span>urther, possibl<span>y to 20,000-25,000 years ago</span></span>.</span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span><span><span><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;"><br />As a final state<span>ment:</span> it is my opinion that jumping into breaking waves and riding them for a
short while (simple bodysurfing) has been practiced worldwide for tens
of thousands of years and was not limited to certain areas like Africa, South America or P<span>olynesia</span>. Wherever
there are waves, and a way to ride them, there have been people jumping
into them and having the same fun we all experience when we do so,
today. <br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjuGaz-W748uhWkbtcKsu5uei6QO0P_dD8FUOI5ol_7M1Ti5CQ-5qeTDbgIKnfqjKwgUh9lZwJeJcbwlBPKdWbakOrBbrSfXkds53f2pKjeS2rsHwqamRM3uUUtDUywqD7segmWvwPc-ES_AyrGddGI3LbU4Bb3CtAlUELRSmhMv1CHOeeJctDSIvBFTg=s2368" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2368" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjuGaz-W748uhWkbtcKsu5uei6QO0P_dD8FUOI5ol_7M1Ti5CQ-5qeTDbgIKnfqjKwgUh9lZwJeJcbwlBPKdWbakOrBbrSfXkds53f2pKjeS2rsHwqamRM3uUUtDUywqD7segmWvwPc-ES_AyrGddGI3LbU4Bb3CtAlUELRSmhMv1CHOeeJctDSIvBFTg=s320" width="320" /></a><span><span><span><span><span><span> </span></span></span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span><span><span><span><span><span><span style="font-family: arial;">Malcolm pro<span>ning out on shorebreak, 1993.</span></span><br /></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-49414255528681799862021-11-26T19:03:00.003-08:002021-11-26T22:13:10.903-08:00Tommy Zahn (1924-1991)<p>"Figures like Tom [Blake] and Duke [Kahanamoku] are really historic figures... Had they never existed, the sport wouldn't be quite the same. And where can you find guys in this game who led such exemplary lives? These were the real contributors and innovators. I did none of these things... I surfed, paddled and swam for the pure joy of it all. I was successful in some of my ventures... all more or less forgettable. I tried (not always succeeding) in living an exemplary life. It was my pleasure to have been personally acquainted with figures like Duke, Tom, Pete [Peterson], Rabbit [Kekai], George [Downing], Joe [Quigg], Wally [Froiseth], Gene [Tarzan Smith]; but I have no desire to beome a 'professional-grand-old-man-of-surfing.'" -- Tom Zahn, November 5, 1989 </p><p> "You will get your day of recognition when the long boards come back." -- Tom Blake to Tom Z., August 1967 </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG60cyiMsJW3wAltzgWoct5I7yBAvkKplglxTUCB2sDcJiUD-mxGioGrVNy8h_UDyqpPIhUTZDLGHywafOgbTNycvnKHzU9PQ0kaQUQcwE3RaosMGH-I7IihjEoVgCkn32wC2ZE66z7th9/s255/zahn_coverOLD.GIF" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="255" data-original-width="230" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG60cyiMsJW3wAltzgWoct5I7yBAvkKplglxTUCB2sDcJiUD-mxGioGrVNy8h_UDyqpPIhUTZDLGHywafOgbTNycvnKHzU9PQ0kaQUQcwE3RaosMGH-I7IihjEoVgCkn32wC2ZE66z7th9/s1600/zahn_coverOLD.GIF" width="230" /></a></div> My unedited biography of Tommy Zahn -- part of which was published in the <i>Surfer's Journal</i>, Volume 9, Number 2, Spring/Summer 2000 -- was available in printable ebook form for purchase for many years and was very popular to those in the know.<p></p><p>This 24,792 word chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series -- over 50% longer than it's shorter brother printed in the TSJ -- is now included in the collection free for the reading and sharing.</p><p>Link location of the PDF file: </p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bE5fX4CezITKKt81X1MoMUbUHEBXLCfp/view?usp=drivesdk">https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bE5fX4CezITKKt81X1MoMUbUHEBXLCfp/view?usp=drivesdk</a></p><p>When prompted for a password, enter:
marilyn </p><p> </p><p>Aloha and Thank You for Your Interest in My Writings! </p><p><b>Malcolm Gault-Williams</b> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJ_2q_6-aoUS157a4f-M4bhR4VCzV31_0IM0OHVWZK3gdByaUOkfu8RKz2NGhiBJcgh65rLxrHvmL7YOzEU0j-XX0Ofp8MKQ9_D07j5T38t8DfKDc6kKXZO1m9kisSBB-MsV-uLn-i49A/s128/zahn_cover-smOLD.GIF" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="128" data-original-width="115" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJ_2q_6-aoUS157a4f-M4bhR4VCzV31_0IM0OHVWZK3gdByaUOkfu8RKz2NGhiBJcgh65rLxrHvmL7YOzEU0j-XX0Ofp8MKQ9_D07j5T38t8DfKDc6kKXZO1m9kisSBB-MsV-uLn-i49A/s1600/zahn_cover-smOLD.GIF" width="115" /></a></div> Chapter Contents: <p></p><p> Boards, Boats & Lifeguarding
As A Kid
Tom Blake
Pete Peterson
War Years
Pete's Plastic Board, 1946
Hollywood & Marilyn
The Islands
Haole Treatment
Island Influences
George Downing
Rabbit Kekai
1947 - Zahn, Quigg, Kivlin, Rochlen & Melonhead The Darrylin Board, 1947-48
The Malibu Perpetual Surfboard
Paddling ChampMolokai to O‘ahu, October 1953
Diamond Head Paddleboard Race, 1954
"Bounding the Blue on Boards"
Catalina-to-Manhattan Beach Paddle Races
Catalina-to-Manhattan, 1955
Catalina-to-Manhattan, 1956
Sculling
Australia, 1956
The Kivlin to Dora Connection
Late 1950s, Early 1960s
Catalina to Manhattan Beach Paddleboard Race, 1958
Catalina to Manhattan Beach Paddleboard Race, 1960
Catalina-to-Manhattan Beach Paddleboard Race, 1961
Diamond Head Paddleboard Race, 1962
The Lifeguard's Lifeguard
Skin Cancer, 1979
1984's Almost Forced Retirement
Paddling Mentor
Jim Mollica
Mike Young
Craig Lockwood
"Recollecting Zahn" by Craig Lockwood
First Encounter
Second Meeting
Making Time
Zahn's Other Side
End of an Era
Waterman Memorial
Design Guru
One For Pete
Taplin Talk </p><p>Tommy listed "A few significant extracts" from his "Aquatic Sports Activities." In his order, they are:
2 times winner - Surf Life Saving Association (SLSA) of Hawaii Rough Water Swimming Championships
4 times winner - Diamond Head Paddleboard Championships, Honolulu, Hawaii
5 times winner - Catalina to Manhattan Beach Paddleboard Race
Winner - 1956 International Rescue Board Race, Surf Life Saving Association of Australia
2 times winner - Hermosa-Manhattan 2 Mile Roughwater Swim (age group)
CIF Swim Finalist - High School
US Navy Swim Team - San Diego
First Senior Olympics 1 Mile, Run-Swim-run & Relay, 1980-82 </p><p>And, in "Related Work Experience," in the order Tommy listed them:
24 Years skipper of rescue boat Baywatch Santa Monica. Second highest rescue count of all 8 Baywatch stations.
7 Years as Training Officer for the Lifeguard and Harbor Division, Santa Monica
Part time Training Consultant for the California State Lifeguard Service, District 5, 1961-62
Captain and Training Officer for the Honolulu City and County Lifeguard Service, 1959; Reorganized the service </p><p>Also noteworthy, but unlisted by Zahn:
Pacific Coast Dory Championship, twice
</p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-2775004848162026532021-09-15T19:51:00.000-07:002021-09-15T19:51:22.825-07:00E.J. Oshier: Between The Cove and Nofre<p> <!--[if !mso]>
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</p><p class="alsformat"><a name="_Toc487608107"></a><a name="_Toc484312044"></a><a name="_Toc484299447"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc484312044;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc487608107;"></span></span></a></p><p class="alsformat">Aloha and welcome to the LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on E.J.
Oshier, who began surfing in the mid-1930’s as a member of the Palos Verdes
Surfing Club. Included with E.J.’s story is a comparison of the top surf clubs
of the 1930’s, a history of San Onofre as a surfing spot, and the restart of
surfing at Santa Cruz in the early 1940’s.</p>
<p class="alsformat">After finishing the draft of this chapter in summer 2001, I
was stoked to receive the following note from E.J., written on June 4, 2001, in
his notations and corrections to the draft:</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Dear Malcolm:</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Kudos and accolades. Your treatment of your subject was superb.
Especially the way you wove my story in with the rest of the sources. The
action flowed right along and I believe the accuracy is about 100%...</p>
<p class="alsformat">“And Aloha, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>E.J.”</p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgDd98aGrU7ymcW7eJMHCYY88tmc2oURtJH5yn7DqmKDqnaWKcPJOMITjY9cnUCCTr9cmDv4RwpJFKjBniw1yZDsNPcad_bDxtyo5Sh7e5oeqiZot4FUxV9jtTYWJstTIgaeHu60llZcY/s658/ej-peanuts-so37.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="658" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWgDd98aGrU7ymcW7eJMHCYY88tmc2oURtJH5yn7DqmKDqnaWKcPJOMITjY9cnUCCTr9cmDv4RwpJFKjBniw1yZDsNPcad_bDxtyo5Sh7e5oeqiZot4FUxV9jtTYWJstTIgaeHu60llZcY/s320/ej-peanuts-so37.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<p class="alsformat">Left to right: Peanuts Larson and E.J. Oshier, San Onofre
1937</p>
<p class="alsformat">Photographer unknown, but probably Doc Ball</p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677335">Contents</a></h1>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677335">Contents<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">1</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677336">Palos
Verdes Surfing Club<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">3</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677337">Early
California Clubs<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">4</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677338">Hollows
& Solids<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">5</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677339">San Onofre<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">7</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677340">“Gay
Ole Times”<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">8</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677341">San O
and The Cove, Pre-WWII<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">10</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677342">Santa
Cruz, Pre-WWII<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">13</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677343">Post
War ‘Nofre<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">15</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677344">The
San Onofre Surfing Club<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">16</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677345">A
Family Beach<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">18</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677346">Since
the 1970’s<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">20</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677347">Bamboo
Room Philharmonic<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">21</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoToc1" style="tab-stops: right dotted 431.5pt;"><span class="MsoHyperlink"><span style="mso-no-proof: yes;"><a href="#_Toc82677348">No
Secret Statement<span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1 dotted;">.. </span></span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;">22</span><span style="color: windowtext; display: none; mso-hide: screen; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; font-weight: normal; mso-bidi-font-family: "Angsana New"; mso-bidi-language: TH; mso-no-proof: yes; text-transform: none;"></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">Those who are members of surf clubs know, but few who aren’t
do not: organized groups of surfers vary greatly; from the formal to the
informal; from the organized to the disorganized; from the active to the rarely
summoned and; from those born of desire and those born of necessity. Such is it
now and such was it back in the days of Southern
California’s first surfing clubs.</p>
<p class="alsformat">It’s not uncommon for more than one club to have the same
member. One such man active during the mid-1930s -- when California’s early surf clubs got going, and
then later on -- was E.J. Oshier. He easily moved between the two major surf
clubs of the time: the Palos Verdes Surfing Club (PVSC) and the rag-tag
partiers at San Onofre. He’d be part of the Palos Verdes crew in winter and
then, come summer, shift over to San O. Because he surfed in both groups, he
developed a unique perspective on them and the times.</p>
<p class="alsformat">Born February 4, 1916 in Oakland, California, Everett .J.
Oshier started on hollow boards but then moved to solids around 1936-37.<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn1" name="_ftnref1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[1]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The way I started in surfing was – I was going to – then it
was called ‘Los Angeles
Junior College’
(LAJC) – up on Vermont
Avenue in Los Angeles,” E.J. began, using correct
Spanish pronunciation: ‘los-an-GHEL-ESS,’ not ‘loss-ann-jell-iss’. “I was going
there and I was on the gym team, doing the horizontal bar and that sort of
thing. And, so I decided I was such a hot gymnast, maybe I could be a good
diver [exhibition diver]. So, one afternoon after gym was over, I went over to
the swimming pool to talk to the coach about what my chance was to be a diver.
So, he checked me out (laughs) – I was a lousy diver! While I was there – it
was a lovely day and all – the swimming team was working out and I sat down
with a couple of swimmers, in between workouts, and I got to talking to ‘em. I
got along with them and they said – it kind of came up that they were going to
Palos Verdes. They were building paddle boards and going to Palos Verdes and
riding waves down there, like the Hawaiians.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Well, that kind of tickled my fancy. A lot of the guys
there on that swimming team were guys that became members of the Palos Verdes
Surfing Club [PVSC]: Dutchy Lenkeit, Adie Bayer, Jimmy Reynolds, Kay Murray,
Daryl Miller, Gene Hornbeck…”<a href="#_ftn2" name="_ftnref2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677336"></a><a name="_Toc448962719"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677336;">Palos Verdes Surfing Club</span></a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">The prime motive force behind the Palos Verdes club was John
“Doc” Ball, dentist and pioneer surf photographer. “He rented a second story,
five room suite above a movie theatre that then stood at that address,” wrote foremost
Doc Ball biographer Gary Lynch. “One room was dedicated to working on his
patients and one room served as his bedroom, office, darkroom and laboratory.”<a href="#_ftn3" name="_ftnref3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
A third room constituted the Palos Verdes Surfing Club, after it was formed in
1935.<a href="#_ftn4" name="_ftnref4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Doc painted the murals on the club walls, located at Vermont and Santa Barbara streets. “There was the surfing
club room,” explained E.J. “It was on the second floor, looking down at Vermont Avenue.
Then, you ducked under a low door into his dark room. Then, you walked through
another door into his dental office.”<a href="#_ftn5" name="_ftnref5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The interior of the club room,” reconstructed Gary Lynch,
from Doc’s personal photographs, “was elaborately decorated with photographs of
all members with their boards, trophies won by club members, surfing paintings,
a president’s desk with gavel, and a set of shark’s jaws that housed the club
creed.”<a href="#_ftn6" name="_ftnref6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I as a member of the Palos Verdes Surfing Club, Do solemnly
swear:</p>
<p class="alsformat"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“To be ever steadfast
in my allegiance to the club and to its members,</i></p>
<p class="alsformat"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“To respect and adhere
to the aims and ideals set forth in its constitution,</i></p>
<p class="alsformat"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“To cheerfully meet
and accept my responsibilities hereby incurred,</i></p>
<p class="alsformat"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“And at all times
strive to conduct myself as a club member and a gentleman,</i></p>
<p class="alsformat"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">“So help me God.”</i><a href="#_ftn7" name="_ftnref7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[7]</span></b></span></span></span></i></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">Doc initially got together with Adie Bayer to found the
club. “He was one of the big ones,” Doc told me, referring to Adie Bayer as one
of the top surfers of the era.<a href="#_ftn8" name="_ftnref8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Bayer was a champion platform diver, swimmer, tennis player, as well as an
outstanding surfer.<a href="#_ftn9" name="_ftnref9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Even hollowboard innovator Tom Blake – who was looked up to by all the guys in
the PVSC — held Adie Bayer in high regard to the day Blake died.<a href="#_ftn10" name="_ftnref10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"><strong><span style="font-family: Times; font-weight: normal;">“Photographic
evidence tells us Adie Bayer was probably the finest hollowboard rider on the
coast, in the 1930’s,” Gary Lynch wrote. “Few really good surfers used hollows.
Adie stuck with them and tried in vain to overcome the obstacles of riding one.
Check out the photos of Adie at big ‘Ski Jump’ [in Doc Ball’s <i>California
Surfriders</i> book], he’s the man. Also, there are many images of AB riding
parallel on surf when no one else was really doing it well. The rails of the
hollows were 90 degrees and would not support foam hitting them without
knocking the board out from under you. Adie did his best to stay just in front
of the foam for this reason.</span></strong></p>
<p class="alsformat"><strong><span style="font-family: Times; font-weight: normal;">“He
was a great/champion spring board diver, swimmer, tennis player, and painter
(artist) too. An all around athlete and man.”</span></strong><a href="#_ftn11" name="_ftnref11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">For non-members, entrance into the PVSC club room was by
invitation only. The club had a sargent-at-arms and smoking was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">verboden.</i> In addition to coordinating
surf sessions between members, the PVSC organized paddling races, paddleboard
water polo matches, and surfing contests.<a href="#_ftn12" name="_ftnref12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“It started a little bit before I did,” remembered E.J. of
the PVSC. “Adie Bayer and Doc Ball put that together. They started 9 months,
maybe a year, before I got started… When I started surfing there [at Palos
Verdes Cove], Tulie Clark was coming down and… we got along real well with Adie
Bayer and Doc Ball and all the guys that were down there.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“The club decided the first two new members would be Tulie
Clark and me. So, we were the first members that weren’t charter members; the
first new members taken in. That probably happened in 1936…”<a href="#_ftn13" name="_ftnref13" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn13;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[13]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677337">Early </a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677337;">California</span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677337;"> Clubs</span></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">The Palos Verdes guys were not the first Mainland surfers to
group together, however. Because it organized the first annual Pacific Coast
Surfing Championship in 1928, the Corona del Mar Surf Board Club has the honor
of being the first and undeniably “the largest club of this kind in America,”
according to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">The Santa Ana Daily Register</span></i><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">, July 31, 1928.</span><a href="#_ftn14" name="_ftnref14" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn14;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[14]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Another notable surf club in
the early 1930’s was</span> the Hermosa Beach Surfing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Club, forming in 1934. They had about 18
members, including Don Grannis and Ted Davies.<a href="#_ftn15" name="_ftnref15" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn15;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[15]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">The following year was “A banner year,” Surfer “Chuck A Luck”
Ehlers recalled of 1935, when, to the south, “the Palos Verdes Surfing Club was
formed.”<a href="#_ftn16" name="_ftnref16" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn16;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[16]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Johnny Kerwin, who had started Doc Ball off on surfing, got
the Hermosa Beach Surfing Club going “a little after we formed,” Doc clarified.
