"The First Surfers" is the very first chapter of Volume 1 of LEGENDARY SURFERS, in portable document format (PDF), originally published in 2003 and again in 2005.
Long available only by purchase, this chapter is now absolutely free to view, download and share by going to: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IzhDkSENHSrmNBc2HfrNdILj2Augkv2S
Aloha and Thank You for Your Interest in My Writings,
Malcolm Gault-Williams
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