Showing posts with label Aloha. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Aloha. Show all posts

Saturday, September 1, 2018

Aloha Washington, 1902

Hawaiian George Freeth became the first person to successfully introduce stand-up surfing on wooden surfboards to North America. He started at Venice Beach in Southern California, beginning in 1907, then moved on to Redondo Beach and eventually Ocean Beach, near San Diego.1 He was, however, not the first person to surf off the beaches of the U.S. Mainland.

In 1885, Hawaiian Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalaniana and Princes David and Edward Kawananakoa surfed for several summers at Santa Cruz, south of San Francisco, when not attending St. Matthews Military School in San Mateo.2 The sport, however, did not catch on there at that time.

There is the question about “The Sandwich Island Girl” surfing in New Jersey in 1888. It is still a mystery whether she did or not.3

Then, there were body boarders surfing prone at Wrightsville, North Carolina, in 1907 and possibly earlier.4

Indeed, Freeth himself may have put on some stand-up surfing demonstrations in New Jersey in 1905, but this has yet to be conclusively verified.5

What is little known is the story of the Emerson and Dole families surfing at Aloha, Washington, several years before George Freeth came to Venice.

Their story -- complete with numerous family photographs -- was written by Ralph Emerson’s great grandson, Gavin Kogan, and published in The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, in 2006. The article is free to subscribers and only $3.99 for non-subscribers. It is located here:


Another version, with less text but more photographs, was made into an on-line scrapbook at the Surfing Heritage and Culture Center (SHACC), thanks to the Kogan family. It is located here:


SHACC's Barry Haun briefly shows and describes one of the Aloha boards here:



In brief, the story goes like this:

In 1902, experienced lumberman and mill operator George Emerson began construction of a new sawmill south of the Quinault Indian reservation, which is just south of the vast Olympic National Park and National Forest, on the west coast of the state of Washington.6

George Emerson’s son Ralph was away in college at Leland Stanford University in Palo Alto at the time. While there, he met Wilfred Dole and two of his brothers, Norman and George, also Stanford students.7 The Doles were members of a Maine family that had become Protestant Christian Missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands beginning in 1840.8

Wilfred, Norman and George Dole were also related to Sanford Ballard Dole, who became a lawyer and jurist in the Hawaiian Islands first when it was a kingdom, then a protectorate, republic and lastly as a territory. He was a proponent of Westernization over Hawaiian politics and culture and more than any one person was responsible for the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. He subsequently served as President of the Republic of Hawaii until that government secured Hawaii’s annexation to the United States.9

When Ralph Emerson’s father began to construct the new sawmill, just west of the family beach house, Ralph was obligated to help with the mill during his summer vacations. He invited Wilfred, Norman and George Dole to join him. They did and enjoyed that first summer of 1902 so much, they came back afterwards.10

It “was during this time that the cedar surfboards were made at the direction of Wilfred’s older brothers who had a more intimate knowledge of surfboard making from their earlier years in Kauai. These boards were finless and were generally for prone riding,” wrote Ralph’s great grandson Gavin Kogan.11


Photo courtesy of the Kogan Family and SHACC


“Although only one board remains today,” continued Kogan, “it appears from the chronology of Dole brothers at the Aloha Lumber Company and existing photos that at least four boards were manufactured between 1902 and 1905.”12

The one surviving surfboard is Ralph’s. It is made of knot-less red cedar and measures 6-feet 8-inches long. The rails are beveled from the bottom to the deck. His initials, ‘R.D.E,’ are inscribed on the tail deck.13


Photo courtesy of the Kogan family and SHACC


In 1905, after Ralph had graduated from Stanford and toured Europe, “Wilfred left Stanford before graduating and joined Ralph to manage the new mill they had helped construct over the previous summers. Given the task of naming the enterprise, they chose to call the new mill the Aloha Lumber Company. With the railroad completed from Gray’s Harbor to Moclips, just west of the mill, the venture held great promise and up sprang the little town of Aloha, WA.”14

Ralph and Wilfred were successful with the Aloha Lumber Company, but also put in time as ”... avid outdoorsmen,” wrote Kogan. “Well preserved photos show the young men surfing, canoeing, fishing, horse riding and hunting... one can’t help but shudder at the scant protection light wool bathing suits must have offered against the chilly Olympic waters...”15

Kogan remembers his grandmother recalling that “we used to take out those old surfboards, us and the Dole kids, and ride them in the surf and Joe Creek. I think we must have rode those boards well into the 1920’s on a regular basis.”16