“… After that was Hermosa and then Manhattan and
then Santa Monica.
From there on it went up the coast and kept going after that.”<a href="#_ftn17" name="_ftnref17" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn17;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[17]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Were there differences between the clubs? “Not especially,
as far as I know,” Doc said. “They all had their little banquets here and there
and times of celebration; same things we did, too, in our Palos Verdes [club].”<a href="#_ftn18" name="_ftnref18" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn18;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[18]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Doc was being typically modest in his comparison of the PVSC
to other surf clubs. The fact was that the Palos Verdes Surfing Club was more
sophisticated and organized than any of the other clubs – virtually from
inception. It’s organization would be impressive even compared to today’s standards.
Importantly, Doc’s photography played a large part in establishing the PVSC as
the dominant surf club of the 1930s.<a href="#_ftn19" name="_ftnref19" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn19;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[19]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677338">Hollows & Solids</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">“In your article on Doc Ball,” E.J. corrected me about a
previous biographical sketch I’d written on surfing’s first dedicated surf
photographer, “you start out with all of us guys on planks [solid wood boards].
That wasn’t true. When I started surfing [1935], everybody – without exception,
including Doc Ball – were riding paddleboards because there was no way to buy
solid boards – you know – in that time. Pacific System Homes hadn’t gone into
operation. We all rode paddleboards that we, ourselves, had made [from designs
originated by Tom Blake].</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Then, I think I was maybe <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">the</i> first guy – after a year or so riding paddleboards – to go to
Pacific System Homes and buy a square tail balsa/redwood… It was 11-foot and it
cost $21 dollars for this big, shaped and varnished board.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Anyway, I got that [board] and I got into the Cove,
finally, and I couldn’t ride it! I didn’t know how to ride it! And Tulie Clark…
Well, Tulie had had a little experience. So, he took it out and rode it for a
week or two until I watched him and kinda got on to how to ride a solid board
and then I took over from there.”<a href="#_ftn20" name="_ftnref20" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn20;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[20]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“But, when we started down there [at Palos Verdes Cove] –
without exception – Adie Bayer, Hornbeck, all those guys rode hollow
paddleboards, not planks. The initial push, there at the Cove, was
paddleboards.”<a href="#_ftn21" name="_ftnref21" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn21;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[21]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“In fact, the few guys that would come down from Santa Monica and Long
Beach all rode paddleboards. One exception was Pete
Peterson. He was riding a solid board in those days, but… we didn’t see a whole
lot of him. He’d only come down once in a while.”<a href="#_ftn22" name="_ftnref22" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn22;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[22]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, any way,” E. J. continued, “then when I got my solid
and the guys all tried it out, why, then somebody else got a solid and then
somebody else. Finally, only about Adie Bayer and Cliff Tucker were the only
guys still riding hollow boards. And they stayed with hollow boards.”<a href="#_ftn23" name="_ftnref23" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn23;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[23]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Delbert “Bud” Higgins, a Huntington Beach lifeguard of those times,
recalled of the redwood boards that the “redwoods were really too heavy, about
125 pounds, plus another 10 pounds or so when they got wet.” Yet, Higgins, who
was the first man to ride through the pilings of the Huntington Beach Pier while
standing on his head, swore by the old boards, saying they were, “so big and
stable [that] you could do almost anything.”<a href="#_ftn24" name="_ftnref24" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn24;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[24]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I remember one fella,” recalled Bud, “who used to bring a
little folding camp stool and a parasol along with him when he’d paddle out.
He’d catch a good wave, unfold the seat, then sit down and enjoy the ride in
the shade.”<a href="#_ftn25" name="_ftnref25" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn25;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[25]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">By the early 1930’s, hollowboard innovator Tom Blake helped
reduce the average weight of a surfboard from between 125 to 150 pounds down to
a lighter 75 to 100 pounds. Steering and stability were a problem, though, as
the boards tended to “slide tail “ or “slide ass.”</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Some of us used the Hawaiian word ‘huli’ to describe this
unfortunate phenomenon,” E.J. remembered. “Roughly translated as ‘turn back’ or
‘turn around.’”<a href="#_ftn26" name="_ftnref26" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn26;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[26]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Except for simple angle turns — accomplished either by dragging one’s foot
“Hawaiian style” off a board’s inside rail, or by stepping back and
tilt-dancing the board around and out of its old course and into a new one —
the hollow boards were still awkward and cumbersome.<a href="#_ftn27" name="_ftnref27" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn27;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[27]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Tom Blake was the one who came up with the solution to this
problem, too. Although it would take a decade to be completely embraced, keels
on surfboards eventually were universally accepted. The fixed fin or skeg was
invented by Blake in 1935 in an effort to solve the problem of the hollow
board’s tendency to “slide ass.”<a href="#_ftn28" name="_ftnref28" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn28;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[28]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
This innovation allowed surfers to track and pivot more freely and gave the
board more lateral stability. As a result, terms like “dead ahead,” “slide
ass,” “all together now, turn,” and “straight off, Adolph,” began to be heard
less and less.<a href="#_ftn29" name="_ftnref29" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn29;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[29]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Cliff Tucker recalled the 1930’s surfing days as a time,
“when a man could still be arrested at Santa Monica Beach
for not wearing a top.” As for the contests, they were serious business. “If
you were in a contest situation and a guy took off in front of you, it was your
obligation to show no decency. You either went right through him or otherwise
mowed him down.”<a href="#_ftn30" name="_ftnref30" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn30;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[30]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Cliff Tucker was a Palos Verdes Surfing Club member who
surfed with Preston Peterson early on. Both 6<sup>th</sup> grade classmates
“would ditch school to go surfing” near the old Crystal Pier Bathhouse at Santa Monica Beach. The Peterson family owned the
bathhouse at that time. “For years,” Tucker said, “surfing was the biggest
thing in my life. I remember thinking that if I couldn’t ride a wave again, I
couldn’t live. I really thought that there was nothing else in the world that
I’d rather do.”<a href="#_ftn31" name="_ftnref31" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn31;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[31]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Well, of course,” E.J. Oshier acknowledged, “Pete Peterson…
and Lorrin Harrison – Whitey,” were the top Mainland surfers of the day. “…
they started 3 or 4 years before us guys. So, they were – you know – on the top
of the heap; like Duke Kahanamoku would be in the Islands.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, anyway, those were the two guys I looked up to. Boy, there
were lotsa guys that I didn’t particularly look up to,” E.J.admitted, “because
they were all contemporary with me and about the same stage of surfing ability.
So, there wasn’t a question of looking up, it was a question of their being
great guys and being good friends with them all, but not particularly looking
up.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Pete was the best there ever was. He had such incredible
timing and skill of judging waves an’ all. He was just incredible.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn32" name="_ftnref32" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn32;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[32]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">Between World War I and World War II, surfing really got
going in California — especially Southern California. Compared to
the rest of the United States mainland,
the West Coast provided the best waves and a sustainable temperature. With the
popularity of the automobile, surfers drove further and further out in search
of waves. From the start, they tended to be individualistic, non-conformist and
in great physical shape. Long days were spent at the beach free surfing and
also in friendly competition. </p>
<p class="alsformat">It was in 1934, that “the first hollow board came out with a
light frame work covered with water proof canvas made by Jim Bailey, about 10’
long. Jim said it was too slow and sluggish. A dream gone bad. Not so, at least
six surfers made hollow 12’ plywood paddle boards and Jim rode on his new
paddle board with his dog on the nose.”<a href="#_ftn33" name="_ftnref33" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn33;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[33]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Tom Blake’s fin,” made its appearance along the beaches
close to Los Angeles
also in 1934 — the year of its invention. Chuck A Luck first saw it, “on the
tail of a paddle board. Made of spruce, it was about 1” thick X 4” high X 6”
long and started a whole new way to hold a board from slipping. It also made
you lean instead of using your feet to turn.”<a href="#_ftn34" name="_ftnref34" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn34;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[34]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677339"></a><a name="_Toc448965743"></a><a name="_Toc448965015"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc448965743;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677339;">San Onofre</span></span></a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">Due to George Freeth’s exhibitions at Redondo Beach and Duke
Kahanamoku’s occasional visits to Santa Monica and Corona del Mar, Mainland
surfing’s gestation began in these two areas of Southern California. After
Freeth’s death in 1919, surfing activity shifted from Redondo further south to
Corona del Mar. Before the breakwater was put in and the jetty taken out,
Corona del Mar was considered to be “the surfing spot.”<a href="#_ftn35" name="_ftnref35" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn35;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[35]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">At a time when the entire Mainland surfing population
numbered less than 50 guys and a few girls, it was San Diego surfer Bob Sides that lead the
first charge to San Onofre, the surf spot that would become Mainland’s first
true surfing capitol. Sides’ discovery of San Onofre was logical, according to
Whitey Harrison, as “Sides traveled between San Diego and up here frequently… and he
said, ‘Hey Whitey, there’s this neat spot down south where the waves break way
out.”<a href="#_ftn36" name="_ftnref36" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn36;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[36]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Bob Sides declared of Corona del Mar, in 1933: “They’re
wrecking this place.”<a href="#_ftn37" name="_ftnref37" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn37;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[37]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
“So,” said Whitey of his first trip to San O, “we loaded up a whole bunch of
people into touring cars… and we went down there and tried it out.” In addition
to Sides and Whitey, the crew included George “Nelly Bly” Brignell, Ned
Leutzinger, Joe Parsons, Lucien Knight, Winfred Harrison, Ethel Harrison,
George Minor, Hubert Howe, Glen Bishop and Orly Minor.<a href="#_ftn38" name="_ftnref38" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn38;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[38]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“We went clear down to where the atomic plant is now and
surfed that spot,” continued Whitey. “Then we came back up the beach and tried
it right where the main shack is now. That’s where we found it was always
steadiest. The surf was always pretty good… We weren’t the first people to go
down there, people had been going fishing down there for years and stayin’ all
night. The ranchers [who owned the land] didn’t seem to mind. In fact, the
first time we went there, they were making a Hollywood
movie. They had built this big palm thatch house right on the beach. We slept
in it the first night we stayed there. This was about 1933/34. By 1935, Corona
del Mar was over with, and San Onofre was our main spot.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn39" name="_ftnref39" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn39;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[39]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">The shack was still there a year or so later when Charles
“Chuck A Luck” Ehlers and friends surf safaried down San O way. The 1935 holiday
road trip itinerary included the Long Beach Flood Control, Huntington Flats,
Corona del Mar, Dana Point<span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;">, San
Clemente and San Onofre</span> — in that order.</p>
<p class="alsformat">It was the era of the big bands and surfers of the day were
into big band music, big time “Heard of a good band playing Green Gardens
in San Clemente<span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;">,” recalled Ehlers</span>. “We danced every
number Benny Goodman could throw at us. Lots of single girls, so we slept
overnight on the beach<span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;"> [at San Clemente]</span>. On
to San Onofre’s big 10’ to 12’ swells and waves. Met several surfers and slept
with their gang under an open palm leaf roof held up by railroad ties.”<a href="#_ftn40" name="_ftnref40" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn40;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[40]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Some sources say the sandy beach below sheer sandstone
cliffs was named after the Egyptian Saint Onuphrius.<a href="#_ftn41" name="_ftnref41" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn41;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[41]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
What exactly the name San Onofre means is a subject of some debate. It appears
in the papers of the Santa Margarita Land Grant of 1836 and 1841. It is also in
the official records of the Mission San Juan Capistrano, dating back to 1828.
Besides the Onuphrius supposition, it has been suggested that the name is a
Spanish adaptation of a local native American place name. Whatever its origin,
the San Clemente Public Library documents the Sante Fe railroad as erecting the
first San Onofre sign in the late 1880s.<a href="#_ftn42" name="_ftnref42" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn42;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[42]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677340">“Gay Ole Times”</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">“It was a much wilder group down there,”E.J. Oshier said of
the group that got going at San Onofre in the mid-1930’s. “These guys were
wonderful guys. Barney Wilkes, Doakes, Laholio, Nellie Blye, Joe Bush… a whole
bunch of guys down there. They would tend to surf all morning and then, in the
afternoon, there was a lot of pretty heavy drinking – wine; cheap wine. Party
type, you know; hula dancers, singing and all that stuff. A lot of those guys
[in the PVSC], like Hoppy [Swarts], didn’t care for that. So, they would come
down once in a while—to Onofre—in the Summer, but I was there <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">every</i> weekend. Every weekend.”<a href="#_ftn43" name="_ftnref43" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn43;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[43]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“They were ‘straighter,’” E.J. said of his Palos Verdes
comrades, and they were also more serious. “A little of each, I’d say. They
just didn’t care for – you know—like Barney Wilkes. Some of those guys would
get real falling-down drunk. I wouldn’t go that far, but I’d get pretty loaded,
myself, in the course of an evening. And it would get wild and loud. Nobody got
hurt or anything. It was just a noisy, friendly, happy party time. Doc Ball and
those guys just didn’t care for that. That’s their privilege, you know. They
didn’t like it; they didn’t like it.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn44" name="_ftnref44" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn44;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[44]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">Some of the early San Onofre regulars included Lorrin
Harrison, E. J., Barney Wilkes (who became a dentist and good friend of Don
James), Dexter Woods, Vincent Lindberg (“‘Klotz’ we called him”), Charles
Butler (Doakes), Laholio (Hawaiian for horse’s balls) Carol Bertolet, Benny
Merrill, Frenchy Jahan, Dutchy Lenkeit, Joe Parsons (“We called him ‘Joe
Bush’), Davy Tompkins (Keyhole), Nellie Blye (Nell for Brignell. “George
Brignell. He was a guy whose eyes were so bad—like Hoppy’s—when we went
surfing, he had to tie glasses with string around his head, so he could see the
waves [laughs]. He was something else).<a href="#_ftn45" name="_ftnref45" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn45;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[45]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The San Onofre group,” E.J. continued, “as I said – they
were pretty high livers and party people, but they really made no effort at all
to have a club. They liked it just free as a breeze and no commitments.
Contrary to the PVSC [which was] very formal and had definite meeting nights
and rituals… ‘Nofre guys: all they cared about is you dive for a few abs –
abalone and lobster – you get a jug of wine, surf all morning and then play
guitars. And, I love that life, myself!”<a href="#_ftn46" name="_ftnref46" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn46;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[46]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Who were the women around at that time? “Whoever we could
get!” E. J. answered with a laugh. “I had several gals. Their parents were – I
guess you could say – liberal; would let their daughters leave with me Saturday
and come back Sunday night. It was kind of nice to have around the sleeping bag,
you know, Saturday nights…”<a href="#_ftn47" name="_ftnref47" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn47;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[47]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The gals got quite a little group of their own. They call
themselves – in fact, they got sweatshirts with this on the back – the San
Onofre Surfing Wahines… and they had quite a little fun group. They’d go with
the surfers. They weren’t really ‘groupies’ cuz they were nice girls. Maybe a
little hanky panky, [but] not groupies in the sense that the rock and roll
people have them.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“They would go out [and surf], but they were pretty much <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">beach</i> wahines. A couple of them could
get out on a board and get little waves. You know, those big boards, heavy
boards – it just wasn’t too easy for a gal to get to the water, let alone
paddle out.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“There wasn’t a lot of tandem – except Pete Peterson and
Lorrin used to do some. None of us guys did. It took too much strength and it
took too much time out of our own surfing, so we didn’t do too much tandem
stuff. It just wasn’t worth it. The girls would sit on the beach.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn48" name="_ftnref48" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn48;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[48]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">By the later 1930s, San Onofre was unquestionably “the
meeting place for surfers up and down the California
coast — from Tijuana Sloughs to Steamers
Lane in Santa
Cruz,” wrote Dorian Paskowitz, an early attendee.
“Friday and Saturday nights were gay ‘ole times, with Hawaiian guitar, Tahitian
dances and no small amount of boozing. But come Sunday morning, it was serious
surfing for the true beach rats — like us guys from Mission Beach.
The Second World War, the take over by the Marine Corps and not being able to
sleep on the beach anymore changed much of that. What hasn’t changed is
surfing. San Onofre to this day is one of the most consistent surf spots in the
United States.”<a href="#_ftn49" name="_ftnref49" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn49;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[49]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">It was, E.J. Oshier agreed, a “… procession of parties and
surfing.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn50" name="_ftnref50" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn50;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[50]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">The “golden years” at San Onofre are generally considered by
‘Nofre veterans to have been between 1936 and 1943,<a href="#_ftn51" name="_ftnref51" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn51;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[51]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
when the area was owned by Rancho Santa Margarita and leased as a fishing camp.
