The 1800's: Surfing's Darkest Days

The Nineteenth Century was a time when many Hawaiian recreational pastimes and customs – not just surfing – nearly faded into oblivion. Some, in fact, did. During the 1800s, an entire spectrum of ancient Hawaiian customs and aspects of traditional lifestyle declined dramatically or disappeared altogether due to the combined cultural, political and religious imperialism brought upon the Hawaiians by mostly well-meaning Europeans.

This non-military assault damaged the entire traditional Hawaiian social fabric to such a degree that even today restorations continue and success at full restoration takes time. “Sports, games, Kapa-making, ritual dancing, canoe-building – all were to disappear,” wrote Finney and Houston, “just as the Hawaiian’s smooth dark skin disappeared under gaudy gingham from the holds of early trading ships.”

What happened to the many hundreds if not thousands of olo, alaia, kiko‘o and paipo surfboards? What was it that caused the Hawaiians of the 1800s to cease the sport they alone had developed to such a high peak through so many generations?

"The 1800's: Surfing's Darkest Days" tells that story in detail. Please click on the image to download the chapter in PDF format:

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture

Traditional Hawaiian Surf Culture collects together in one small ebook all that we know about early surfing culture -- at least prior to and immediately following European contact in Hawaii, in the late 1770s. This chapter is the most concise, detailed information on the subject available anywhere.

Word count: 11,069; Total pages: 26 (888 kb)

Written in 1999 was converted to an ebook in 2004. This has been a popular chapter in the LEGENDARY SURFERS series and can be viewed, downloaded and shared by going to:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JAKDDuJcztT6oqsVrB41MqoZyxd16q6U/view?usp=sharing

Aloha and Thank You for Your Interest in My Writings,


Malcolm Gault-Williams

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CONTENTS:

• Papa He`e Nalu
• Surfing As A Way of Life
• Ancient Hawaiian Surf Spots
•      Hawaii
•      O`ahu
•      Maui
•      Kaua`i
•      Moloka`i
•      Ni`ihau
•      Lana`i
• Famous Ancient Hawaiian Breaks
•      Ka-a-lehua-wehe
•      Ke-Kai-O-Mamala
•      Paumalu
•      Kona Coast
• Maka`ai-nana and Ali`i
• Kapu
• Competition and Gambling
• Holua Racing
• Makahiki
• Heiau
• Wahine Riders
• Early Hawaiian Surf Speak
• Some Sources