Photo courtesy of the Kogan family and SHACC



1  Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “George Freeth: Bronzed Mercury,” ©2013. An ebook chapter taken from LEGENDARY SURFERS: Volume 1., ©2005 and 2017.
2  The Daily Surf, July 20, 1885. First of several mentions of the princes in the local newspaper.
3  Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “The Sandwich Island Girl,” ©2017. A chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series.
4  Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “USA East Coast Begins,” a chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series.
5  Gault-Williams, Malcolm. “Freeth, Ford and London.” See original research by Geoff Cater at: “George Freeth.”
6  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington Scrapbook,” Surfing Heritage and Culture Center, courtesy of the Kogan Family; panel 4. - http://scrapbook.surfingheritage.org/Main.php?MagID=4&MagNo=18
7  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
10  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
11  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. As told to Gavin by his grandmother, wife of Ralph, Elizabeth Emerson Lambie. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
12  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
13  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
14  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington,” The Surfer’s Journal, Volume 15, Number 5, ©2006, p. 94. - https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/aloha-washington/
15  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington Scrapbook,” Surfing Heritage and Culture Center, courtesy of the Kogan Family; panel 7. - http://scrapbook.surfingheritage.org/Main.php?MagID=4&MagNo=18

16  Kogan, Gavin. “Aloha Washington Scrapbook,” Surfing Heritage and Culture Center, courtesy of the Kogan Family; panel 4. Elizabeth Emerson Lambie recalled by her grandson. - http://scrapbook.surfingheritage.org/Main.php?MagID=4&MagNo=18

Monday, August 20, 2018

Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968)


This LEGENDARY SURFERS chapter on “the Father of Modern Surfing,” Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, has been one of my most-popular over the course of the past 15 years. It contains all of Duke's life relative and specific to surfing, in addition to his other contributions -- especially as an Olympic swimmer. But, the focus is on the details of 
Duke's life as a surfer.




This biography of Duke was updated and expanded in 1999 and and then again in 2005. At one time, it was the most detailed account of Duke from a surfer's perspective. Although there are now several very good books on Duke, this ebook chapter remains the most inexpensive treatment of the subject of Duke as a surfer.

Word count: 31,007; total pages: 64 (1.46 MB), including images and 8 pages of footnotes.


To order for just $2.95, please click on a Pay Pal icon:




All order fulfillments are done manually, so please be patient in the case there may be a delay. Should you have any problems with your order, please comment at the bottom of this posting or reply to my email.

Aloha and Thank You for Your Interest in My Writings.
I hope you enjoy Duke's story, and help spread the true Aloha Spirit that Duke, himself, helped foster throughout the world.



Malcolm Gault-Williams






Contents of What You Will Receive:

  Descendant of the Ali`i
  Barefoot Freedom
  Under the Hau Tree
  Bigger Boards for Bigger Surf
  "Riding the Surfboard," Mid-Pacific magazine, February 1911
  Freestyle Records Broken, August 11, 1911
  The Kahanamoku Kick Overseas, 1912
  The 1912 Olympics, Stockholm, Sweden
  1st Surfing on the East Coast, 1912
  More Than A Beach Boy
  Hawai`i's Ambassador
  Duke Surfs Freshwater, December 24, 1914
  Duke As Catalyst To Australian Surfing
  World War I
  Duke & Dad's Half Mile Ride of 1917
  Olympic Gold and Silver, 1920
  Corona del Mar Save, June 14, 1925
  The Father of Modern Surfing
  Duke's 16-foot olo design
  Rabbit Kekai
  New Sheriff in Town
  Nadine (Nadjesda) Alexander Kahanamoku (1905-1997)
  World War II and After
  Physical & Financial Health, 1955-61
  Kimo McVay
  Twilight Years, 1962-68
  Duke Kahanamoku Surf Team
  The Passing, January 22, 1968
  Duke Swims Away





"Out of the water I am nothing" - Duke


"Duke attained his greatest surfing satisfactions and some of his greatest achievements as a rider after his 40th year." - Tom Blake


"Why not honor a living monument?" - Arthur Godfrey


"My boys and I, we showed 'em how to go surfing." - Duke, speaking about the Mainland Surfari of the Duke Surf Team


"Duke was Duke. His values came from the sea. He walked through a Western world, but he was always essentially Hawaiian. And because of the simplicity and purity of that value system, money was never that important to him." - Kenneth Brown


"Duke was not in the business of being a beachboy. But in the larger sense of the word - of a man who lived and loved the ocean lifestyle - Duke was, as far as I'm concerned, the ultimate beachboy." - Fred Hemmings


"He had an inner tranquillity. It was as if he knew something we didn't know. He had a tremendous amount of simple integrity. Unassailable in integrity. You rarely meet people who don't have some persona they assume to cope with things. But Duke was completely transparent. No phoniness. People could say to you that Duke was simple - the bugga must be dumb! No way. That's an easy way of explaining that. Duke was totally without guile. He knew a lot of things. He just knew 'em." - Kenneth Brown