“Back then it was part of Rancho Santa Margarita,” a later Nofre regular Stan
King recalled, “and a guy named Frank at the Texaco station charged us a
quarter to get in. We usually snuck in, and he’d swipe our clothes while we
were out surfing and hold them until we paid the two bits.”<a href="#_ftn52" name="_ftnref52" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn52;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[52]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Believe me,” emphasized E.J. Oshier, “Back before the war,
at the Cove and at San Onofre, the Aloha Spirit was very prevalent. Everybody
knew everybody. Your friends were out in the water with ya! There weren’t that
many other people. And, so everybody got along, rode their waves and went in
and got a jug of wine or a guitar or ukelele and that was a good day.”<a href="#_ftn53" name="_ftnref53" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn53;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[53]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Now, again, the Palos Verdes group were entirely
different,” from the San O group, E.J. emphasized. “We [in the PVSC] used to
have an annual dance, a ‘Hula Luau’ we called it… The San Onofre group would
never do anything like that cuz they didn’t want to act as a group. They just
wanted – they were all independent spirits and they didn’t want any part of an
association type thing. Yet, they got along as well as the more formal PVSC
guys. It was just a different approach.”<a href="#_ftn54" name="_ftnref54" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn54;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[54]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Well, you know, I’m the kind of guy – if I like somebody, I
can make them like me pretty well. And I really, really liked the PVSC guys…
But, also, I could switch over to that crazy ‘Nofre bunch which were pretty
goofy, you know. There were a lot of wild things [that went on].”<a href="#_ftn55" name="_ftnref55" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn55;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[55]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I was really unique – in a true sense – being a pivot,”
E.J. appreciated. “In the Winter, I’d be exclusively with the PVSC guys and
have a wonderful time and love ‘em all. Then, when Summer came, I was down
‘Nofre and I was buddies with everybody down there and everybody loved me and I
loved them. But, none of the other guys seemed to switch back – you know, have
that ability to be right at home with both groups. That really was, I think,
unusual… I got the best of both worlds.”<a href="#_ftn56" name="_ftnref56" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn56;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[56]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677341"></a><a name="_Toc448965757"></a><a name="_Toc448965029"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc448965757;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677341;">San O and The Cove, Pre-W</span></span></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677341;">WII</span></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">San Onofre continued as “Surfers’ Mecca,”
documented in a number of pages in Doc Ball’s book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">California</i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Surfriders, 1946</i>. He wrote and took
pictures of an epic contest day there, in 1940: “The competition was keen, the
spills were frequent, and the spectators roasted on the beach. The boys come
from within a hundred and fifty mile radius to participate in this activity.”<a href="#_ftn57" name="_ftnref57" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn57;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[57]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Winners of the 1940 trophies included: Eyestone, McGrew, [Cliff] Tucker (first
place), [Johnny] Gates and [Hoppy] Swarts. In Doc’s book, there’s a famous shot
of 17 riders on a wave, “h—bent for a trophy. The boards fly and they pile up
in droves but somehow out of the mess comes the new champ.”<a href="#_ftn58" name="_ftnref58" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn58;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[58]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">In covering the San O event Doc has a classic overhead shot
of Gard Chapin blastin’ into the beach in his roadster. “Gard Chapin arrives
late. Down the dirt road at 60 per, spots parking space, cramps wheels and
slides in.”<a href="#_ftn59" name="_ftnref59" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn59;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[59]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">In “‘Nofre Days,” Doc has a photo showing “Pete Peterson and
Bob Sides, two strictly ‘Kamaaina ‘ boys, having some pre-contest fun. Both of
them could tell some hair-raising tales of Corona del Mar Days.”<a href="#_ftn60" name="_ftnref60" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn60;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[60]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">In another photo of the contest held right before the
outbreak of war, summer 1941, “Pete Peterson wins the 1941 ‘Nofre sweepstakes.
He is seen here as the proud possessor of the perpetual cup. Left to right:
McBride, Lindberg, [Don] Okey, [Dorian] Pascowitz, [Jim] Bailey, [Whitey]
Harrison, [Tom] Blake, [Pete] Peterson, VanBlom, [Rusty] Williams.”<a href="#_ftn61" name="_ftnref61" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn61;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[61]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Photographs showed the beach scene. “A couple of guitars and
a ‘uke’ will always draw a crowd,”<a href="#_ftn62" name="_ftnref62" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn62;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[62]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
wrote Doc, also including a photo of the ‘Nofre crew still sleeping. “Six A.M.
of a ‘flat’ day and everybody still in the bag. Had the surf been humping they
probably would have stayed up all night.”<a href="#_ftn63" name="_ftnref63" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn63;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[63]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">According to Doc, tandem riding was more a common sight at
San O than at other beaches. In “Tandem Rides Are Popular With the Boys,” Doc
showed a picture of “Benny Merrill and wahini slicing along neat as anything.
Most of the female sex, however, prefer to sit on the beach.”<a href="#_ftn64" name="_ftnref64" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn64;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[64]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“A lot of familiar faces and a goodly stand of timber,”
continued Doc, noting surfers: Bud Andreason, Benny Merrill and wahini, Whitey Harrison & his outrigger; E.J., Mary Ann Hawkins, Ann
Kresge and Gard Chapin.<a href="#_ftn65" name="_ftnref65" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn65;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[65]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">In “Soup And Sneakers, “ Doc showed: “This big sneaker came
in with a frightful blast and nipped off the unbeliever who had just inquired
‘whatinell you doing way out there?’“<a href="#_ftn66" name="_ftnref66" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn66;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[66]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Two Kamaainas Take Off” shows “‘Frenchy’ Jahan and ‘Nellie
Bly’ Brignell whip out on a ‘screaming left.’ Brignell’s eyesight demands that
he wear glasses even when surfing. He fastens them on with a piece of inner
tube but on occasions they get lost and he has to come in without them. This
accounts no doubt for some of the daredevil rides this guy has gotten away
with. He simply could not see the size of the monster he was choosing to ride.”<a href="#_ftn67" name="_ftnref67" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn67;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[67]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Contrasting Doc’s camera and perspective on San Onofre was
his look at the Palos Verdes scene the same year: “Fun at the Cove,” identifies
Fenton and “Dixie” Scholes riding tandem,
January 14, 1940 at Palos Verdes Cove. Also there in those days were “Tulie”
Clark, [Gene] Hornbeck, Johnny Dale, Harry Dunnigan and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bud Morrissey’s wife Mary Ann [formerly
Hawkins].<a href="#_ftn68" name="_ftnref68" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn68;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[68]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Jam-Up,” is a classic Palos Verdes photo of Tom Blake, Jim
Bailey, Johnny Gates and Gard Chapin.<a href="#_ftn69" name="_ftnref69" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn69;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[69]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The Mighty Ski Jump Roars in — December 22, 1940 “ shows
“Al Holland, Oshier, Grannis and Bayer riding the 30-foot grinders that arrive
here on an average of twice a year and rattle windows over a mile inland with
their heavy concussion. This picture published in an Australian magazine, made
its appearance in far away Noumea,
New Caledonia. Was discovered
there by a very surprised Doc Ball... Adie Bayer bites off more than he can
handle and his 14-foot board can be seen sticking up in the crest of this colossal
sea. The Doc and his camera had a bad few seconds also!”<a href="#_ftn70" name="_ftnref70" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn70;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[70]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“One thing that I remember that was really outstanding,”
E.J. Oshier recalled of notable surf spots of the 1930s, “and we have pictures
to prove it in Doc Ball’s book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">California
Surfriders,</i> is the day we all discovered – pretty much, to my knowledge,
the first I’d ever done it – to go out and ride – the Ski Jump. That’s the
north end of Palos Verdes Cove.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Well, it’s like Mavericks. You go months and months and
never see a sign of a wave, but on a really big winter storm, you couldn’t ride
the middle or main part of the cove, where you normally did, because it was
just too big. You couldn’t get out. But, we paddled out into… Ski Jump. Boy,
I’d never been in waves like that before! It was sort of a rainy, wintery,
overcast kind of day, but we were all so excited about these giant waves.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn71" name="_ftnref71" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn71;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[71]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">In a humorous shot, Doc featured “Jim Bailey and His Surfing
Cocker ‘Rusty’ — Frequent visitors to the cove are these two, when the waves
are running high. So captured by this picture was Joe Chastek, owner of the Los
Angeles night club ‘Zamboanga,’ that he immediately procured a copy and had a 3
by 5-feet enlargement made for the adornment of his bar.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Note water-sled shaped board.<a href="#_ftn72" name="_ftnref72" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn72;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[72]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">How often did the Palos Verdes crew surf?</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Just on weekends,” answered E.J. Oshier. “We all were
either working or going to school and we’d just get down there on Saturdays –
first thing Saturday morning. Way back then, you could just bring a sleeping
bag, if you wanted to, and sleep on the cliff there, just above the Cove,
overnight, and bring something to eat. Get up early Sunday morning and surf.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn73" name="_ftnref73" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn73;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[73]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Remember,” E.J. continued, “Palos Verdes takes a winter
swell; takes a north swell. During the Summer and a lot of the Fall [and Spring]
there was no north swell… No particular surf at the Cove. That’s how we’d go
down to Corona del Mar or around the Point to Flood Control, in Long Beach, or down all
the way to San Onofre. Because, they caught the south swell.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn74" name="_ftnref74" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn74;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[74]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">So, most of the Southern California surfers would shift
according to the seasons, much in the same way we do today. “I was especially
that way,” E.J. said, “because some of the Palos Verdes guys that I knew I
always thought they were a little ‘square.’ But, guys like Granny and Hoppy and
Doc Ball – it was a little too lively a social life for them at ‘Nofre.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn75" name="_ftnref75" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn75;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[75]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677342"></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677342;">Santa Cruz</span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677342;">, Pre-WWII</span></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">The influence of the PVSC went far beyond Palos Verdes.
“When the surf was flat there in Southern
Cal,” Doc said of the surf safaris club members, “we’d
make these trips out around, up the coast and down. One of them went up to Santa Cruz. They’d not
seen that activity (surfing) up there [before]! Our guys were the ones who
initiated it in Santa Cruz.”<a href="#_ftn76" name="_ftnref76" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn76;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[76]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">While Doc was mistaken about that, the infusion of PVSC
energy into the Santa Cruz
scene energizes the surfing scene there.</p>
<p class="alsformat">Of the PVSC crew, it was E.J. Oshier who was the main guy involved
in stoking the surfing fires in Santa
Cruz.<a href="#_ftn77" name="_ftnref77" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn77;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[77]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
He had left Los Angeles
when he joined the National Guard, circa 1938-39. “Some of the kids there –
they were high school kids. They all had big, long paddleboards. They were
doing surfing on their own.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“When I arrived there – there was a guy named Duke Horan… He
was a good surfer. He was from Venice.
He was going to San Jose State and he and I met on the beach at Santa Cruz one summer day.
We got to talking, you know, [about] how we missed the surf down below [in Southern California]. We’d
look at these kids on paddleboards and it didn’t look too good. We hadn’t seen
any really good surf at Steamer
Lane and Cowell’s.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Then, we finally saw some. Why, we got busy [then]! I built
a paddleboard and he got hold of an old squaretail and we started surfing with
the kids. But, we were infinitely better surfers than all the other kids. They
were nice kids. We got along fine with them, but they just weren’t polished or
quick. Their surfing was: just pick the wave up, stand up and go into the
beach. There was no particular cutting right or left or anything.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, anyway, the Duke and I – what we did to Santa Cruz was sort of
grab it by its boot straps and pull it up into present surfing styles. You
know, riding solid boards, turning with our feet – all the things the kids
weren’t doing. We got along fine with the locals. We were sort of ‘gooners’
because we were so much better than anyone else around there. So, that was
great! We loved it!”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn78" name="_ftnref78" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn78;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[78]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“1939 and 1940 was my two years surfing Santa Cruz <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">a lot</i>. I was living in Oakland,
working in Oakland, and as soon as I got off
work Friday night, I’d stow my sleeping bag and board in the car and head for Santa Cruz. We had a… barn
down there, just above Steamer
Lane, that one of the high school kid surfer’s
mother owned. It was a falling-down thing, but we could sleep in it, you know.
We used to be able to throw our sleeping bags down there and sleep there. You
know, have something over our heads and a little privacy.”<a href="#_ftn79" name="_ftnref79" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn79;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[79]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">This building is not to be confused with the building the
surf club had. The surf club building was right on the beach at the base of the
pier. Its picture is in Doc Ball’s book and shows E. J., Jeep, Duke Horan and
Art Beard. “Right there by the horseshoe course. They had a second one, in a
different location, but that was after I’d gone. The barn was up on the cliff,
about a block inland from the current surfing museum [lighthouse]. Buster’s
mother owned it...”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn80" name="_ftnref80" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn80;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[80]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">Of the Santa Cruz
kids, E.J. said, Harry Mayo and Buster Stewart were the best surfers. “Buster…
he was probably the best surfer of the kids. He had a little more control of
the board and a little more ability. But, Harry Mayo and a lot of those other
guys, they were nice kids, but they really never got their hooks into real
surfing. Don’t quote me on that, cuz I wouldn’t want to hurt Harry’s feelings.
But, I’m sure he would admit that it’s true.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn81" name="_ftnref81" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn81;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[81]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">For E.J., it was every weekend to Santa Cruz during 1939-40. “Winter, Summer.
And, boy, that surfing in the winter with no wetsuit and no leash was a little
rough. But, hell, I was young and big and strong. I could do that.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn82" name="_ftnref82" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn82;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[82]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“In 1940, going into ’41,” E.J. explained, “it more and more
looked like there’d be a war.” War was already underway in Europe and in Asia. “There was a couple of guys from Oakland that had started surfing, that I
could go down with. They never got very good, but they were very good friends
of mine. They decided they were going to enlist in the National Guard. At that
time, you serve a year in the National Guard and you could get out and you’d
served your time, right? Except it wasn’t right (laughs). I thought, that’s a
good idea. I’ll get in with one night a week with the National Guard. So, I did
that and everything was going fine until December 7, 1941 [the Japanese bombing
of Pearl Harbor].</p>
<p class="alsformat">“That day… was a beautiful day at Santa Cruz. I was out at the Rivermouth, where
the San Lorenzo River empties out. There’s pictures of
me in Doc Ball’s book taken at the Rivermouth.”<a href="#_ftn83" name="_ftnref83" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn83;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[83]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Back in those days, the Rivermouth could get really good.
“Oh, it was phenomenal!” praised E.J. “It was absolutely machine waves. In the
winter, a big sand bar would build up off the San Lorenzo River, you know, sort
of a narrow triangle and the waves would hit the peak of that triangle, out
there at a good distance offshore and start to build. The shoulders would just
taper off magnificently, like they were right out of a machine. There’d usually
be a set of 3 or 4 waves, then a lull. You absolutely couldn’t go wrong.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“I was out there having a wonderful time. I surfed a few
hours and one wave I took close to the point. Some guy ran over and say, ‘Hey!
You better get out of there and get back to your car and go back to San Louie
Obispo –” where the National Guard armory was – “The Japs just bombed Pearl Harbor! Everybody gotta get back to their camps!’
Well, there went my ‘year.’ It ended-up five years in the army instead of one
year [in the National Guard],” E. J. laughed about it. “I was surfing the day
they bombed Pearl Harbor.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn84" name="_ftnref84" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn84;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[84]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">That must have been a vivid memory, I acknowledged.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Well, it <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">is</i>. It
was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">such</i> a good day. The sun was out,
it was warm, and the waves were beautiful. And that was the last time I surfed Santa Cruz. Never had an
opportunity to surf it, again. But, I had a lot of good surf there [during
those two years].”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn85" name="_ftnref85" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn85;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[85]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">From the National Guard, E. J. went to the Army and then to
the Air Force, “but never went overseas,” he noted, explaining: “I don’t have a
lot to say about my war experiences, because I really was never in a battle or
anything.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn86" name="_ftnref86" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn86;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[86]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">E.J. was an MP, a Military Policeman, in the infantry on the
Mainland during WWII.</p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677343">Post War ‘Nofre</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">After the Corona del Mar breakwater was put in, and even
though there was much surf activity at Palos Verdes Cove, San Onofre became Southern California’s surf center prior to World War II.
The culture that bloomed there between the mid-1930s and beginning 1940s was
blown away when the war broke out and the military took over the area. What Doc
Ball had referred to as “‘Nofre Days,” in his picture book <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">California</i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Surfriders 1946</i>, fortunately returned
following the war’s end, even though many of its protagonists did not. Even so,
the golden days at San Onofre never fully got going again, in part due to the
continued military presence in the area. Nevertheless, a peaceful coexistence
reigned between surfers and the Marine Corps<span style="display: none; mso-hide: all;"> in the post-war period</span>,<a href="#_ftn87" name="_ftnref87" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn87;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[87]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
when events later on at Malibu
would shift surfing’s focal point there.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“I got a medical discharge out of the Army,” E. J. Oshier
said. “I was pretty sick for a long time. So, my wife and I – I was married by
then – we moved to Laguna Beach
because I couldn’t hold a job because of my illness. I figured I might as well
be where I was most happy. I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">could</i>
skin dive for abalone and lobster. I had enough strength for that, although I
didn’t have enough strength to surf.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, anyway… A couple of guys didn’t come back from the
war,” E. J. understated. “I never went back to Palos Verdes… The same guys were
never there, anymore. The enticement of the camaraderie was gone, there. But,
San Onofre was booming like crazy… When I felt well enough, I’d go down, although
I really couldn’t [re-] start surfing, at that time, because I didn’t have
enough strength for it… We still had the big, heavy planks – you know – then…”<a href="#_ftn88" name="_ftnref88" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn88;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[88]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“After I got out of the Army,” E.J. continued of 1946, “for
about 14 years, I was quite ill and it was a problem that couldn’t be solved,
supposedly. So, I was in and out of the veteran’s hospital a lot of the time.
