I have been writing about the history of surfing for a little over 30 years. Although I self-publish mostly, my works have also appeared in THE SURFER’S JOURNAL, LONGBOARD and SURFING, as well as other surf and non-surf publications.
I'm writing less these days, but still stay active with the subjects that sparked my writings. Nowadays, I mostly can be found at our surfing group online at: https://web.facebook.com/share/v2KCMPq4wkwx1BB3/
I basically write chronologically, writing around the quotations of the people who lived the story I'm telling. My works are always extensively footnoted for readers interested in the details and also for future historians. I not only draw from interviews and research I have done, but also from those of other surf writers and historians who are kind enough to share.
When I began, there were very few of us “surf writers.” Now there are many and even surf museums scattered across the globe. As a result, new discoveries in surfing’s history are being made all the time and our knowledge and sense of place – as surfers in an historical perspective – continues to grow and deepen.
Thank you for reading my writings on surfing’s history, culture and legendary surfers.
~ Aloha!
Malcolm Gault-Williams