I’d be in there, maybe, 3 weeks, maybe a couple of months. They’d pump me up
and get me back to where I could be outdoors and then, after a month or two,
things would collapse. It was just a bad scene. I was losing a lot of blood and
I just didn’t have any strength… That’s why, with the heavy boards, I didn’t do
much surfing. But, I <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">was</i> able to skin
dive, which [at least] got me in the ocean. So, I was getting abalone and
lobster, but I just wasn’t well.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“I finally had a major surgical [operation] at the Long
Beach Veteran’s Hospital and they pretty well corrected my problem so that I
got enough strength back to where I got back deep and heavy into surfing
again.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn89" name="_ftnref89" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn89;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[89]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677344">The San Onofre Surfing Club</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">About 1951, the Marines became concerned over the number of
people using the beach within their jurisdiction. Ideally, they wanted less
than 800 people on the beach at a time. As for surfers, all they wanted was
“access to the beach,” explained Bill Vetter, an early member of the San Onofre
Surfing Club. It was the San Onofre Surfing Club—with influential San Onofre
surfers Dr. Barney Wilkes, Al Dowden, and Andre “Frenchy” Jahan -- that lead
the way.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Little Frenchy Jahan – Andre Jahan – he was a guy that went
into the Marine Corps and wrote up the original papers to get the San Onofre
Surfing Club accepted to where we could run the San Onofre beach,” E.J.
remembered. “When the war ended and we all started going back to ‘Nofre, the
Marine Corps had that all and owned it. They gave us a real bad time about
surfing there, especially Trestle. They’d come down with jeeps and guns and
arrest people and take them into the base and confiscate their boards. It was
an unhappy situation!”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn90" name="_ftnref90" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn90;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[90]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“A lot of us guys – you know, Barney was a dentist and
little Frenchy was a very successful stock broker – very devoted surfers, all
of them. So, they got the idea: ‘Well, rather than fight the Marine Corps
forever, let’s see if we can’t get a date with a general and see if we can’t
put together a plan whereby we form a San Onofre Surfing Club and we take
responsibility for the proper decorum and cleanliness and all of the San Onofre
beach, there, in return for them letting us do without getting hassled.’”<a href="#_ftn91" name="_ftnref91" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn91;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[91]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, Barney Wilkes and Andre had a couple of meetings with a
general and he saw it our way. And so they set up a procedure whereby we would,
you know, be responsible for keeping the beach clean… We couldn’t spend the nights,
anymore. That was too bad. The Marines wouldn’t go for that. So, we had to be
out by ten o’clock at night, which… is alright.”<a href="#_ftn92" name="_ftnref92" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn92;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[92]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">On April 24, 1952, the San Onofre Surfing Club held its
first meeting at Old Man’s. “Barney Wilkes came down to the beach,” recalled
Bill Vetter, “and was communicating with the Marine Corps, because they
couldn’t keep us out. He started the roster. I signed up less than 10<sup>th</sup>.”
The bylaws for the San Onofre Surfing Club ensured beach access, but mandated
maintenance and rules of conduct. “Once the club was established,” said Vetter,
“we had a lease with the Marine Corps for a dollar a year — a token thing.”<a href="#_ftn93" name="_ftnref93" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn93;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[93]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“We were all still on solids at ‘Nofre, you know, E.J.
retold. “There were rumors of this guy Simmons an’ all, but none of our guys
had seen him… We all kind of pooh-pooh’d him. We heard he was kind of a nut and
we just couldn’t care less. But then, once the foam [boards came out, we got
into them quick.]… We were pretty conservative. We didn’t like to change a lot…
Of course [when the foamies came out], we all realized how good the lighter
board was and how much better surfing was with it – quicker turns and
everything. So, we got on board.”<a href="#_ftn94" name="_ftnref94" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn94;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[94]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">According to E.J., dominant at San Onofre during the 1950s
were: “Lorrin Harrison, Barney Wilkes [doing dentistry in San Clemente so he
could be near ‘Nofre], Benny Merrill [San Clemente Van & Storage, pre-war],
Opai [Tom Wert], Bud Morrissey – he was quite a guy. We were friends, but not
close friends. He was a little different. He could have been in the Palos
Verdes Surfing Club, but he just didn’t care to join. He was just a different
type of person, but a nice guy!</p>
<p class="alsformat">“He developed – right after the war – that parallel sides
solid board that enabled him to slide at an angle across soup, which none of
the rest of us guys could do on the big old boards. We just kind of marveled. A
lot of guys didn’t like Buddy. I liked him, but a lot of ‘em didn’t because he
was a little different – you might say ‘snooty’ in some respects [high brow,
better than thou]. His father had been a Hollywood
producer/director and had a lot of money and this kind of thing.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Anyway, Buddy Morrisey and Opai were very close chums and
they’d be together at ‘Nofre a lot. And we’d all be out surfing together. Let’s
see… Then there was a guy named Luton
(loo-ton)… He was there a lot. Nellie Blye was there… John Levy… Don Cram
started coming down. He’s the guy that got the Nobel Prize for chemistry...”<a href="#_ftn95" name="_ftnref95" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn95;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[95]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, anyway,” E.J. continued, “there’s Don, Doug Craig and a
lot of ‘em. Let’s see… There’s so many guys. Johnny Waters… And, oh! Peanuts
Larsen was a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">big</i> part of the scene,
for a lot of the ‘50s and ‘60s. Klotz was still there, off and on. Laholio
didn’t come back. Dexter didn’t come back.<a href="#_ftn96" name="_ftnref96" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn96;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[96]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Barney was there a lot. Tommy Gray was killed in the war. He didn’t come back.
Bruce Duncan, who was my guru on guitar. He pretty much taught me a lot of the
guitar stuff I know. He was down there…”<a href="#_ftn97" name="_ftnref97" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn97;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[97]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Duncan, added
E.J., was “A very bright guy, but like Barney, the booze finally killed him.”<a href="#_ftn98" name="_ftnref98" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn98;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[98]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Brant Goldsworthy surfed San O in the 1950s, E.J.
remembered,<a href="#_ftn99" name="_ftnref99" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn99;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[99]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
and “Gard Chapin was down there. Now, he was quite a guy. He was kind of an
abrasive kind of guy, but I got along fine with him pretty well. Once, we had a
little problem about boards running into boards out in the water…” Miki Dora’s
step-father, Chapin probably passed on the attitude. “Yeah, that’s a good point
to make,” E.J. agreed. “… That might very well have been. Gard was a bit
strange, but a good surfer. Miki Dora was just a little kid then. And then Phil
Edwards was coming up from down Oceanside
way. He was just a little high school kid – I was always very aware of the two
kids, but I paid no attention to them cuz they were just kids on the beach and,
you know, hadn’t established themselves as great surfers – which they
eventually did.”<a href="#_ftn100" name="_ftnref100" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn100;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[100]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Before the war, E.J. told of one prank they played on Gard,
“One time, Gard Chapin left the beach for some reason and went off to do
something. He had his usual 12-foot solid board. We got shovels and dug about a
10-foot hole, deep in the sand, and put his board in it with just the nose
sticking out, and filled it back up again. He didn’t like that, when he got
back! But, none of us knew who did it…”<a href="#_ftn101" name="_ftnref101" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn101;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[101]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Between 1952 and 1973, when the State of California
took over management of the San Onofre beach area, the San Onofre Surfing Club
was the glue that kept the scene together; all the while communicating with the
Marines as the interface shifted more to the State of California.</p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677345">A </a><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677345;">Family</span><span style="mso-bookmark: _Toc82677345;"> Beach</span></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">The lifestyle at San Onofre had begun with surfing and then
included beach partying and socializing. As the partiers grew older, they
brought their emerging families with them. At that post-World War II point
(mid-to-late 1940’s), San O evolved into a family beach. “It’s a big, happy
family down there,” E.J. declared. “… Everyone had a good time.”<a href="#_ftn102" name="_ftnref102" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn102;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[102]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
So, San Onofre evolved as a beach that combined surfing with raising families.
“It’s kind of been a family beach,” explained 2<sup>nd</sup>-generation San
Onofre surfer Craig Ephram in 1993. “There are literally four generations
surfing down there now.”</p>
<p class="alsformat">“... this beach is still a family beach,” concurred Bill
Vetter. “You come down here today and 99% of the people are just families —
it’s still basically like it always was.” “There are damn few days you can’t
feel good about walking around and talking to everyone,” confirmed Jim Gilloon,
another long-time San O’ local.<a href="#_ftn103" name="_ftnref103" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn103;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[103]</span></span></span></span></span></a>”</p>
<p class="alsformat">“We had our own mature group,” E.J. said, “to do our wine
drinking and guitar playing and surfing…”<a href="#_ftn104" name="_ftnref104" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn104;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[104]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
“The same guys who are here now,” recalls Mike Evans, the youngest member of
the group E.J. plays with today, “would be playing late into the evening [in
the sixties], while us kids romped through the sand in our pajamas.”<a href="#_ftn105" name="_ftnref105" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn105;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[105]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">Growing up at San Onofre “was all so innocent and pure,”
explains Don Craig. “It was a kid’s nirvana... I feel real lucky to have grown
up in that lifestyle.”<a href="#_ftn106" name="_ftnref106" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn106;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[106]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Doug Craig, Don’s father, who surfs San Onofre every day, agrees. “It’s a very
social thing. Total family.”</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Moms and Dads would let you off,” recalled Willie Wilson,
“and you would go up and down the beach and different parents would offer you
lunch. It was a neat deal.”</p>
<p class="alsformat">“It’s just a giant family,” declared Bill Vetter, one of San
Onofre Surfing Club’s elder statesmen, talking about San O’s tradition that
carries to present day.<a href="#_ftn107" name="_ftnref107" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn107;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[107]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Since the 1930’s, camaraderie has been the mainstay at Nofre, “even before the
San Onofre Surfing Club was founded,” wrote Andrew Cowell. “For this extended
family, communication is paramount, activism a must, stewardship of the land
and sea a responsibility, and fun and recreation the first order of each day.”<a href="#_ftn108" name="_ftnref108" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn108;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[108]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I was almost born here at San Onofre,” declared Bill
Vetter. “My dad was a surf fisherman. I’ve spent every summer down here, as
long as it was open. From 1931 on, I can remember getting up in the morning and
seeing half a dozen guys sitting out (in the line-up) at 6:00 in the morning.”<a href="#_ftn109" name="_ftnref109" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn109;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[109]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">The glue that has bonded San Onofre surfi culture has been
the “common bond of a love for the beach and surfing and the camaraderie of it
all,” declared Don Craig. “Guys like Pete Peterson and Mike Doyle, the numbers
are too many to enumerate. There’s just people from all walks of life... it’s
just a melting pot... There are no classes or differences. There are guys that
are millionaires and there are guys that have nothing and they surf together
for the love of surfing.”<a href="#_ftn110" name="_ftnref110" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn110;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[110]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“The older guys who had learned to surf in Hawaii,”
wrote Mike Doyle in his autobiography <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Morning
Glass</i>, “favored San Onofre because they thought it was a lot like Waikiki, with really long rides. Some of the younger
surfers, though, didn’t care for the wave at San Onofre because it came at you
from all directions. I called it billiard surfing because there were so many
angles, so many banks. I always thought it was an interesting wave.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“What I loved most about San Onofre, though, was the
creative energy there. The older surfers made tiki huts along the beach out of
driftwood and bamboo so they could get out of the sun when they wanted. It was
great to park there and lie in the shade of the tiki huts with rows of colorful
surfboards lined up against their sides. There were guys living in old panel
trucks they’d furnished in Polynesian style, with tapa cloth glued to the
ceilings and sea shells glued to the dashboards; even their beer can openers
were carved from wood, wrapped with string and varnished. They made their own
canvas hats and reinforced them with big brass grommets, then decorated them
with bottle caps. Some of the guys stitched big corks to the tops of their hats
and wore them surfing; if they fell off their boards, the hats floated.
Anything that washed up on the beach would find its way into some kind of
sculpture: carved tikis hacked out with an ax, huge seagulls and little
windmills made out of driftwood and mounted on long poles. When you were at San
Onofre, you felt as if you were part of an ocean culture that had its roots in Polynesia.”<a href="#_ftn111" name="_ftnref111" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn111;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[111]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“So, anyway,” E.J. said of the maturing San Onofre scene,
“then the San Onofre Surfing Club had it and, see, we ran a good ship. The
Marines were pleased with us and every year we had to renew the license… It
went on for years and years that way… up until three or four years before the
club ended [its stewardship]. Why, I was in charge of beach maintenance… I’d
hire a couple of high school kids – friends of surfers, friends of mine – and
between us, we’d keep that beach spotless. In fact, people still say ‘the State
never did the job you did!’”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn112" name="_ftnref112" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn112;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[112]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">At that time, Richard Nixon was President and the State of California took over
control of the beach. “There was a guy named Haldeman whose family surfed at
‘Nofre and were members of our club,” E.J. continued. “Haldeman was one of the
top men [in the Nixon administration]. Haldeman did a lot of smoothing over of
problems that might have arisen because he was so close to Nixon. So, we all
thought Nixon was great! Then, Nixon turned around and finally agreed that a
private club shouldn’t have the beach and it should be part of the [California] state [parks
and recreation system]. So, the State took over and then we <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">hated</i> Nixon!”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn113" name="_ftnref113" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn113;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[113]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">E.J. then worked for the State for a year, but “They didn’t
know what they were doing,” he explained. They called him back for a second
summer, but he declined.<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn114" name="_ftnref114" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn114;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[114]</span></span></span></a></span></span>
“The club continues. It’s only ten bucks a year,” E.J. added, emphasizing that
the club still kept good relations with the head ranger and “have clout” because of
the size of its membership.<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn115" name="_ftnref115" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn115;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[115]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677346">Since the 1970’s</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">“There’s only one way to describe it: every year,” E.J.
spoke of the contemporary San O scene, “more and more boards show up, and more
and more people, and more and more crowded parking.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn116" name="_ftnref116" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn116;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[116]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">Surf instruction like the Paskowitz surf school bring in a
bunch of people, causing some resentment towards surf schools. “The biggest
thing that’s gone wrong with ‘Nofre,” E.J. declared with a perspective of 65
some years, “is the crowds and every year it gets worse and worse. I don’t go
down on the weekends. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Not at all</i>…”<a href="#_ftn117" name="_ftnref117" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn117;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[117]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
His favorite days to go down are Mondays and to play music on Wednesdays.</p>
<p class="alsformat">What about his own surfboards, over the years?</p>
<p class="alsformat">“That first paddleboard I built,” E.J. recalled, “so help
me, was the world’s worst. There’s never been a worse board! It was absolutely
dreadful! No sooner when I learned how to stand upon it, if you tried to go on
any angle at all, the tail would slide out from under you and you’d <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">huli</i> (hoo-lee), just like a car in a
skid (laughs). You’d go right off the board! It was terrible! Anyway, the
second one I built – Tulie and Jimmy had started building deeper,
sharper-tailed paddleboards. So [I adopted that improved shape]… The second one
I built was a good one, because I’d followed the outline Jimmy and Tulie pretty
much engineered.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn118" name="_ftnref118" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn118;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[118]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I think my wife’s white ‘Zombie,’ which is the one I built
in Oakland [right before E.J. met his wife-to-be]
and rode in Santa Cruz,
was maybe my favorite board. It was a long… narrow paddleboard. It just worked
great in Santa Cruz.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“When I got back into surfing down here, why, I had a series
of balsa/redwoods. Finally, when the ‘foamies’ were really in, I got rid of my
last wooden board and got a Hobie – one of Hobie’s early foam boards.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“When I get a board, it’s like a car. I just keep it and
keep it. I’m happy with it, why go further afield? I’m real conservative that
way. If I like something – like, my wife. I’ve been married 56 years to her and
it’s been wonderful times. I like to stick with what I got.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn119" name="_ftnref119" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn119;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[119]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">E. J. met his wife Jo at a Presidio dance in San Francisco, in 1942.
They then honeymooned at the Biltmore, in Santa
Barbara.<a href="#_ftn120" name="_ftnref120" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn120;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[120]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">One day, in the late 1990’s, E.J. achieved national
recognition.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“The ‘Good Morning America’ [morning national television program]
people sent a crew down to ‘Nofre,” E.J. recalled. “They wanted me to go up to Malibu to join other old
timers.” But E.J. didn’t want to drive up that far. So, they ended up shooting
him at San Onofre (circa 1997-98).<a href="#_ftn121" name="_ftnref121" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn121;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[121]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">A little later, he saw an article about Doc Ball in a surf
mag:</p>
<p class="alsformat">“I don’t ordinarily buy copies of surfing mags,” E.J. told
me about an article Gary Lynch and I had written about Doc Ball in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard</i> magazine, “but I bought that
copy because of the way you handled it. I told my wife: ‘It sounds like Doc
Ball is talking to me as I was reading the article.’ A lot of his personality,
the way he used to talk and his speech patterns that I can remember – you know,
I could get it out of the article! That was quite an experience!”<a href="#_ftn122" name="_ftnref122" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn122;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[122]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I enjoyed the article in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard</i>. That made me think that somebody knew how things were.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn123" name="_ftnref123" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn123;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[123]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677347">Bamboo Room Philharmonic</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">Following on the heels of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Good Morning America, </i>Huell Howser of Los Angeles public television KCET-TV
interviewed and filmed E.J. and his fellow musicians at San Onofe in 1998.</p>
<p class="alsformat">Surf writer Chris Ahrens wrote about the Bamboo Room
Philharmonic in an article for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The
Surfer’s Journal</i>. Published in 1999, “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre” gave a
good glimpse into E.J.’s lifestyle as a musician as well as surfer.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“It was during the Depression years,” wrote Chris Ahrens, “a
time that Oshier remembers gleefully, that he and his friends became interested
in playing Polynesian music. ‘Nobody had any money, as so we’d go to Gene’s Hawaiian Village
or one of the other clubs that played Hawaiian music around L.A., pay 25 cents for a pitcher of beer and
milk it all night. We learned the music that way, from Hawaiian records and
Hawaiian radio broadcasts. If you have a good ear, you can listen to music and
pick it up. That’s what we did. In the mid-thirties and early-forties, Pua
Kealoha, a graceful Hawaiian surfer who weighed about 300 pounds and had a
beautiful voice, further helped us along. At first it was all Tahitian and
Hawaiian. Eventually, we also learned some jazz, blues and country-western. In
those days it was surfing, music, drinking and chasing ladies; not always in
that order.’”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn124" name="_ftnref124" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn124;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[124]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Seated in the inner circle are some men who have been
around since the WWII years,” continued Ahrens, “veterans of San-O. Elder
statesman, E.J. Oshier, with his vintage Gibson L7 and a smile you can’t get
this side of 65; Bruce Myers, the inventor of the dune buggy; UCLA professor,
Nobel laureate, Don Cram; Fred Thomas; Mike Evans, who at 44 years old, is
referred to as ‘the boy’ by the others… Mike McCaffery (“the salt water
songbird, our vocalist,” E. J. noted)<a href="#_ftn125" name="_ftnref125" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn125;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[125]</span></span></span></span></span></a>,
and a man known as Hedgehog.”<a href="#_ftn126" name="_ftnref126" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn126;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[126]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">“… The band plays Django [Rheinhardt]. Then, Tahitian,
Hawaiian, ‘40s Jazz… this is a sound like no other, the mournful and joyful
sound of San Onofre… Octogenarian, E.J. Oshier, is the unofficial conductor of
the group, unofficially known as Bamboo Room. They play no gigs except for
Wednesday night jams at San-O. There are no rehersals.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn127" name="_ftnref127" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn127;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[127]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“It’s a completely informal gathering,” said one member of
the Bamboo Room Philharmonic. “You never know who’s going to be there. But it’s
structured enough that we know it’s on Wednesdays and starts about 4:00.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn128" name="_ftnref128" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn128;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[128]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“Some of these men have been surfing and playing music
together for fifty years,” continued Ahrens. “They have a history, stories to
tell, but they’re not gathered to tell them. Instead, they play them in
sentimental songs like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Blue Moon</i> or <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Don’t Get Around Much Anymore</i>. Not
surprisingly, a large percentage of the songs like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Daphne</i> and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sweet Sue</i> are
named after girls. Many of the songs have deep Polynesian roots. Beyond the
circle, a group of old friends talk and laugh while passing around a photo
album. Some lie flat on the sand with heads bowed, remembering young love or
fallen comrades, or a time when the lobster and abalone and corbina were so
thick you’d gladly trade them pound for ounce for hot dogs.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn129" name="_ftnref129" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn129;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[129]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“You know, we’re crowded at ‘Nofre,” E.J. admitted, “but
there’s not a bad feeling like there is at so many beaches. People just get
along and if somebody makes a mistake, nobody gets mad. It’s just a good
environment.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn130" name="_ftnref130" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn130;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[130]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<h1><a name="_Toc82677348">No Secret Statement</a></h1>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat">“To me, surfing hasn’t meant becoming a great surfer,” E.J.
Oshier started to sum it up. “It hasn’t meant designing a great surfboard. It’s
meant just having a good board, having friends, having surf to go to, paddling
out and having a good time; riding and then the music side. Between the music
and the surfing and the warm sun and nice water… There’s no secret statement to
make about it.</p>
<p class="alsformat">“The way my life has run: financially, I’ve been able to do
what I’m doing. I never did make a lot of money. But, then I never spent a lot
of money. So, I didn’t need a lot of money. I surf cuz it’s fun and I think
it’s <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">good</i> for you to surf, too!”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn131" name="_ftnref131" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn131;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[131]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">“I’ve heard many of the older guys talking about things like
this,” E.J. continued, “and they say, ‘Well, I came down and it didn’t look too
good. I sure didn’t want to get in. I didn’t want to have to put on that damn
wetsuit’ and all that stuff. But, once you get in, you go out and get a wave.
Your whole day brightens. You may have been bumming when you got there, but
when you get out and ride some waves and come back in, you’re day’s picked up
and it stays good the rest of the day!</p>
<p class="alsformat">“Surfing’s fun! It’s not a serious study… and I love playing
the music…”<a href="#_ftn132" name="_ftnref132" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn132;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[132]</span></span></span></span></span></a></p>
<p class="alsformat">E.J. played in the heat of the day, so his fingers would move
freely. Bamboo Room itself played not far outside summer, also for comfort.</p>
<p class="alsformat">Advice for the young’uns: “Treat it as fun, not as a
battleground. I started in 1935 and it’s still fun today just like it was when
I first started and it’s been fun all the time [in between].”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn133" name="_ftnref133" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn133;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[133]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat">Final statement: “I don’t have a lot to tell in the way of
splendid happenings and tremendous situations. I just lived the life and had a
good time.”<span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> <a href="#_ftn134" name="_ftnref134" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn134;" title=""><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[134]</span></span></span></a></span></span></p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<p class="alsformat"> </p>
<div style="mso-element: footnote-list;"><br clear="all" />
<hr align="left" size="1" width="33%" />
<div id="ftn1" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref1" name="_ftn1" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn1;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[1]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. Name
spelling corrections by E.J., June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn2" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref2" name="_ftn2" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn2;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[2]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. Name
spelling corrections by E.J., June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn3" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref3" name="_ftn3" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn3;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[3]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary, “Doc Ball, Legendary Lensman,” April 10, 1990. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Also</i> Doc’s Notes on the draft, May
19-21, 1998. There was a waiting room, office, laboratory, darkroom, large room
(PVSC room) and toilet. In notes E.J. made on June 4, 2001, he locates “The
address of the theater was the corner of Vermont Avenue and Santa Barbara in S.W. Los Angeles.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn4" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref4" name="_ftn4" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn4;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[4]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary. Notes
on draft of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Doc Ball, Early California Surf Photog</i>,
May 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn5" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref5" name="_ftn5" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn5;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[5]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn6" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref6" name="_ftn6" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn6;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[6]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary, “Doc Ball, Legendary Lensman,” April 10, 1990.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn7" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref7" name="_ftn7" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn7;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[7]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Palos Verdes Surfing Club Creed documented in Lynch, Gary, “Doc Ball, Legendary
Lensman,” April 10, 1990.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn8" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref8" name="_ftn8" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn8;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[8]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with John “Doc” Ball, January 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn9" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref9" name="_ftn9" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn9;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[9]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary.
Notes on draft of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Doc Ball, Early California Surf Photog</i>,
May 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn10" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref10" name="_ftn10" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn10;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[10]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Lynch, Gary and Gault-Williams, Malcolm. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">TOM BLAKE: The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer
Waterman</i>, ©2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn11" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref11" name="_ftn11" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn11;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 8.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[11]</span></span></span></span></span></a>
Lynch, Gary.
Email message to Malcolm, November 1, 2001.</p>
</div>
<div id="ftn12" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref12" name="_ftn12" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn12;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[12]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary, “Doc Ball, Legendary Lensman,” April 10, 1990.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn13" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref13" name="_ftn13" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn13;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[13]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn14" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref14" name="_ftn14" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn14;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[14]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Santa Ana Daily Register</i>, July
31, 1928. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">See</i> Lueras, 1984, p. 107.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn15" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref15" name="_ftn15" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn15;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[15]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ehlers, Charles (“Chuck A Luck”). “Log Jam 1922,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 1, Number 2, May 1992, p. 46. Classic
photos. Chuck A Luck indicated he thought Hermosa formed, actually, in 1933
& Palos Verdes in 1934. Doc Ball was sure that the PVSC started out in 1935
and was unsure what club started first.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn16" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref16" name="_ftn16" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn16;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[16]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ehlers, 1992, p. 46. Note: Chuck A Luck thought Palos Verdes Surfing Club
started in 1934, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">after</i> the Hermosa
Beach Surfing Club. PVSC members included E.J. Oshier, </span><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">“Tulie Clark, ‘Doc’ Ball,
Hoppy Swarts, LeRoy Grannis and Johnny Gates. Note: PVSC line-up as listed by
Ehlers is incorrect in the 1992 article.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn17" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref17" name="_ftn17" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn17;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[17]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with John “Doc” Ball, January 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn18" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref18" name="_ftn18" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn18;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[18]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with John “Doc” Ball, January 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn19" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref19" name="_ftn19" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn19;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[19]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notes on draft of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Doc Ball, Early California
Surf Photog</i>, May 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn20" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref20" name="_ftn20" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn20;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[20]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn21" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref21" name="_ftn21" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn21;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[21]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn22" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref22" name="_ftn22" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn22;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[22]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn23" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref23" name="_ftn23" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn23;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[23]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn24" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref24" name="_ftn24" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn24;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[24]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 107. Quotes <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Los Angeles
Times</i> article by Jack Boettner, late 1970s/early 1980s.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn25" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref25" name="_ftn25" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn25;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[25]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 107. Quoting <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Santa Ana
Register</i> article by Stan Oftelie.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn26" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref26" name="_ftn26" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn26;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[26]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Oshier, E.J. Notations and
corrections on the draft, June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn27" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref27" name="_ftn27" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn27;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[27]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 107.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn28" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref28" name="_ftn28" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn28;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[28]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “Woody Brown: Pilot, Surfer, Sailor,” Volume 1 of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">LEGENDARY SURFERS</i> based on inteviews,
November 22, 1994.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn29" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref29" name="_ftn29" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn29;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[29]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 107 and 109.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn30" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref30" name="_ftn30" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn30;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[30]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 109. Cliff Tucker quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn31" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref31" name="_ftn31" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn31;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[31]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lueras, 1984, p. 109. Cliff Tucker quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn32" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref32" name="_ftn32" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn32;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[32]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn33" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref33" name="_ftn33" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn33;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[33]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ehlers, 1992, p. 46.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn34" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref34" name="_ftn34" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn34;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[34]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ehlers, 1992, pp. 46-47.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn35" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref35" name="_ftn35" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn35;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[35]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Clark, Rosie Harrison. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Let’s Go, Let’s
Go!</i> The Biography of Lorrin “Whitey” Harrison: California’s Legendary Surf Pioneer, ©1997
by Rosie Harrison Clark, one of Whitey’s daughters, pp. 12-13.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn36" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref36" name="_ftn36" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn36;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[36]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Stecyk, C.R.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Lorrin’s Barn,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 2, Number
4, Winter 1993, p. 36</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn37" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref37" name="_ftn37" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn37;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[37]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Stecyk, C.R.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Lorrin’s Barn,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 2, Number
4, Winter 1993, p. 36</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn38" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref38" name="_ftn38" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn38;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[38]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Stecyk, C.R.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Lorrin’s Barn,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 2, Number
4, Winter 1993, p. 36-37.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn39" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref39" name="_ftn39" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn39;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[39]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Stecyk, C.R.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Lorrin’s Barn,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 2, Number
4, Winter 1993, p. 36-37.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn40" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref40" name="_ftn40" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn40;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[40]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ehlers, 1992, p. 47.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn41" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref41" name="_ftn41" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn41;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[41]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">California</i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> Coastal Resource Guide</i>, ©1987, p. 332.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn42" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref42" name="_ftn42" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn42;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[42]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Cowell, 1994, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn43" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref43" name="_ftn43" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn43;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[43]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.
“Lahulio” corrected as Laholio by E.J., June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn44" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref44" name="_ftn44" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn44;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[44]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. Name
corrections made by E.J., June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn45" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref45" name="_ftn45" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn45;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[45]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn46" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref46" name="_ftn46" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn46;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[46]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn47" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref47" name="_ftn47" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn47;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[47]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn48" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref48" name="_ftn48" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn48;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[48]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn49" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref49" name="_ftn49" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn49;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[49]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Paskowitz, Dorian.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Tarzan at Waikiki,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The
Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 2, Number 2, Summer 1993. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">See</i> also Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “Lorrin ‘Whitey’ Harrison,” Volume 3 of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">LEGENDARY SURFERS</i>.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn50" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref50" name="_ftn50" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn50;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[50]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn51" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref51" name="_ftn51" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn51;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[51]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Cowell, 1994, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn52" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref52" name="_ftn52" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn52;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[52]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard</i>, Volume 4, Number 5,
November/December 1996, p. 18. Stan King quoted. Two bits equals one quarter
($0.25).</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn53" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref53" name="_ftn53" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn53;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[53]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn54" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref54" name="_ftn54" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn54;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[54]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn55" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref55" name="_ftn55" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn55;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[55]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. E.J.
mentioned there was one PVSC guy he didn’t get along with, but I didn’t catch
the name.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn56" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref56" name="_ftn56" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn56;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[56]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn57" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref57" name="_ftn57" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn57;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[57]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 80-81.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn58" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref58" name="_ftn58" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn58;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[58]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 80-81.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn59" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref59" name="_ftn59" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn59;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[59]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 80-81.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn60" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref60" name="_ftn60" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn60;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[60]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 82-83.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn61" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref61" name="_ftn61" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn61;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[61]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 82-83.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn62" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref62" name="_ftn62" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn62;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[62]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 82-83.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn63" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref63" name="_ftn63" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn63;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[63]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 82-83.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn64" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref64" name="_ftn64" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn64;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[64]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 84-85.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn65" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref65" name="_ftn65" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn65;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[65]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 86-87.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn66" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref66" name="_ftn66" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn66;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[66]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 90-91.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn67" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref67" name="_ftn67" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn67;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[67]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 92-93.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn68" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref68" name="_ftn68" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn68;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[68]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 44-47.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn69" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref69" name="_ftn69" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn69;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[69]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 46-47.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn70" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref70" name="_ftn70" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn70;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[70]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 52-53.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn71" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref71" name="_ftn71" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn71;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[71]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn72" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref72" name="_ftn72" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn72;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[72]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ball, 1946, 1979, 1995, pp. 54-55.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn73" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref73" name="_ftn73" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn73;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[73]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn74" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref74" name="_ftn74" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn74;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[74]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn75" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref75" name="_ftn75" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn75;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[75]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn76" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref76" name="_ftn76" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn76;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[76]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with John “Doc” Ball, January 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn77" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref77" name="_ftn77" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn77;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[77]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Lynch, Gary.
Notes on draft of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Doc Ball, Early California Surf Photog</i>,
May 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn78" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref78" name="_ftn78" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn78;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[78]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn79" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref79" name="_ftn79" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn79;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[79]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn80" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref80" name="_ftn80" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn80;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[80]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn81" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref81" name="_ftn81" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn81;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[81]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn82" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref82" name="_ftn82" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn82;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[82]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn83" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref83" name="_ftn83" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn83;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[83]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn84" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref84" name="_ftn84" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn84;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[84]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn85" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref85" name="_ftn85" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn85;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[85]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn86" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref86" name="_ftn86" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn86;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[86]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn87" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref87" name="_ftn87" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn87;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[87]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard
Quarterly</i>, “On Edge,” ©1994, Volume 2, Number 2, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn88" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref88" name="_ftn88" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn88;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[88]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn89" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref89" name="_ftn89" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn89;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[89]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn90" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref90" name="_ftn90" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn90;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[90]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn91" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref91" name="_ftn91" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn91;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[91]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn92" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref92" name="_ftn92" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn92;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[92]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn93" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref93" name="_ftn93" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn93;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[93]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard
Quarterly</i>, “On Edge,” ©1994, Volume 2, Number 2, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn94" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref94" name="_ftn94" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn94;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[94]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. Simmons
died in 1954 and the foam boards didn’t start to become available until
1957-58.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn95" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref95" name="_ftn95" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn95;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[95]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. Though
he never said anything about it to me, E.J. surprisingly held no grudge against
Bud, which he well could have because he had liked Mary Ann Hawkins a lot and
essentially lost her to Bud.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn96" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref96" name="_ftn96" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn96;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[96]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Oshier, E.J. Notations on
the draft, June 4, 2001, noted that “Dexter stopped by ‘Nofre in the early
1970s. I have a photo of him, Bud Morrissey and me, standing on the road. Was
the last I heard of him.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn97" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref97" name="_ftn97" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn97;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[97]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. E.J.
added, in his notations and corrections to the draft: “Last I heard of Laho, he
was running a beer joint in Wilmington
and having enormous marital problems.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn98" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref98" name="_ftn98" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn98;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[98]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Oshier, E.J. Notations and
corrections on the draft, June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn99" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref99" name="_ftn99" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn99;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[99]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn100" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref100" name="_ftn100" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn100;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[100]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn101" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref101" name="_ftn101" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn101;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[101]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn102" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref102" name="_ftn102" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn102;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[102]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn103" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref103" name="_ftn103" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn103;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[103]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard Quarterly</i>, “On Edge,”
©1994, Volume 2, Number 2, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn104" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref104" name="_ftn104" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn104;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[104]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn105" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref105" name="_ftn105" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn105;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[105]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 68. Mike Evans quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn106" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref106" name="_ftn106" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn106;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[106]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard Quarterly</i>, “On Edge,”
©1994, Volume 2, Number 2, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn107" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref107" name="_ftn107" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn107;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[107]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Cowell, Andrew. “San O’ Days: The San Onofre Surfing Club,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard Quarterly</i>, Vol. 2, No. 2,
August/September 1994, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn108" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref108" name="_ftn108" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn108;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[108]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Cowell, 1994, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn109" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref109" name="_ftn109" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn109;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[109]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Cowell, 1994, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn110" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none; text-align: justify;"><a href="#_ftnref110" name="_ftn110" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn110;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[110]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Longboard Quarterly</i>, “On Edge,”
©1994, Volume 2, Number 2, p. 14.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn111" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText" style="mso-pagination: none;"><a href="#_ftnref111" name="_ftn111" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn111;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[111]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Doyle, Mike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Morning Glass, The Adventures of Legendary Waterman Mike Doyle</i>,
©1993 by Mike Doyle and Steve Sorensen, Manzanita Press, PO Box 720, Three
Rivers, California<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>93271, pp. 38-39.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn112" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref112" name="_ftn112" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn112;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[112]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn113" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref113" name="_ftn113" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn113;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[113]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn114" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref114" name="_ftn114" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn114;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[114]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn115" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref115" name="_ftn115" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn115;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[115]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn116" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref116" name="_ftn116" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn116;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[116]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn117" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref117" name="_ftn117" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn117;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[117]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn118" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref118" name="_ftn118" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn118;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[118]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn119" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref119" name="_ftn119" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn119;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[119]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn120" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref120" name="_ftn120" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn120;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[120]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998. “For
one night only,” E.J. added in notations and corrections to the draft, June 4,
2001, “as the whole wedding operation had to be accomplished on a 3 day pass
from the Army – which included the train trip from L.A.
to S.F. and back to L.A.
again.”</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn121" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref121" name="_ftn121" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn121;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[121]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn122" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref122" name="_ftn122" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn122;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[122]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn123" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref123" name="_ftn123" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn123;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[123]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn124" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref124" name="_ftn124" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn124;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[124]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 68. E.J. Oshier quoted.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn125" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref125" name="_ftn125" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn125;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[125]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"> Oshier, E.J. Notations and
corrections to the draft, June 4, 2001.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn126" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref126" name="_ftn126" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn126;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[126]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 68.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn127" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref127" name="_ftn127" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn127;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[127]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 68.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn128" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref128" name="_ftn128" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn128;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[128]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 69. Speaker unknown. Check article.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn129" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref129" name="_ftn129" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn129;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[129]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Ahrens, Chris. “Wednesday Nights at ‘Nofre,” <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Surfer’s Journal</i>, Volume 8, Number 1, 1999. Photos by Jeff
Werve. Captions by Mike Evans, p. 69.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn130" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref130" name="_ftn130" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn130;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[130]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.
Interviewed same week as Opai died.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn131" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref131" name="_ftn131" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn131;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[131]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn132" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref132" name="_ftn132" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn132;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[132]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn133" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref133" name="_ftn133" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn133;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[133]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998.</span></p>
</div>
<div id="ftn134" style="mso-element: footnote;">
<p class="MsoFootnoteText"><a href="#_ftnref134" name="_ftn134" style="mso-footnote-id: ftn134;" title=""><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="mso-special-character: footnote;"><span class="MsoFootnoteReference"><span style="font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">[134]</span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">
Gault-Williams, Malcolm. Interview with E. J. Oshier, October 10, 1998</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;">.</span></p>
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<p></p><p><br /></p>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-75254239407870055282021-07-18T17:56:00.001-07:002022-09-23T20:47:59.514-07:00The Ka'iulani BoardAloha and welome to this LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on the the replica of the surfboard owned and ridden by Hawaiian Princess Victoria Ka‘iulani Kalaninuiahilapalapa Kawekiui Lunalilo, otherwise known to us as Princess Ka'iulani (1875-1899).
The replica was built by Legendary Surfer Wally Froiseth in conjunction with his fellow Hot Curl rider Fran Heath and others. It was finished in 2001. I wrote about it circa 2005.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERNMYVycyLSaF88EFkoIbjtqzsgaB3bgzHQACP9G6jix5MsM9phmBp7_LneJXdLzC_aOW0a3ayynxaWFxY1VbFA6Qsm9t02J4yV5SB2ZA22hnvq8AEkxS_wynawl1EhsBVlEXasSAXw91/s347/heath_wally.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="347" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgERNMYVycyLSaF88EFkoIbjtqzsgaB3bgzHQACP9G6jix5MsM9phmBp7_LneJXdLzC_aOW0a3ayynxaWFxY1VbFA6Qsm9t02J4yV5SB2ZA22hnvq8AEkxS_wynawl1EhsBVlEXasSAXw91/s320/heath_wally.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
One correction I must add to the chapter came to my attention from Bart Potter, in 2009: <div><br /></div><div>"I'm the one who split Wally's koa plank in two at my millsite in Kipapa Gulch. In the text there is mention of Papa Gulch--I'm guessing someone transcribed a conversation and a syllable was lost in the translation because Wally certainly knows the name of the gulch though I wouldn't expect him to remember my name. I did not supply him with the thick slab, just cut it in two for him. <div><br /></div><div> "The conjectures of Wally keeping an eye on things are right on--he was very attentive to the process and I asked him at every step of the way if he approved of the next step. We did a test cut on another piece of wood so he could be assured the saw would cut in a straight line, we dogged the slab on the mill, shimming it a little so that the blade would cut parallel to the best face, checked the entry and exit points before making any cut. When we let 'er rip, the slabs came out very nice." </div><div><br /></div><div>This chapter is in PDF format and freely available for reading, downloading and sharing at:</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/13hwjWp4S5S673m-8A43PDkdDG9307fsH/view?usp=sharing">https://drive.google.com/file/d/13hwjWp4S5S673m-8A43PDkdDG9307fsH/view?usp=sharing
</a></div></div>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6549855437775979032.post-10491432376101695802021-05-23T19:46:00.000-07:002021-05-23T19:46:17.592-07:00Dewey Weber (1938-1993)<div><p class="TOC1">Aloha and Welcome to the LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on Dewey Weber, put together by Malcolm Gault-Williams in the late 1990s.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowM66vs47n2MPxzPkD_kFVP2jB-7-qMQ4jaH0_mUGeOctp3KnAjSWVUHE-PKoIRiIWubNrhYdLKzr8ZOJ-ebC-6p3wC0Uek8ffMFDe6sGeW0e8dDnxPy22Eb1M5UiobjShv7rdrO07S1L/s574/grannis_dewey1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowM66vs47n2MPxzPkD_kFVP2jB-7-qMQ4jaH0_mUGeOctp3KnAjSWVUHE-PKoIRiIWubNrhYdLKzr8ZOJ-ebC-6p3wC0Uek8ffMFDe6sGeW0e8dDnxPy22Eb1M5UiobjShv7rdrO07S1L/s320/grannis_dewey1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Dewey Weber - Photo by Leroy Grannis</div><p class="Normal tm24"><br /></p><p class="Normal tm24"><span class="tm28">Appreciations go out to Jeff Duclos whose excellent and insightful biographical sketch of Dewey, published in </span><em>Longboard</em><span class="tm28">, Volume 4, Number 4, September/October 1996, is quoted throughout. </span>Jeff’s article on Dewey was particularly brave, as he included the uncomfortable subjects of Dewey’s takeover of the Velzy Shop and his later alcoholism. </p><p class="Normal tm24"><br /></p><p class="Normal tm24"><br /></p><h1 class="tm24"><strong>Contents:</strong></h1><p class="TOC1"> </p><p class="TOC1">Manahattan Beach Surf Club, 1943-1948</p><p class="TOC1">First Board</p><p class="TOC1">South Bay Surf Clubs</p><p class="TOC1">Early Surf, circa 1953</p><p class="TOC1">High School Rule, 1954-56</p><p class="TOC1">Hawaii, 1956-58</p><p class="TOC1">The Velzy/Weber Fallout, 1960</p><p class="TOC1">Weber Surfboards</p><p class="TOC1">Stories</p><p class="TOC1">The Weber Performer</p><p class="TOC1">East Coast Barnstormers, mid-'60s</p><p class="TOC1">Downturn, late 1960s</p><p class="TOC1">Gone Fishing, 1970s</p><p class="TOC1 PageBreak">The Bottle</p><p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span></p><p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm30"><span class="tm28"> Dewey Weber was born David Earl Weber on August 18, 1938 in Denver, Colorado. He went on to
become one of the greats in surfing in the 1950s and a great in the surfboard manufacturing world in the 1960s. His stardom, however, began at an early age. When Dewey was 8 years-old, his mother took him to an audition
where he won a part as "Buster Brown," the fantasy boy who lived in a shoe with his dog Tide. Dewey did in-store promotions as Buster Brown and by the age of 14 was a three-time National Duncan Yo-Yo Champion, appearing
on the national television show "You Bet Your Life," hosted by Groucho Marx. In high school, he was a three-time CIF westling champion and an All-State performer at El Camino College.<a href="#footnote1"><sup>1</sup></a><a id="footnote1back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> The only child of a German working class family, Dewey was exposed to water at an early age
through his babysitter. His father, Earl, was a truck driver and his mother, Gladys, worked at Denver's Nabisco cracker factory. At age 3, he had a babysitter who was also a lifeguard at a nearby municipal pool.<a href="#footnote2"><sup>2</sup></a><a id="footnote2back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "My early memories," Dewey recalled once, "are of being at the pool almost all
of the summer. By the time I was four, I could swim twice the length of the pool underwater. It came very natural to me for some reason."<a href="#footnote3"><sup>3</sup></a><a id="footnote3back"></a> Whether it helped
or not, Dewey had two webbed toes on each foot, a family trait passed on to every other generation on his mother's side.<a href="#footnote4"><sup>4</sup></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Manahattan Beach Surf Club, 1943-1948</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> The Webers relocated to Manhattan Beach during the war, in 1943.<a href="#footnote5"><sup>5</sup></a><a id="footnote5back"></a>
Dewey immediately adapted to the new surroundings:</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I spent my summers playing in the surf in the morning. The neighbor ladies had this
little clique and every day they'd go down and fish off the pier. So, in the afternoon, I'd fish off the pier with my mom."<a href="#footnote6"><sup>6</sup></a><a id="footnote6back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> It was while he was up top, on the pier, that he began to notice what was going on in the surf
off the beach. In 1946, surfers at Manhattan Beach amounted to the Manhattan Beach Surf Club whose members included Bev Morgan, Dale Velzy, Bob Hogan, George Kapu, Larry Felker, Jack Wise and Barney Biggs. The Father of
the Modern Surfboard, Bob Simmons would occasionally drive down from Santa Monica to surf the pier and play ping pong with some of the guys. "I'd sit with my feet hanging over the end of the pier and watch them for
hours," Dewey told one biographer.<a href="#footnote7"><sup>7</sup></a><a id="footnote7back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Watching from above, Dewey watched Velzy, Hogan and the rest of the surf club work with drawknives
on redwood and redwood/balsa boards underneath the pier. "The reason they were a formal club," Dewey recalled, "was so they could get the city to give them permission to build a clubhouse under the pier's
bathhouse, among the pilings." They pulled it off and, at one point, the knotty pine clubhouse was about 40 feet long and 15 feet wide. It had a main room and a smaller room where the board lockers and shower were located.<a href="#footnote8"><sup>8</sup></a><a id="footnote8back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey was first noticed by Barney Biggs in the Summer of 1947. Dewey was nine and still up
on the pier. Biggs called him down and asked him if he wanted to surf. "I'll never forget it," Dewey later recalled. "He gave me this old board. The thing was about 11 feet long and weighed about 110
pounds. It had a deep vee, hot curl-style tail and was made of solid pine and redwood."<a href="#footnote9"><sup>9</sup></a><a id="footnote9back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Getting the board to the water was an accomplishment, itself, for a 9 year-old. Paddling out
through the white water was even worse. "I thought," Dewey remembered, "'I'm never going to do this.' And I almost never did. It took me two years before I ever rode a wave."<a href="#footnote10"><sup>10</sup></a><a id="footnote10back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>First Board</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Thanks to the ground breaking efforts of Bob Simmons and then Joe Quigg in lightening surfboard
weight, the balsa board era started to kick in at the very beginning of the 1950s. It was at this point that Dewey's dad realized his son was serious about surfing and agreed to loan him the money to get a board of his
own. Dewey bought a used board from Bev Morgan for $35. It was a board Morgan, himself, had built, patterned after a Simmons prototype of the day. It had a big, round spoon nose to release water and discourage pearling.
The tail was wide and concave, with two small skegs on each side. At 8 feet long, "Bev didn't like it," Dewey said, "because it was too short."<a href="#footnote11"><sup>11</sup></a><a id="footnote11back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "The first day I surfed Malibu I was 11 years old," recalled Dewey Weber to Dewey
Shurman. "Billy Ming, a very historical guy in surfing who has gotten very little publicity, loaded me up in his '34 Ford pickup and took me to Malibu. We surfed, and then he got me a poor boy sandwich and said,
'You call this a poor boy.' And he handed me a bottle of Coors and said, 'That's a surfer's beer, and you may have half that beer.' And, Christ, that really lit my life on fire."<a href="#footnote12"><sup>12</sup></a><a id="footnote12back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span> </p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>South Bay Surf Clubs</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "We had a really good group of surfers back then in the South Bay," Dewey said with
some pride. "We were the gremmies and we eventually started our own clubs to get away from all the old men, because they used to terrorize us. A lot of those older guys were really radical. It got to the point that
they were beating up Greg Noll every day. He was just a skinny kid then."<a href="#footnote13"><sup>13</sup></a><a id="footnote13back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Bing Copeland, who was another gremmie who would go on to make a name for himself as a surfboard
manufacturer, remembers their treatment somewhat differently. "They pushed us around a lot," Bing conceded, "but they didn't beat us up."<a href="#footnote14"><sup>14</sup></a><a id="footnote14back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Greg Noll, another gremmie, also does not mention any beatings. In his case, particularly,
it was sometimes the case of "the mascot terrorizing the master."<a href="#footnote15"><sup>15</sup></a><a id="footnote15back"></a> Bing went on to tell about Noll coming to the beach with a little electric motor
that made an annoying noise. As bait boy at the pier, Greg would arrive around daybreak to find some of the members of the Manhattan Beach Surf Club sprawled on the beach, passed out from partying the night before. Noll
would sneak up on them and hold the buzzing motor close to their ears.</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "They'd chase him around," Bing went on, "rub his head in the sand, that
kind of stuff. But they were radical. They were the first to grow long hair and not wear shoes..."<a href="#footnote16"><sup>16</sup></a><a id="footnote16back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Unlike groups like the Palos Verdes Surf Club, the Manhattan Beach crew had no club jacket.
Instead, they had the leather thong.</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "The guys that belonged to it," Dewey said of the Manhattan Beach Surf Club, "wore
a leather thong around their left ankle, tied with a square knot. Anybody caught wearing a leather band around their ankle who was not in the club, got it. And I mean got it. This one kid had tried to join the club, but
they wouldn't let him in. They caught him wearing a thong on his ankle. They stripped him down naked and tied him to a stop sign on a Sunday afternoon."<a href="#footnote17"><sup>17</sup></a><a id="footnote17back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> By the time Dale Velzy opened his surfboard shop on Ocean Avenue and Manhattan Beach Boulevard
in 1953, a number of younger South Bay clubs had formed. Two of them were:</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28">• 17th Street Gang -- the "Hermosa Beach Seals" included Sonny Vardeman, Mike Bright, Steve Voorhees, Chip Post, Jeff White and Jim Lindsay [Greg Noll and Bing
Copeland had made it into the Manhattan Beach Surf Club].<a href="#footnote18"><sup>18</sup></a><a id="footnote18back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28">• 1st Street Gang -- included Dewey, Bibby Gibson, Richard Deese, Barry and Gary Stever, Wayne Coker, Roy Bream and Lum Edwards.<a href="#footnote19"><sup>19</sup></a><a id="footnote19back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Little remains of South Bay's Hotdog Years. A parking lot now sits where LuLu's White
Stop Cafe once stood. Located a half-block down from the Velzy shop, Dale and others used to hang out there, eat bear claws, drink coffee, talk surf. Across the street was Oscar's Fish & Tackle Shop, leveled years
ago to make way for another parking lot. Long gone are the old Manhattan Beach pier, bathhouse and the surfer's clubhouse. "The only thing that's there," Bing said in an interview in 1982, "is the
fire hydrant that sits in front of where Velzy's shop was. I remember sitting out there and tapping out a ring from a silver dollar. I still have it."<a href="#footnote20"><sup>20</sup></a><a id="footnote20back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Early Surf, circa 1953</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dale Velzy, a fine surfer in his own right, had both an eye for talent and a flair for salesmanship.
The first board shaper to both advertise and sponsor surfers by providing them surfboards, Velzy noticed Dewey Weber and brought him into the fold early on. His first board for Dewey was a candy-apple red board to match
the surf trunks Dewey's mother had made for him. While red would go on to become Dewey's trademark color, the Velzy board took his surfing to a higher level.<a href="#footnote21"><sup>21</sup></a><a id="footnote21back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Around the age of 15, Weber benefitted by the mobility of some of the older surfers around
him. Dewey's earliest memory of a riding the nose was on a trip to Palos Verdes Cove with Billy Ming.</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "It was a really good surf day -- about six or seven feet," Dewey remembered. "The
offshore wind was blowing hard and the waves were difficult to catch. When you'd paddle in and get to your feet, you had to be way up forward to drop in. I'd get up on the nose to drop in and make the thing get going.
It was super exciting to me, because it was a whole new thing -- to see how long you could stay there without pearling."<a href="#footnote22"><sup>22</sup></a><a id="footnote22back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> With Ming in his canary yellow Model-T truck, Dewey branched out to surf spots like San Onofre,
Trestles and Malibu. In the process, other surfers noticed him. While his contemporaries included Mickey Dora (4 years his senior), Dewey remembered mostly the talk about Phil Edwards (one year his junior), down in Oceanside.<a href="#footnote23"><sup>23</sup></a><a id="footnote23back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "We were aware of each other," he said in an interview in 1982. "People kept
telling me to watch out for this guy down south. 'He wears Levi's and ties them with a rope around his waist,' they'd say. 'They call him the Guayule Kid after this place he surfs in Carlsbad.' And
they'd tell him to watch out for this guy Dewey. 'He's this real short guy with blond hair and he's real husky.'"<a href="#footnote24"><sup>24</sup></a><a id="footnote24back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Both Dewey Weber and Phil Edwards met one day, at Trestles, while Weber was on another surf
surfari with Ming. There was what Dewey referred to as a crowd, that day -- four or five guys out. One of them was Edwards and Dewey remembers they spent the day trying to top each other in moves. Edwards, interviewed in
1982, didn't recall the session.<a href="#footnote25"><sup>25</sup></a><a id="footnote25back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>High School Rule, 1954-56</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> In 1954, when Dewey was a sophomore in high school, he got his first car -- a 1940 Ford sedan.<a href="#footnote26"><sup>26</sup></a><a id="footnote26back"></a>
Mobility at his own command broadened his surfing canvas:</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I used to ditch school and run off to Malibu in May and June," Dewey remebered.
"There'd be perfect six-foot swells and beautiful weather. I'd have to roust Tubesteak out of his shack so I'd have someone to surf with."<a href="#footnote27"><sup>27</sup></a><a id="footnote27back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Everybody from up and down the coast would come there: the legends. The kahunas. The
heroes," remembered Tubesteak, who became one of Dewey's lifelong friends. "They'd get out of their cars, step to the curb, and walk down to the beach. But they'd have their noses up in the air. Like,
'Here I am, the boy wonder from Swami's.' 'Here I am, the boy wonder from Trestles.'" Not so with Dewey. "He would always stop and talk with us -- if only to find out what the latest rumors
were. He took the time."<a href="#footnote28"><sup>28</sup></a><a id="footnote28back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> In his high school years, Dewey ruled the roost at Mira Costa High. "We had a group at
school that was mostly surfers and we ran the place," Dewey recalled. "The other group was the lowriders. Both groups were very close. They rode their motorcycles and hopped up their cars and we surfed. We came
together against all the football players. It worked out great."<a href="#footnote29"><sup>29</sup></a><a id="footnote29back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Like the lowriders, the Mira Costa High surfers had their own dress code: white J.C. Penney
t-shirts, v-neck sweaters, white belts and black corduroy pants, angora socks and black and white buck shoes. Remember, this was the mid '50s.<a href="#footnote30"><sup>30</sup></a><a id="footnote30back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Unlike many surfers, Dewey went in for a number of extra-curricular school activities including
wrestling and springboard diving. Freshman year, he had even tried his hand at quarterbacking. "I was really good at it," Dewey said of his handling of the football. "I just couldn't see over the line."
At 5 feet, 3 inches tall and 130 pounds, Dewey did better with wrestling and received a varsity letter in the sport his freshman year. "It was classic," he described. "I had this letterman sweater down to
my knees and a varsity letter, while a lot of these big football players had taken four years to letter. I took a lot of heat over that one."<a href="#footnote31"><sup>31</sup></a><a id="footnote31back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Hawaii, 1956-58</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey Weber graduated from Mira Costa High in 1956. That summer, he started wowing people
onshore with his showmanship. He was riding a Velzy 7'4" at the time.<a href="#footnote32"><sup>32</sup></a><a id="footnote32back"></a> Dewey's main focus, though, was getting to Hawai`i. He worked as a lifeguard
at Hermosa's old Biltmore Hotel, saving his money for his first trip to the Islands.<a href="#footnote33"><sup>33</sup></a><a id="footnote33back"></a> "Mike Bright had come back and told us about this place called
Makaha," Dewey recalled. "So, we went. There were 14 of us living in a two-room Quonset hut at the south end of the bay near Klausmeyers. Boy, I tell ya, that was a blast. We had one car for 14 guys and one ice
box -- with little sections taped off inside for each guy. Buzzy Trent and Buffalo Keaulana took me under their wing, adopted me, more or less, and taught me how to spear fish and how to free dive. I'd dive every day,
bring in a stringer of fish and trade those guys fish for eggs, butterscotch pudding, my share of the gasoline, my share of the rent." With Dewey that year were Gibby Gibson, Richard Deese, Gene Sedillo, Buddy Dobbs,
Lum Edwards, Steve Smith and Bummy Kennedy.<a href="#footnote34"><sup>34</sup></a><a id="footnote34back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "For Hawaii," Dewey told an interviewer, "I brought a really hot, light-weight,
single bottom, double deck-glassed balsa wood board. It weighed about 20 pounds. It was real wide and had a big, deep fin. It was one of the best boards I ever owned. The thing just ripped and Makaha was the perfect wave
for it."<a href="#footnote35"><sup>35</sup></a><a id="footnote35back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> But Weber's "flashy botdogging"<a href="#footnote36"><sup>36</sup></a><a id="footnote36back"></a>
style was the direct opposite of the style then ruling at Makaha. "You were supposed to stand erect and as still as possible," Dewey recalled. "It was considered dynamic." Dewey described how he would
maneuver around Makaha surfers like they were slalom gates -- dropping deep in the trough in front of them, cutting behind them and kicking out over the top.<a href="#footnote37"><sup>37</sup></a><a id="footnote37back"></a>
He later summarized his approach in an interview with an East Coast journalist by saying: "It's a great thrill to toy with nature. To do things out on the waves you know you shouldn't do."<a href="#footnote38"><sup>38</sup></a><a id="footnote38back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Predictably, Dewey Weber ruffled the feathers of more than one Hawaiian local. If it hadn't
been for the protection of Buffalo Keaulana and Buzzy Trent, he would have been pounded on more than once.<a href="#footnote39"><sup>39</sup></a><a id="footnote39back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> But, Dewey's surfing style was being noticed in favorable ways, too. "People stood
on the beach and pointed," he recalled. "You could see them pointing at you."<a href="#footnote40"><sup>40</sup></a><a id="footnote40back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey's first visit to the Islands is somewhat chronicled in Bud Browne's 1957 release,
</span><em>The Big Surf</em><span class="tm28">. From the film, a classic shot of Dewey surfing Makaha later became the symbol of the United States Surfing Association (USSA).<a href="#footnote41"><sup>41</sup></a><a id="footnote41back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Next year, around the time Greg Noll, Mike Stange, Mickey Muñoz, Bing Copeland, Pat
Curren, Del Cannon, Bob Bermell and Fred van Dyke broke open Waimea, on November 7, 1957, Dewey began branching over to the North Shore, also. "I remember pulling up to Laniakea. You'd look out there and see these
nice little curving lines and it looked great. Everything was so clear and colorful and bright, you'd lose your judgement as far as distance was concerned. You didn't see until you started to get out there that it
was a solid 20-foot plus. We did the best we could with the equipment we had. When we got home, we started building guns."<a href="#footnote42"><sup>42</sup></a><a id="footnote42back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> One memorable day in 1958, "The North Shore was blown out," Dewey recalled. "But
then it cleaned up a bit so I went out at Sunset myself. It was 20-foot. I was doing head dips in 20-foot waves, climbing and dropping, cutting back and stuff. By this time, I'd designed a board on which I could do
-- on a big wave -- darn near everything I could do on a small wave. I got out, after nearly drowning, and we drove over to Makaha and I paddled out. It was a solid 20-feet. Everyone knew I could rip small waves, but that
winter proved that I could rip big waves. Gordie's got some film of me coming into where the bowl peels over -- two-thirds of the way to the bottom -- then driving up through the top and kicking out; going left into the
curl on a 20-foot wave and turning right. For me, it's something I'll always remember."<a href="#footnote43"><sup>43</sup></a><a id="footnote43back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> For Dewey, this was the highlight of his life as a performance surfer in big waves. "(Then)
I went into business and it pretty much ended that whole thing," he concluded.<a href="#footnote44"><sup>44</sup></a><a id="footnote44back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>The Velzy/Weber Fallout, 1960</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> When Dewey was 22 and returned to the Mainland, in 1960, he lifeguarded for a little bit and
can be distinctly remembered as perched up on tower wearing a Mexican sombrero, surrounded by kids. His 15-minute breaks would stretch into an hour as he demonstrated for the gremmies the finer points of his surfing style.<a href="#footnote45"><sup>45</sup></a><a id="footnote45back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> He also went back to work for Velzy. By this time -- with surf shops in Venice, San Clemente
and San Diego -- Dale Velzy was known as "the world's largest manufactuer" of surfboards.<a href="#footnote46"><sup>46</sup></a><a id="footnote46back"></a> His former partner, Hap Jacobs, had left to start shaping
and manufacturing on his own. It was a time of revolutionary change in the surfboard manufacturing world. Polyurethane foam had finally been developed to the point where it was the preferred material over the rarer-to-score
balsa.<a href="#footnote47"><sup>47</sup></a><a id="footnote47back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> During Olympic wrestling trials, Dewey dislocated his elbow and, subsequently, he lost his
interest in that sport.<a href="#footnote48"><sup>48</sup></a><a id="footnote48back"></a> Meanwhile, things were taking a turn for the worse at the Velzy shop:</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I'd hired a bookkeeper and paid her real good," Velzy began the story. "I
told her you take care of the business end and I'll take care of making them and selling them. I had five shops and two factories going and I was selling 150 to 200 boards per week. The recession hit in 1959, and between
buying out Hap and my divorce settlement, things were tight. People were telling me to cut back and I said fuck that, when it gets critical is the time to go forward. I was selling boards for $85 that cost me $75 in materials
and overhead to make. I thought that I needed to sell more boards and that volume was the key to success. Then I started the 11/10 plan with Dial Finance. This was before plastic, and the idea of buying a board for eleven
dollars down and ten dollars a month was beginning to take off. My creditors were all okay and things looked good until the fucking State came down on me for sales tax. Then the Feds hammered me which scared all of the creditors
and that was it. They sold everything at auction including other people's consignment boards and repairs. Man the government didn't give a shit about anybody. Hell, I'd been paying 'em all along, but when
the State started pressuring me it triggered a chain of events that couldn't be stopped."<a href="#footnote49"><sup>49</sup></a><a id="footnote49back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I came to work at the San Clemente shop one morning," recalled surfing stylist Henry
Ford, "and it was padlocked shut. A legal notice was attached to the door and we were stunned, no one had a clue what was going on. The Hawk drove up in his Mercedes and says, 'Hey Fordy, what's the deal.'
When I read to Dale, 'By the judges order, closed for non-payment of taxes' part on the notice, he was totally surprised. All Velzy could say was 'What taxes?' The guy was a real surfer. No one was a businessman
back then. Things like business plans might as well have been from Mars. Our lives were about how much fun you could have. None of us were keeping score. You can imagine how much success the Hawk had in trying to explain
that to the tax court."<a href="#footnote50"><sup>50</sup></a><a id="footnote50back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Dale had a bunch of higher paid people that weren't really pulling their weight and
were sucking money out of the company," added Mickey Muñoz. "The bookkeeper would tell him that each board he sold was costing him money. Velzy would reach into his pocket and pull out a wad of hundred dollar
bills because he'd have just sold six boards on a Saturday morning at the shop. He was smoking dollar Havana cigars, wearing diamonds and driving a Gullwing Mercedes. The Hawk would tell her, 'What do you mean?
I've got plenty of money right here.'</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Our business meetings were held at Joe Kiawes Restaurant in San Pedro. It was a very
famous gathering spot for displaced Hawaiians, dock workers and other rough-tough guys who'd eat poi and pu-pus. We'd start out in Dale's personal Gullwing Mercedes and end up at Joe's having wonderful business
meetings. Things were wide open and loose. We'd party a lot. Nobody was really in the system. When the IRS came down on Velzy, he was the biggest surfboard builder in the world. He went down big time."<a href="#footnote51"><sup>51</sup></a><a id="footnote51back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "We knew Velzy had to be rich," Mike Doyle related in his book </span><em>Morning Glass</em><span class="tm28">, "because he drove a Gullwing Mercedes and wore a big diamond ring. Anybody as slick as the Hawk had to be rich. One day late in the summer, some guys in three-piece
suits showed up at his San Clemente shop. Henry Ford told me they were from the IRS. At the time I didn't even know what that meant, but I knew the padlock they placed on the shop door was big trouble."<a href="#footnote52"><sup>52</sup></a><a id="footnote52back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> This is where Dewey Weber came into the picture. "I didn't especially want to lifeguard,"
he explained. "I wanted to go to the Islands, so I built a couple of boards for myself. Some friends came by and asked me to build them boards. After I'd built about 15 in my dad's garage, he was having a fit."<a href="#footnote53"><sup>53</sup></a><a id="footnote53back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey convinced his father to loan him the $1,500 to lease the Velzy shop in Venice. "My
whole plan was to build surfboards in the summertime, go to Hawaii until January, then to Mammoth and ski until May, then build surfboards all summer -- like I'd been doing for four years. But it didn't work out that
way. I opened the door and boom! I had 30 orders."<a href="#footnote54"><sup>54</sup></a><a id="footnote54back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Caught with the short end of the stick and not only the building going to Weber, but his blanks
and tools, as well, Velzy has a different perspective than Weber. "There was a point when my business problems could have been cleared up," Velzy said, "and I still thought I could work it out. I planned to
go back to my Venice shop and rebuild. I still had loads of orders and I knew it was only a matter of time till the economy would right itself. But then I got a call from my landlord. He thanked me for my ten years of business
and told me he was sorry that I was out of business. I said, 'Hold on here, what are you talking about?' He told me that my employee had taken a lease out on my shop. Things at Venice had been strange for a while.
I'd sent my sister there to watch over the place, but the numbers never added up right. Between some used boards being sold on the side and a few new boards which were being built off of my books and sold by the same
couple of factory guys, I already knew Venice was out of balance. So I went up there to talk. I always liked the guy [Weber] and he was a great surfer. I was paying him $200 a week to manage the shop which was a lot of
money at the time. I asked him to level with me and all I got was double talk. I ended up holding the chicken shit up to the ceiling by his neck and telling him, 'Look you little bastard, you didn't have to lie, if
you'd been straight with me I could have made you a partner.' He was crying and lying as the other guys there broke it up. Shit, it's not what he did, but how he did it. I never spoke to him again, he didn't
have the guts to apologize."<a href="#footnote55"><sup>55</sup></a><a id="footnote55back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "When Dale fired the guy [Weber] he was in tears," said Donald Takayama, "crying
on the outside, but laughing on the inside -- he had a garage full of Velzy's blanks."<a href="#footnote56"><sup>56</sup></a><a id="footnote56back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Controversy continues to this day concerning this dark moment in surfing history. "There
are lots of stories," said Tak Kawahara about how Dewey ended-up with Velzy's shop at 4821 Pacific Avenue, along with his tools and blanks. "It depends on who you talk to." Kawahara later joined Dewey
as a shaper.<a href="#footnote57"><sup>57</sup></a><a id="footnote57back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> A good number of the surfers who were around at the time still refuse to go on record about
the whole deal. Those that speak about it usually leave Dewey's name out of it, although they point to him as the culprit. While some say Dewey stole materials from Velzy to start his business, others say Velzy owed
Dewey a large sum in commissions and Dewey took the blanks as payment.<a href="#footnote58"><sup>58</sup></a><a id="footnote58back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "They were both very aggressive businessmen," summed-up Sonny Vardeman. "Let's
just say they both went their separate ways."<a href="#footnote59"><sup>59</sup></a><a id="footnote59back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Dewey would never discuss it," his former wife Caroline said. "Dewey never
had a bad word to say about Dale, other than he couldn't handle his money. He died without saying anything about the situation, and it's really a shame they couldn't reconcile before Dewey's death."<a href="#footnote60"><sup>60</sup></a><a id="footnote60back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dale Velzy never spoke to Weber again. And even after Weber's death, Velzy spoke bitterly
about the start-up of Weber Surfboards. "I treated him like a son," Velzy told Jeff Duclos. "I made him boards. Made him manager of my shop. I gave him the world. Then, the next thing you know, he's
stabbing me in the back."<a href="#footnote61"><sup>61</sup></a><a id="footnote61back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Weber Surfboards</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> As polyurethane foam and fiberglass made surfing more accessible to larger numbers of beach
and ocean lovers, Dewey Weber found himself at the right place at the right time. Surfing had gained such a popularity that, at the start of the 1960s, Hollywood was promoting it -- albiet in its own way.</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Having studied under Velzy, Dewey knew the value of promotion. "When I started surfing
in San Diego in 1960," recalled Jeff Duclos, "all of the guys rode boards by Gordon & Smith, except for one. He rode a pintail Weber pig board, which he'd bought out of the back of a panel truck parked on
the bluff overlooking Crystal Pier, a short block from the G&S shop. We all envied him."<a href="#footnote62"><sup>62</sup></a><a id="footnote62back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> The van and its placement were no accident or chance occurance. Mike Hynson and Skip Frye
periodically drove up to Dewey's place to party and shape a few boards. The boards were then loaded into a turquoise panel truck. Mike, Skip and Dewey and Caroline Weber would then head back down to San Diego to surf
and sell their boards.<a href="#footnote63"><sup>63</sup></a><a id="footnote63back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> As time went on, business just got bigger. With large numbers of American kids wanting to
surf, surfboard manufacturers found themselves having difficulty keeping up. It took an average of 6-to-8 weeks to deliver a finished board. While a lot of other shop owners were reluctant to make the necessary investments
to increase production to meet demand, Dewey was not. After he brought Harold Iggy in to handle the shaping side of the business, he went on to hire others for production and sales in order to expand the business.</span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Dewey was an aggressive businessman," repeated Sonny Vardeman, an early dealer for
Weber Surfboards. "That was his surfing style, and that's the way he ran his business. He wouldn't just think about something, he'd do it. He was very energetic, but he wasn't hyper. He had his energy
directed. He did things with flair, but he had an objective."<a href="#footnote64"><sup>64</sup></a><a id="footnote64back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> He bought special milling and profile machines developed by Harold Walker to streamline the
manufacturing end. "By the time we got a blank," Tak Kawahara recalled, "it was milled and cut to shape, with the sides squared off. We'd [just] finish it and turn the rails."<a href="#footnote65"><sup>65</sup></a><a id="footnote65back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Dewey didn't come up with the idea of milling blanks," Kawahara clarified.
"But he applied it and he advertised it. He had foresight. Surfboards were considered a piece of fine craftsmanship. Like fine furniture. Mention machinery and it wasn't considered soulful. It was like Bob Dylan
walking on stage with an electric guitar [for the first time]. You've got to give him credit for thinking of the repercussions and using advertising to make it a positive."<a href="#footnote66"><sup>66</sup></a><a id="footnote66back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "He was a go-getter. He got the market going," agreed Harold Walker, one of the
first to have experimented with polyurethane foam before it became popular. "I had this van and every morning at 6 a.m. we loaded it up and off it went to Dewey's -- 60 blanks. We were running 24 hours a day then,
with 25 to 30 guys working."<a href="#footnote67"><sup>67</sup></a><a id="footnote67back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Taking pages from the Velzy book, Dewey set himself up with Dial Finance to sell boards on
credit. By the end of 1962, over 25,000 surfboards were sold in the United States. A good portion of them were Surfboards By Dewey Weber.<a href="#footnote68"><sup>68</sup></a><a id="footnote68back"></a> Following another
Velzy-invented practice, Dewey began recruiting riders for his surfboard line. Standouts included Donald Takayama, who also shaped for him for a time; David Nuuhiwa; Ricky Young; Jackie Baxter; Joey Hamasaki; Rell Sunn; JoJo
Perrin; Bob Purvey; Randy Rarick; Gary Propper; Mike Tabeling and Nat Young.<a href="#footnote69"><sup>69</sup></a><a id="footnote69back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Stories</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Many stories are told about Dewey Weber. In a foreshadowing of continued excessive alcohol
use throughout his life, there is the image of Dewey greeting Gibby Gibson upon Gibby's return from the army in the early 1960s: "Let's go get a pitcher!" were his first words to his friend.<a href="#footnote70"><sup>70</sup></a><a id="footnote70back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Then there is the story told by Linda Benson of the time she and Dewey were surfing Trestles
in 1961. It's her favorite memory of Dewey. The waves were six feet and perfect. Dewey wore his trademark red trunks, riding a red board and ripping. The Marines were on the beach firing their guns in the air to clear
the break. Dewey and Linda stayed out long enough to catch a few more classic waves on a classic day, then were escorted off government property by the Marines equipped with a tank.<a href="#footnote71"><sup>71</sup></a><a id="footnote71back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>The Weber Performer</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey got so successful at advertising his product that, at one point, his advertisements were
almost as eagerly awaited as his latest board design. During the early days of the Weber Performer model, 15-year-old Bill Handler saw one of Dewey's early ads and thought it was terrible. He had his mother drive him
to the shop and then went about telling Dewey that he could do much better. Dewey's response was: "Let's see what you can do," recalled Handler. "He liked what he saw and we sat down and began working
on an ad for The Performer. We tried to be entertaining and to come up with something clever. I hated the hard-sell of the day. Every ad was a guy riding a wave. So, the first ad I did was a chess board. In the middle
of the chess board was a Weber sticker. The copy line was 'It's your move.'" The Performer ad campaign would go on to become one of the most ambitious surfboard sales campaigns of all time.<a href="#footnote72"><sup>72</sup></a><a id="footnote72back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>East Coast Barnstormers, mid-'60s</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> By the mid-1960s, Dewey Weber Surfboards had surf teams as far away as Oregon, Texas, Florida,
the Carolinas, Virginia Beach, Maryland, New Jersey, New York and Maine. While most manufacturers would merely visit their dealerships, Dewey would descend upon his sales regions with teams of riders, surfing exhibitions,
and surf films.<a href="#footnote73"><sup>73</sup></a><a id="footnote73back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> The 1965 Weber tour of the East Coast set a standard for surfing promotions. The tour started
at the first artificial wave pool called "Big Surf," in Tempe, Arizona. From there, it swung down and along the Gulf Coast through Texas and Florida and on up the eastern seaboard. Following the van filled with
team members and Dewey and Caroline was surf filmmaker Jamie Budge. These "barnstormers" would pull into a surf town, meet with the shop owner or Weber Surfboards dealer, make in-store appearances for sponsors such
as Laguna Sportswear, or appear at a local event like a boat show, set up a surfing contest and exhibition at the local beach and cap it off in the evening with a surf film at a local auditorium.<a href="#footnote74"><sup>74</sup></a><a id="footnote74back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> While on the East Coast, Dewey won the Governor's Trophy at the East Coast Surfing Championships.
The next year, he would win the Senior Men's Division at the U.S. Surfing Championships held at Huntington Beach.<a href="#footnote75"><sup>75</sup></a><a id="footnote75back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Downturn, late 1960s</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> As Velzy had done in the 1950s, by the mid-1960s, Dewey Weber had become the largest surfboard
manufacturer. This time, though, it was not only </span><em>of</em><span class="tm28"> the United States, but of the </span><em>world</em><span class="tm28">. At his peak, he was turning out over 300 boards a week. There are stories of Dewey and Harold Iggy walking into a car dealership in their bare feet and Dewey peeling off
cash for a new yellow Porsche. Another story tells of Dewey buying Caroline a new gold Thunderbird as a wedding gift.<a href="#footnote76"><sup>76</sup></a><a id="footnote76back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> When the downturn came in the late 1960s, Dewey thought it was just temporary. He wasn'
t alone. The other surfboard manufacturers felt the same way. "When we figured out that it wasn't," Tak Kawahara remembers, "it was too late."<a href="#footnote77"><sup>77</sup></a><a id="footnote77back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "It's the same problem as today," Harold Walker added. "The product is
under-priced. The margins are so small in the surfboard business that (when) the slightest mishap (occurs) the whole house of cards falls. Once the volume stops, you're dead."<a href="#footnote78"><sup>78</sup></a><a id="footnote78back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> For Dewey, as for all the other mass-production surfboard makers of the time, the ride was
over. "It went from selling everything you could make to selling just local," recalled Bing Copeland.<a href="#footnote79"><sup>79</sup></a><a id="footnote79back"></a> Dewey downsized as fast as he could, butg
he took heavy financial losses. When the adjustment was done, he settled into a small shop in Hermosa Beach. Earlier, trying to keep up with the trends in surfboard design, he'd tried to transition into shortboards.
Like Greg Noll, who attempted to do the same thing, he met with no success.<a href="#footnote80"><sup>80</sup></a><a id="footnote80back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>Gone Fishing, 1970s</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> So, like Harold Walker, Hap Jacobs, Mark Martinson, Greg Noll, Del Cannon and others of his
age, Dewey decided to go fishing. In the early 1970s, he built a two-man swordfishing boat called the </span><em>Avispa</em><span class="tm28"> and started logging major time on the water. "Soon," wrote Jeff Duclos, "surf stories turned into fishing stories."<a href="#footnote81"><sup>81</sup></a><a id="footnote81back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"></span><strong>The Bottle</strong></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> In the early 1980s, a longboard contest circuit reformed along the Southern California coast
and Dewey Weber was in it early. The circuit's beginning is marked by a contest held at Leo Carrillo State Beach -- otherwise known to surfers as Arroyo Sequit or just plain Secos. "The morning of the Oar House
event," wrote Jeff Duclos, "shoulder-high waves were peeling off Leo Carrillo's Big Rock and, though Dewey hadn't surfed in nearly a year, his team members coaxed him into entering... To his surprise, Dewey
advanced through his first heat with relative ease."<a href="#footnote82"><sup>82</sup></a><a id="footnote82back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I remember the last three heats," said John Joseph, "with less than a minute
to go in each, and I'd say: 'Where's Dewey?' And out from behind the rock he'd come, on the nose, in his famous arch, moving across the face of the wave. In the inside, he'd do a big cutback and then
move right back up to the nose. He made the finals -- and he hadn't surfed competitively in well over 15 years. There were some good surfers there that day. John Baker, JoJo Perrin, and J. Riddle made the final with
him... He had the ability to come from out of nowhere. It was unique. It was a star quality he had."<a href="#footnote83"><sup>83</sup></a><a id="footnote83back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "I surfed against Dewey in a lot of contests over the years," said Baker. "He
was always the first guy in the water for his heats and he was a fierce competitor. But I remember that day well. He was just arching from the nose... thrilled."<a href="#footnote84"><sup>84</sup></a><a id="footnote84back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> In the very beginning of the longboard revival, Dewey sponsored the Dewey Weber Longboard Surfing
Classic. "The whole '60s era of surfing seems to be coming back into focus," he told an interviewer in 1982. "It's really apparent in the music scene -- the kids have started the whole thing rolling.
Older surfers are getting back in the water and our Weber Performer is making a genuine comeback. The business looks more solid now than it has for over 10 years."<a href="#footnote85"><sup>85</sup></a><a id="footnote85back"></a>
Although his words proved to be prophetic, Dewey never reaped any benefit from the longboarding revival nor capture the magic touch he once had ontop a surfboard. By the 1980s, years of hard drinking were beginning to take
their toll.<a href="#footnote86"><sup>86</sup></a><a id="footnote86back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> Dewey was part of a generation and more of surfers for whom The Life was defined in terms of
a "surf all day and always party hard" lifestyle.<a href="#footnote87"><sup>87</sup></a><a id="footnote87back"></a> In the end, excessive alcohol use can be directly linked to Dewey's loss of a profitable business
and his loss of wife, friends and health. As the years went by, Dewey surfed less and less.<a href="#footnote88"><sup>88</sup></a><a id="footnote88back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "A lot of us partied hard," Linda Benson declared. "Dewey had a choice. I'm
a recovering alcoholic. I'm 17 years clean and sober. People tried to help him. I'd go down to his shop, but somehow he was never there. Alcoholism is a disease that (hides itself from you)."<a href="#footnote89"><sup>89</sup></a><a id="footnote89back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "Surfing has a dark side," agreed Joe Doggett in an article that appeared in the
Houston Chronicle after Dewey's death. "It's a maverick lifestyle; it attracts the renegades and cavaliers and one-eyed jacks. It has no place for the dull and ordinary. Surf stars, like rock stars, play hard
and sometimes cannot control the power and the beauty that they possess."<a href="#footnote90"><sup>90</sup></a><a id="footnote90back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> In that year before he died," his former wife Caroline recalled, "Dewey told me about
that first surf trip he went on with the older South Bay guys. He was 13 at the time. He talked about how they handed him a beer and he felt like he'd arrived, like he was finally accepted as a surfer, as one of the
guys... 'How was I to know?' he said" of the ramifications of a life with alcohol.<a href="#footnote91"><sup>91</sup></a><a id="footnote91back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> When Dewey died in 1993, news of his passing went around the world. Newspaper and broadcast
eulogies appeared virtually everywhere. The California State Senate adjourned in his honor. "His death," wrote Jeff Duclos, "reaffirmed something Dewey had completely lost sight of."<a href="#footnote92"><sup>92</sup></a><a id="footnote92back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> "His problem," said Lance Carson, who knew him most of his life, "was that he
didn't have enough confidence in who he was. He had no confidence in his own name. He was always trying to be something more, but he never had anything to prove. He was already there."<a href="#footnote93"><sup>93</sup></a><a id="footnote93back"></a></span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm27"><span class="tm28"> </span></p>
<p class="Normal tm24 tm35"><span class="tm28">––––––––––––––––––––––––</span></p>
<p class="Normal"> </p><hr />
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote1"></a><a href="#footnote1back"><sup>1</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, Jeff. "In Trim: Dewey Weber," </span><em>Longboard</em><span class="tm31">, Volume 4, Number 4, September/October 1996, p. 35.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote2"></a><a href="#footnote2back"><sup>2</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote3"></a><a href="#footnote3back"><sup>3</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote4"></a><a href="#footnote4back"><sup>4</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote5"></a><a href="#footnote5back"><sup>5</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote6"></a><a href="#footnote6back"><sup>6</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote7"></a><a href="#footnote7back"><sup>7</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote8"></a><a href="#footnote8back"><sup>8</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, pp. 35-36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote9"></a><a href="#footnote9back"><sup>9</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote10"></a><a href="#footnote10back"><sup>10</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote11"></a><a href="#footnote11back"><sup>11</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote12"></a><a href="#footnote12back"><sup>12</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> </span><em>Surfer</em><span class="tm31">, October 1993. Dewey Weber quoted by Dewey Shurman.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote13"></a><a href="#footnote13back"><sup>13</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote14"></a><a href="#footnote14back"><sup>14</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Bing Copeland.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote15"></a><a href="#footnote15back"><sup>15</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote16"></a><a href="#footnote16back"><sup>16</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Bing Copeland.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote17"></a><a href="#footnote17back"><sup>17</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote18"></a><a href="#footnote18back"><sup>18</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote19"></a><a href="#footnote19back"><sup>19</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote20"></a><a href="#footnote20back"><sup>20</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36. Bing Copeland.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote21"></a><a href="#footnote21back"><sup>21</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 36.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote22"></a><a href="#footnote22back"><sup>22</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote23"></a><a href="#footnote23back"><sup>23</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote24"></a><a href="#footnote24back"><sup>24</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote25"></a><a href="#footnote25back"><sup>25</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote26"></a><a href="#footnote26back"><sup>26</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote27"></a><a href="#footnote27back"><sup>27</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 37. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote28"></a><a href="#footnote28back"><sup>28</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, pp. 37-38. Tubesteak Tracy.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote29"></a><a href="#footnote29back"><sup>29</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote30"></a><a href="#footnote30back"><sup>30</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote31"></a><a href="#footnote31back"><sup>31</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote32"></a><a href="#footnote32back"><sup>32</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> </span><em>The Surfer's Journal</em><span class="tm31">, Volume 1, Number 3, C.R. Stecyk, p. 52.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote33"></a><a href="#footnote33back"><sup>33</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote34"></a><a href="#footnote34back"><sup>34</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote35"></a><a href="#footnote35back"><sup>35</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote36"></a><a href="#footnote36back"><sup>36</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote37"></a><a href="#footnote37back"><sup>37</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote38"></a><a href="#footnote38back"><sup>38</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote39"></a><a href="#footnote39back"><sup>39</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote40"></a><a href="#footnote40back"><sup>40</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote41"></a><a href="#footnote41back"><sup>41</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 38.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote42"></a><a href="#footnote42back"><sup>42</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, pp. 38-39. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote43"></a><a href="#footnote43back"><sup>43</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote44"></a><a href="#footnote44back"><sup>44</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote45"></a><a href="#footnote45back"><sup>45</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote46"></a><a href="#footnote46back"><sup>46</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Lueras, 1984, p. 118.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote47"></a><a href="#footnote47back"><sup>47</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote48"></a><a href="#footnote48back"><sup>48</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote49"></a><a href="#footnote49back"><sup>49</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," p. 43. Dale Velzy quoted. Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote50"></a><a href="#footnote50back"><sup>50</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," p. 43. Henry Ford quoted. Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote51"></a><a href="#footnote51back"><sup>51</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," pp. 43-44. Mickey Munoz quoted. Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote52"></a><a href="#footnote52back"><sup>52</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," p. 44. Mike Doyle quoted. </span><em>See also</em><span class="tm31"> Doyle, </span><em>Morning Glass.</em><span class="tm31"> Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote53"></a><a href="#footnote53back"><sup>53</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote54"></a><a href="#footnote54back"><sup>54</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote55"></a><a href="#footnote55back"><sup>55</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," p. 44. Dale Velzy quoted, referring, I believe, to Dewey Weber.
This quote may have come from Noll's "Da Bull," Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText tm34"><a id="footnote56"></a><a href="#footnote56back"><sup>56</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Stecyk, "Tales of the Hawk," p. 44. Donald Takayama quoted. Duplicated in Volume 1 of </span><em>LEGENDARY SURFERS</em><span class="tm31">, "Dale 'The Hawk' Velzy."</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote57"></a><a href="#footnote57back"><sup>57</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 39. Tak Kawahara.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote58"></a><a href="#footnote58back"><sup>58</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote59"></a><a href="#footnote59back"><sup>59</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Sonny Vardeman.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote60"></a><a href="#footnote60back"><sup>60</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Caroline Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote61"></a><a href="#footnote61back"><sup>61</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Dale Velzy.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote62"></a><a href="#footnote62back"><sup>62</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote63"></a><a href="#footnote63back"><sup>63</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote64"></a><a href="#footnote64back"><sup>64</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Sonny Vardeman.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote65"></a><a href="#footnote65back"><sup>65</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Tak Kawahara.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote66"></a><a href="#footnote66back"><sup>66</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Tak Kawahara.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote67"></a><a href="#footnote67back"><sup>67</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40. Harold Walker.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote68"></a><a href="#footnote68back"><sup>68</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 40.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote69"></a><a href="#footnote69back"><sup>69</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote70"></a><a href="#footnote70back"><sup>70</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote71"></a><a href="#footnote71back"><sup>71</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote72"></a><a href="#footnote72back"><sup>72</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, pp. 40-41. Bill Handler.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote73"></a><a href="#footnote73back"><sup>73</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote74"></a><a href="#footnote74back"><sup>74</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote75"></a><a href="#footnote75back"><sup>75</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote76"></a><a href="#footnote76back"><sup>76</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote77"></a><a href="#footnote77back"><sup>77</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41. Tak Kawahara.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote78"></a><a href="#footnote78back"><sup>78</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41. Harold Walker.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote79"></a><a href="#footnote79back"><sup>79</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41. Bing Copeland.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote80"></a><a href="#footnote80back"><sup>80</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote81"></a><a href="#footnote81back"><sup>81</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 41.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote82"></a><a href="#footnote82back"><sup>82</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote83"></a><a href="#footnote83back"><sup>83</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35. John Joseph.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote84"></a><a href="#footnote84back"><sup>84</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 35. John Baker.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote85"></a><a href="#footnote85back"><sup>85</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, pp. 41-42. Dewey Weber.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote86"></a><a href="#footnote86back"><sup>86</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote87"></a><a href="#footnote87back"><sup>87</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Wolfe, Tom. </span><em>The Pump House Gang</em><span class="tm31">.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote88"></a><a href="#footnote88back"><sup>88</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote89"></a><a href="#footnote89back"><sup>89</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42. Linda Benson.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote90"></a><a href="#footnote90back"><sup>90</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42. Joe Doggett.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote91"></a><a href="#footnote91back"><sup>91</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42. Caroline Weber recalling Dewey's rememberance.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote92"></a><a href="#footnote92back"><sup>92</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42.</span></p>
<p class="FootnoteText"><a id="footnote93"></a><a href="#footnote93back"><sup>93</sup></a> <span class="tm31"> Duclos, 1996, p. 42. Lance Carson.</span></p></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Malcolm Gault-Williamshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11227779544145341291noreply@blogger.com0